weapons-msg - 2/24/92 Period weapons other than the sword. NOTE: See also the files: slings-msg, swords-msg, pottery-wepns-msg, axes-msg, quarterstaff-msg, knife-throwing-msg, firearms-msg, crossbows-msg. ************************************************************************ NOTICE - This file is a collection of various messages having a common theme that I have collected from my reading of the various computer networks. Some messages date back to 1989, some may be as recent as yesterday. This file is part of a collection of files called Stefan's Florilegium. These files are available on the Internet at: http://www.florilegium.org I have done a limited amount of editing. Messages having to do with seperate topics were sometimes split into different files and sometimes extraneous information was removed. For instance, the message IDs were removed to save space and remove clutter. The comments made in these messages are not necessarily my viewpoints. I make no claims as to the accuracy of the information given by the individual authors. Please respect the time and efforts of those who have written these messages. The copyright status of these messages is unclear at this time. If information is published from these messages, please give credit to the orignator(s). Thank you, Mark S. Harris AKA: Lord Stefan li Rous mark.s.harris@motorola.com stefan@florilegium.org ************************************************************************ Lothar The Wanderer -Unknown- Spears and shafts 20 Feb 92 A common material for the shafts is ash. The same material used for baseball bats. Many lumber yards will carry this, but it may require a lathe to turn it down. As far as preparing the wood, I would suggest soaking it in a tung oil or something similar and letting the wood soften a bit (thus increasing flexability and lifespan). Once this is done, dry the outside of the shaft and finish with an artificial varnish to take on the hues you want. Ash is a clear, white wood and takes to staining fairly well, but only if the oil has been dried from the surface. I would like to note that I am not familiar with the spear, but am adapting what I know of the bo/quarter staff to cover this... Spears and shafts 24 Feb 92 From: whheydt@pbhya.PacBell.COM (Wilson Heydt) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Organization: Pacific * Bell, San Ramon, CA Lothar The Wanderer writes: >A common material for the shafts is ash. The same material used for >baseball bats. Many lumber yards will carry this, but it may require >a lathe to turn it down. That's going to be *some* lathe . . . (Not only will it be hard to find one long enough, but turning a long, thin, *springy* object is going to be really tough!) I would suggest that a spokeshave for the cautious or a drawknife for the brave would be more appropriate tools. They're also a whole bunch cheaper than buying a lathe. --Hal Hal Ravn, Province of the Mists, West Kingdom Wilson H. Heydt, Jr., Albany, CA 94706, 510/524-8321 (home) Spears and shafts 24 Feb 92 From: tip@lead.aichem.arizona.edu (Tom Perigrin) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Organization: University of Arizona UNIX Users Group Unto Lothar the Wanderer, doth Thomas Ignatius Perigrinus send his humble greetings, My Lord, thou speaks most truely when thou doest say that ash is a goodly wood for to use in hafting a spear. An it would'st please thee, may I add a few points to thy message? First, thou dids't mention a lathe as to the rounding of the shaft. May I suggest that this may not be the method of choice for several reasons: Imprimus; turning a shaft of 2 fingers thickness but more than 6 cubits length woulds't be most difficult. The wood would tend to flex most severly, and would retreat from the tool, leading to an action that turners do call "whip". I'faith, were the shaft long enough, I would fear me that the shaft would whip itself free of the centers, and strike thee a sharp blow as it did fly from the layth. Secundus; Even my largest lathe be but 5 cubits in length, and longer are most difficult to find. Thus, an it doth please My Lord, may I suggest the following in it's stead? First, hie thee to a goodly wood cutters, and beg to examine all their stock. Find thee a board of goodly thickness, such as 8 quarters or 10 quarters. Cant it up upon the ground, and site thee the length, and proove that there be no cup, nor wind, nor other deviations from good straightness. Then, lay down the board, and look thee at the grain.... Assure thyself that the grain be good and straight, with little or no wave or cant. Then buy thee this board, and take it to one who has a goodly rip saw (a bandsaw shall function most excellently) Now cut thee a strip but 1/4 inch in thickness from the edge, running the full length of thy board. Take up this strip, and grabbing it firmly between thy hands about 1 cubit apart, see an thou mayst bend it unto the half part of a right angle. An it doth hold, then move thy hands a lngth, and test again, and so forth, until thou hast proven the whole length. An it doth break, thou hast purchased a brash board, and it is useless unto thy purpose. Nor can'st thou apprehend a board which is brash by any simpler examination. I have taken two oak planks that to all outwards appearances were brothers, yet one was brash and did in all cases break as I did assay to make the rim of a great wheel of it, yet it's brother was sweet, and did bend well without the slightest crack or plaint. Now that thou hast found a sweet board, saw thee a square billet the length of thy board. Then, find thee a goodly drawknife, or a spokeshave. I myself do prefer the former since one can cut both thick and thin, and pare most cunning fine, whereas the the spokeshave is limited in it's bite. Then affix thy billet ina vice, and begin to shave thy shaft. The vice that thou woulds't use should not be a common joyners vice, for that woulds't bite too deeply and mar the wood, an it is not quick to release the wood. In it's stead thous shoulds't use a shaving horse, or a shaving bight. The latter is most easy to make, an so I shall describe it thus; Find thee a beam that doth sit horisontal. The rail of a fence, or a beam affixzed in a joyners vice shall serve. Then take thee a loop of rope, neither so short that thou cans't neer pass both beam and shaft throu't, nor so long that it doth hang so loose, but just such a length that when thou dost place the shaft and the beam through the loop that they do lie snugly, but thou can'st turn thy shaft. Then, cant thy shaft around so that it comes to make an angle with the beam - this shall tighten thy bight, and thou shalt find that thy shaft is held firm from turning, until thou does't walk it back unto alignment with the beam. Then, take thee thy knife or shave, cant thy shaft until it lies snug, hold the free end of thy shaft under thy arm, and begin to shave thy shaft. With a drawknife, thou shouldst use the flat side, so that thou does not bite too deeply. Thou shoulds't consider the shape that thous wouldst thy shaft to have - and it be round, it may notbe so easy to grasp when it is wet or thy hand is gloved gainst the cold... I would humbly suggest that thous does't shave it of 8 or 12 sides. When thou shavest thy shaft, draw it not straight an plane, but consider the grain in thy wood. Where it doth rise slightly, then leave that slight proud, so that thou hast not cut cross the grain... this shall give thee much more strength than thou mightst come to expect, for that a crack in would doth almost always progress from some point where the grain has been cut... Avoid thee cutting the grain, and thou shalst have the greastes strenth of thy wood. Once thous hast drawn it to thy shape, then consider thee the finishing of thy wood. My good Lord Lothar did suggest that one should first to oil their wood, and then to apply some resin or varnish. I might suggest that therein can lie disaster, for not all resins nor varnishes will adhere to an oiled bit of wood. It can be repelled so that none may stick, else it may rise up and crack, or it may form large flakes which dot remind one of a lepers skin under the noon day sun. An thou woulds't to follow this advice, first take thee a small amount of thy wood, thy oil, and thy varnish, and prove it aside afore tthou dost commit thy greater work. I faith, I myself do favor the following finish, which, although it is not so hard, nor so glossy as many brews that do abound this day, is true and tested, and has been in use since antiquity... Take thee a pound of good beeswax, and warm it gentle until it has melted. Then take thee a quart of good tung oil, and mix it with a quart of good turpentine, and then cast these into the wax with rapid stirring. As it doth cool, it shall give thee a pleasant smelling paste which shall enter the wood freely, and after a day may be buffed unto a dull warm glow. Tis not a hard finish, but it doth smell well, an when tis damaged, may it can be repaired by so simple a means as buffing more on. Thou shoulds't store that which thou has not used in so tight a can as thou may find, for the air do cause it to harden. And thus, in short and in plano, is how I might process to make such a shaft as to which enquiries were made. I fear me that I have left out much of the process, for the use of a drawknife is such that may be best learned at the hand of a master, and not by reading a missive upon the Rialto. But mayhaps my humble efforts at expostualting my course will help thee upon thine. And thus, I remain, thy humble and thankful servant Thomas Ignatius Perigrinus Edited by Mark S. Harris weapons-msg