seamstresses-msg - 3/22/02 Working with seamstresses. Lists & reviews of various seamstresses. NOTE: See also the files: sewing-msg, sewing-tools-msg, sergers-msg, clothng-forms-msg, CMA-sew-supl-msg, color-a-fab-bib. ************************************************************************ NOTICE - This file is a collection of various messages having a common theme that I have collected from my reading of the various computer networks. Some messages date back to 1989, some may be as recent as yesterday. This file is part of a collection of files called Stefan's Florilegium. These files are available on the Internet at: http://www.florilegium.org I have done a limited amount of editing. Messages having to do with separate topics were sometimes split into different files and sometimes extraneous information was removed. For instance, the message IDs were removed to save space and remove clutter. The comments made in these messages are not necessarily my viewpoints. I make no claims as to the accuracy of the information given by the individual authors. Please respect the time and efforts of those who have written these messages. The copyright status of these messages is unclear at this time. If information is published from these messages, please give credit to the originator(s). Thank you, Mark S. Harris AKA: THLord Stefan li Rous Stefan at florilegium.org ************************************************************************ From: bambi at visenix.UUCP (Hilda) Date: 14 Jul 91 16:23:39 GMT Greetings dear gentle It seems from the tone of your letter that you feel you will perhaps not be charged a fair price for having someone "just" sew up your garb when you are the one who has invested in the fabric. It is an understandable fear, for to those who do not sew, it must be like paying a majician for a cure when it seems all she does is throw herbs on a flame and YOU have bought the herbs.(smile) but may I suggest you have a closer relationship with your tailor seamstress. I have sewn for quite a few people many is the time there have been disagreements over price.the major ones have occured due to 1)the client, unfamiliar with clothing construction techniques has pre chosen the fabric and it is less than suitable for the project, this may if the client insists on using THAT fabric add to time and materials needed in order to compensate.solution, consult with the seamstress FIRST or even shop together. 2)many times the client merely brings the main fabric and perhaps fasteners. Rarely is lining or interlining (the stiff fabric used to keep things like necklines from collapsing) provided. It may seem like just to be a little thing but, that plus what are called notions like thread and anything used on the garment is an expense, a minor one but it adds up every garment you make. These 2 problems have over and over again been solved by closer communication with the client.I personally charge a separate hourly wage for cutting than I do for straight sewing.this is because cutting is a separate art and much more of a risk. Many times I have merely cut a garment and let the client then take it to a less experienced seamstress like a family member who though willing was unable to help with the specifics of the garment like altering the pattern. Most seamstresses/ tailors will work with you to get something apropriate to your needs. In general also I have found people in the sca to be so generous and willing to work things out, I think I've gone to heaven. You and your seamstress/tailor I'm sure will have a wonderful time and a beautiful garment to show for it if you just keep talking and there is no such thing as a dumb question. I'll be at pennsic working for mideaval miscellenea, and the dragons majic. My name is Beatriz del Morisco. Please stop by and say hello to the "black lady with all the hair" as my daughter's fiends call me and show me the lovely things I'm sure you will have. enjoying the lovely feelings of the dream Beatize del Morisco From: trifid at agora.rain.com (Roadster Racewerks) Date: 15 Jul 91 08:14:27 GMT Organization: Open Communications Forum SERIOUS authenticity (such as hand-work and complicated, tailored, multi-panelled patterns) can be very expensive indeed. But as Thomas mentions, such garments should last for mant years. In period a well-made garment made out of durable fabrics could be inherited over several generations, constantly being altered and made to conform to the nearest current fashion. (I've seen an article on a dress that was discovered to be much older than it looked. A seamstress did a sort of "forensic" investigation of what the seams hid of older construction, and found it had been at least three different dresses over about 200 years!) Collars and sleeves were often saved and used again, or discarded and the dress refashioned by adding newer ones. If you cannot afford absolute authenticity just yet, consult with the person doing the sewing to see if an authentic-appearing garment that will withstand only outward inspection cannot be compromised upon. My own favorite dress has a false underdress, with fairly convincing slash work, but I was able to use a favorite blouse I could no longer wear, because I actually cut it up and sewed it under the slashes, saving much material. And don't get your heart set upon a very complicated tailoring if your purse is slim...the more cutting and assembling of little panels, the more it will cost. (And this is true of mundane clothing as well...) NicMaoilan trifid at agora.rain.com Newsgroups: rec.org.sca From: pats at equalizer.cray.com (Patricia Shanahan) Subject: Re: Ana's Accoutremonts Organization: Cray Research Superservers Inc., San Diego CA, USA Date: Tue, 25 Oct 1994 16:55:20 GMT In article <38gunj$fpg at delphinium.cig.mot.com>, garvey at poohbear.cig.mot.com (Heather L. Garvey) writes: |> |> I was wondering if anyone has pros or cons about garb, service, or |> quality from Ana's Accoutremonts. She's the seamstress who will send you |> patterns to fit the measurements you send and also makes garb to your |> specifications. I am getting a length of silk from China (my friend |> is on a business trip there - $5 a meter isn't bad!)) and was planning on |> sending it to her for a cotehardie. I was wondering if anyone's had problems |> or praises about her work. :) I also want to get the pattern for the |> cotehardie from her so I can make some of my own. (I'm one of those |> Real-Life-sized women and _just_ outside anorexic, petite American standard |> size range (2-14). A pattern tailored to my exact measurements is worth |> the $40! :-)) |> -- |> Heather Garvey Phone: (708) 632-3790 |> Motorola Cellular, ITS, Rm 2231 E-mail: garvey at cig.mot.com I ordered a houpelande, underdress, headress, belt, and pouch from Ana at the last Estrella war. The clothing arrived before the scheduled date. It was complete and exactly as agreed on when I ordered it. It fits comfortably. It rapidly became my favourite outfit for tournaments, and I have had complements on my appearance each time I have worn it. To my admittedly inexpert eye it appears to be very well made with tidily finished seams and hems. Since I placed the order in person, she did the measurements herself, and there was less risk of any misunderstanding about what was being ordered. Agnes of Ilford -- Patricia Shanahan pats at cray.com phone: (619) 625-3708 From: sewinwench at aol.com (SewinWench) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: tights for men in ren. outfits Date: 3 May 1995 21:27:59 -0400 Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364) I am a professional costumer and make tights all the time for shows. I sell beautiful cable-knit cotton tights (these are thick and appropriate for winter) for 60.00. Odd sizes are not a problem. E-mail if interested. Sarah Seamstitcher The Sewing Wench From: SewinWench at aol.com (5/10/95) To: markh at sphinx RE>tights for men in ren. outfits Greetings Stefan, I currently do freelance sewing as a side-line to my regular theatre jobs. I have sewn such unusual items as renaissance garb, drag, fantasy costumes, and S&M gear. I can usually make anything I have a picture of, or I will sit with the client and draw as they describe the item. Often I am asked to make copies of expensive dresses seen in department stores or magazines, usually with one alteration of design or in a different color. As a costumer I have access to materials and services that are not available to the general public. If I cannot take on an assignment I can refer the client to someone who can. I usually either give a price on the labor and materials of an item or can give a price on the labor and present receipts for the materials. I require a deposit of half the amount quoted which is non-refundable once work has begun. I will accept payments over time but the item will not be delivered until paid in full. I am not set up to handle credit cards. Portfolio, resume', and references available. Sara Johnston The Sewing Wench (205) 854-8166 (voice mail) Since I move regularly with my work I have found it easier to maintain one phone number and contact people with my current address. From: jschumac at uns-dv1 (Joel Schumacher) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: Poofy shirts Date: 12 Sep 1995 18:15:51 GMT Organization: JCPenney Co. Inc. CONNECT (connect at aol.com) wrote: : Dave said: : Does anyone have directions on how to : make one, or a catalog of such things so I can buy them ? For a catalog, send a self-addressed stamped envelope to: T'Ger Toggs PO Box 47 Berryville, AR 72616-0047 Phone: 501-253-5746 [Address update from Ld Edrei the Quiet, 4/5/01. I don't know if the phone number has changed or not. - Stefan] Mention that you are an SCA member so that you will get an SCA price list. T'Ger was selling "poofy" shirts at the Gulf War for $26/each. He probably charges more with shipping/handling. -- -Joel Schumacher aka Karl Von Augsburg jschumac at uns-dv1.jcpenney.com OR jschumac at jcpenney.com From: Laura Arnette To: markh at risc.sps.mot.com Date: Mon, 30 Sep 96 13:45:28 EDT Subject: adding business to clothing list on Rialto Greetings to Stefan li Rous: I am a long-time historic costumer with a brand new business. When I saw your listing on the web, I thought you would be kind enough to list my name and address on the SCAdian pages. The Courtly Closet 6291 Bolling Brook Lane Gloucester, VA 23061 (804) 693-0406 e-mail: larnette at leo.vsla.edu I specialize in ready-made clothing, hats, underpinnings and special order raiment. My catalog is $1.00, refundable with first order. Your indulgence in this matter would be appreciated. Your humble servant, Laura Arnette From: evermorecl at aol.com (Evermorecl) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Period Clothing Web Site Date: 30 Sep 1996 17:38:09 -0400 Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364) Well met, good Gentles! Please check out a new web site of fine quality period clothing at affordable prices to be found at: www.evermore-clothiers.com Custom orders welcomed. Enjoy! From: arintc at aol.com Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: Desperately seeking cotehardie pattern Date: 20 Nov 1996 13:57:52 GMT Try contacting: Queta's Close Countess Enriqueta de reyes y Mora c/o Harriet Stetsor 5703 19th Ave South Gulfport, FL 33707. I have found that she is an excellent source for all costuming needs. Good luck. Cillian Ulffellsson, House DarkTree, Constable of Shire Storm, Trimaris. From: "DMS Unit #4" To: Subject: Your FAQ Date: Thu, 22 May 1997 10:01:29 -0700 Hi Mark, I just wanted to let you know that I have a few corrections for your FAQ. The Queen's Thimble 4864 Troth St. Mira Loma, CA 91752-1845 (909)685-4568 e-mail: qnsthmbl at pacbell.net WEB: http://www.geocities.com/Vienna/7253 (It will open 5/31/97) Established in 1993 The Queen's Thimble has grown from a small hobby to a full time job. The woman that owns the shop specializes in costuming from 1200-1900's. She prides herself on historic authenticity. She designs her own patterns and handles almost all aspects of the costume, right down to the shoes. Mostly mail order, mostly custom designs. Doug Buckmaster Webmaster for the Queen's Thimble From: "Jag" To: Subject: Rialto Info Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 20:17:12 -0800 I also have a recommendation for a seamstress- Diane Rose Barr of "Rose D' Zynes" custom makes Medieval and Renaissance wedding attire. She has won awards for her work and is a member of the SCA. I haven't used her services as of yet, but she was kind enough to send lots of helpful information when I called and talked to her. Rose D' Zynes 1196 Sunglow Drive Oceanside, CA 92056 619-736-1673 1-800-899-7673 Jocelyn Gordon Date: Wed, 22 Oct 1997 12:59:15 -0500 From: Steve Hemphill To: bryn-gwlad at Ansteorra.ORG Subject: Re: BG - renfest? > another question is - where in austin can i aquire one of those standard > bodice type thingies? i thought i would have a lot more time to sew, but > no dice. Blatant advertising to follow...... Mistress Ariella (here in BG) is Proprietress of "Elizabeth's Wardrobe". She manufactures, primarily, 16th c. undergarments (chemises and shirts) and now has a line of bodices available in sizes 2 through 18 (based on the Eleanor of Toledo bodice in Janet Arnold)...all of course at reasonable prices... ; ). Also, for those of you who sew, she will be publishing the bodice pattern in the not too distant future. She also specializes in custom work (she dresses several characters at TRF, other Renaissance Faires as well as being costume designer/wardrobe supervisor on several films). Elizabeth's Wardrobe Dawn Allee 121 Mike's Way Leander, TX 78641-1389 512/260-3740 rufflife at io.com Eule/Steve From: auroraeb at aol.com (AuroraeB) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: WARNING: Who NOTto order garb from Date: 24 Mar 1998 20:29:56 GMT Yet another lesson of "buyer beware"..... As a professional in the: Theatrical costuming/Bridal/Custom sewing industry, here are some tips to make sure you do not get burned by "custom seamstresses"..... 1.) Ask to see examples of their finished work. Examine it inside and out for quality and workmanship. If they are not local, this is a judgement call you have to make. 2.) Ask for references of people/organizations thay have sewn for. Contact somebody this person has done business with and verify the quality/workmanship/promptness. 3.) Ask to see their portfolio. If they are proud of their work, they will have kept sketches and photos to "show off". 4.) Ask for a sketch and a schematic of how they will construct the garment (s). If they say you need "X" number of yards of fabric, they should be able to tell you why it is needed. (Especially important for very expensive fabrics) 5.) What is their satisfaction policy? Will they refund money if the garment is not satisfactory? Will they re-do it for you? Will they eat the cost if it takes longer than the agreed upon time to make it? 6.) Do they offer a written receipt with the item description, cost, and due date on it? Why not? If ANY business balks about providing you a receipt with these things on it, be suspicious. Personally, I don't think I would do business with a seamstress that I could not meet with for fittings, etc..... But, if you do, be sure to get accurate measurements, and even measurements you do not think you will need. A professional will have a measurement sheet with a sketch of a human figure, and will take and fill in the measurements accordingly. Or give you VERY detailed instructions on measuring yourself. I guess this is a hard lesson to learn. But, people need to really think about trusting special fabric to a sewing service. Especially a service that is not local. It is not that hard to do the job right, and a seamstress is only as good as her clients are satisfied. Sorry you got burned by this person. Tracy Aurorae B. Subject: ANST - Buying garb Date: Thu, 26 Mar 98 08:12:16 MST From: David Backlin To: ansteorra at Ansteorra.ORG I buy most of my garb from T'ger of T'Ger Toggs. I have several shirts and a pair of tights and am quite pleased with them all. You've probably seen him at Pennsic and Gulf Wars as well as many festivals (KC Ren-Fest, Namron's Medieval Fair, etc). He also does special orders which admittedly MAY take a little while, but it's worth the wait. The quality of his work is very good! T'Ger Toggs PO Box 47 Berryville, AR 72616-0047 [Address updated from Ld Edrei the Quiet, 4/5/01. - Stefan] == Ld. Edrei the Quiet mka Dave Backlin Merchant & Adventurer Ad/ PR Student Shire-March of the Grimfells University of Arkansas Kingdom of Calontir Fayettveille, AR Subject: Re: ANST - Buying garb Date: Thu, 26 Mar 98 10:07:48 MST From: LadyRainah To: ansteorra at Ansteorra.ORG I must say I own garb made by T'ger and it is some of the best garb I own. His prices are fair and the quality is good!!! He will be at Namrons Med Faire!!!!!! For those who wish to see his goods! Vivat T'ger With respect, Shameless Date: Sun, 08 Nov 1998 11:35:24 -0700 From: Curtis & Mary To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu Subject: Re: What is garb "worth"? [SCA] Gwen Morse wrote: > I make Early Irish garb for various members of my group (we play 5th > century Irish Celts, as my sig indicates). Up until now, the "barter" > system has been fairly simple. ***************************** For what it's worth, I *do* sew for people for money. This is strictly the *normal* business way of going about figuring how much to charge: 1. What did the fabric, trim, et. cost you? Double the price. [normal retail markup, by the way] 2. How long will it take to cut and sew? Figure in *every* minute you spend, from prewashing / ironing fabric if necessary, to laying it out for cutting, cutting, all the time spent basting, pinning, sewing, including clipping threads, sewing buttons, trim, final pressing and hanging. Figure in also, the time required for measuring and fitting the garment to the person and making any pattern alterations. Now, how much is your time worth? You should charge your time *at* least at the same rate you make on your mundane job. I charge $10 an hour, because I've been doing this for years and it takes me less time than less experienced people would take on the same job. When I first started (mmmmmlike 10 years ago) I charged minimun wage or a little more. 3. Overhead. Even when you work from home you have overhead-lights, gas, water, you might have to buy a new machine or repair your old one. You pay taxes and insurance on the space you work from, et. Total up #1 & #2 and add in another 10- 20% to cover these costs. Now you have the price of what it's *really* worth, in the *real* world. Whether or not you charge that much [you will be very surprised at the total!] is up to you, but at least gives you a starting place. Mairi, Atenveldt Date: Sun, 08 Nov 1998 17:25:58 EST From: styrbjorn at juno.com (Skip Wilder) To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu Subject: Re: What is garb "worth"? [SCA] A problem for many artists in the SCA is that most of our members don't have much money. The barter system is one that I would like to see encouraged in the SCA since it's very period. When I was merchanting in the early 90's, I used this formula for figuring prices: Cost of materials + $10 per hour of labor. I make $16 per hour working in a grocery store (unskilled labor) so I find it hard to accept anything less than $10 for skilled labor, and I would probably charge more for mundane sale. You have to determine how much your time is worth to you. I will help members of my group for free, and you might think of helping your friend learn how to sew for himself. Then he would have a skill to barter with future new members. Also think of bartering for 'slave' labor, like cooking or cleaning dishes at events. Ideally members of a group would have several skills and could barter among themselves for what they need, but bartering outside of your group is also a possibility. So if there is something another merchant/artist has that you want, make it a three-way barter. Styrbjorn Ulfhamr Date: Fri, 28 Jan 2000 14:54:07 MST From: "Ches" Subject: Re: ANST - looking for.... To: "Mark.S Harris (rsve60)" I thought you would like to add this to your archives.... http://sca-garb.freeservers.com/ From the WebPages: A Resource for Researching and Constructing Historic Clothing Worn in the Society for Creative Anachronism Welcome to the web page of the SCA-Garb electronic mailing list! The purpose of this page is to create a showcase for the talented clothiers, costumers, seamstresses and tailors of the SCA to share their articles, class handouts, book reviews, and pictures of their work. FHavas Dallas, Texas Edited by Mark S. Harris seamstresses-msg Page 10 of 10