a-treating-msg - 9/8/97
Surface treatments for armor. Blackening.
NOTE: See also the files: armor-msg, p-armor-msg, metal-etching-msg, metals-msg, repousee-msg, metalworking-FAQ, metalworking-msg, blacksmithing-msg.
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Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
From: "Michael Squires" <mikes at cs.indiana.edu>
Subject: Re: How build plastic armour?
Summary: how about case-hardened steel
Organization: Computer Science, Indiana University
Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1993 11:44:57 -0500
In large metropolitan areas it is possible to get steel case-hardened by
a heat-treating shop. Using case-hardened steel I expect to be able to
make a brigandine using 20 ga mild steel which is not much heavier than
the equivalent plastic. Whether this is "equivalent" to "hard-over-soft"
I don't know.
--
Mike Squires (mikes at cs.indiana.edu) 812 855 3974 (w) 812 333 6564 (h)
mikes at cs.indiana.edu 546 N Park Ridge Rd., Bloomington, IN 47408
Date: 3/26/94 9:55 PM
To: Mark Harris
From: DHUMBERSON at delphi.com
Milord
G96 is a brand of cold blueing compound, a liquid which allows
gun owners to repair damaged areas on the blued finish of guns.
True blueing is a hot-bath process, requiring full disassembly
of the gun, use of dangerous fume-producing chemical salts, and
no little skill. The end product is that deep, gorgeous blue
seen on premium guns, that seems to recede into the steel forever.
Cold blue is a liquid which is painted onto steel, then wiped off.
The finish it makes is not as rich, nor as durable as the hot
process, but it looks just fine for a working helm. I contrast
mild steel with stainless steel, which doesn't take to this
process at all.
You can find G96, or Hoppe's, at Uncle Mike's products at your
nearest gun shop. There is a product called "Plum Brown",
if you prefer a browned iron look.
I hope this helps.
Yours for the Dream
Ragnar Ketilsson, his mark<RK>
From: Charly.The.Bastard at f1077.n147.z1.fidonet.org (Charly The Bastard)
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: To Enamel or Not to Enamel...
Date: Mon, 27 Sep 1993 16:31:30 -0500
re: blacking armor
If you're looking for a durable darkener for steel, hie thee down to the local
gun shop and look into a parkerize kit. Parkerizing is a brown/black surface
treatment used on military rifles and hardware. If properly applied, it is
scratch and scuff resistant, antioxidant, and impervious to most solvents such
as petrochems and mild
acid/alkali solutions.
From: kopp0614 at nova.gmi.EDU (Adam Hill Koppy)
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: black armour (was enamel or not)
Date: 26 Sep 1993 15:13:00 -0400
enameling armour is an insane thing to do for several reasons
1 ITS GLASS! you are putting a thin coat of glass over steal even if the
glass sticks perfit the steal will flex and bend the glass wont.
broken thin chips of glass will be every where
2 to enemal steal is dangerous. the process encludes the use of several
deadly chemicals.
3 where do you have access to an enameling kiln to put your armour in (you
need to melt the glass over top the armour).
Painting armour is an option but period paints do not stick well and will
chip off only a little slower then enameling. modern paints- use the
toughest stuff you can find.
what the black color was form on the black knight was an oxidation of the
steal and oil. there are two ways to do this
1 forge blackening. heat the metal to just under glowing red. drop this in
to a oil bath. linseed oil works well or if you are cheep (i am) use old
motor oil
2 buy blacken or blueing agent blackpowder gun shops or industeral supply
might have it, call around. then coat it with oil and buff off.
good luck and remeber black gets real hot real quick
AHKoppy
From: habura at rebecca.its.rpi.edu (Andrea Marie Habura)
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: armor blacking
Date: 8 Mar 1994 01:08:27 GMT
Organization: Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, Troy NY
Keywords: armor, blacking, rust proofing,
Alison here...
Sir Jon asks how best to blacken metal. My lord husband, who is sitting
right beside me even as I type, says "heat it until dull cherry red and
then quench in used motor oil at room temperature" (WARNING: Have fire
extinguisher handy.)
Alison MacDermot
*Ex Ungue Leonem*
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
From: rac at nauvax.ucc.nau.edu
Subject: RE: armor blacking
Organization: Northern Arizona University
Date: Fri, 11 Mar 1994 15:19:44 GMT
Something I have tried in blacking armor which works, is the following:
I mix nitric acid with iron filings until the acid can take no more and
use this solution to paint on the surface of the metal. I usually make
three coats before I let it sit for a few days. Then I hand rub the surface
with steel wool and I usually obtain a dark brown shiny finish which I
can darken by oiling over.
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
From: Wynn
Subject: Re: armor blacking
Date: Tue, 8 Mar 1994 19:26:56 GMT
Keywords: armor, blacking, rust proofing,
In article <2lgj6b$qdk at usenet.rpi.edu> habura at rebecca.its.rpi.edu (Andrea Marie Habura) writes:
>Alison here...
>
>Sir Jon asks how best to blacken metal. My lord husband, who is sitting
>right beside me even as I type, says "heat it until dull cherry red and
>then quench in used motor oil at room temperature" (WARNING: Have fire
>extinguisher handy.)
>
>Alison MacDermot
>*Ex Ungue Leonem*
Another method to rust-treat is to use a propane torch to heat the metal
until the colour of the metal just turns, and then spray it down with WD-40 (oh, and don't breathe... :) This is the bluing method my lord taught me & is used on all our metal armour; after 7 years for my spagenhelm, about 8 for the legs, and 9 for his helm and legs, none of these have rusted, even after living in Houston for three years. For evening out the colour over the years, you can use stove blacking/polish. You do not need a forge or case of old motor oil, but you do need open, ventilated space in which to do the spraying on of the WD-40 as it steams noxiously.
wklosky at nitro.mines.colorado.edu
From: PAULB at saturn.uark.EDU (Paul A. Byers)
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: armor blacking
Date: 10 Mar 1994 11:38:33 -0500
Organization: University of Arkansas
John, R., Edgerton <sirjon at waffle.sns.com> writes:
> Perhaps someone could provide the information I need on
>blacking or rusting proofing armor? I understand that it can be
>done by heating the metal and diping it in or coating it with oil.
>But, what I need to know is
>: How hot and what kind of oil is best?
I 'brown' my steel armor parts.
I take a mixture of urine and salt water and rub it on the steel with a cloth.
I do this for 1or 2 days so that the steel is very rusty. (leave a damp
cloth on the steel to keep it wet. Not to thick of a cloth or it will block
the air (O2) from the steel.
After the piece is very rusty, I take steel wool and oil (QS10w30) and
'polish' the rust away. This leaves a hard 'brown' layer of oxides and oil on
the piece. It will protect it from further rusting and is kinda period.
(least, thats what a armor Larel told me.) A oil/rust piece of steel wool kept
in a cloth bag is good for touch ups.
Pavel
Calontir
From: Donald Humberson <dhumberson at delphi.com>
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: RE: armor blacking
Date: Fri, 18 Mar 94 00:34:39 -0500
If the above methods are too involved, may I suggest G96 cold blue?
It does the job, takes about 2 hours, uses no dangerous heat, and
on my mild steel helm looks rather decent!
Yours for the Dream,
Ragnar Ketilsson, his mark <RK>
From: tamela at cs.unr.edu (Dino V. Germano)
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: Is blueing period?
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 1996 10:54:10 -0800
Organization: Great Basin Internet Services, Reno, NV
Erik Blackwood asks:
> Well, the subject about says it all. I am wondering when the practice of
> blueing metal first started.
>
> Jason Mohler
> Work: j_mohler at wmc34b.wmc.edu
> Play: j_mohler1 at bulldog.wmc.edu
I know that heat-blueing is in period, as is the art of "pickeling"
sword blades in mild acid baths to both show lamanar or Wootz (sp?)
patterns, and to change the color of the iron and steel. I would think
that rust blueing would be possible, but hot tank blueing as used with
firearms is O.O.P.
Dino Germano, Reno Nevada
A.K.A. Sir Vincenzo di Calabria, West (or as YO! Vinnie)
From: "WebSerfs at ladydra.com" <sdpoe at cyberramp.net>
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: Is blueing period?
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 1996 23:15:09 -0600
Organization: CyberRamp.net, Dallas, TX (214) 340-2020/(817) 226-2020 for info
j_mohler at wmc34b.wmc.edu wrote:
> Well, the subject about says it all. I am wondering when the practice of
> blueing metal first started.
Depends on what you mean by "blueing". If you mean the modern practice of a chemical bath (usually called 'cold blueing'), the answer is no.
If you mean the changing of a sword's (or other steel weapon's) surface color (usually for reasons other than appearance); yes, it has a very old history.
A few sources, going from general to specific:
"Blueing: A form of artificial rusting, which is applied to the steel parts of a firearm to produce a coloured finish of varying hues from blue to black. It protects the metal against rust and prevents the reflection of light on the barrel in use."
--- Douglas J. Fryer, Antique Weapons A-Z, G. Bell & Sons, London, 1969, p. 3.
"Bluing: Until the ninteenth century, this process involved applying enough heat to metal to turn it colors ranging from pale blue to nearly black, depending on the extent of the heating and how quickly the metal was cooled. In the ninteenth century, chemical, or "cold", bluing was adopted."
--- Walter J. Karcheski, Jr., Arms and Armor in The Art Institute of Chicago, The Art Institute of Chicago, 1995, p. 116.
In regards to the Malaysian Kris, Stone comments: "It is then etched with a mixture of arsenious acid and lime juice which brings out the watering...In a well finished blade the result appears like a polished black metal inlaid with silver.", and notes the Kris was "first shown in the sculptures of the 15th century." He does not comment how far back etched Kris are documented.
--- George Cameron Stone, A Glossary of the Construction, Decoration, and Use of Arms and Armour..., The Southworth Press 1934, reprint, 1961, pp. 382-384.
For the Middle East, I reference Allan's comment of: "...but the colours mentioned by medieval authors were in the main probably due to etching.". He further quotes Islamic scholars of the period regarding the colors and the etching compounds used to produce them. He doesn't quote dates but refer to the title of the book...
--- James W. Allen, Persian Metal Technology 700-1300 AD, Oxford Oriental Monograph No. 2, Ithaca Press, London, 1979, p. 81.
Figiel discusses more in depth the materials used to etch and (briefly) the process; he suggests that 'watered' steel, and etching, was in use as early as the First-Fourth century BC.
--- Leo S. Figiel, On Damascus Steel, Atlantis Arts Press, 1991, pp 8-9, 21-22.
Hope these provide the beginnings of an answer. Did you have a specific reason for asking (i.e., you already own a blued blade and want to know if you can pass it off as period), or just curious? I know of a few current-day bladesmiths who can do flame-blueing if you need it done.
Stephen
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From: Edwin Hewitt <brogoose at pe.net>
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: Is blueing period?
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 1996 22:52:22 -0800
Jason wrote:
> Well, the subject about says it all. I am wondering when the practice > of blueing metal first started. Anybody have any idea?
>
> Erik Blackwood
First started? My guess would be the first iron ever heat forged was
heat blued. It makes for a remarkably effective rust preventative.
Blueing can be easily documented by looking at manuscripts and
paintings. Freelancing Mercenaries seemed to especially like the
technique (they were into black mail (no, not a pun - believe it or
not)).
I have no ready, period formula for COLD or chemical blueing, however.
The medievals had so many metal techniques, that it would not surpise me
if they did have a cold blueing.
Theophilus (c. 1100 c.e.) suggests the following blacking technique in
his book, "On Divers Arts" (available through Dover):
When you have made iron locks and hinges for small chests and for doors,
finally heat them and smear them with pitch. The nails, however, should
be tinned. When you have made spurs, bits and saddle furniture for
humble clerics and monks, and have filed them smooth, heat them a little
and rub them with ox horn or with goose feathers. For when these are
slightly melted by the heat and stick to the iron, they will provide a
black color which is somehow appropriate to it.
Edwin
From: pcrandal at flash.net (P. Crandall Polk)
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: How to blue steel
Date: Sun, 29 Dec 1996 03:04:09 GMT
> I want to blue it
Four types of blueing.
Degrease it completely. Absolutely clean. No anything on it.
Cleanliness cannot be stressed enough.
Methods:
A:
1. Boil in a cleaning solution designed to clean and accelerate
surface oxidation.
2. Boil in a black iron container (must) to 350 degrees F. for at
least 30 minutes with caustic blueing salts.
Warning: If you touch the salts when hot you will lose the limb. It
will be cooked and eaten off by the chemistry.
The fumes will kill you.
3. Boil in a black iron container with a neutralizer agent.
4. Boil in water to remove neutralizer.
5. Dip in hot "water displacing oil" and scrub.
B:
1. Boil in a cleaning solution designed to clean and accelerate
surface oxidation.
2. Coat metal with rust blue solution. Metal must be HOT.
3. Boil clean.
4. Allow to dry and rust overnight.
5. Card (brush with iron brush) off ALL rust. Good luck with chain
links.
6. Repeat until blue is deep enough.
C.
1. Insure that metal is clean.
2. Warm metal. and dip or coat with commercial "cold blue" solution.
3. When color is right. clean and degrease and oil.
Warning: This method is not rust. This chemically coats the metal with
a copper salt and them turns the salt dark with a mercury compound.
It will wear off and poison you if not careful.
The fumes from the warm metal and solution will kill you.
D.
1. Find a good gunsmith and pay him to do A.
--
Crandall
From: rsrchins <rsrchins at cts.com>
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: How to blue steel
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 1996 11:19:36 -0800
P. Crandall Polk gave excellent instructions for a professional quality
bluing job, but his methods require a lot of dangerous and difficult
techniques that most of us are not equipped or trained to do. Here is
how I blue helms, etc., well enough to look good for several years of
fighting (if kept well oiled.)
1. Clean and polish the steel item until every surface to be blued is
bright and shiny. The shinier it is the better it will look.
2. Remove all grease, wax, and polishing compounds. I use carburetor
cleaner. Do it outside and observe all safety warnings on the
solvent(s).
Use a succession of disposable towels so that the oil lifted up by one
wipe is not redeposited on the item by the next wipe. If you would like
the finished item to be decorated with your finger prints, just touch it
after it has been cleaned.
3. Put the shiny item into a kitchen stove oven at 550+ degrees F
(preferably electric; I have had trouble getting this to work with gas
stoves). After about 45 minutes it will start to darken, and in another
half hour it will be as dark as it is going to get.
4. Let the item cool until you can handle it safely, then take it
outside and coat it with lots of oil. I use WD40, but there are probably
better oils.
If you would prefer to "brown" the item instead of "blueing" it, put
the oil on before you heat it. It may stink up your oven and kitchen,
though. Good luck.
Tryggvi Halftrollsson
From: "Morgan E. Smith" <mesmith at freenet.calgary.ab.ca>
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: How to blue steel
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 1996 18:51:06 -0700
Organization: Calgary Free-Net
My lord, Conmor Gallowglass, who is a mundane goldsmith/metalwork artist,
says that you should put the helmet in the oven (yeah, he said oven) at
400 degrees F., for about half an hour or so. He also says this works
better in gas ovens than electric, but electric should work, though not
quite as fast or as well.
Morgan the Unknown
Reply to me - I am his email mouthpiece as he cannot spell, and yes, I am
a Grammar-bitch.
From: Edwin Hewitt <brogoose at pe.net>
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: How to blue steel
Date: Thu, 02 Jan 1997 00:21:56 -0800
Matthew Saroff wrote:
> Hi, I am putting together some armor, and I want to blue it for both
> appearance and rust resistance.
> When I talk to people, the response is generally, "Oh, it's
> simple, just use a torch."
The torch method will work, but will seldom be as even as you might
want. If you prefer an even effect, use an oven and heat above 200 - 300
degrees. Heat bluing relies on the chemical reaction of the oxygen and
iron to create an iron oxide coating which will inhibit the formation of
rust. Rust happens to also be iron oxide.
First, completely clean your metal. This usually means to "pickle" it
in acid to remove any oxidation or oil. Then neutralize and buff dry.
Take care not to introduce surface impurities (ie skin oil).
Isolate the helmet from anything flammable. I rest my helmet on an
anvil stake in the same way you would wear it. You could also suspend
it on a wire. Start the long process of heating the metal with the
torch. I work in small circles and watch the metal turn color to just
past blue. I use oxy-acetyline. When done the metal is HOT.
Allow the metal to regularize temperature (experience) but not get cool.
Apply oil with a rag (WD-40 spray can be used too). If the temp is
still too hot, the oil will burn right off. You want to add the oil
when it just goes below that temp. The metal will darken substancially.
When you are done and the helmet has cooled, the effect can be quite
beautiful. There is often a very "unique" patina pattern on the
metal when this technique is used. I happen to like it.
One caveat, this is only a surface treatment, and although it will
inhibit rust, it will not stop it. Keep the metal clean and dry between
battles, and oil it before storing. Some people prefer several layers
of wax.
Edwin of Runedun
Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 19:07:26 -0500
From: roger boulet <boulet.roger at mcleod.net>
To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu
Subject: Re: Armor in Black and White
I went to a very nice exhibit at the local Czech and Slovak Museum
located here in Cedar Rapids, Iowa. The exhibit is called "A Thousand
Years of Czech Culture" and is on loan from The National Museum in
Prague. While the exhibit is not large, there are many artifacts of
interest to people in the SCA and other students of history and was
certainly worth the $6.00 admission fee.
Four pieces of armor are displayed.
1. A very nice shrit of rivited mail.
2. A gilded "black" Morion.
3. A black and white Morion.
4. A black and white back and breast with the Gorget and shoulder
harness attached.
After having followed the discussion on black and white armor with some
interest you can imagine my delight at being able to get within six
inches (as close as I could get to the glass without breaking my nose)of
three examples of "black" armor.
The glided Morion definatly had the look of heat blued steel.
The black and white Morion has the same appearence as the black and
white armor in the Landeszeughaus of Graz picture catalogue. The
polished steel or white areas are in fact raised and the black areas are
covered with a material that looks painted on. It strongly reminds me of
the coating that used to be put on tools to protect them from rust
called "jappaning". I could not find my book on antique tools, but as I
recall the main part of this compound was pitch.
The back and breast showed yet a thrid possible method to achieve the
black and white effect. In this case the black areas were raised above
the polished areas. It was mentioned in an earlier sending that steel
that has been hot worked has a dark surface. The hammer marks were still
visible on the black areas so it appears to me that this piece was hot
worked and then the white areas were polished smooth. The contrast
between the the polished and unpolished areas is quite striking and at a
distance appears black and white.
It appears that some confusion has been caused by the word enamel. So
far we have hot enamel, cold enamel, and enamal paint. If armor was hot
enamaled my guess would be that it would be for parade. Hot enamal is
brittle and the tempurature at which it is applied would ruin any
attempt at heat treatment.
I like the idea of enamel paint to achieve this effect for SCA armor. It
would be tough and relitivly easy to apply.
The exhibit runs until the end of December 1997.
Roger
<the end>