clothing-books-msg - 12/14/99 Book reviews, bibliographies and pattern sources. NOTE: See also these files: patterns-msg, merch-cloth-lst, clothing-bib, clothing-FAQ, clothing-msg, costuming-lnks, p-sumpt-laws-msg, smptuary-laws-lnks. ************************************************************************ NOTICE - This file is a collection of various messages having a common theme that I have collected from my reading of the various computer networks. Some messages date back to 1989, some may be as recent as yesterday. This file is part of a collection of files called Stefan's Florilegium. These files are available on the Internet at: http://www.florilegium.org I have done a limited amount of editing. Messages having to do with separate topics were sometimes split into different files and sometimes extraneous information was removed. For instance, the message IDs were removed to save space and remove clutter. The comments made in these messages are not necessarily my viewpoints. I make no claims as to the accuracy of the information given by the individual authors. Please respect the time and efforts of those who have written these messages. The copyright status of these messages is unclear at this time. If information is published from these messages, please give credit to the originator(s). Thank you, Mark S. Harris AKA: THLord Stefan li Rous Stefan at florilegium.org ************************************************************************ From: 21464RM%MSU.BITNET at MITVMA.MIT.EDU ("Roseann.Miller") Date: 7 May 90 18:43:18 GMT Greetings to the Rialto, and esp. Elizabeth of Braidwood: I have been experimenting with glovemaking, and have come up with a few reference books you may find useful: Collins, C. Cody. Love of a Glove. New York, Fairchild Publishing, 1949. (has a simple history of gloves, some photos of period gloves from 1500 on, and some quickie hints on leatherworking for gloves) Cummings, Valerie. Gloves. London, Batsford. 1982. (Good historical info, but starts at 1600. Does very briefly cover Elizabethan gloves, and has reproduction of mid-17th-century patterns for gloves) Johnson. Leatherwork. London, C.A. Pearson, 1949. (Leatherworking how-to with instructions for making both lined and unlined leather gloves. The patterns given are not too far off from the ones in Cummings) Smith, F.R. Practical Leatherwork. New York, Pitman. 1946. (Dover took over this one, but I don't know if it's being published anymore. Like Johnson, a modern book but with adaptable patterns and helpful how-tos on construction). There are also extant period gloves to be found in books on period embroidery and costume accessories. There are knitted gloves in pictures and references, knitters on the Net may know of some. <snip> Hopefully this information will be helpful. Next project - gloves for archery before the Pennsic! Roxanne of Bloekmedwe : R. Miller Barony of the NorthWoods, Midrealm : Okemos, MI From: gwilym at micor.ocug.on.ca (Bill Sanderson) Date: 15 Oct 90 12:51:32 GMT Organization: M.B. Cormier INC. Greetings again, from Gwilym The book I referred to earlier is: Tartans: Their Art and History, Ann Sutton & Richard Carr, Arco Publishing inc., New York, 1984. In the bibliography the following book is mentioned: History of Highland Dress, J. Telfer Dunbar, Oliver & Boyd and Batson, London, 1962 and 1979. (Some editions have an excellent appendix on "Early Scottish Highland Dyes" by Annette Kok.) Awilda: The lichen dyes which were and are used in the Highlands produce some very bright colours, without mordants. The book referred to above has a colour plate of lichen and vegetable dyed skeins, and the colours while somewhat muted from modern chemical dyes, are quite bright. The interesting thing about this book is that it gives the setts for all of the registered and many of the unregistered clan From: sharpwa!grendal!nam at nosun.west.sun.com (Nicholas Marcelja) Date: 1 Jan 91 22:14:26 GMT Subject: Bibliography for Corset class Tailor's Pattern Book 1589 (facsimile) Juan de Alcega Ruth Bean; Carlton, Bedford 1979 Hispanic Costume 1480-1530 Ruth Matilda Anderson Hispanic Society of America; NY 1979 Patterns of Fashion (1560-1620) Janet Arnold Drama Books; NY 1985 Cut My Cote Dorothy K. Burnham Royal Ontario Museum; 1973 Period Costume for Stage and Screen Jean Hunnisett Bell & Hyman Ltd.; London 1986 The Annotated Arnold R.W. Trump Self-published; 1987 A Simple Doublet & Trunkhose R.W. Trump Self-published; 1987 Corsets and Crinolines Nora Waugh Batsford Books; London 1954 Cut of Women's Clothes (1600-1930) Nora Waugh Faber & Faber, Ltd.: London 1968 Nicholas Marcelja ....sun!nosun!sharpwa!grendal!nam Grendal From: alg at cs.cornell.edu (Anne Louise Gockel) Date: 18 Nov 91 18:27:43 GMT Organization: Cornell Univ. CS Dept, Ithaca NY 14853 2) Are there any sources of historical costuming patterns supplies? Patterns and Supplies: Fall Creek Suttlery P.O. Box 530 Freedom, CA 95019 (408) 728-1888 - $2.00 catalog. Civil War era items and patterns. La Pelleterie P.O. Box 127 Highway 41 Arrow Rock, Missouri 65320 (816) 837-3261 - $3.00 catalog. Coats and cloaks, pre 1840. NE Shutsa Traders P.O. Box 186 Haven, Kansas 67542 (316) 465-3359 - $1.50 catalog. Cal/Mex era and horsegear. JAS Townsend & Son P.O. Box 415 Pierceton, IN 46562 (800) 338-1665 - Hats, cloaks, clasps. Campell's Designs Box 400 Gratz, PA 17030-0400 - $3.00 catalog. ($4.50 in spring 1991?) Patterns from 1776-1945 Carolina Stitches in Time Box 10933 Winston-Salem, N.C. 27108 (919) 764-0790 - Period clothing patterns. Amazon Vinegar & Pickling Works 2218 E. 11th St. Davenport, IA 52803-3760 (319) 322-6800 (800) 798-7979 - orders ONLY and only from the US (319) 322-4003 - fax - $2.00 general catalog, $5 for historical patterns catalog. This is "the mailing list to be on". Historical patterns selected from Folkwear, midiaeval Miscellanea, early western, victorian, hoop-gown era, Past Patterns, Attic Copies (1920's to 40's), Prairie Clothing, amish, kilts, ethnic and dance. Past Patterns P.O. Box 7587 Grand Rapids, Michigan 49510 (616) 245-9456 - $3.00 catalog. Good selection of early 20th century clothing. Mediaeval Miscellanea 7006 Raleigh Road Annandale, VA 22003 - What else? Midieaval patterns (think Robin Hood :-). Folkwear The Taunton Press 63 South Main St, Box 5506 Newtown, CT 06470-5506 - Only some of the original patterns have been reprinted, but Tauton is reprinting others regularly. Mostly Victorian and Early American patterns. G-Street Fabrics 11854 Rockville Pike Rockville, Md 20852 (301) 231-8998 Fair Winds Pattern Co. 819 N. June St. Hollywood, CA 90038. - Send $1 for small brouchure featuring six patterns. Very nice 1920's jazz dress, Princess Bride-style wedding gown, a couple of nice casual, day-wear 1920's dresses. One ho-hum 1940's dress. R.L.Shep. Box 668 Mendocino, CA 95460. - 1990-91 catalog has 1000 items. $2.50 cataog. Books, magazines and reprints. Books related to the costume and textile arts, including out of print and hard to find books. Shep has also reprinted a number of older clothing books, including a couple of books of patterns for Victorian and Edwardian clothing. Raiments 3345 East Miraloma Suite 134 Anaheim CA 92806 - Patterns from 1100-1950 representing 15 pattern companies. Catalog $5 (refundable with purchase). The Cabinet of Vintage Patterns 3522 Deerbrook Windsor Ontario N8R 2E9 - Canadian company featuring patterns from 1905 to 1930; reproductions of women's and children's clothing. Catalog $4. Some very nice 1910-20 tea dresses. Old World Enterprises Dept 302 29036 Kepler Ct Cold Spring Minn 56320 - 19th century patterns. $2 for catalog. Their listing says they specialize in 19th century garments. Their patterns aren't copies of existing garments, though, but originals based on the prevailing styles at the time. They offer multiple graded patterns in female sizes 8-10-12-14 and male sizes 38-40-42. Catalog $2. Prairie Clothing Co 3732 Tanager Drive NE Cedar Rapids IA 52402 (319) 378-0125 - $1 catalog. Lots of "Little House on the Prairie"-style clothing. More or less current clothing styles adapted for a combination prairie/Edwardian feel without tons of sewing details. Remember When Collection 361 N. Ohio Salina, KS 67401 - Send SASE for brochure. "Romantic" clothing. Current designs adapted to a Victorian feel. Dave Uebele ({ucbvax!ucscc |uunet | sun}!sco!daveu) has provided a fairly complete list of sources for 1850-1900 clothing and heavy materials construction. See his notes later in this article. Magazines: Vintage Fashions Hobby House Press Inc. 900 Frederick St. Cumberland, MD 21502 -- a bi-monthly magazine focusing on vintage apparel and instructions for their care and repair. One-year subscription $19.95, sample copy $2.95. Books: Some of these books are out of print. Most of them should be in a good university library. Some of them will be in the public library: Iris Brooke: "A practical guide to the constuction of theatrical medieval garments" (or something like that) (Iris Brooke has written a number of historical costuming books). Alcega, Juan de. Tailor's Pattern Book 1589. (reprint) Burnham, Dorothy. Cut My Cote. (diagrams of actual historical (and ethnic?) clothing in the Royal Ontario Museum. Diagrams are graphed and shown with metric dimensions.) Hill, Margot Hamilton & Pater A. Buchnell. The Evolution of Fashion: Pattern & Cut from 1066-1930. Houston, Mary G. & Florence Hornblower. Medieval Costumes in England and France. Holkefer, Katherine Strand. Patterns for Theatrical Costumes. Edson, Doris & Lucy Barton. Period Patterns. Fernald, Mary. "Costume Design and Making" From an article on sewing costumes in Threads #30: Waugh, Norah: "The Cut of Women's Clothes 1600-1930" and "The Cut of Men's Clothes 1600-1900" (Theatre Arts Books) Concise descriptions and drawings of men's gaments from 1600 to 1900. Includes scaled patterns that can be enlarged. Hillhouse, Marion and Evelyn A Mansfield: Dress Design: Draping and Flat Pattern Making. Riverside Press 1948. Clear instructions on draping, with excellent drawings of bodice, skirt, sleeve, and neckline styles. Perfect for reproducing styles of the 1940's. Covey, Liz: The Costumer's Handbook. Prentice Hall 1980. A good basic source for the tecniques of theatrical cosumters. Arnold, Janet: Patterns of Fashion 1: Englishwomen's Dresses and Their Construction c. 1660-1860; Patterns of Fashion 2: Englishwomen's Dresses and their Construction c. 1860-1940. New York. Drama Book Publishers, 1972. Contains notes on construction techniques and fabrics. Very clear drawings show the inside of each garment. History of Costume from Ancient Egypt to 20th Century. Blanche Payne. c.1965. New York. Harper & Row. Includes patterns drawn to scale. One tactic is to choose a garment in a book, make a transparency of the pattern in the book, and go buy a pattern as similar as possible. Then project the transparency on the wall and use it to adjust the bought pattern to the style of the garment in the book. Dover has a Pictorial Archive catalog and a Needlework catalog. The Needlework catalog includes several books that discuss Renaissance embroidery. The Pictorial Archive catalog has a FEW books that cover costumes. Typically these are books that contain pictures of people in costume. There are few (none?) books with actual costumes drafted. Dover Publications 31 East 2nd St Mineola, NY 11501. The whole costumer's catalog is probably available from: GCFCG (Greater Columbia Fantasy Costumers guild). P.O. Box 194 Mt. Airy, Md 21771 Subject: book review: textiles and clothing Date: 1 Jun 92 From: SHERMAN%TRLN.DECnet at uncvx1.acs.unc.EDU ("Dennis R. Sherman") Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Organization: The Internet Greetings to the Rialto from Robyyan. My copy of _Textiles and Clothing_, the latest in the Museum of London series about medieval finds arrived this weekend. For those that don't know, this is a series of books on recoveries from archeological sites in London. The first three books in the series are _Knives and Scabbards_, _Shoes and Pattens_, and _Dress Accessories_. The titles are indicative of the subject matter of each :-) These books are terrific research and reconstruction material. They include detailed descriptions, drawings, and photographs of recovered articles, in many cases with patterns from articles disassembled for preservation. And they have *large* bibliographies. This particular volume, _Textiles and Clothing_, contains information of interest to anyone working with cloth, although I think it will be of most use to weavers. There are no complete garments included, although there are many fragments (i.e. pieces of a sleeve, a foot from hose, a couple of hoods, etc.) I don't think there are sufficient clothing fragments to base a complete set of garb on the information here, but the information on details (how to sew buttonholes or eyelets, making cloth buttons, how hems and edges are turned or bound) is quite valuable. Selections from the table of contents: (typos mine, multiple -- indicate places where I left things out) Techniques used in textile production wool-hair-linen-wilk-dyes-looms Wool textiles state of preservation-the weaves of the cloths-three-shed twills---tabby weaves--tapestry-knitting-felt Goathair textiles Linen textiles self-patterened weaves -- finishing Silk textiles ---sources of supply---tabby woven---weft-patterened---satin damask Mixed cloths Narrow wares tablet woven braids--fingerloop braids-plaited braids-- -garters---hairnets Sewing techniques and tailoring sewing threads-sewing techniques-bindings and facings- fastening methods---dagges I highly recommend this series for people interested in historical accuracy in their reconstructions. All are available from Her Majesties Stationary Office (HMSO): HMSO Publications Centre PO Box 276, London, SW8 5DT 071-873-9090 (remember to dial for England first) They take Visa and MasterCard. Prices on the books are different, and vary with the exchange rate. _Textiles and Clothing_ cost me just under $55, including surface mail shipping. Bibliographic data (try to get your local library to order these books! :-) -- Elisabeth Crowfoot, Frances Pritchard and Kay Staniland; _Medieval finds from excavations in London:4, Textiles and Clothing c.1150-c.1450_; London: HMSO, 1992. ISBN 0 11 290445 9 *--------------------------------------------------------------------* * Robyyan Torr d'Elandris Kapellenberg, Windmaster's Hill Atlantia * *--------------------------------------------------------------------* * Dennis R. Sherman Triangle Research Libraries Network * * dennis_sherman at unc.edu Univ. of North Carolina - Chapel Hill * *--------------------------------------------------------------------* Newsgroups: rec.org.sca From: sherman at trln.lib.unc.edu (dennis r. sherman) Subject: Re: Buttons Organization: Triangle Research Libraries Network Date: Sat, 10 Apr 1993 22:22:09 GMT Philippa d'Ecosse writes: >I'm not all that good at tying bows with my teeth, I wondered if >some sort of button might be acceptably period. Geoff Egan and Frances Pritchard, _Dress Accessories c.1150-c.1450, Medieval Finds from Excavations in London vol.3_, London: HMSO, 1991. ISBN 0 11 29044 0 Find this book!!! Available from HMSO bookshops, but you have to call London to order, and its the most expensive paperback book I've ever bought. If you want to call -- country code + 071-873-9090, I think its a 24 hour order line. Note from the title that this book deals with London in a restricted range of years -- that doesn't mean other times and places didn't use similar stuff, but you can't prove it from this source. Brief notes from chapter on buttons: - buttons probably came into common use in England and Europe in the early 13th century - excavated buttons generally fall in three categories: *cast, usually solid lead/tin with integral shanks, or bronze with embedded wire shanks *composite sheeting, made of two stamped pieces of copper alloy soldered together and wire shank soldered in place *cloth, bunch of scrap cloth sewn into ball - buttons vary in size from 8mm to 15.5mm diameter for the metal, 4mm-6mm for round cloth, 14mm-35mm for loose, flat cloth, which may have had a stiffener inside -- Robyyan Torr d'Elandris Kapellenberg, Windmaster's Hill Atlantia -------------------------------------- Dennis R. Sherman Triangle Research Libraries Network dennis_sherman at unc.edu Univ. of North Carolina - Chapel Hill From: nsmca at aurora.alaska.edu Newsgroups: soc.culture.celtic,rec.org.sca Subject: Re: Instructions for ancient kilt - feileadh mor Date: 21 Jul 93 08:11:13 GMT Organization: University of Alaska Fairbanks In article <1993Jul21.022229.3213 at cujo.curtin.edu.au>, Andy Weir <NWEIRANDY at cc.curtin.edu.au> writes: > In article <1992Aug12.223147.18550 at access.usask.ca> Hugh > Goldie, goldie at herald.usask.ca writes: >>Please send instructions for folding and wearing the Great > Scottish Kilt or >>feileadh-mor. As I understand it, this was a large piece of > tartan or >>other cloth, folded in pleats and worn about the body, with > only a belt used > > I saw a segment on this in a documentary about a year ago or > so ago. Sorry I can't remember what it was called or whether > it was just a 5-10 minute filler between shows. Someone has > already described how it is put on which is exactly how I > remember it from the TV. It could have been the fairly recent > documentary on Scottish migration shown in OZ in the past 12 > months which in the main covered migration to the USA. > > I hope someone else may have seen it and can put you on to it. > > Andy Weir/Wier/Weer/Vere . . . . . Might check out "The Clans of the Scottish Highlands" atleast for examples.. Author is RR. McIan, forward by Antonia Fraser.... The original book was doen c.1845/47.. ISBN: 0 907486 38 X From Webb&Bower (Publications) Ltd. Or Chancellor Press, 49 Grosvenor Stree, London W1. Not sure of any other books right now, but my library is in storage for now.. Just to large for my apartment. ====== Ghost Wheel - NSMCA at acad3.alaska.edu From: g_duperault at venus.twu.edu Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: costume biblio--LONG! Date: 29 Nov 93 17:11:33 +600 Organization: Texas Woman's University Here it is kiddies! Have fun! Avwye ______________________________________________________________________________ _A Bibliography of Costume Sourcebooks_ The following list has been compiled with the intention of providing a list of recently published, and therefore reasonably available , sources for costume and clothing reconstruction. Titles listed with both ISBN and price can be assumed to be in print and available in the US at this time. Additions, changes, etc. should be sent to G_Duperault at venus.twu.edu Permission is given to copy and freely distribute this list in its complete and entire form, which must include this header. No warranty expressed or implied. Your mileage may vary. (c) 1993 D.M.Duperault BOOKS: Ancient Indian Costume, Rosten Alkazi. New Delhi: Art Heritage, 1983. 200p. A history of the costume of India, from earliest civilization to 1200. Illustrated, with maps, index and bibliography. Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd. Janet Arnold. Leeds, England: Maney, 1988. 392p. Illustrated, with bibliography and index. Inventory of a wardr obe taken in 1600. ISBN 0901286206. A Handbook of Costume. Janet Arnold. London: Macmilan, 1973. 336p. Illustrated, with bibliography. ISBN 0333124812. Patterns of Fashion; Englishwomen's dresses and their construction. Janet Arnold. London: Macmillan, 1990. 2 volumes, ill. $30.00. ISBN 0896760278 Patterns of Fashion: The cut and construction of clothes for men and women, c.1560-1620. Janet Arnold. London: Macmillan; New York: Drama Book, 1985. 128p. Illustrated, with bibliography. The history of dressmaking and tailoring of men's clothing. ISBN 089676039. Dress in the Age of Elizabeth I. Jane Ashford. New York: Holmes and Meier, 1988. 159p. ISBN 0841911908. Folk Jewelery of the World. Ger Daniels. Rizzoli. 200p. Heavily illustrated survey of ornaments and traditional dress. $60.00. Kings, Queens, Knights and Jesters: Making medieval costumes, Lynn Edelman Schnurnberger. New York: Harper and Row, 1978. 124p. An illustrated history of costume, aimed at the juvenile audience. $6.95. ISBN 0060252413. Dress Accessories, c1150-c1450. Geoff Egan and Frances Pritchard. London: HMSO, 1991. 421p. Illustrated. Medieval finds from excavations in London. ISBN 0112904440. Dress and Undress: a history of women's underwear. Elizabeth Ewing. New York: Drama Book Specialists, c1978. 191p.: ill. Index. Everyday Dress, 1650-1900: a popular survey, Elizabeth Ewing. Chelsea House Publishers, 1989. Illustrated. $19.95. ISBN 1555467504 History of Children's Costume, Elizabeth Ewing. New York: Scribner, 1977. 191p. Illustrated, with colour plates, index. The Tie: trends and traditions. Sarah Gibbings. Barron's. 160p. An illustrated history of the tie and it's precursors, from the 1600's to today. $ 21.95. The Hat: Trends and traditions. Madeline Ginsburg. Hauppage, NY: Barron's, 1990. 160p: ill. After a fashion: How to reproduce, restore, and wear vintage styles. Francis Grimble. San Francisco: Lavolta Press, 1993. 352p. Line drawings. $35.00 ISBN 0963651706 Covers clothing styles from medieval to modern. Ancient Danish Textiles from Bogs and Burials: a comparitive study of costume and iron age textiles. Margarethe Hald. Copenhagen: National Museum of Denmark, 1980. 398p. Illustrated, with maps. Covers the textiles and costumes of prehistoric Denmark. Renaissance Dress in Italy 1400-1500. Jacqueline Herald. London: Bell and Hyman; Atlantic Highlands, N., 1981. 256p. An illustrated history of costume in art during the Italian Renaissance. Costume Construction. Katherine Strand Holkeboer. Englewood Cliifs,NJ: Prentice Hall, 1989. 232p. Index and bibliography. Costuming and costume design. ISBN 0131812076. $29.00. Patterns for Theatrical Costumes: garments, trims, and accessories from ancient Egypt to 1915. Katherine Strand Holkeboer. Englewood Cliffs, NJ: Prentice-Hall, c1993. 352p: ill. Index and bibliography. $29.95 ISBN 0136542603 paperbound. Patterns for Women's Dress 1500-1800. Jean Hunnisett. London: Bell & Hyman, 1986. The Costume Designers Handbook: a complete guide for the amateur and profess ional costume designers. Rosemary Ingham. 2nd ed. Portsmouth, NH: Heinemann, 1992. 286p. Costumers Handbook. Rosemary Ingham and Elizabeth Covey. Englewood Cliffs, NJ: Prentice Hall, 1980. Put Your Foot Down: a treatise on the history of shoes. Florence E. Ledger. Meksham, Wiltshire, U.K.: C. Venton, 1985. 214p. An illustrated history of shoes. ISBN 0854751114. 900 Years of English Costume: from 11th to 20th century, Nancy Margetts. New York: Crescent Books, 1987. 200p. Includes bibliography and index. ISBN 051761670X. The Duchess of Devonshire's Ball. Sophia Murphy. London: Sidgwick and Jacson, 1984. 176p. Illustrated, with bibliography and index. 18th century costume balls and parties. ISBN 0283989882. Historical Costumes of Turkish Women. Nisantasi, Istanbul: Middle East Video Corp., 1986. 175p. Mostly colour illustrations, some maps, bibliography. $100. Fashion in the Age of the Black Prince: a study of the years 1340-65. Stella Mary Newton. Woodbridge: Boydell Press; Totowa, NJ: Rowman and Littlefield, 1980. 157p. Index and bibliography. ISBN 0847669394. Costume: a general bibliography. Anthony Pegaret and Janet Arnold. 2nd ed. London: Costume Society, Department of Textiles, Victoria and Albert Museum, 1974. 42p. ISBN 090340706X. The Historical Encyclopedia of Costumes. Albert Racinet. New York, NY: Facts on File, 1988. 320p. lithographic illus.; translation and abridgement of Le Costume Historique. Index. $45.00 Period Style for the Theatre. Douglas A. Russell. 2nd ed. Boston: Allyn and Bacon, 1987. 375p. Illustrated, with bibliography and index. History of Western costume and it's applications in theatre and acting. ISBN 0205104886. Late Gothic Europe, 1400-1500. Margaret Scott. London: Mills and Boon, Atlantic Highlands, N., 1980. 256p. An illustrated history of European costume in the 15th century. History of Men's Costume, Marion Sichel. Chelsea House Publishers, 1989. $14.95. ISBN 1555467555. History of Women's Costume, Marion Sichel. Chelsea House Publishers, 1989. $14.95 ISBN 1555467563. Costume Reference: Roman Britain and the Middle Ages. Marion Sichel. London: Batsford, 1977. Costume Reference: Tudors and Elizabethans. Marion Sichel. London: Batsford, 1977. Costume Reference: Jacobean, Stuart and Restoration. Marion Sichel. London: Batsford. 1977. Ancient Costumes of England, from druids to Tudors, Charles Hamilton Smith. New York: Arch Cape Press, 1989. Drawings. ISBN 0517678829. Textiles From Medieval Egypt, A.D. 300-1300. Thelma K. Thomas. Pittsburg, PA: Carnegie Museum of Natural History, 1990. 66p. Illustrated, with bibliography Covers the costumes and textiles of medieval egypt. ISBN 0911239200. A Survey of Historic Costume. Phyllis Tortora and Keith Eubank. New York: Fairchild Publications, 1989. 361p. : ill. Bibliography. ISBN 0870056328 Costume Patterns and Designs. Max Tilke. New York: Rizzoli, 1990. 49p. 128 leaves of plates. Translation of Kostumschnitte und Gewandformen. $35.00 ISBN 084781209X L'Encyclopedie de Costume. Max Tilke. New York, NY: French and European Publications, Inc., 1973. $250.00 ISBN 0828862877 Elizabethan Costuming. Janet Winter and Carolyn Savoy. Oakland, CA: Other Times Publications, 1991. $15.00 ISBN 0963022008 European Costume: 4000 years of fashion. Doreen Yarwood. New York: Bonanza Books, Crown Publishers, 1982. 312p. An illustrated history of European costume. With index and bibliography. Costume of the Western World: a pictoral guide and glossary. Doreen Yarwood. New York: St. Martins Press, 1980. 192p: ill. Bibliography. Of His Array Telle I No Longer Tale: aspects of costume, arms, and armour in Western Europe, 1200-1400. H.M. Zijlstra-Zweens. Amsterdam: Rodopi, 1988. Illustrated, with index and bibliography. Text in English, Dutch and German. Covers medieval clothing, social life, and customs between 500 and 1500. ISBN 9051830254. OTHER MEDIA: National Types and Costumes: with explanatory text. [Microfilm.] London: F. Bruckman. 32p. Illustrated history of costume photography in the 1880's. Visual Catalogue of Fashion and Costume in the Victoria and Albert Museum. [Microform] Photos by Philip Metcalf. Haslemere, Surrey: Emmett Microform, 1981. 57 microfiches. Index. Pictoral history of items in the Victoria and Albert collection, with historical and informational notes. #1 in the Fashion, Costume, and Uniform series. Costume: The journal of the Costume Society. Costume Society, Victoria and Albert Museum. Published annually. Bibliography of Sourcebooks for Historical Costume Construction From: jab2 at stl.stc.co.uk (Jennifer Ann Bray) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: 14th C textiles & clothing book Date: 11 Jan 94 15:30:14 Organization: STC Technology Ltd., London Road, Harlow, UK. I just got a book that might interest someone else out there: Medieval finds from excavations in London: 4 Textiles and Clothing c.1150 - c.1450 Elizabeth Crowfoot, Frances Pritchard and Kay Staniland Published HMSO 1992 copyright of the Board of Governors of the Museum of London ISBN 0 11 290445 9 Price 29.95 pounds sterling Most of the stuff is fourteenth century, though as the books title says the range is from c.1150-c.1450 The book begins with details of sources and where the textiles were found, then there is a short chapter on techniques used in textile production. This has some very dodgy looking drawings of looms, there seems to be no wat to move the beaters on them, either They've missed something or medieval looms were wierder than I thought. Then the book goes into details on weaves and structures with chapters on wool, goathair, linen, silk and mixed cloths. The wool chapter even includes a couple of pages on knitting and one on felt. The chapter on silk is a masterpiece of deduction, by hunting around ancient silks the authors have reproduced patterns of whole pieces of cloth from tiny scraps and offcuts. A whole chapter is devoted to narrow wares including tablet woven braids, fingerloop braids, plaited braids, garters and hairnets. This was my favourite, as I'm a tablet weaving freak, there was a good description of a method of sewing braid onto edges by simultaneously weaving and sewing, using the weft of the braid as the sewing thread. I'm dying to find something to try this out on. There is also a chapter on sewing with lots of detail on stuff like how seams were sewn, how cloth buttons were made, how the buttonholes were stitched, how to edge necks you name it, it's there. Anyone like me who spends hours fiddling about with fiddle about with period details that hardly anyone appreciates will love this section. There is not so much on patterns of clothing as mostly the stuff found was very fragmentary, but there are pictures of hoods and hose that are complete enough to work out a pattern from. There is also a well preserved buttoned sleeve which might interest someone with a masochistic inclination to make buttonholes by the dozen! The illustrations are great with lots of colour plates and close ups, so you can see every detail of the textiles. The text puts everything into context and cites just about every other relevant find there is. This is definately not a beginners book, and it's quite expensive, but if you're looking for something to add to a 14th century English costume and you've run out of sources, this is the book for you. I don't even do 14th century stuff and I got it anyway, I can never resist a good book on textiles, maybe that's why I never have enough money left over to buy the bookshelves I need to put them all on! Jennifer Vanaheim Vikings Newsgroups: rec.org.sca From: proberts at castle.ed.ac.uk (P Roberts) Subject: Re: 14th C textiles & clothing book Organization: Edinburgh University Date: Tue, 11 Jan 1994 18:42:57 GMT Jennifer mentioned a book she has just bought: > Medieval finds from excavations in London: 4 > Textiles and Clothing c.1150 - c.1450 > Elizabeth Crowfoot, Frances Pritchard and Kay Staniland > Published HMSO 1992 > copyright of the Board of Governors of the Museum of London > ISBN 0 11 290445 9 > Price 29.95 pounds sterling There are three other books in this set (hence the "4" in the title): Knives and Scabbards; Shoes and Patterns; and (I think) Dress Accessories. They are all published by HMSO but I'm afraid I don't have further details to hand. Speaking from memory, I think the Textiles and Clothing volume is the most expensive of the set. Edward From: huff at bronze.lcs.mit.EDU (Robert Huff) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: 14th C textiles & clothing book Date: 13 Jan 1994 22:42:48 -0500 Organization: The Internet Ave! When this series was discussed many months ago, someone claimed that a Canadian entity - I believe it was the Univ. of Toronto Press - had either distribution rights for North America, or reprint rights. Diego Mundoz Carolingia From: sclark at epas.utoronto.ca (Susan Clark) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: Need references for early 14c man's clothing. Date: 14 Feb 1994 21:45:11 GMT Organization: EPAS Computing Facility, University of Toronto Greetings.... I highly recommend _Fashion in the Age of the Black Prince_ by Stella Mary Newton (Woodbrige-Boydell, Rowman, Little field, 1980, ISBN 0-8476-6939-4). This is mostly late 14th century, but it is excellent. You're not going to get much on hoppelandes here, but it will give you an overview of the late 14th century innovations. Surviving patterns from this period are nonexistant. There are a few surviving pieces here and there, but they are rare. If you want a pre-drafted pattern, the Period Patterns for cotehardies and houppelandes aren't too bad. Cheers-- Nicolaa/Susan Canton of Eoforwic sclark at epas.utoronto.ca Newsgroups: rec.org.sca From: foxd at silver.ucs.indiana.edu (daniel fox) Subject: New Costume references Organization: Indiana University, Bloomington IN Date: Tue, 13 Sep 1994 10:05:07 GMT Spreading word about sources and reference books is my mission in the SCA, so here are some I've come across recently: Hansen, Henny Harald. Mongol Costumes. Thames and Hudson. London and NYC:1993. ISBN:0500015856 If you're familiar with the edition printed in 1950 you'll probably want to look this one up anyway. The book has been entirely re-organized and the original pictures have been supplemented by large full color photographs of the garments-- some of them on mannequins. The latter give you a good feel for the hang of the clothing, and for the way the various pieces are put together. If you aren't familiar with it this is a catalog of garments dating from the first third of the 20th century. It includes diagrams and detail sketches, as well as general commentary. For documentation puropses this book is best used as cross- reference to SCA period sources--such few that exist. However, in the absence of those sources, this book is very valuable. Weidtz, Christoph. Authentic Everyday Dress of the Rennaissance: All 154 Plates from the "Trachtenbuch". Dover. New York:1994. Trachtenbuch was orginally printed about 1530. It's a collection of sketches from the artists sojourn in Spain (and some from side- excursions elsewhere in Europe.) Interpretation isn't always easy for the seamstress, but there are costumes from many walks of life--including peasant, middle-class and some occupational garb. It's a good primary source. Dunlevy, Mairead. Dress in Ireland. Holmes and Meier. New York:1989. ISBN: 0-8419-1269-8 Good coverage of period material. Chapters on Medieval and 16th century differeintiates between the fashions of the English in Ireland and the Irish themselves, and between wealthy and poor. Good reproductions of previously published sources and some new matierial as well. Campbell, Louise. Renaissance Portraits:European Portrait Paining in the 14th, 15th and 16th Century. Yale University. New Haven and London:1990. ISBN 0-300-04675 Excellent source for reproductions. Includes many old friends and many rarely reproduced ones. Text is fascinating--Campbell is attempting to dispell the modern predjudice against portraiture as an art form, by showing the methods the have used to shape the viewer's impression of the sitter. (BTW this book was listed as still being in print as of June '94....) Comments welcomed.... Mistress Audelindis de Rheims, OL OW From: odlin at reed.edu (Iain Odlin) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: Janet Arnold Date: 8 Dec 1994 07:19:46 GMT Organization: The Stuffed Animal Trauma Team (We're Trained Professionals) If you're going to be using Arnold's book to create garb, I *highly* recommend locating a copy of "The Annotated Arnold" as well. It deals (very well) with a number of (very stupid) errors in Ms Arnold's"re- constructions". Last I checked, it was available from a company called "Raiments" who advertises on occasion in TI. -- ------------------------- Iain Odlin, odlin at reed.edu ------------------------- 42 Clifton Street, Portland ME 04101 From: foxd at silver.ucs.indiana.edu (daniel fox) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: Costuming Date: 9 Dec 1994 05:32:20 GMT Organization: Indiana University, Bloomington There are two good books on the period, neither of them include much in the way of existing examples, since there are none, but they do use primary sources: Herald, Jacqueline, Rennaisance Dress in Italy, 1400-1500. Humanities Press, 1981. This book is out of print. Birbari, Elizabeth. Dress in Italian Painting 1460-1500. Murray, 1975. Also oop. Also try the following books in Italian (the pictures are good.) Levi-Pisetsky, Rosa. Storia del Costume in Italia. Vol. 2 and 3. I Instituto Editoriale Italiano, 1965-69. Bentivegna, F. C. _Abbigliamento E Costume Nella Pittura Italiana_ Volume 1. Bestiti:? I hope these help. Audelindis de Rheims From: dduperault at aol.com (DDuperault) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: Costuming Date: 15 Dec 1994 11:50:11 -0500 foxd at silver.ucs.indiana.edu (daniel fox) writes: > However, I have never seen another book showing Italian Ren. >clothing still intact. Are there any out there? If so, how can I >find it. Any info. would be appreciated Look for _Lives of the Courtesans_. Published in the late '80's. Beautiful pictures and decent text. With details of some of the garments. Sorry I don't recall the author or publisher. I'm sure there are people here who do.. Avwye From: Rick Gaigneur <rgaigneu at unb.ca> Newsgroups: alt.sewing,rec.org.sca Subject: Re: costume patterns Date: Tue, 14 Feb 1995 09:06:43 -0400 Organization: University of New Brunswick Hi! For those of you interested in the Patterns for Theatrical Costumes book, here is the most up-to-date information I have on it (thanks to having Books in Print on CD-ROM on this computer. Just a joyous thing to have, by the way!): Patterns for Theatrical Costume 02/1993 Drama Book Publishers Katherine S. Holbeboer illus. Trade Cloth ISBN 0-89676-125-8 352p. $ 29.95 US Publisher: Drama Book Publishers 260 Fifth Avenue, New York, NY, 10001, US Phone: 212-725-5377 Fax: 212-725-8506 This information was in the most recent (January 1995) update of Global Books in Print, so it's definitely still available. Drama Publishers also has a UK office, so it's available there too. >AETHERIC LINDEBERENDE< >Rick Gaigneur< >Shire of Lyndhaven< Newsgroups: rec.org.sca From: cathal at netcom.com (James Pratt) Subject: Re: costume help - female celt Date: Thu, 23 Feb 1995 03:06:58 GMT : Good Milady: : The best reference (IMHO) for Celtic (sic) costume : is: : OLD IRISH AND HIGHLAND DRESS : by H.F. McClintock : Dundalgan Press, Dundalk, 1943. : Most major University libraries should have it our your local : can get it for you through ILL. : Cathal Mac Edan : Barony of the South Downs, Meridies. From: henrys at icicle.winternet.COM (The Henry's) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Book on researching and recreating historical costumes Date: 22 Mar 1995 16:59:15 -0500 This review is being posted with the permission of its author, Danine Cozzens. *-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-* l Rosanore of Redthorn (Susan Guthmann Henry) Member #8769 since 1976 l * henrys at winternet.com * l l * "Every status quo is a prison house of the spirit." * l --Henry Nelson Wyman l *-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-* ---------- Forwarded message ---------- After a Fashion - Book Review Frances Grimble recently posted that her new book, _After a Fashion_, was available by mail for $35. I was probably one of the first to receive a copy, and thought folks on this group would appreciate a more detailed description before sending for the book sight unseen. If you have subscribed to this group, you will probably want to buy this book. It is so well targeted to living history reenactors that someone living in utter isolation, with only this book and the appropriate patterns or costume diagrams in hand, could outfit themselves respectably for a major historical event. Frances Grimble has had national exposure as an expert on vintage fashion with her articles in _Threads_ and _Vintage Fashions_; this book should establish her as an authority on historic costume construction as well. _After A Fashion_ is almost five books in one: It's a survey of historic costume, a costume planner, a book of period sewing techniques, a guide to vintage fashions, and a costuming resource list. The first chapter (57 pages) describes "garb" for the most popular reenactment eras: Medieval [12th, 13th and 14th centuries each described separately], Elizabethan, American Revolutionary, English Regency, Civil War, Gay Nineties, Ragtime, and Art Deco. These overviews give a good sense of what upper-class men and women wore, and whether you or your significant other would want to be seen in it. Chapter 2 deals with planning your outfit. There are numerous practical hints on planning your costuming project, including a catchall list of everything you need to pack for any event in any period, from "Paltock/pourpoint/cotehardie/double/coat/jacket" to "Bag/pouch/pockets/purse." The list consumes an entire page; no wonder it takes so long to get dressed for an event! Other sections tell how to hire a dressmaker, how to overcome budget limitations, and how to buy by mail. I loved the "historical mix and match" Civil War weekend wardrobe, based on separate day and evening tops for the same skirt-- as practical now as it was at the time. Chapters 3 and 4 address construction techniques. The instructions are so complete that the financially challenged could well purchase this book instead of a conventional sewing encyclopedia. The numerous line drawings by Deborah Kuhn, who illustrated the original Folkwear patterns, show what you need to know at a glance. A one-page analysis of a Regency shirt conveys the principle of geometric garment construction shown in _Cut My Cote_. Another example shows how a Civil War skirt was "leveled" at the waist after applying the copious ornamentation to the hem. Chapters 5, 6 and 7 cover buying vintage clothes, mending garments, and altering them. Fran explains the need for preservation of old and truly unique garments, and shows how one can incorporate parts of dying dresses into new costumes, or replace worn portions, such as underarms. The altering and mending hints would also help transform stage or thrift shop finds into something "peri-oid" that could be worn at less rigorous historic events, or let you rescue a tired costume of your own. The book ends with twenty-five pages of annotated bibliography cover books, book dealers, and periodicals; supplies for reproduction and restoration; reproduction clothes, accessories and weapons; vintage clothes and accessories; and the organizations who put on events where you can wear all these duds. Each entry has a short description. And it is cross-referenced for easy locating. _After A Fashion_ is beautifully laid out, clearly written, and professionally printed. The big (8-1/2" by 11"), thick (over 300 pages) format boasts a slick cover whose ink won't come off on your hand. Since Fran is a dancer, most of the couples are shown in dance positions, a good reminder that our ultimate goal as historic costumers is to make a believable appearance at period events (and to have a wonderful time!). _After a Fashion_ can be mail ordered from: Lavolta Press 20 Meadowbrook Drive San Francisco, CA 94132 The price is $35 (plus sales tax for CA residents) plus $3.50 shipping. Danine Cozzens Internet: dgc3 at pge.com (I will be happy to respond to further inquiries individually or in subsequent postings.) From: odlin at reed.edu (Iain Odlin) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: Designs for Cavalier Clothes Date: 10 Jun 1995 15:40:12 GMT Susanna Richardson <70357.3331 at CompuServe.COM> wrote: >The 'Annotated Arnold' has been discussed a number of times by >costumers, and there is a consensus that the author had a serious >axe to grind. Yes, the author did. In a word: so? That doesn't mean the points made in the "Annotated Arnold" are wrong. Have you, my lady, ever read it? >Ms. Arnold is a respected expert in her field, she has published >a great many articles, and outside that one ... publication, I >have never seen her conclusions called into question. Ms. Arnold is without question a wonderful conservator and curator, but a seamstress she is not. The errors she makes in "Patterns of Fashion" are numerous, easily verified, and some of these mistakes make reproducing the garments as she describes them impossible. The two easiest examples of egregious error are seen on page 5 (the hanging sleeve) and pages 112 and 113 (the 'Pair of bodies' or corset). I won't go into detail, but I suggest cutting out both these patterns in muslin and trying to put them together. You'll soon find that the sleeve is impossible (I spent hours on it, since I believed, at that point, that Arnold was perfect), and that the corset is unwearable (and ends up looking more like a Rocky Horror costume piece than an Elizabethan anything). >-just my two cents worth on the subject of Arnold, whose books I >always recommend along with Jean Hunnisett. I'm not saying "Patterns of Fashion" is without merit (which would be incredibly stupid -- there's a lot of good stuff here). I am simply observing that Arnold makes many errors, and all the ones I've run into while trying to make some of the clothes therein are addressed in "The Annotated Arnold". It is therefore worth the time of anyone who is making clothes from Arnold's book to read though it. -- ------------------------- Iain Odlin, odlin at reed.edu ------------------------- 42 Clifton Street, Portland ME 04101 From: sclark at blues.epas.utoronto.ca (Susan Carroll-Clark) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: Definative books on medieval garb? Date: 27 Mar 1995 03:04:03 GMT Organization: University of Toronto -- EPAS Greetings! There is no ONE definative book on medieval garb. Why?? Because the medieval part of the SCA is about 800 years long, with 200 or so of the Renaissance tacked on. Can anyone name a single history book which is the "definative history" of this very long period? (rhetorical question!!!) There are definative books for specific periods (for instance, Janet Arnold's _Patterns of Fashion_ for the late 16th century; Stella Mary Newton's -Fashion in the Age of the Black Prince_ for the 14th century, and so on. And there are also good overviews with lots of pictures, such as the big fat Davenport book whose name escapes me at the moment. However, there are a number of periods that don't have a "definative book" --my own (13th century) is a good example. Theree are some books that cover it well--but you can't really understand the period until you've read all the books AND ppored over illuminations, paintings, and statuary--and you're still just guessing in many instances. Cheers! Nicolaa/Susan Canton of Eoforwic sclark at epas.utoronto.ca From: sniderm at mcmail2.cis.McMaster.CA (Mike Snider) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: Definative books on medieval garb? Date: 27 Mar 1995 21:38:00 -0500 Organization: McMaster University, Hamilton, Ontario, Canada. Greetings, I am certain you will get a flood of postings on this one, but I will add a few good books to Nicolaa's. Jeanne D'Arc Ses Costumes, Son Armure by Adrien Harmand is an excellent source for costumes of the 1400s. Unfortunatly it is in French, but has many useful pictures. The Museum of London: Textiles and Clothing. This covers English clothing from 1150-1450 and is very detailed and informative. Actualy, The Shoes and Pattens book in the same series might also come in handy. Good luck with your project. Elizabeth Cadfan From: foxd at silver.ucs.indiana.edu (daniel fox) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: Suggestions for books dealing with Ren. Italy. Date: 22 Mar 1996 05:44:40 GMT Organization: Indiana University, Bloomington I found a wonderful book in the costume section of IU library: Newton, Stella Mary. Dress of the Venetians, 1490-1520. It's not just a study of costume, but also a study of clothing in relation to politics, and social order. She uses important primary sources, such as Sanudo's Diaries for her research. It's very well done, and very funny in places.... Audelindis de Rheims From: pat at lalaw.lib.CA.US (Pat Lammerts) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: costume book citations (was I need help...) Date: 27 Nov 1995 16:17:11 -0500 CaitlynMK wrote: > >>Newton, Stella Mary. _Fashion in the Age of the Black Prince_ >>1980, Boydell Press. {covers the years 1340-1365} >> >>Crowfoot, Elisabeth, et al. _Textiles and Clothing; Medieval finds >>from Excavations in London_ (Museum of London). 1992, HMSO >> >Greetings from the Outlands, Baroyn of Caerthe. Do you by any chance >have the ISBN nos for these books. I would love to get a look at them. >Thanks > >CaitlynMK Here is what you asked for. I hope it is of help. Newton, Stella Mary. Fashion in the age of the Black Prince : a study of the years 1340-1365 / Stella Mary Newton. -- Woodbridge : Boydell Press ; Totowa, N.J. : Rowman & Littlefield, 1980. vi, 151 p., [1] leaf of plates : ill. (some col.) ; 29 cm. ISBN 0847669394 (Rowman & Littlefield.) L15.00 LCCN: 81111912 Crowfoot, Elisabeth. Textiles and clothing : c.1150-c.1450 / Elisabeth Crowfoot, Frances Pritchard, and Kay Staniland ; photography by Edwin Baker ; illustrations by Christina Unwin. -- London : HMSO, c1992. x, 223 p. : ill. (some col.) ; 25 cm. -- (Medieval finds from excavations in London ; 4) Series: Museum of London. Medieval finds from excavations in London; 4. ISBN 0112904459 Huette From: gileshill at aol.com (Gileshill) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Truly Worthwhile Later-Period Costume Resource Date: 21 May 1996 11:03:41 -0400 My friends: I have just purchased (well, Louise and I split it) an incredible book called "Dynasties, Painting in Tudor and Jacobean England, 1530-1630" edited by Karen Hearn, ISBN 0-8478-1940-X, published by Rizzoli. Cost $60.00, and worth every penny. It's 267 pages of FULL COLOUR protrait reproductions, with expert commentary on the clothing, architecture, flora and fauna, and sitters. I strongly recommend you put this on your birthday wish lists, your suggested prize for competitions, or just go out and buy it; you won't be disappointed. Giles From: LIB_IMC at centum.utulsa.edu To: ansteorra at eden.com Date: Wed, 5 Jun 1996 10:28:33 -0500 (CDT) Subject: Re: Survey (was Castellan) <Antoine D'Aubernoun<"\"Randy Shipp\"" <rshipp at molly.hsc.unt.edu>> >My persona is 1280 Norman. Know where I can get patterns or pictures? Yes. I'm going to suggest some sources that are, er, not pristine pure from an academic standpoint, but if you are careful, will help you out a lot. The first is "Patterns for theatrical costumes" by Katherine Holkeboer. She also has one called "Costume Construction", but I haven't actually read it. If nothing else, this is a good way to see how these things can be pieced together, even if the patterns aren't always absolutely correct (as with making shoes, sometimes you just have to take the knowledge you have on hand, and make a blind guess as to a pattern). I'm about to make a suggestion that will likely get me sneered at, and I'll expain why in a minute. See if you can find a series of books called "Costume and Fashion" by Herbert Norris. Many people don't care for this set of books (even though his material on Ecclesastical Costume is, I believe, a standard text in that area). He doesn't cite his sources and there *are* accusations that he makes things up at times (although I have yet to see anyone offer examples or citations to support the accusation). Keep these in mind when you read the books, and be a little cautious (it's sort of like eating cheese that's got moldy bits -- you can easily just throw out the whole thing, but if you are careful, most of it's still perfectly good :) ). You will notice that I do use him in my Shoe document, and I also will try and supplement that where I can with other, more reliable material. These should get you past the initial "Ok, so how do I do this?" stage. Later, you can progress onto the inner mysteries of costuming (or so my wife tells me :) ). Diarmuit From: Laura McKinstry <dalm at why.net> Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: Period costume patterns?This was from the wrong account Date: Fri, 12 Jul 1996 11:16:47 -0400 For the Elizabethan period, I don't think you can beat "Elizabethan Costuming for the years 1550-1580" by Janet Winter and Carolyn Savoy. ISBN 0-9630220-0-8. $15 This will put you in England or Ireland during the reign of Elizabeth Tudor. Possibly other coutnries, but as an Irishwoman, I didn't research that far. The drawings are clear, and they not only show you what the finished product looks like, but also the shapes of the patterns you need to cut out to create the finished product. It's black and white. Men's, women's, children's clothing, headwear, jewelry, cloaks, underpinnings (corsets, bumroll, etc.,) sleeves, hairstyles, ruffs, hose, and some background on the whole thing. I picked up my copy of this book at an EXCELLENT bookshop at a medieval faire. It might be available through the SCA as well. -------------------------------------------------- Laura McKinstry aka Lark of Cire Freunlaven Dallas, TX harper From: foxd at silver.ucs.indiana.edu (daniel fox) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: Sources for 11th cent. English clothing? Date: 24 Jul 1996 04:41:30 GMT Organization: Indiana University, Bloomington Cunnington, C. Willet and Phyllis, _Handbook of English Costume in the Middle Ages_. Faber and Faber: 1968. (There are several editions and publishers. Owen-Crocker, Gale R. _Dress in Anglo-Saxon England_. Manchester University Press. Manchester, UK: 1986. These are both out of print--or at least Owen-Crocker is, the Cunnington goes in and out regularly. But you should be able to get hold of them via ILL. Audelindis de Rheims From: sclark at chass.utoronto.ca (Susan Carroll-Clark) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: Italian Rennaisance Costume Date: 25 Jul 1996 11:43:57 -0400 Organization: University of Toronto -- EPAS Audelindis said, >Oh, and the book in question is Winters _Elizabethan Costuming: 1580-1600_ >(or as close as I can recall the title not having it in front of me.) >It is a book on how to do quick and easy elizabethan--a concept which I >find a contradiction in terms. I never found Winters as bad as many people have claimed it is--so long as you realize its limitations, chief of which is its advice on fitting female corsets/bodices. For lower-class or middle class stuff, it's acceptable, and the advice it provides on hats and head coverings is not too bad. I'd _never_ use it for documentation--not when there are fabulous books like _Patterns of Fashion_ out there. I think the problem is that it looks so comprehensive that people assume that it must be accurate as well. Like many other books of this type, I think it started its life as a guide to making acceptable RenFaire clothing and has been taken as Gospel by people who have mistaken the authors' original intention. Cheers! Nicolaa de Bracton sclark at chass.utoronto.ca From: foxd at silver.ucs.indiana.edu (daniel fox) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: Italian Rennaisance Costume Date: 25 Jul 1996 03:52:16 GMT Organization: Indiana University, Bloomington If we're talking about _Patterns of Fashion 1560-1620_ there is very little English costume in the book. She does pattern the bodice of the gown Eleanore of Toledo--wife of Cosimo de Medici--was wearing when she was buried. Since Eleanor's black and white brocaded gown is the usually the dress that people refer to most often for mid-16th century Italian it's the best reference I've seen. Audelindis de Rheims From: Diana Habra <dch at inreach.com> Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: Desperately seeking cotehardie pattern Date: Fri, 22 Nov 1996 05:39:25 -0800 However, since I > have seen the Jean Hunnisett version of the Greenland Dress ("Period > Costume for Stage and Screen: Patterns for Women's Dress, Medieval-1500"), > I disagree, since they look very similiar. So this should be a pretty > good version. > > Eleanor Courtenay Please be cautious about taking Jean Hunnisett as gospel. While I agree that her late period costuming is about spot on, her early patterns leave much to be researched. I am not saying she is totally wrong, I am merely stating that she does patterns to LOOK good on stage and screen. You would be better off to go to actual sources like photos of preserved clothing (i.e. dresses found in bogs/marshes) or paintings where seam lines can be seen. This type of research on costume will earn you more brownie points with the Laurels of your area. Just a costumer who lives for research.... Lady Roseline d'Anjou Kingdom of the West From: cromabu at aol.com Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: Desperately seeking cotehardie pattern Date: 23 Nov 1996 09:55:47 GMT Keep in mind that no matter what style, period, or country you are trying to recreate the mind set and habbits of the people. Even the rich were stingy with their fabric, they didn't like to waste even a scrap.They were not as privlidged as we with these enormas widths we are privlidged to use now a days.This didn't mean that they only had 28" looms (as I have been told).Janet Arnold has real patterns in the back of her books that show how an outfit would be pieced toghter. With the right fabrics you don't even see the pieced seems.Tailor's Pattern Book 1589, pub. by RuthBean Carlton, Bedford 1979, is an excellant way to see how people piced their patterns together. These are all out of your period but they can be helpfull anyway. Cate Date: Tue, 10 Jun 1997 10:02:05 -0400 (EDT) From: Gileshill at aol.com To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu Subject: Re: Requesting book review In a message dated 97-06-10 09:42:54 EDT, you write: > Amazon Dry Goods is offering Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd, by Janet > Arnold, for 139.95. While I greatly respect Janet Arnold, this is a lot of > money for me, and I have not been able to locate a library copy to look > through. Does anyone else have this book? Is it useful for making garb as > well as enlarging my Tudor garb vocabulary--in other words, does it have > good pictures as well as informative text? Thank you for your time, It has great pictures; color, closeups, details. (Of course, they're all girls, dammit!) The text is Ms Arnold's usual exhaustive, documented, original sourced, interesting writing... I recommend it highly. Chapter heads include Portraits of the Queen, Robes of Ceremony, Designs for Jewellery and Embroidery: their Sources and Symoblism, Gifts of Clothing and Jewels, The Pursuit of Fashion, The Wardrobe of Robes, The Queen's Artificers, and Editor's Notes on the Transcripts of the Stowe and Folger Inventories and Extracts from the New Year's Gift rolls, and Warrants from the Wardrobe of Robes. It's well worth the $139. Giles (who won his copy) Date: Wed, 25 Jun 1997 10:27:44 -0400 From: "lwperkins" <lwperkins at snip.net> To: <sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu> Subject: Re: Book Review Succeeds I wish to thank everyone who wrote to me regarding Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd; the book came a few days ago and it is an astonishing book---I learned more reading this book about noblewomen's garb in England from 1560 to 1600 than from all my previous books combined. For anyone who is interested in this period's embroidery , find a copy of this book--it has close-ups of the most intricate blackwork, fabulous beasts, allegorical symbols and just amazing needlework that I've ever seen. There's a complete chapter on how the garb was made, close-ups of stitching and fastenings, pictures of underwear(!). I learned that light colors were fashionable, not just dark ones, that Tudor garb was hot to wear even in period, found a picture of a period "Barbie" doll (an 11-inch fashion doll), and read a ton of juicy gossip. Since I probable wouldn't have ponied up the 130.00 without some outside advice, I'm very grateful to all of you. Yours in service, Ester du Bois lwperkins at snip.net Date: Sun, 29 Jun 1997 11:11:53 From: Sheron Buchele/Curtis Rowland <foxryde at verinet.com> To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu Subject: Re: On Fur Trims Gentle Cousins, There is an excellent book I read many years ago that talked alot about the various furs used in later period. I don't remember the exact title - it was out of the Iowa State University library and I am now (thank the Lord) not there. It was "The Clothing in the Time of the Black Prince" or something like that. It went throught the rolls of the chamberlain and discussed what clothing was worn and given away and the fabric of each (and it is not as dry as it sounds). I remember being struck by the mono-chromatic Christmas's. He would give out many many outfits of one particular color and everyone (who was anyone) in court would wear them to the season's parties. There have been a couple of color specific holiday events here in the Outlands, but I never asked the sponsors if they lifted the idea from the court of the Black Prince (or if this was done in other times and other courts). Anyway, I hope that this book would be helpful to you and I apologize for the vagueness of the cite. Baroness Leonora Date: Sun, 29 Jun 1997 17:35:47 -0400 From: "lwperkins" <lwperkins at snip.net> To: <sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu> Subject: Re: On Fur Trims Baroness Leonora wrote: > There is an excellent book I read many years ago that talked alot about the > various furs used in later period. I don't remember the exact title - it > was out of the Iowa State University library and I am now (thank the Lord) > not there. It was "The Clothing in the Time of the Black Prince" or > something like that. The book I have is "Fashion in the Age of the Black Prince-- A study of the years 1340-1365." by Stella Mary Newton, published by Boydell Press, P.O. Box 9. woodbridge, Suffolk,1p12 3DF, in USA Rowman and Littlefield, 81 Adams Drive, Totowa, New Jersey, 07512 ,ISBN 0-85115-125-6. I have been told that it has been out of print, I got my copy as barter from an individual. It is a fantastic reference book for the period, though it is light on pictures, it has excellent text. --Ester Du Bois lwperkins at snip.net From: Dieterich <cjw at vvm.com> To: ansteorra at Ansteorra.ORG Date: Thu, 07 Aug 1997 11:34:01 -0500 Subject: Re: ANST - 1400's garb >As Janet Arnold is to the Elizabethan world of costuming...is their >someone who "knows" 15th century clothing? > >Kayleigh Drake >Baroness of Bonwicke >The Western Region of Ansteorra ********* Well, at the risk of seeming contrary, the answer is both 'yes' and 'no'. There are two books- both out of print, coincidentally- that I, a 15th C. afficianado, deem to be the Gospels according to the 1400s and both are in the same series- "The History of Fashion" series. The first one concentrates on late-gothic europe and the second concentrates on Italian dress c. 1400-1485. I have, as is my way, forgotten the names of these precious tomes but luckily for you and I, Mistress Jeanmaire owns *both* books and Baroness Clarissa owns the Italian one. I have had them both on the