blksm-forges-msg - 6/29/07
Blacksmithing forges. Sources.
Note: See also the files: bellows-msg, blacksmithing-msg, blksm-anvils-msg, blksm-welding-msg, bladesmithing-msg, Blacksmithing-bib, charcoal-msg.
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From: rhiannon at cybercomm.net (Pam Herbert)
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: Forge Question
Date: Thu, 05 Sep 96 03:43:42 GMT
>Here's a question from a friend of mine without 'Net access. He vaguely
>remembers hearing something about plans to build a forge out of a brake
>drum from a transport truck. Does anyone know such a forge was ever
>built?
>
>This would have most likely taken place within An Tir.
>
>Thanks for any information you can offer...
>
>Ly. Anastasia de Vaucouleurs
>Barony of Montengarde, Principality of Avacal
>Kingdom of An Tir
There is a Readers Digest book called Back to Basics that has a section on
blacksmithing, it includes plans and illustrations for building a forge from
a brake drum. It also shows a good number of the tools used in smithcraft,
and simple projects to help you get started. You can probably find it at a
local bookstore in the craft and hobby section. Hope this helps!
Yours in service,
Lady Bridget O'Donnell
Barony of Carillon EK
From: david.razler at postoffice.worldnet.att.net (David M. Razler)
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: Forge Question
Date: Sat, 07 Sep 1996 04:34:40 GMT
Hugh Prescott <hugh345 at bcl.net> wrote:
>I think you may need to check "Best of the Hammer" edited by Brian D.
>Flax, Volume 1 possibly.
>
>I do remember reading an article on using a drum brake and wheel rim to
>build a forge.
>
>Can not find my Vol. 1 of the Best of the Hammer, some one is going to
>pay!! for not returning it to it's proper place.
>
>Hugh Prescott
Best Of... is currently out of print. But the best basic forge info I've seen
can be found in Jim Hrisoulas's The Complete Bladesmith <Paladin Press ISBN
0-87364-430-1> (coal and basic gas) and his The Master Bladesmith <Paladin,
ISBN 0-87364-612-6 (advanced gas forges and how to use refractory and ceramics
for building them)
The books, of course, also contain information on every facet of forging steel
with the major emphasis on custom knifework. The only petty fault I've found
with either is Jim's use of the word "Damascus" to describe pattern-welded
blades, something I think he addresses in his third book entitled, if memory
serves me right, "The Patern-Welded Blade."
The two cost more than the Best Of... books (which also grace my shelves) but
are considerably better buys if your goal is forgery rather than general
SCA-related metalworking.
David M. Razler
david.razler at worldnet.att.net
From: glyford at us1.channel1.com (Glenn S. Lyford)
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: Forge Question
Date: 7 Sep 1996 12:35:57 GMT
43706 at UCDASVM1.ADMIN.UCALGARY.CA says...
>Here's a question from a friend of mine without 'Net access. He vaguely
>remembers hearing something about plans to build a forge out of a brake
>drum from a transport truck. Does anyone know such a forge was ever
>built?
Very common. May even be in an old issue of Popular Mechanics somewhere
if your library keeps 'em...
Basically, use large iron pipe fittings for the air channels underneath.
Something like:
.---- Grate. Old floor drain, or drill a piece
. |/ . of metal (heavier than sheet
| ____ | <--- Drum metal -- they burn out) wired
----. .---- or bolted in place.
| |
| | <---Pipe
| -------
Tee ---> | <-- Attach fan here. Directly, or with
| ------- metal dryer vent tubing, etc.
| | ^
| | <--'--Pipe
----
^
'--- Threaded cap, for removing ash. More
advanced is to make a hinged counterweighted
cap, but then, running a forge is a process
of constant little improvements anyway...
Stand varies. Weld up angle iron legs, or rest on a stack of
firebrick... Hope that helps.
--Glenn
From: Corbie <corbie at radix.net>
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: Forge Question
Date: Wed, 04 Sep 1996 13:53:50 +0100
Organization: National Public Radio
R. Fodchuk wrote:
> Here's a question from a friend of mine without 'Net access. He vaguely
> remembers hearing something about plans to build a forge out of a brake
> drum from a transport truck. Does anyone know such a forge was ever built?
> This would have most likely taken place within An Tir.
> Thanks for any information you can offer...
> Ly. Anastasia de Vaucouleurs
I've seen directions for such in a back-issue of a magazine called 'Countryside', which is not to be confused with
the large magazine of the same name. I think the subtitle of the magazine is 'Small Livestock and Farm Journal.'
You might try asking around on alt.sustainable.agriculture -- someone there is sure to have the address for
'Countryside.'
I've also seen these used... you might call O'Hurley's General Store in Shepherdstown, WV and ask for Dan Tochar, the
blacksmith who has a shop in the back (he's definitely a master-craftsman) and ask where you can find the plans.
Mara/Corbie
From: Aoife <liontamr at postoffice.ptd.net>
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: Forge Question
Date: 4 Sep 1996 22:39:12 GMT
To build a small forge get a large truck wheel and place a blower(an old
vacuum cleaner set in the reverse so the air is blowing out instead of
sucking in)and voila you now have a very cheap small forge. May I also
suggest you purchase a copy of The Hammer from Raymond's quiet press.
Finally, you could try the Buckskinning books(I think it's vol.3 fron
Tandy's leather store) that dicusses Blacksmithing.Or go to your pubic
library and look up Forges,Blacksmithing,etc.
Yours in service to the society,
Brion
From: dwbutler at mtu.edu (Daniel W. Butler-Ehle)
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: Anvils and smiths
Date: 16 Dec 1996 20:47:44 -0500
Organization: Michigan Technological University
Joe Stubenrauch (yeti at linex.com) wrote:
: 4) Would a pair of bellows and the old barbaque work as a smith?
Possibly. For a little while. Depends on what you're doing.
Some can survive the heat, some can't. Go for it. Maybe upgrade
sometime to a hand-cranked or motorized forge fan. Then when you're
ready to buy (or build) a proper firepot, you'll already have the blower.
: Any information and tips on getting started will be appreciated,
: seeing as I have little knowledge on the subject (other than watching the
: smiths at Williamsburg for hours on end).
I made some of my armouring tools years ago with just a handheld propane
torch. Believe it or not, a propane torch can get a railroad spike up
passed bright cherry red.
Ulfin
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
From: tip* at ai.chem.ohiou.edu (Tom Perigrin)
Subject: Re: Anvils and smiths
Organization: Ohio University
Date: Tue, 17 Dec 1996 02:19:49 GMT
yeti at linex.com (Joe Stubenrauch) wrote:
> I have a keen and developing interest in blacksmithing. However, the
> local area I am in is devoid of SCA black-smith's (and indeed, smith's at
> all). So, I am whisking off to the library to do some more research.
<snip>
> 4) Would a pair of bellows and the old barbaque work as a smith?
Yes, No... the BBQ will melt right through. But you can make a great
forge using a 24 to 30" square by 6" deep tin box and fire bricks.
Regular ones for the outer edges, and kaolin bricks for the center. I
guess you could use the BBQ as your box, but fitting all those nice
rectangular bricks into that round thing is a pain.
Tom
From: rhayes at powerup.com.au (Robin Hayes)
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: Anvils and smiths
Date: 17 Dec 1996 03:40:30 GMT
In article <E2J4r9.7rB at linex6.linex.com>, of Mon, 16 Dec 1996 23:18:45
GMT, Joe Stubenrauch of yeti at linex.com says...
> I have a keen and developing interest in blacksmithing. However, the
>local area I am in is devoid of SCA black-smith's (and indeed, smith's at
>all). So, I am whisking off to the library to do some more research.
> 4) Would a pair of bellows and the old barbaque work as a smith?
Possibly, depending on the construction. The area should not be out in
bright light, for the colour of the metal tells you what temperature it
be, and lets you know when to hit and when to stop. Colour is essential
for tempering too. Think of where the smoke is going to go...
Some books show how to make the forge from junk such as old car tyre rims,
tins, etc. I have seen advertised in magazines books of plans on making
stuff from junk, forges, etc.
You should also read up on firemaking, and fuels. Charcoal is the oldest
period fuel, but modern smithing uses coal dust - roughly pea size -(low
sulphur coal) which is mixed with water to create "breeze" in the heat of
the fire - which is coke.
Charcoal is wonderful for welding, but less easy to use for other
purposes. Breeze is best for all round work.
You can use dried hardwood (chips) too, you need to charcoal the stuff as
you go, and it is easier to make the charcoal first. Lighting the fire is
a skill better shown than talked about, but if you experiement carefully,
you will find a method that works for you.
Slow small fires are the best to work with. Hitting more air for the
purpose will turn things white hot in seconds.
The manual bellows is a sound practice, beter than a mechanical blower,
for when you stop blowing, the heat drops instantly, also saving duel.
You need a controlled path for the air, which is called a tyure. Read up
on it. You should not have more air than you need, for you just waste
fuel, and cool the fire.
You can make a "hole" in the fuel, or you can "tent over" and make a more
covered in space. Both have their uses, experiment slowly and carefully.
the tent is better for welding. The depth in the fire affects whether you
are in the oxidising or reducing zone. Read, read, read.
Robin
From: powers at cis.ohio-state.edu (william thomas powers)
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: What role of craftpeople?
Date: 18 Oct 1995 22:34:34 -0400
Organization: The Ohio State University, Department of Computer and Information Science
>Would you need to set up a forge? Can the Site or Society insurance
>handle the risk tha tmight involve?
Milady Iseault; my thanks for bringing this up!
As some one who generally travels with a forge to events; I would like
to point out that having a forge at an event is usually much less a risk
than having candles in the feasthall! When I set up a forge it is
with permission of the autocrat and the site owner. There is a well defined
area around it that is "by invitation only". I bring 2 moderately sized
ABC extinguishers besides the slack tub and I and any other folk I teach
or share the forge with will be dressed in non-synthetic materials or
wearing a large leather bib apron.
Few feasts I have attended where someone has not knocked over the
candles on their table or has tried to reach over them in long
dangling sleaves of a most combustable nature. I can only think
it do to the intervention of a most beneficient diety that we have not
suffered more due to folk flambe at our activities
>I know this sounds terribly mundain but these are questions
>that have to be asked?
>and potential auotcrates need to be on the look out for sites that
>would alow you to pratice your craft the way you intend.
!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I like this point!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
At non-forge events I may bring some woodworking, or horn work or hand
file a knife blade or work down the filed sides with a stone or....
try an aspect of your craft that is non-powered and you would be bored
to death doing it at home alone!
>Lady Iseault Blaecstan, Clan Kilkenny
wilelm the smith---Have Forge, Will Travel
NOTE: if burning coal; place forge DOWNWIND of the list field....
From: jhrisoulas at aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re/Propane/coal forges
Date: 18 Dec 1996 21:30:21 GMT
tip* at ai.chem.ohiou.edu (Tom Perigrin) writes:
>By the way, someone mentioned the use of propane torches and firebrick. I
>have used both propane and coal/coke forges. I find the propane to be
>adequate for rebending horseshoes, but inadequate for tool making,
>hingemaking, and other work where I have to move a lot of metal, rather
>than just bend it a bit. Also, I never managed a succesful forge weld
>using a propane forge.
>
>Tom
Tom:
What problems are you having? And what altitude are you operating at???
the reason being that ALL my welding is done in a LPG forge...Granted I
probably do more welding in a week than most other smiths do in a year but
you can get good, clean, solid welds using LPG..
The size of faggots I am welding vary from 1" square to 2" square up to
24" long...
Are you getting any success at all or just a total non-weld? What are you
using for flux? I use my own mix of anhydrous borax, sal amoniac and iron
oxide...I have yet to have any bad welds at all since I started to use
this in a gas fire..
What are you trying to weld to what??? I know that these are a lot of
questions but you should be able to weld everything but a broken heart or
the crack of dawn in a gas forge..as long as it is of proper design and
below 3700 feet..above that you need a diferent recuperative burner set
up....but it still can be done...
This sounds like you are either using the wrong burner or the wrong forge
design or both. I can get my faggots up to welding heat in oh, under
three minutes and since I have my burners carburated at 2400 F there is no
worry about burning all those paper thin layers when I am welding (I
commonly weld billets of pattern welded materials using 0.003 to 0.005"
materials, both high carbon and stainless...cuts down on alot of forge
time when your fist weld is some 400 layers)
I am posting this in hopes that anyone else who has the same problems will
be able to gleen something out of this..
Atar, Baron Bakhtar, OL
aka
Dr JP Hrisoulas
Bladesmith, Metallographer, Lecturer, Author:
"The Complete Bladesmith"
"The Master Bladesmith"
"The Pattern Welded Blade"
From: Mike Faul <mfaul at netscape.com>
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: Anvils and smiths
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 1996 11:03:41 -0800
Tom Perigrin wrote:
> By the way, someone mentioned the use of propane torches and firebrick. I
> have used both propane and coal/coke forges. I find the propane to be
> adequate for rebending horseshoes, but inadequate for tool making,
> hingemaking, and other work where I have to move a lot of metal, rather
> than just bend it a bit. Also, I never managed a succesful forge weld
> using a propane forge.
I use propane exclusivley and I forge weld all the time, in fact every blade Imake has about 15 folds and welds. No problem. Remember that even in a venturi forge propane burns ar 2350 deg. Quite adequate for welding. Your atmosphere was probably wrong.
Mike
From: "James D. Logan/Jane Sitton-Logan" <hammer at mail.startext.net>
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: Anvils and smiths
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 1996 08:03:24 -0800
Robin Hayes wrote:
> Joe Stubenrauch of yeti at linex.com says...
> > 4) Would a pair of bellows and the old barbaque work as a smith?
>
> Possibly, depending on the construction. The area should not be out in
> bright light, for the colour of the metal tells you what temperature it
> be, and lets you know when to hit and when to stop. Colour is essential
> for tempering too. Think of where the smoke is going to go...
>
<snip>
>
> You need a controlled path for the air, which is called a tyure. Read up
> on it. You should not have more air than you need, for you just waste
> fuel, and cool the fire.
Controlling the air path is the essential element of fire handling, I build
a deep fire putting a considerable amount of coal or coke between the air
source and the work, this produces a heat rich in carbon and carbon dioxide.
This is the same method used to prevent excessive scaling in modern atmosphere
furnaces used in modern heat treating. This type of fire is called a reducing
flame.
Laird Seamus Donnacadh Loganaich an gabhain
Or Logan the smith for those with nae Gaedhlig.
From: morganh at teleport.com (Morgan Hall)
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: Anvils and smiths
Date: 24 Dec 1996 16:23:05 GMT
Organization: Teleport - Portland's Public Access (503) 220-1016
Just to add my $0.02 on this thread:
Forge -- I made mine out of wood. 4 railroad ties set in the ground,
2 more lengthwise, 4x4s crosswise, and 2" planks for the basic
framework. The fire pot is just a wooden box set down in the table. Of
course, there's about a 4" layer of clay or clay and brick over it.
After about 12 hours the clay (through gaps in the planking) is warm to
the touch. If I had heats for more than 12 hrs, 2 days running, I'd use
a different construction. I don't, so this is fine for me. If you use
a pressed steel BBQ or something like that, line it with mud. If you're
worried about cracks, mix straw in the mud. If you're going to use
charcoal, send the air in from the side. If you're going to use coal,
send the air from the bottom. If you like doing things on the cheap,
you can build the whole thing from mud & straw. If you'd like a better
lining with the mud&straw thing, mix 2/3 sand and 1/3 mud and plaster it
in for a lining. when it gets firm to the touch but still damp, build a
nice fire and heat up until the lining glows red. If you don't mind
bending over, just dig a pit and bury a pipe to put air to it. A forge
shouldn't be a problem.
Bellows -- I use a shop-vac with a motor speed controller. Junked hair
dryers work, too. Have a friend who uses a light dimmer, but it's not
as controllable as the motor speed controller. Have used an electric
blower on full-speed where the output was blown from one pipe to
another. To reduce air, slid one pipe to the side so not as much air
went in to the fire. Have a couple of hand-crank blowers around, also.
These things tend to come to you after you get going. Have plans to
make a set of double-acting bellows, but lack time to get it done.
Basic advice: Improvise. Use your imagination and ingenuity. If
you're going to do much smithing, you'll be needing every bit of
ingenuity you can come up with. You'll need to be able to figure out
what tools you need, then make them -- perhaps making the tools to make
them. Keep alert, try to learn from mistakes (no, you can't make a
frammis that way, but it'd be a way to make a doohickey) and ask
questions. Don't look for canned answers. If you ask me to teach you
soemthing, I will. Remember, it's my way of doing something. Yours
will probably be different and better for you. Learn my way, Joe's way,
Sam's way and evolve your own way. When Nick shows you his way, you may
change your way.
Good luck, and godspeed.
Morgan de Comyn (Morgan Hall)
Piper and Blacksmith to Clan Hubert
morganh at teleport.com
From: jhrisoulas at aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: Re/Propane/coal forges
Date: 23 Dec 1996 02:14:19 GMT
In all seriousness here there is no reason at all that you should not be
able to weld in a LPG/Propane fired forge as long as you have the correct
carburation for your altitude. Natural gas can even be used as can diesel
fuel...IF you have the correct burner and carburation.
I have been using LPG exclusively for the last 12 years and I have found
that it has cut my welding time down by 70% over coal and it is much, much
cleaner and gives a better weld, especially in the stainless/high Ni and
high Cr alloys...
If anyone has any questions please feel free to e-mail direct..
Your Servant,
Atar Bakhtar, OL
From: jhrisoulas at aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: Anvils and smiths
Date: 24 Dec 1996 16:03:30 GMT
Hmm .. is there truth there ? Is forging metal significantly
different at high altitudes, compared to low ? Dry air
as opposed to wet ? Just curious ...
Yes, there is a remarkable difference between altitudes. The higher you
get the less Oxygen there is and hence the cooler the fire burns...then
you need a recuperative burner that preheats the incoming air to
compensate for the lower temperatures,,,,
I could get into BTU's and Thermal Conductivity and all that but you would
only get lost unless you are very familiar with this sort of thing....
In a nutshell, a gas forge that is regulated and carburated for burning at
say 2350 F at sea level will need to be recarburated at 5000 feet above
sea level in order to get the same temperature....
Atar Bakhtar, OL
aka
JP Hrisoulas
From: mhpope1745 at aol.com (MHPope1745)
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: Blacksmithing
Date: 17 Apr 1998 02:15:27 GMT
Chris, Hope this helps, the clinker breaker is a triangular shaped piece of
steel that rests in close proximity to the bottom of the fire grate, this
device can be rotated by means of a handle projecting thru the side of the fire
pot. when a large amount of klinker has built up enogh to restrict airflow the
handle id rotated causing the klinker to shatter and fall into the as
dump.However some fire pots are made so that the klinker breaker also serves as
the airflow passage, as they are drilled or more likely cast with air passages
in them.Some of the klinker will form on the top of the fire grate and some
will form below due to the heavier materials in the klinker, my forge which is
based on a spouthern pacific railroad fire pot has both, as well as a dump for
the ash,
if you are in need of resources there are two excellent books on this subject,
One is "the Country BLacksmith By Charles McRaven, and the other is Basic
Blacksmithing by Alex W Bealer
Michael Hugh Stuarts.
Michael H Pope
Heavy Horse Forge.
From: "Lady O'Ceo (Lady of the Myst)" <ilona at peak.org>
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: Blacksmithing
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1998 19:30:53 -0700
Chris K. Hepburn wrote:
> This past week I acquired a forge and some tools at a farm auction. The
> forge is one of those old basin types with an attached crank blower (which
> has cracked off - that's okay, I am a welder).
Greetings! Sounds like you got hold of an old rivet hearth from the days
when building iron was hot-rivetted together.
> My question for anyone on the list is, at the auction one of the older
> fellows mentioned something about the forge needing a "frog". Another man
> called it a "clinker breaker" (I think). Can anyone adequately describe
> this piece to me? Is it possible to fabricate and install a new one? I
> work in a welding shop and have access to all kinds of metal and tools.
In THIS smith's opinion a clinker breaker is a useless gimcrack that
probably never worked right even when new. In 20 years of smithing all
I've ever needed was my poker. If you really want your forge to be like
the original, making a new one should not be hard to figure out. For
more details on your particular forge, try alt.crafts.blacksmithing
newsgroup. Say the brand and model if known, someone can probably help
you out.
> Also, in the box of tools I found a pair of pliers with two sets of jaws
> and three handles. Anyone have any ideas what the heck this thing would
> have been used for? I don't think it's a period tool but it sure is
> intriguing.
I'd need a bit more description than that. What shape jaws, etc.?
> I'd appreciate any and all comments/opinions on this matter. Please keep
> the subject line "blacksmithing" because I tend to whip through this list
> pretty quickly and I don't want to miss any information.
>
>If you like, try me off the NG. Alex at ilona at peak.org
Slainte!
D. Alexander M. MacD. Kilgour
Master Blacksmith/Artyfactor Second of The Shrewsbury Renaissance Faire
From: "Daniel Hill" <danhill at sprint.ca>
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: Blacksmithing
Date: 18 Apr 1998 05:56:03 GMT
Chris K. Hepburn <chepburn at calcna.ab.ca> wrote:
> This past week I acquired a forge and some tools at a farm auction. The
> forge is one of those old basin types with an attached crank blower (which
> has cracked off - that's okay, I am a welder).
>
> My question for anyone on the list is, at the auction one of the older
> fellows mentioned something about the forge needing a "frog". Another man
> called it a "clinker breaker" (I think). Can anyone adequately describe
> this piece to me? Is it possible to fabricate and install a new one? I
> work in a welding shop and have access to all kinds of metal and tools.
Well if you look into your basin you should see a hole in the center. This
hole needs something to stop the coal from falling through. I agree with
Lady O'Ceo that a clinker breaker is next to useless. A clinker breaker is
a three sided piece of metal that would be placed in the hole and attached
to a rod so that it may be rocked to allow some of the fine coal/slag out.
Not always a desired option. Far better to get a piece of flat plate to
cover the hole. In this plate drill holes to allow the air into the forge.
I am assuming the set up of the blower is standard where it forces air up
through this hole to fan the fire. Below this hole should be a length of
pipe vertical to the ground. I am not sure on how much of the forge is
missing here. From this pipe at 90 degrees is the inlet of the blower hose.
At the bottom is a cap whether it slides on with a hinge or screws on. This
cap stops air from going out that way and also stops ash and slag, etc from
falling to the ground. You should empty this pipe daily, which is why I
prefer a sliding lid. A clinker is a build up of gunk in the bottom of the
forge and sometimes has to be removed as often as once an hour depending on
how you maintain your fire. This is easily done with a poker and a shovel.
Slide the poker along the bottom and once under the center of the fire,
slowly lift it up. You may see a large mass all stuck together. That is the
clinker and it will lower the temperature of the forge if it is left in.
Good luck and happy forging!
--
With your leave to sign myself,
Daniel
MY HOME PAGE = http://www.bestware.net/wendysweb/home/dan/homepage.htm
14th CENTURY PAGE = http://www.bestware.net/wendysweb/research/14cent.htm
From: james koch <alchem at en.com>
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: Blacksmithing
Date: Sat, 18 Apr 1998 22:39:15 -0400
Organization: alchem inc
> Ah, you lucky <lord>. I have found myself a blower. What I've been
> trying to find is the forge and anvil.
Here in Cleveland there were scrap yards back in the 70s which always
had several anvils on hand. When I started blacksmithing these sold for
$25 each! Now a good anvil is a bit harder to find and a great deal
more expensive.
Fortunately a forge can be easily made. I have constructed several.
The last from an old incinerator. I simply raised the fire box from the
bottom to the top and lined it with castable refractory to form the
duck's nest. This is a concrete like substance which is available from
refractory brick suppliers. You can't use regular concrete in a forge
since it will shatter due to the heat. I used iron pipe for the
airways. A regular building brick (the kind with the holes) will
suffice at the bottom of the duck's nest to support the coals.
Most old blowers will work. If you use a vacuum cleaner though don't
let just any SCA idiot hook it up. I had a guy helping me once. You
know the type, lots of enthusiasm, no common sense. He hooked up the
vacuum so that it sucked rather than blew. I was looking at the fire
and it was most strange. It was glowing bright yellow, but there was no
smoke. Then I glanced at the vacuum cleaner and it was smoking like a
locomotive and its hose was melting! Hot damn!
Jim Koch (Gladius The Alchemist)
From: rmhowe <MMagnusM at bellsouth.net>
Date: May 22, 2004 2:23:19 PM CDT
To: - Authenticity List <authenticity at yahoogroups.com>, - BARONY of WINDMASTERS' HILL <keep at windmastershill.org>, - Dunstan <Dunstan at yahoogroups.com>, - Manx <TheManx at yahoogroups.com>, "- Metalcasting at yahoogroups.com" <Metalcasting at yahoogroups.com>, - Regia Anglorum - North America <list-regia-na at lig.net>, - SCA Arts and Sciences 7/03 <Artssciences at lists.gallowglass.org>
Subject: Forging Arrowheads and Knifes / Making a Forge
Happened on this today:
http://64.176.180.203/arrowhead.htm
Arrowhead making tutorial, and an interesting way to make a
cheap forge. I have rather extensive books on historical
archery and have never seen the top type of arrowhead
but the bodkin and the tutorial are quite good.
Also a knife making tutorial:
http://64.176.180.203/tutorials.htm
Has a Chinese/Japanese style forge
also seen on these pages:
http://www.twinoaksforge.com/BLADSMITHING/dragonson.htm
Charcoal making:
http://www.twinoaksforge.com/BLADSMITHING/MAKING%20CHARCOAL.htm
Some quiver pictures:
http://forums.swordforum.com/showthread.php?s=26160cbe433241bd329b34486143ac68&;threadid=34486
Magnus
Date: Fri, 15 Oct 2004 23:45:41 -0400
From: "marilyn traber 011221" <phlip at 99main.com>
Subject: [Sca-cooks] Charcoal forge suggestion ;-)
To: Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org>
>> Cadoc
>> (who misses being able to do smith work since he now lives in the city)
> Well, I've been considering setting up something for an occasional
> forge. I was recently told that one of the advantages of using
> charcoal rather than coal was that it smokes and smells like a BBQ
> pit. "No officer, everything is fine. All that smoke is just from my
> charcoal grill".
>
> Stefan
Well, since you brought it up, Stefan ;-)
One of the easiest ways to set up a forge in your back yard, without
irritating the neighbors TOO much, is to set up a charcoal forge in an
old barbecue grill.
Start with an old grill, take out all the grill parts, if it's gas, set a
brake drum down in it (you may have to reinforce the bottom, if it's flimsy),
set up a flange, a pipe down, a T-fitting, and another down pipe and a pipe
out of the 90 degree angle, use an old vacuum cleaner motor or a blow dryer
for the air input (you'll likely hafta set up gate to reduce the air flow
if you use any sort of power blower) and a cast iron shower grate (easily
acquired at Home Despot for about $7). Keep an empty coffee can under the
down pipe to catch the ashes, and always use hardwood charcoal rather than
those worthless briquets, and you're in business. A tree stump for an anvil
stump and its associated anvil (cheaply acquired, if you use a piece of RR
track) can be quickly covered with a small tarp of a blanket, your tools can
go inside the grill once it's cool and closed. As far as your hand tools, you
can start out with a pair of vice grips or channel locks until you make
yourself some tongs, and a ball pein hammer (1 1/2- 2 lbs) will work until
you can figure out exactly what you want for a hammer When you're working,
you have the basics of what you need, when you aren't, everything is pretty
well out of sight.
OFC- a charcoal forge like this can easily be used for cooking food as well
as steel, as long as you don't contaminate it with brass. toss a small grill
over the firepot, throw a steak on the grill, and DON'T fire up the blower,
and you're in business. As you may know, I usually have my coffee pot
mumbling away on the side of my forge, and at events I cook my meals on it,
using my wok and/or pots and/or various bits of scrap bar stock to hold the
food where I want it.
Saint Phlip,
CoD
Date: Sun, 17 Oct 2004 21:35:13 -0400
From: "marilyn traber 011221" <phlip at 99main.com>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Charcoal forge suggestion ;-)
To: Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org>
> I remember trying to use a clay flower pot saucer to hold charcoal
> for a period pewter casting demo at an event but the heat cracked
> it. And I only used a few chunks of hardwood charcoal. I think part
> of my problem was not using enough since I wasn't getting enough
> heat. I thought I needed a bellows then, but I think just more
> charcoal. And that might have reduced problems with expansion and
> the clay saucer breaking, but I think I'll go with a different
> container next time, anyway.
>
> Stefan
Stefan,
Of COURSE it cracked- a flower pot just isn't up to the temperatures you
generate when you're operating a forge. And the brake drum is not "just to
fill up space", it's there not only to handle the temperatures that a forge
can generate, it's to shape and direct the fire, so that it's controlled. I
suspect that if you proceed with your cat litter intentions as you stand, it
will work for a few uses, and then the entire thing will burn up, because the
litter will crack, catching the shell of the barbecue on fire, or maybe
melting it, if you're lucky- cat litter just isn't designed to deal with
those temperatures. Myself, I'm lusting after some castable refractory I've
found that's good up to 3000 degrees Fahrenheit, for the forges I want
to build.
Fire brick will work, too, although for higher temperatures, you want the
light weight stuff, that feels like a bit of foam, almost, when you lift it,
rather than the heavier fire brick that feels sinilar to building brick-
again, the lighter bricks are resistant to higher temperatures.
The thing you need to keep in mind that if you'll be using charcoal for your
fire, you want a fire that's deeper than you'd have for a coal fire. Part of
what you're doing is focussing the fire with the blower and the shape of the
fire pot, rather like what you're doing with a glass lens when you focus the
sun's rays to catch a bit of paper or wood on fire- you can get forging
temperatures by burning your house down too, but that much fire is a bit
difficult to get close enough to use, never mind being a bit
inconvenient,
when you try to go to bed that night ;-)
Phlip
Date: Mon, 18 Oct 2004 00:12:32 -0400
From: Bill Fisher <liamfisher at gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Charcoal forge suggestion ;-)
To: Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org>
I made a forge at my Dad's, when he had his shop. out of clay I found on
premises and an old duck egg tuerere(sp) and some angle iron I
welded together.
I built a wood fire and shoveled the coals into the forge (which I think I had
lined with wet large leaves to keep the coals from biting the walls) to harden
the surface, and let that go for a few hours, then let it cool.Then I built a soft coal fire, and used the bellows towards the end, then let it cool,
then a coal/coke fire and let it cool. At least that is what I remembered doing, it was over 10 years a go that I did it (I think 14 maybe).
My Dad disassembled it when he closed the shop, he had used it regularly
over the years as a barbque when he lived in the attached apartment. He would
turn on the blower for that "steakhouse salamander" effect. He said the clay
was fired through completely and had to use a sledge to get the tuere
> The thing you need to keep in mind that if you'll be using charcoal for your
> fire, you want a fire that's deeper than you'd have for a coal fire. Part of
> what you're doing is focussing the fire with the blower and the shape of the
> fire pot, rather like what you're doing with a glass lens when you focus the
> sun's rays to catch a bit of paper or wood on fire- you can get forging
> temperatures by burning your house down too, but that much fire is a bit
> difficult to get close enough to use, never mind being a bit
> inconvenient, when you try to go to bed that night ;-)
For charcoal, wouldn't he need a more conical shape? That would give
him a deep, smaller, and concentrated fire. It depends really on the
size of his project.
I think you could arrange firebricks that way (with some cutting), or
clay.
Cadoc
<the end>