clothing-books-msg - 12/30/14 Book reviews, bibliographies and pattern sources. NOTE: See also these files: patterns-msg, merch-cloth-lst, clothing-bib, clothing-FAQ, clothing-msg, costuming-lnks, p-sumpt-laws-msg, smptuary-laws-lnks. ************************************************************************ NOTICE - This file is a collection of various messages having a common theme that I have collected from my reading of the various computer networks. Some messages date back to 1989, some may be as recent as yesterday. This file is part of a collection of files called Stefan's Florilegium. These files are available on the Internet at: http://www.florilegium.org I have done a limited amount of editing. Messages having to do with separate topics were sometimes split into different files and sometimes extraneous information was removed. For instance, the message IDs were removed to save space and remove clutter. The comments made in these messages are not necessarily my viewpoints. I make no claims as to the accuracy of the information given by the individual authors. Please respect the time and efforts of those who have written these messages. The copyright status of these messages is unclear at this time. If information is published from these messages, please give credit to the originator(s). Thank you, Mark S. Harris AKA: THLord Stefan li Rous Stefan at florilegium.org ************************************************************************ From: 21464RM%MSU.BITNET at MITVMA.MIT.EDU ("Roseann.Miller") Date: 7 May 90 18:43:18 GMT Greetings to the Rialto, and esp. Elizabeth of Braidwood: I have been experimenting with glovemaking, and have come up with a few reference books you may find useful: Collins, C. Cody. Love of a Glove. New York, Fairchild Publishing, 1949. (has a simple history of gloves, some photos of period gloves from 1500 on, and some quickie hints on leatherworking for gloves) Cummings, Valerie. Gloves. London, Batsford. 1982. (Good historical info, but starts at 1600. Does very briefly cover Elizabethan gloves, and has reproduction of mid-17th-century patterns for gloves) Johnson. Leatherwork. London, C.A. Pearson, 1949. (Leatherworking how-to with instructions for making both lined and unlined leather gloves. The patterns given are not too far off from the ones in Cummings) Smith, F.R. Practical Leatherwork. New York, Pitman. 1946. (Dover took over this one, but I don't know if it's being published anymore. Like Johnson, a modern book but with adaptable patterns and helpful how-tos on construction). There are also extant period gloves to be found in books on period embroidery and costume accessories. There are knitted gloves in pictures and references, knitters on the Net may know of some. Hopefully this information will be helpful. Next project - gloves for archery before the Pennsic! Roxanne of Bloekmedwe : R. Miller Barony of the NorthWoods, Midrealm : Okemos, MI From: gwilym at micor.ocug.on.ca (Bill Sanderson) Date: 15 Oct 90 12:51:32 GMT Organization: M.B. Cormier INC. Greetings again, from Gwilym The book I referred to earlier is: Tartans: Their Art and History, Ann Sutton & Richard Carr, Arco Publishing inc., New York, 1984. In the bibliography the following book is mentioned: History of Highland Dress, J. Telfer Dunbar, Oliver & Boyd and Batson, London, 1962 and 1979. (Some editions have an excellent appendix on "Early Scottish Highland Dyes" by Annette Kok.) Awilda: The lichen dyes which were and are used in the Highlands produce some very bright colours, without mordants. The book referred to above has a colour plate of lichen and vegetable dyed skeins, and the colours while somewhat muted from modern chemical dyes, are quite bright. The interesting thing about this book is that it gives the setts for all of the registered and many of the unregistered clan From: sharpwa!grendal!nam at nosun.west.sun.com (Nicholas Marcelja) Date: 1 Jan 91 22:14:26 GMT Subject: Bibliography for Corset class Tailor's Pattern Book 1589 (facsimile) Juan de Alcega Ruth Bean; Carlton, Bedford 1979 Hispanic Costume 1480-1530 Ruth Matilda Anderson Hispanic Society of America; NY 1979 Patterns of Fashion (1560-1620) Janet Arnold Drama Books; NY 1985 Cut My Cote Dorothy K. Burnham Royal Ontario Museum; 1973 Period Costume for Stage and Screen Jean Hunnisett Bell & Hyman Ltd.; London 1986 The Annotated Arnold R.W. Trump Self-published; 1987 A Simple Doublet & Trunkhose R.W. Trump Self-published; 1987 Corsets and Crinolines Nora Waugh Batsford Books; London 1954 Cut of Women's Clothes (1600-1930) Nora Waugh Faber & Faber, Ltd.: London 1968 Nicholas Marcelja ....sun!nosun!sharpwa!grendal!nam Grendal From: alg at cs.cornell.edu (Anne Louise Gockel) Date: 18 Nov 91 18:27:43 GMT Organization: Cornell Univ. CS Dept, Ithaca NY 14853 2) Are there any sources of historical costuming patterns supplies? Patterns and Supplies: Fall Creek Suttlery P.O. Box 530 Freedom, CA 95019 (408) 728-1888 - $2.00 catalog. Civil War era items and patterns. La Pelleterie P.O. Box 127 Highway 41 Arrow Rock, Missouri 65320 (816) 837-3261 - $3.00 catalog. Coats and cloaks, pre 1840. NE Shutsa Traders P.O. Box 186 Haven, Kansas 67542 (316) 465-3359 - $1.50 catalog. Cal/Mex era and horsegear. JAS Townsend & Son P.O. Box 415 Pierceton, IN 46562 (800) 338-1665 - Hats, cloaks, clasps. Campell's Designs Box 400 Gratz, PA 17030-0400 - $3.00 catalog. ($4.50 in spring 1991?) Patterns from 1776-1945 Carolina Stitches in Time Box 10933 Winston-Salem, N.C. 27108 (919) 764-0790 - Period clothing patterns. Amazon Vinegar & Pickling Works 2218 E. 11th St. Davenport, IA 52803-3760 (319) 322-6800 (800) 798-7979 - orders ONLY and only from the US (319) 322-4003 - fax - $2.00 general catalog, $5 for historical patterns catalog. This is "the mailing list to be on". Historical patterns selected from Folkwear, midiaeval Miscellanea, early western, victorian, hoop-gown era, Past Patterns, Attic Copies (1920's to 40's), Prairie Clothing, amish, kilts, ethnic and dance. Past Patterns P.O. Box 7587 Grand Rapids, Michigan 49510 (616) 245-9456 - $3.00 catalog. Good selection of early 20th century clothing. Mediaeval Miscellanea 7006 Raleigh Road Annandale, VA 22003 - What else? Midieaval patterns (think Robin Hood :-). Folkwear The Taunton Press 63 South Main St, Box 5506 Newtown, CT 06470-5506 - Only some of the original patterns have been reprinted, but Tauton is reprinting others regularly. Mostly Victorian and Early American patterns. G-Street Fabrics 11854 Rockville Pike Rockville, Md 20852 (301) 231-8998 Fair Winds Pattern Co. 819 N. June St. Hollywood, CA 90038. - Send $1 for small brouchure featuring six patterns. Very nice 1920's jazz dress, Princess Bride-style wedding gown, a couple of nice casual, day-wear 1920's dresses. One ho-hum 1940's dress. R.L.Shep. Box 668 Mendocino, CA 95460. - 1990-91 catalog has 1000 items. $2.50 cataog. Books, magazines and reprints. Books related to the costume and textile arts, including out of print and hard to find books. Shep has also reprinted a number of older clothing books, including a couple of books of patterns for Victorian and Edwardian clothing. Raiments 3345 East Miraloma Suite 134 Anaheim CA 92806 - Patterns from 1100-1950 representing 15 pattern companies. Catalog $5 (refundable with purchase). The Cabinet of Vintage Patterns 3522 Deerbrook Windsor Ontario N8R 2E9 - Canadian company featuring patterns from 1905 to 1930; reproductions of women's and children's clothing. Catalog $4. Some very nice 1910-20 tea dresses. Old World Enterprises Dept 302 29036 Kepler Ct Cold Spring Minn 56320 - 19th century patterns. $2 for catalog. Their listing says they specialize in 19th century garments. Their patterns aren't copies of existing garments, though, but originals based on the prevailing styles at the time. They offer multiple graded patterns in female sizes 8-10-12-14 and male sizes 38-40-42. Catalog $2. Prairie Clothing Co 3732 Tanager Drive NE Cedar Rapids IA 52402 (319) 378-0125 - $1 catalog. Lots of "Little House on the Prairie"-style clothing. More or less current clothing styles adapted for a combination prairie/Edwardian feel without tons of sewing details. Remember When Collection 361 N. Ohio Salina, KS 67401 - Send SASE for brochure. "Romantic" clothing. Current designs adapted to a Victorian feel. Dave Uebele ({ucbvax!ucscc |uunet | sun}!sco!daveu) has provided a fairly complete list of sources for 1850-1900 clothing and heavy materials construction. See his notes later in this article. Magazines: Vintage Fashions Hobby House Press Inc. 900 Frederick St. Cumberland, MD 21502 -- a bi-monthly magazine focusing on vintage apparel and instructions for their care and repair. One-year subscription $19.95, sample copy $2.95. Books: Some of these books are out of print. Most of them should be in a good university library. Some of them will be in the public library: Iris Brooke: "A practical guide to the constuction of theatrical medieval garments" (or something like that) (Iris Brooke has written a number of historical costuming books). Alcega, Juan de. Tailor's Pattern Book 1589. (reprint) Burnham, Dorothy. Cut My Cote. (diagrams of actual historical (and ethnic?) clothing in the Royal Ontario Museum. Diagrams are graphed and shown with metric dimensions.) Hill, Margot Hamilton & Pater A. Buchnell. The Evolution of Fashion: Pattern & Cut from 1066-1930. Houston, Mary G. & Florence Hornblower. Medieval Costumes in England and France. Holkefer, Katherine Strand. Patterns for Theatrical Costumes. Edson, Doris & Lucy Barton. Period Patterns. Fernald, Mary. "Costume Design and Making" From an article on sewing costumes in Threads #30: Waugh, Norah: "The Cut of Women's Clothes 1600-1930" and "The Cut of Men's Clothes 1600-1900" (Theatre Arts Books) Concise descriptions and drawings of men's gaments from 1600 to 1900. Includes scaled patterns that can be enlarged. Hillhouse, Marion and Evelyn A Mansfield: Dress Design: Draping and Flat Pattern Making. Riverside Press 1948. Clear instructions on draping, with excellent drawings of bodice, skirt, sleeve, and neckline styles. Perfect for reproducing styles of the 1940's. Covey, Liz: The Costumer's Handbook. Prentice Hall 1980. A good basic source for the tecniques of theatrical cosumters. Arnold, Janet: Patterns of Fashion 1: Englishwomen's Dresses and Their Construction c. 1660-1860; Patterns of Fashion 2: Englishwomen's Dresses and their Construction c. 1860-1940. New York. Drama Book Publishers, 1972. Contains notes on construction techniques and fabrics. Very clear drawings show the inside of each garment. History of Costume from Ancient Egypt to 20th Century. Blanche Payne. c.1965. New York. Harper & Row. Includes patterns drawn to scale. One tactic is to choose a garment in a book, make a transparency of the pattern in the book, and go buy a pattern as similar as possible. Then project the transparency on the wall and use it to adjust the bought pattern to the style of the garment in the book. Dover has a Pictorial Archive catalog and a Needlework catalog. The Needlework catalog includes several books that discuss Renaissance embroidery. The Pictorial Archive catalog has a FEW books that cover costumes. Typically these are books that contain pictures of people in costume. There are few (none?) books with actual costumes drafted. Dover Publications 31 East 2nd St Mineola, NY 11501. The whole costumer's catalog is probably available from: GCFCG (Greater Columbia Fantasy Costumers guild). P.O. Box 194 Mt. Airy, Md 21771 Subject: book review: textiles and clothing Date: 1 Jun 92 From: SHERMAN%TRLN.DECnet at uncvx1.acs.unc.EDU ("Dennis R. Sherman") Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Organization: The Internet Greetings to the Rialto from Robyyan. My copy of _Textiles and Clothing_, the latest in the Museum of London series about medieval finds arrived this weekend. For those that don't know, this is a series of books on recoveries from archeological sites in London. The first three books in the series are _Knives and Scabbards_, _Shoes and Pattens_, and _Dress Accessories_. The titles are indicative of the subject matter of each :-) These books are terrific research and reconstruction material. They include detailed descriptions, drawings, and photographs of recovered articles, in many cases with patterns from articles disassembled for preservation. And they have *large* bibliographies. This particular volume, _Textiles and Clothing_, contains information of interest to anyone working with cloth, although I think it will be of most use to weavers. There are no complete garments included, although there are many fragments (i.e. pieces of a sleeve, a foot from hose, a couple of hoods, etc.) I don't think there are sufficient clothing fragments to base a complete set of garb on the information here, but the information on details (how to sew buttonholes or eyelets, making cloth buttons, how hems and edges are turned or bound) is quite valuable. Selections from the table of contents: (typos mine, multiple -- indicate places where I left things out) Techniques used in textile production wool-hair-linen-wilk-dyes-looms Wool textiles state of preservation-the weaves of the cloths-three-shed twills---tabby weaves--tapestry-knitting-felt Goathair textiles Linen textiles self-patterened weaves -- finishing Silk textiles ---sources of supply---tabby woven---weft-patterened---satin damask Mixed cloths Narrow wares tablet woven braids--fingerloop braids-plaited braids-- -garters---hairnets Sewing techniques and tailoring sewing threads-sewing techniques-bindings and facings- fastening methods---dagges I highly recommend this series for people interested in historical accuracy in their reconstructions. All are available from Her Majesties Stationary Office (HMSO): HMSO Publications Centre PO Box 276, London, SW8 5DT 071-873-9090 (remember to dial for England first) They take Visa and MasterCard. Prices on the books are different, and vary with the exchange rate. _Textiles and Clothing_ cost me just under $55, including surface mail shipping. Bibliographic data (try to get your local library to order these books! :-) -- Elisabeth Crowfoot, Frances Pritchard and Kay Staniland; _Medieval finds from excavations in London:4, Textiles and Clothing c.1150-c.1450_; London: HMSO, 1992. ISBN 0 11 290445 9 *--------------------------------------------------------------------* * Robyyan Torr d'Elandris Kapellenberg, Windmaster's Hill Atlantia * *--------------------------------------------------------------------* * Dennis R. Sherman Triangle Research Libraries Network * * dennis_sherman at unc.edu Univ. of North Carolina - Chapel Hill * *--------------------------------------------------------------------* Newsgroups: rec.org.sca From: sherman at trln.lib.unc.edu (dennis r. sherman) Subject: Re: Buttons Organization: Triangle Research Libraries Network Date: Sat, 10 Apr 1993 22:22:09 GMT Philippa d'Ecosse writes: >I'm not all that good at tying bows with my teeth, I wondered if >some sort of button might be acceptably period. Geoff Egan and Frances Pritchard, _Dress Accessories c.1150-c.1450, Medieval Finds from Excavations in London vol.3_, London: HMSO, 1991. ISBN 0 11 29044 0 Find this book!!! Available from HMSO bookshops, but you have to call London to order, and its the most expensive paperback book I've ever bought. If you want to call -- country code + 071-873-9090, I think its a 24 hour order line. Note from the title that this book deals with London in a restricted range of years -- that doesn't mean other times and places didn't use similar stuff, but you can't prove it from this source. Brief notes from chapter on buttons: - buttons probably came into common use in England and Europe in the early 13th century - excavated buttons generally fall in three categories: *cast, usually solid lead/tin with integral shanks, or bronze with embedded wire shanks *composite sheeting, made of two stamped pieces of copper alloy soldered together and wire shank soldered in place *cloth, bunch of scrap cloth sewn into ball - buttons vary in size from 8mm to 15.5mm diameter for the metal, 4mm-6mm for round cloth, 14mm-35mm for loose, flat cloth, which may have had a stiffener inside -- Robyyan Torr d'Elandris Kapellenberg, Windmaster's Hill Atlantia -------------------------------------- Dennis R. Sherman Triangle Research Libraries Network dennis_sherman at unc.edu Univ. of North Carolina - Chapel Hill From: nsmca at aurora.alaska.edu Newsgroups: soc.culture.celtic,rec.org.sca Subject: Re: Instructions for ancient kilt - feileadh mor Date: 21 Jul 93 08:11:13 GMT Organization: University of Alaska Fairbanks In article <1993Jul21.022229.3213 at cujo.curtin.edu.au>, Andy Weir writes: > In article <1992Aug12.223147.18550 at access.usask.ca> Hugh > Goldie, goldie at herald.usask.ca writes: >>Please send instructions for folding and wearing the Great > Scottish Kilt or >>feileadh-mor. As I understand it, this was a large piece of > tartan or >>other cloth, folded in pleats and worn about the body, with > only a belt used > > I saw a segment on this in a documentary about a year ago or > so ago. Sorry I can't remember what it was called or whether > it was just a 5-10 minute filler between shows. Someone has > already described how it is put on which is exactly how I > remember it from the TV. It could have been the fairly recent > documentary on Scottish migration shown in OZ in the past 12 > months which in the main covered migration to the USA. > > I hope someone else may have seen it and can put you on to it. > > Andy Weir/Wier/Weer/Vere . . . . . Might check out "The Clans of the Scottish Highlands" atleast for examples.. Author is RR. McIan, forward by Antonia Fraser.... The original book was doen c.1845/47.. ISBN: 0 907486 38 X From Webb&Bower (Publications) Ltd. Or Chancellor Press, 49 Grosvenor Stree, London W1. Not sure of any other books right now, but my library is in storage for now.. Just to large for my apartment. ====== Ghost Wheel - NSMCA at acad3.alaska.edu From: g_duperault at venus.twu.edu Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: costume biblio--LONG! Date: 29 Nov 93 17:11:33 +600 Organization: Texas Woman's University Here it is kiddies! Have fun! Avwye ______________________________________________________________________________ _A Bibliography of Costume Sourcebooks_ The following list has been compiled with the intention of providing a list of recently published, and therefore reasonably available , sources for costume and clothing reconstruction. Titles listed with both ISBN and price can be assumed to be in print and available in the US at this time. Additions, changes, etc. should be sent to G_Duperault at venus.twu.edu Permission is given to copy and freely distribute this list in its complete and entire form, which must include this header. No warranty expressed or implied. Your mileage may vary. (c) 1993 D.M.Duperault BOOKS: Ancient Indian Costume, Rosten Alkazi. New Delhi: Art Heritage, 1983. 200p. A history of the costume of India, from earliest civilization to 1200. Illustrated, with maps, index and bibliography. Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd. Janet Arnold. Leeds, England: Maney, 1988. 392p. Illustrated, with bibliography and index. Inventory of a wardr obe taken in 1600. ISBN 0901286206. A Handbook of Costume. Janet Arnold. London: Macmilan, 1973. 336p. Illustrated, with bibliography. ISBN 0333124812. Patterns of Fashion; Englishwomen's dresses and their construction. Janet Arnold. London: Macmillan, 1990. 2 volumes, ill. $30.00. ISBN 0896760278 Patterns of Fashion: The cut and construction of clothes for men and women, c.1560-1620. Janet Arnold. London: Macmillan; New York: Drama Book, 1985. 128p. Illustrated, with bibliography. The history of dressmaking and tailoring of men's clothing. ISBN 089676039. Dress in the Age of Elizabeth I. Jane Ashford. New York: Holmes and Meier, 1988. 159p. ISBN 0841911908. Folk Jewelery of the World. Ger Daniels. Rizzoli. 200p. Heavily illustrated survey of ornaments and traditional dress. $60.00. Kings, Queens, Knights and Jesters: Making medieval costumes, Lynn Edelman Schnurnberger. New York: Harper and Row, 1978. 124p. An illustrated history of costume, aimed at the juvenile audience. $6.95. ISBN 0060252413. Dress Accessories, c1150-c1450. Geoff Egan and Frances Pritchard. London: HMSO, 1991. 421p. Illustrated. Medieval finds from excavations in London. ISBN 0112904440. Dress and Undress: a history of women's underwear. Elizabeth Ewing. New York: Drama Book Specialists, c1978. 191p.: ill. Index. Everyday Dress, 1650-1900: a popular survey, Elizabeth Ewing. Chelsea House Publishers, 1989. Illustrated. $19.95. ISBN 1555467504 History of Children's Costume, Elizabeth Ewing. New York: Scribner, 1977. 191p. Illustrated, with colour plates, index. The Tie: trends and traditions. Sarah Gibbings. Barron's. 160p. An illustrated history of the tie and it's precursors, from the 1600's to today. $ 21.95. The Hat: Trends and traditions. Madeline Ginsburg. Hauppage, NY: Barron's, 1990. 160p: ill. After a fashion: How to reproduce, restore, and wear vintage styles. Francis Grimble. San Francisco: Lavolta Press, 1993. 352p. Line drawings. $35.00 ISBN 0963651706 Covers clothing styles from medieval to modern. Ancient Danish Textiles from Bogs and Burials: a comparitive study of costume and iron age textiles. Margarethe Hald. Copenhagen: National Museum of Denmark, 1980. 398p. Illustrated, with maps. Covers the textiles and costumes of prehistoric Denmark. Renaissance Dress in Italy 1400-1500. Jacqueline Herald. London: Bell and Hyman; Atlantic Highlands, N., 1981. 256p. An illustrated history of costume in art during the Italian Renaissance. Costume Construction. Katherine Strand Holkeboer. Englewood Cliifs,NJ: Prentice Hall, 1989. 232p. Index and bibliography. Costuming and costume design. ISBN 0131812076. $29.00. Patterns for Theatrical Costumes: garments, trims, and accessories from ancient Egypt to 1915. Katherine Strand Holkeboer. Englewood Cliffs, NJ: Prentice-Hall, c1993. 352p: ill. Index and bibliography. $29.95 ISBN 0136542603 paperbound. Patterns for Women's Dress 1500-1800. Jean Hunnisett. London: Bell & Hyman, 1986. The Costume Designers Handbook: a complete guide for the amateur and profess ional costume designers. Rosemary Ingham. 2nd ed. Portsmouth, NH: Heinemann, 1992. 286p. Costumers Handbook. Rosemary Ingham and Elizabeth Covey. Englewood Cliffs, NJ: Prentice Hall, 1980. Put Your Foot Down: a treatise on the history of shoes. Florence E. Ledger. Meksham, Wiltshire, U.K.: C. Venton, 1985. 214p. An illustrated history of shoes. ISBN 0854751114. 900 Years of English Costume: from 11th to 20th century, Nancy Margetts. New York: Crescent Books, 1987. 200p. Includes bibliography and index. ISBN 051761670X. The Duchess of Devonshire's Ball. Sophia Murphy. London: Sidgwick and Jacson, 1984. 176p. Illustrated, with bibliography and index. 18th century costume balls and parties. ISBN 0283989882. Historical Costumes of Turkish Women. Nisantasi, Istanbul: Middle East Video Corp., 1986. 175p. Mostly colour illustrations, some maps, bibliography. $100. Fashion in the Age of the Black Prince: a study of the years 1340-65. Stella Mary Newton. Woodbridge: Boydell Press; Totowa, NJ: Rowman and Littlefield, 1980. 157p. Index and bibliography. ISBN 0847669394. Costume: a general bibliography. Anthony Pegaret and Janet Arnold. 2nd ed. London: Costume Society, Department of Textiles, Victoria and Albert Museum, 1974. 42p. ISBN 090340706X. The Historical Encyclopedia of Costumes. Albert Racinet. New York, NY: Facts on File, 1988. 320p. lithographic illus.; translation and abridgement of Le Costume Historique. Index. $45.00 Period Style for the Theatre. Douglas A. Russell. 2nd ed. Boston: Allyn and Bacon, 1987. 375p. Illustrated, with bibliography and index. History of Western costume and it's applications in theatre and acting. ISBN 0205104886. Late Gothic Europe, 1400-1500. Margaret Scott. London: Mills and Boon, Atlantic Highlands, N., 1980. 256p. An illustrated history of European costume in the 15th century. History of Men's Costume, Marion Sichel. Chelsea House Publishers, 1989. $14.95. ISBN 1555467555. History of Women's Costume, Marion Sichel. Chelsea House Publishers, 1989. $14.95 ISBN 1555467563. Costume Reference: Roman Britain and the Middle Ages. Marion Sichel. London: Batsford, 1977. Costume Reference: Tudors and Elizabethans. Marion Sichel. London: Batsford, 1977. Costume Reference: Jacobean, Stuart and Restoration. Marion Sichel. London: Batsford. 1977. Ancient Costumes of England, from druids to Tudors, Charles Hamilton Smith. New York: Arch Cape Press, 1989. Drawings. ISBN 0517678829. Textiles From Medieval Egypt, A.D. 300-1300. Thelma K. Thomas. Pittsburg, PA: Carnegie Museum of Natural History, 1990. 66p. Illustrated, with bibliography Covers the costumes and textiles of medieval egypt. ISBN 0911239200. A Survey of Historic Costume. Phyllis Tortora and Keith Eubank. New York: Fairchild Publications, 1989. 361p. : ill. Bibliography. ISBN 0870056328 Costume Patterns and Designs. Max Tilke. New York: Rizzoli, 1990. 49p. 128 leaves of plates. Translation of Kostumschnitte und Gewandformen. $35.00 ISBN 084781209X L'Encyclopedie de Costume. Max Tilke. New York, NY: French and European Publications, Inc., 1973. $250.00 ISBN 0828862877 Elizabethan Costuming. Janet Winter and Carolyn Savoy. Oakland, CA: Other Times Publications, 1991. $15.00 ISBN 0963022008 European Costume: 4000 years of fashion. Doreen Yarwood. New York: Bonanza Books, Crown Publishers, 1982. 312p. An illustrated history of European costume. With index and bibliography. Costume of the Western World: a pictoral guide and glossary. Doreen Yarwood. New York: St. Martins Press, 1980. 192p: ill. Bibliography. Of His Array Telle I No Longer Tale: aspects of costume, arms, and armour in Western Europe, 1200-1400. H.M. Zijlstra-Zweens. Amsterdam: Rodopi, 1988. Illustrated, with index and bibliography. Text in English, Dutch and German. Covers medieval clothing, social life, and customs between 500 and 1500. ISBN 9051830254. OTHER MEDIA: National Types and Costumes: with explanatory text. [Microfilm.] London: F. Bruckman. 32p. Illustrated history of costume photography in the 1880's. Visual Catalogue of Fashion and Costume in the Victoria and Albert Museum. [Microform] Photos by Philip Metcalf. Haslemere, Surrey: Emmett Microform, 1981. 57 microfiches. Index. Pictoral history of items in the Victoria and Albert collection, with historical and informational notes. #1 in the Fashion, Costume, and Uniform series. Costume: The journal of the Costume Society. Costume Society, Victoria and Albert Museum. Published annually. Bibliography of Sourcebooks for Historical Costume Construction From: jab2 at stl.stc.co.uk (Jennifer Ann Bray) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: 14th C textiles & clothing book Date: 11 Jan 94 15:30:14 Organization: STC Technology Ltd., London Road, Harlow, UK. I just got a book that might interest someone else out there: Medieval finds from excavations in London: 4 Textiles and Clothing c.1150 - c.1450 Elizabeth Crowfoot, Frances Pritchard and Kay Staniland Published HMSO 1992 copyright of the Board of Governors of the Museum of London ISBN 0 11 290445 9 Price 29.95 pounds sterling Most of the stuff is fourteenth century, though as the books title says the range is from c.1150-c.1450 The book begins with details of sources and where the textiles were found, then there is a short chapter on techniques used in textile production. This has some very dodgy looking drawings of looms, there seems to be no wat to move the beaters on them, either They've missed something or medieval looms were wierder than I thought. Then the book goes into details on weaves and structures with chapters on wool, goathair, linen, silk and mixed cloths. The wool chapter even includes a couple of pages on knitting and one on felt. The chapter on silk is a masterpiece of deduction, by hunting around ancient silks the authors have reproduced patterns of whole pieces of cloth from tiny scraps and offcuts. A whole chapter is devoted to narrow wares including tablet woven braids, fingerloop braids, plaited braids, garters and hairnets. This was my favourite, as I'm a tablet weaving freak, there was a good description of a method of sewing braid onto edges by simultaneously weaving and sewing, using the weft of the braid as the sewing thread. I'm dying to find something to try this out on. There is also a chapter on sewing with lots of detail on stuff like how seams were sewn, how cloth buttons were made, how the buttonholes were stitched, how to edge necks you name it, it's there. Anyone like me who spends hours fiddling about with fiddle about with period details that hardly anyone appreciates will love this section. There is not so much on patterns of clothing as mostly the stuff found was very fragmentary, but there are pictures of hoods and hose that are complete enough to work out a pattern from. There is also a well preserved buttoned sleeve which might interest someone with a masochistic inclination to make buttonholes by the dozen! The illustrations are great with lots of colour plates and close ups, so you can see every detail of the textiles. The text puts everything into context and cites just about every other relevant find there is. This is definately not a beginners book, and it's quite expensive, but if you're looking for something to add to a 14th century English costume and you've run out of sources, this is the book for you. I don't even do 14th century stuff and I got it anyway, I can never resist a good book on textiles, maybe that's why I never have enough money left over to buy the bookshelves I need to put them all on! Jennifer Vanaheim Vikings Newsgroups: rec.org.sca From: proberts at castle.ed.ac.uk (P Roberts) Subject: Re: 14th C textiles & clothing book Organization: Edinburgh University Date: Tue, 11 Jan 1994 18:42:57 GMT Jennifer mentioned a book she has just bought: > Medieval finds from excavations in London: 4 > Textiles and Clothing c.1150 - c.1450 > Elizabeth Crowfoot, Frances Pritchard and Kay Staniland > Published HMSO 1992 > copyright of the Board of Governors of the Museum of London > ISBN 0 11 290445 9 > Price 29.95 pounds sterling There are three other books in this set (hence the "4" in the title): Knives and Scabbards; Shoes and Patterns; and (I think) Dress Accessories. They are all published by HMSO but I'm afraid I don't have further details to hand. Speaking from memory, I think the Textiles and Clothing volume is the most expensive of the set. Edward From: huff at bronze.lcs.mit.EDU (Robert Huff) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: 14th C textiles & clothing book Date: 13 Jan 1994 22:42:48 -0500 Organization: The Internet Ave! When this series was discussed many months ago, someone claimed that a Canadian entity - I believe it was the Univ. of Toronto Press - had either distribution rights for North America, or reprint rights. Diego Mundoz Carolingia From: sclark at epas.utoronto.ca (Susan Clark) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: Need references for early 14c man's clothing. Date: 14 Feb 1994 21:45:11 GMT Organization: EPAS Computing Facility, University of Toronto Greetings.... I highly recommend _Fashion in the Age of the Black Prince_ by Stella Mary Newton (Woodbrige-Boydell, Rowman, Little field, 1980, ISBN 0-8476-6939-4). This is mostly late 14th century, but it is excellent. You're not going to get much on hoppelandes here, but it will give you an overview of the late 14th century innovations. Surviving patterns from this period are nonexistant. There are a few surviving pieces here and there, but they are rare. If you want a pre-drafted pattern, the Period Patterns for cotehardies and houppelandes aren't too bad. Cheers-- Nicolaa/Susan Canton of Eoforwic sclark at epas.utoronto.ca Newsgroups: rec.org.sca From: foxd at silver.ucs.indiana.edu (daniel fox) Subject: New Costume references Organization: Indiana University, Bloomington IN Date: Tue, 13 Sep 1994 10:05:07 GMT Spreading word about sources and reference books is my mission in the SCA, so here are some I've come across recently: Hansen, Henny Harald. Mongol Costumes. Thames and Hudson. London and NYC:1993. ISBN:0500015856 If you're familiar with the edition printed in 1950 you'll probably want to look this one up anyway. The book has been entirely re-organized and the original pictures have been supplemented by large full color photographs of the garments-- some of them on mannequins. The latter give you a good feel for the hang of the clothing, and for the way the various pieces are put together. If you aren't familiar with it this is a catalog of garments dating from the first third of the 20th century. It includes diagrams and detail sketches, as well as general commentary. For documentation puropses this book is best used as cross- reference to SCA period sources--such few that exist. However, in the absence of those sources, this book is very valuable. Weidtz, Christoph. Authentic Everyday Dress of the Rennaissance: All 154 Plates from the "Trachtenbuch". Dover. New York:1994. Trachtenbuch was orginally printed about 1530. It's a collection of sketches from the artists sojourn in Spain (and some from side- excursions elsewhere in Europe.) Interpretation isn't always easy for the seamstress, but there are costumes from many walks of life--including peasant, middle-class and some occupational garb. It's a good primary source. Dunlevy, Mairead. Dress in Ireland. Holmes and Meier. New York:1989. ISBN: 0-8419-1269-8 Good coverage of period material. Chapters on Medieval and 16th century differeintiates between the fashions of the English in Ireland and the Irish themselves, and between wealthy and poor. Good reproductions of previously published sources and some new matierial as well. Campbell, Louise. Renaissance Portraits:European Portrait Paining in the 14th, 15th and 16th Century. Yale University. New Haven and London:1990. ISBN 0-300-04675 Excellent source for reproductions. Includes many old friends and many rarely reproduced ones. Text is fascinating--Campbell is attempting to dispell the modern predjudice against portraiture as an art form, by showing the methods the have used to shape the viewer's impression of the sitter. (BTW this book was listed as still being in print as of June '94....) Comments welcomed.... Mistress Audelindis de Rheims, OL OW From: odlin at reed.edu (Iain Odlin) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: Janet Arnold Date: 8 Dec 1994 07:19:46 GMT Organization: The Stuffed Animal Trauma Team (We're Trained Professionals) If you're going to be using Arnold's book to create garb, I *highly* recommend locating a copy of "The Annotated Arnold" as well. It deals (very well) with a number of (very stupid) errors in Ms Arnold's"re- constructions". Last I checked, it was available from a company called "Raiments" who advertises on occasion in TI. -- ------------------------- Iain Odlin, odlin at reed.edu ------------------------- 42 Clifton Street, Portland ME 04101 From: foxd at silver.ucs.indiana.edu (daniel fox) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: Costuming Date: 9 Dec 1994 05:32:20 GMT Organization: Indiana University, Bloomington There are two good books on the period, neither of them include much in the way of existing examples, since there are none, but they do use primary sources: Herald, Jacqueline, Rennaisance Dress in Italy, 1400-1500. Humanities Press, 1981. This book is out of print. Birbari, Elizabeth. Dress in Italian Painting 1460-1500. Murray, 1975. Also oop. Also try the following books in Italian (the pictures are good.) Levi-Pisetsky, Rosa. Storia del Costume in Italia. Vol. 2 and 3. I Instituto Editoriale Italiano, 1965-69. Bentivegna, F. C. _Abbigliamento E Costume Nella Pittura Italiana_ Volume 1. Bestiti:? I hope these help. Audelindis de Rheims From: dduperault at aol.com (DDuperault) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: Costuming Date: 15 Dec 1994 11:50:11 -0500 foxd at silver.ucs.indiana.edu (daniel fox) writes: > However, I have never seen another book showing Italian Ren. >clothing still intact. Are there any out there? If so, how can I >find it. Any info. would be appreciated Look for _Lives of the Courtesans_. Published in the late '80's. Beautiful pictures and decent text. With details of some of the garments. Sorry I don't recall the author or publisher. I'm sure there are people here who do.. Avwye From: Rick Gaigneur Newsgroups: alt.sewing,rec.org.sca Subject: Re: costume patterns Date: Tue, 14 Feb 1995 09:06:43 -0400 Organization: University of New Brunswick Hi! For those of you interested in the Patterns for Theatrical Costumes book, here is the most up-to-date information I have on it (thanks to having Books in Print on CD-ROM on this computer. Just a joyous thing to have, by the way!): Patterns for Theatrical Costume 02/1993 Drama Book Publishers Katherine S. Holbeboer illus. Trade Cloth ISBN 0-89676-125-8 352p. $ 29.95 US Publisher: Drama Book Publishers 260 Fifth Avenue, New York, NY, 10001, US Phone: 212-725-5377 Fax: 212-725-8506 This information was in the most recent (January 1995) update of Global Books in Print, so it's definitely still available. Drama Publishers also has a UK office, so it's available there too. >AETHERIC LINDEBERENDE< >Rick Gaigneur< >Shire of Lyndhaven< Newsgroups: rec.org.sca From: cathal at netcom.com (James Pratt) Subject: Re: costume help - female celt Date: Thu, 23 Feb 1995 03:06:58 GMT : Good Milady: : The best reference (IMHO) for Celtic (sic) costume : is: : OLD IRISH AND HIGHLAND DRESS : by H.F. McClintock : Dundalgan Press, Dundalk, 1943. : Most major University libraries should have it our your local : can get it for you through ILL. : Cathal Mac Edan : Barony of the South Downs, Meridies. From: henrys at icicle.winternet.COM (The Henry's) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Book on researching and recreating historical costumes Date: 22 Mar 1995 16:59:15 -0500 This review is being posted with the permission of its author, Danine Cozzens. *-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-* l Rosanore of Redthorn (Susan Guthmann Henry) Member #8769 since 1976 l * henrys at winternet.com * l l * "Every status quo is a prison house of the spirit." * l --Henry Nelson Wyman l *-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-* ---------- Forwarded message ---------- After a Fashion - Book Review Frances Grimble recently posted that her new book, _After a Fashion_, was available by mail for $35. I was probably one of the first to receive a copy, and thought folks on this group would appreciate a more detailed description before sending for the book sight unseen. If you have subscribed to this group, you will probably want to buy this book. It is so well targeted to living history reenactors that someone living in utter isolation, with only this book and the appropriate patterns or costume diagrams in hand, could outfit themselves respectably for a major historical event. Frances Grimble has had national exposure as an expert on vintage fashion with her articles in _Threads_ and _Vintage Fashions_; this book should establish her as an authority on historic costume construction as well. _After A Fashion_ is almost five books in one: It's a survey of historic costume, a costume planner, a book of period sewing techniques, a guide to vintage fashions, and a costuming resource list. The first chapter (57 pages) describes "garb" for the most popular reenactment eras: Medieval [12th, 13th and 14th centuries each described separately], Elizabethan, American Revolutionary, English Regency, Civil War, Gay Nineties, Ragtime, and Art Deco. These overviews give a good sense of what upper-class men and women wore, and whether you or your significant other would want to be seen in it. Chapter 2 deals with planning your outfit. There are numerous practical hints on planning your costuming project, including a catchall list of everything you need to pack for any event in any period, from "Paltock/pourpoint/cotehardie/double/coat/jacket" to "Bag/pouch/pockets/purse." The list consumes an entire page; no wonder it takes so long to get dressed for an event! Other sections tell how to hire a dressmaker, how to overcome budget limitations, and how to buy by mail. I loved the "historical mix and match" Civil War weekend wardrobe, based on separate day and evening tops for the same skirt-- as practical now as it was at the time. Chapters 3 and 4 address construction techniques. The instructions are so complete that the financially challenged could well purchase this book instead of a conventional sewing encyclopedia. The numerous line drawings by Deborah Kuhn, who illustrated the original Folkwear patterns, show what you need to know at a glance. A one-page analysis of a Regency shirt conveys the principle of geometric garment construction shown in _Cut My Cote_. Another example shows how a Civil War skirt was "leveled" at the waist after applying the copious ornamentation to the hem. Chapters 5, 6 and 7 cover buying vintage clothes, mending garments, and altering them. Fran explains the need for preservation of old and truly unique garments, and shows how one can incorporate parts of dying dresses into new costumes, or replace worn portions, such as underarms. The altering and mending hints would also help transform stage or thrift shop finds into something "peri-oid" that could be worn at less rigorous historic events, or let you rescue a tired costume of your own. The book ends with twenty-five pages of annotated bibliography cover books, book dealers, and periodicals; supplies for reproduction and restoration; reproduction clothes, accessories and weapons; vintage clothes and accessories; and the organizations who put on events where you can wear all these duds. Each entry has a short description. And it is cross-referenced for easy locating. _After A Fashion_ is beautifully laid out, clearly written, and professionally printed. The big (8-1/2" by 11"), thick (over 300 pages) format boasts a slick cover whose ink won't come off on your hand. Since Fran is a dancer, most of the couples are shown in dance positions, a good reminder that our ultimate goal as historic costumers is to make a believable appearance at period events (and to have a wonderful time!). _After a Fashion_ can be mail ordered from: Lavolta Press 20 Meadowbrook Drive San Francisco, CA 94132 The price is $35 (plus sales tax for CA residents) plus $3.50 shipping. Danine Cozzens Internet: dgc3 at pge.com (I will be happy to respond to further inquiries individually or in subsequent postings.) From: odlin at reed.edu (Iain Odlin) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: Designs for Cavalier Clothes Date: 10 Jun 1995 15:40:12 GMT Susanna Richardson <70357.3331 at CompuServe.COM> wrote: >The 'Annotated Arnold' has been discussed a number of times by >costumers, and there is a consensus that the author had a serious >axe to grind. Yes, the author did. In a word: so? That doesn't mean the points made in the "Annotated Arnold" are wrong. Have you, my lady, ever read it? >Ms. Arnold is a respected expert in her field, she has published >a great many articles, and outside that one ... publication, I >have never seen her conclusions called into question. Ms. Arnold is without question a wonderful conservator and curator, but a seamstress she is not. The errors she makes in "Patterns of Fashion" are numerous, easily verified, and some of these mistakes make reproducing the garments as she describes them impossible. The two easiest examples of egregious error are seen on page 5 (the hanging sleeve) and pages 112 and 113 (the 'Pair of bodies' or corset). I won't go into detail, but I suggest cutting out both these patterns in muslin and trying to put them together. You'll soon find that the sleeve is impossible (I spent hours on it, since I believed, at that point, that Arnold was perfect), and that the corset is unwearable (and ends up looking more like a Rocky Horror costume piece than an Elizabethan anything). >-just my two cents worth on the subject of Arnold, whose books I >always recommend along with Jean Hunnisett. I'm not saying "Patterns of Fashion" is without merit (which would be incredibly stupid -- there's a lot of good stuff here). I am simply observing that Arnold makes many errors, and all the ones I've run into while trying to make some of the clothes therein are addressed in "The Annotated Arnold". It is therefore worth the time of anyone who is making clothes from Arnold's book to read though it. -- ------------------------- Iain Odlin, odlin at reed.edu ------------------------- 42 Clifton Street, Portland ME 04101 From: sclark at blues.epas.utoronto.ca (Susan Carroll-Clark) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: Definative books on medieval garb? Date: 27 Mar 1995 03:04:03 GMT Organization: University of Toronto -- EPAS Greetings! There is no ONE definative book on medieval garb. Why?? Because the medieval part of the SCA is about 800 years long, with 200 or so of the Renaissance tacked on. Can anyone name a single history book which is the "definative history" of this very long period? (rhetorical question!!!) There are definative books for specific periods (for instance, Janet Arnold's _Patterns of Fashion_ for the late 16th century; Stella Mary Newton's -Fashion in the Age of the Black Prince_ for the 14th century, and so on. And there are also good overviews with lots of pictures, such as the big fat Davenport book whose name escapes me at the moment. However, there are a number of periods that don't have a "definative book" --my own (13th century) is a good example. Theree are some books that cover it well--but you can't really understand the period until you've read all the books AND ppored over illuminations, paintings, and statuary--and you're still just guessing in many instances. Cheers! Nicolaa/Susan Canton of Eoforwic sclark at epas.utoronto.ca From: sniderm at mcmail2.cis.McMaster.CA (Mike Snider) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: Definative books on medieval garb? Date: 27 Mar 1995 21:38:00 -0500 Organization: McMaster University, Hamilton, Ontario, Canada. Greetings, I am certain you will get a flood of postings on this one, but I will add a few good books to Nicolaa's. Jeanne D'Arc Ses Costumes, Son Armure by Adrien Harmand is an excellent source for costumes of the 1400s. Unfortunatly it is in French, but has many useful pictures. The Museum of London: Textiles and Clothing. This covers English clothing from 1150-1450 and is very detailed and informative. Actualy, The Shoes and Pattens book in the same series might also come in handy. Good luck with your project. Elizabeth Cadfan From: foxd at silver.ucs.indiana.edu (daniel fox) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: Suggestions for books dealing with Ren. Italy. Date: 22 Mar 1996 05:44:40 GMT Organization: Indiana University, Bloomington I found a wonderful book in the costume section of IU library: Newton, Stella Mary. Dress of the Venetians, 1490-1520. It's not just a study of costume, but also a study of clothing in relation to politics, and social order. She uses important primary sources, such as Sanudo's Diaries for her research. It's very well done, and very funny in places.... Audelindis de Rheims From: pat at lalaw.lib.CA.US (Pat Lammerts) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: costume book citations (was I need help...) Date: 27 Nov 1995 16:17:11 -0500 CaitlynMK wrote: > >>Newton, Stella Mary. _Fashion in the Age of the Black Prince_ >>1980, Boydell Press. {covers the years 1340-1365} >> >>Crowfoot, Elisabeth, et al. _Textiles and Clothing; Medieval finds >>from Excavations in London_ (Museum of London). 1992, HMSO >> >Greetings from the Outlands, Baroyn of Caerthe. Do you by any chance >have the ISBN nos for these books. I would love to get a look at them. >Thanks > >CaitlynMK Here is what you asked for. I hope it is of help. Newton, Stella Mary. Fashion in the age of the Black Prince : a study of the years 1340-1365 / Stella Mary Newton. -- Woodbridge : Boydell Press ; Totowa, N.J. : Rowman & Littlefield, 1980. vi, 151 p., [1] leaf of plates : ill. (some col.) ; 29 cm. ISBN 0847669394 (Rowman & Littlefield.) L15.00 LCCN: 81111912 Crowfoot, Elisabeth. Textiles and clothing : c.1150-c.1450 / Elisabeth Crowfoot, Frances Pritchard, and Kay Staniland ; photography by Edwin Baker ; illustrations by Christina Unwin. -- London : HMSO, c1992. x, 223 p. : ill. (some col.) ; 25 cm. -- (Medieval finds from excavations in London ; 4) Series: Museum of London. Medieval finds from excavations in London; 4. ISBN 0112904459 Huette From: gileshill at aol.com (Gileshill) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Truly Worthwhile Later-Period Costume Resource Date: 21 May 1996 11:03:41 -0400 My friends: I have just purchased (well, Louise and I split it) an incredible book called "Dynasties, Painting in Tudor and Jacobean England, 1530-1630" edited by Karen Hearn, ISBN 0-8478-1940-X, published by Rizzoli. Cost $60.00, and worth every penny. It's 267 pages of FULL COLOUR protrait reproductions, with expert commentary on the clothing, architecture, flora and fauna, and sitters. I strongly recommend you put this on your birthday wish lists, your suggested prize for competitions, or just go out and buy it; you won't be disappointed. Giles From: LIB_IMC at centum.utulsa.edu To: ansteorra at eden.com Date: Wed, 5 Jun 1996 10:28:33 -0500 (CDT) Subject: Re: Survey (was Castellan) > >My persona is 1280 Norman. Know where I can get patterns or pictures? Yes. I'm going to suggest some sources that are, er, not pristine pure from an academic standpoint, but if you are careful, will help you out a lot. The first is "Patterns for theatrical costumes" by Katherine Holkeboer. She also has one called "Costume Construction", but I haven't actually read it. If nothing else, this is a good way to see how these things can be pieced together, even if the patterns aren't always absolutely correct (as with making shoes, sometimes you just have to take the knowledge you have on hand, and make a blind guess as to a pattern). I'm about to make a suggestion that will likely get me sneered at, and I'll expain why in a minute. See if you can find a series of books called "Costume and Fashion" by Herbert Norris. Many people don't care for this set of books (even though his material on Ecclesastical Costume is, I believe, a standard text in that area). He doesn't cite his sources and there *are* accusations that he makes things up at times (although I have yet to see anyone offer examples or citations to support the accusation). Keep these in mind when you read the books, and be a little cautious (it's sort of like eating cheese that's got moldy bits -- you can easily just throw out the whole thing, but if you are careful, most of it's still perfectly good :) ). You will notice that I do use him in my Shoe document, and I also will try and supplement that where I can with other, more reliable material. These should get you past the initial "Ok, so how do I do this?" stage. Later, you can progress onto the inner mysteries of costuming (or so my wife tells me :) ). Diarmuit From: Laura McKinstry Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: Period costume patterns?This was from the wrong account Date: Fri, 12 Jul 1996 11:16:47 -0400 For the Elizabethan period, I don't think you can beat "Elizabethan Costuming for the years 1550-1580" by Janet Winter and Carolyn Savoy. ISBN 0-9630220-0-8. $15 This will put you in England or Ireland during the reign of Elizabeth Tudor. Possibly other coutnries, but as an Irishwoman, I didn't research that far. The drawings are clear, and they not only show you what the finished product looks like, but also the shapes of the patterns you need to cut out to create the finished product. It's black and white. Men's, women's, children's clothing, headwear, jewelry, cloaks, underpinnings (corsets, bumroll, etc.,) sleeves, hairstyles, ruffs, hose, and some background on the whole thing. I picked up my copy of this book at an EXCELLENT bookshop at a medieval faire. It might be available through the SCA as well. -------------------------------------------------- Laura McKinstry aka Lark of Cire Freunlaven Dallas, TX harper From: foxd at silver.ucs.indiana.edu (daniel fox) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: Sources for 11th cent. English clothing? Date: 24 Jul 1996 04:41:30 GMT Organization: Indiana University, Bloomington Cunnington, C. Willet and Phyllis, _Handbook of English Costume in the Middle Ages_. Faber and Faber: 1968. (There are several editions and publishers. Owen-Crocker, Gale R. _Dress in Anglo-Saxon England_. Manchester University Press. Manchester, UK: 1986. These are both out of print--or at least Owen-Crocker is, the Cunnington goes in and out regularly. But you should be able to get hold of them via ILL. Audelindis de Rheims From: sclark at chass.utoronto.ca (Susan Carroll-Clark) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: Italian Rennaisance Costume Date: 25 Jul 1996 11:43:57 -0400 Organization: University of Toronto -- EPAS Audelindis said, >Oh, and the book in question is Winters _Elizabethan Costuming: 1580-1600_ >(or as close as I can recall the title not having it in front of me.) >It is a book on how to do quick and easy elizabethan--a concept which I >find a contradiction in terms. I never found Winters as bad as many people have claimed it is--so long as you realize its limitations, chief of which is its advice on fitting female corsets/bodices. For lower-class or middle class stuff, it's acceptable, and the advice it provides on hats and head coverings is not too bad. I'd _never_ use it for documentation--not when there are fabulous books like _Patterns of Fashion_ out there. I think the problem is that it looks so comprehensive that people assume that it must be accurate as well. Like many other books of this type, I think it started its life as a guide to making acceptable RenFaire clothing and has been taken as Gospel by people who have mistaken the authors' original intention. Cheers! Nicolaa de Bracton sclark at chass.utoronto.ca From: foxd at silver.ucs.indiana.edu (daniel fox) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: Italian Rennaisance Costume Date: 25 Jul 1996 03:52:16 GMT Organization: Indiana University, Bloomington If we're talking about _Patterns of Fashion 1560-1620_ there is very little English costume in the book. She does pattern the bodice of the gown Eleanore of Toledo--wife of Cosimo de Medici--was wearing when she was buried. Since Eleanor's black and white brocaded gown is the usually the dress that people refer to most often for mid-16th century Italian it's the best reference I've seen. Audelindis de Rheims From: Diana Habra Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: Desperately seeking cotehardie pattern Date: Fri, 22 Nov 1996 05:39:25 -0800 However, since I > have seen the Jean Hunnisett version of the Greenland Dress ("Period > Costume for Stage and Screen: Patterns for Women's Dress, Medieval-1500"), > I disagree, since they look very similiar. So this should be a pretty > good version. > > Eleanor Courtenay Please be cautious about taking Jean Hunnisett as gospel. While I agree that her late period costuming is about spot on, her early patterns leave much to be researched. I am not saying she is totally wrong, I am merely stating that she does patterns to LOOK good on stage and screen. You would be better off to go to actual sources like photos of preserved clothing (i.e. dresses found in bogs/marshes) or paintings where seam lines can be seen. This type of research on costume will earn you more brownie points with the Laurels of your area. Just a costumer who lives for research.... Lady Roseline d'Anjou Kingdom of the West From: cromabu at aol.com Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: Desperately seeking cotehardie pattern Date: 23 Nov 1996 09:55:47 GMT Keep in mind that no matter what style, period, or country you are trying to recreate the mind set and habbits of the people. Even the rich were stingy with their fabric, they didn't like to waste even a scrap.They were not as privlidged as we with these enormas widths we are privlidged to use now a days.This didn't mean that they only had 28" looms (as I have been told).Janet Arnold has real patterns in the back of her books that show how an outfit would be pieced toghter. With the right fabrics you don't even see the pieced seems.Tailor's Pattern Book 1589, pub. by RuthBean Carlton, Bedford 1979, is an excellant way to see how people piced their patterns together. These are all out of your period but they can be helpfull anyway. Cate Date: Tue, 10 Jun 1997 10:02:05 -0400 (EDT) From: Gileshill at aol.com To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu Subject: Re: Requesting book review In a message dated 97-06-10 09:42:54 EDT, you write: > Amazon Dry Goods is offering Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd, by Janet > Arnold, for 139.95. While I greatly respect Janet Arnold, this is a lot of > money for me, and I have not been able to locate a library copy to look > through. Does anyone else have this book? Is it useful for making garb as > well as enlarging my Tudor garb vocabulary--in other words, does it have > good pictures as well as informative text? Thank you for your time, It has great pictures; color, closeups, details. (Of course, they're all girls, dammit!) The text is Ms Arnold's usual exhaustive, documented, original sourced, interesting writing... I recommend it highly. Chapter heads include Portraits of the Queen, Robes of Ceremony, Designs for Jewellery and Embroidery: their Sources and Symoblism, Gifts of Clothing and Jewels, The Pursuit of Fashion, The Wardrobe of Robes, The Queen's Artificers, and Editor's Notes on the Transcripts of the Stowe and Folger Inventories and Extracts from the New Year's Gift rolls, and Warrants from the Wardrobe of Robes. It's well worth the $139. Giles (who won his copy) Date: Wed, 25 Jun 1997 10:27:44 -0400 From: "lwperkins" To: Subject: Re: Book Review Succeeds I wish to thank everyone who wrote to me regarding Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd; the book came a few days ago and it is an astonishing book---I learned more reading this book about noblewomen's garb in England from 1560 to 1600 than from all my previous books combined. For anyone who is interested in this period's embroidery , find a copy of this book--it has close-ups of the most intricate blackwork, fabulous beasts, allegorical symbols and just amazing needlework that I've ever seen. There's a complete chapter on how the garb was made, close-ups of stitching and fastenings, pictures of underwear(!). I learned that light colors were fashionable, not just dark ones, that Tudor garb was hot to wear even in period, found a picture of a period "Barbie" doll (an 11-inch fashion doll), and read a ton of juicy gossip. Since I probable wouldn't have ponied up the 130.00 without some outside advice, I'm very grateful to all of you. Yours in service, Ester du Bois lwperkins at snip.net Date: Sun, 29 Jun 1997 11:11:53 From: Sheron Buchele/Curtis Rowland To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu Subject: Re: On Fur Trims Gentle Cousins, There is an excellent book I read many years ago that talked alot about the various furs used in later period. I don't remember the exact title - it was out of the Iowa State University library and I am now (thank the Lord) not there. It was "The Clothing in the Time of the Black Prince" or something like that. It went throught the rolls of the chamberlain and discussed what clothing was worn and given away and the fabric of each (and it is not as dry as it sounds). I remember being struck by the mono-chromatic Christmas's. He would give out many many outfits of one particular color and everyone (who was anyone) in court would wear them to the season's parties. There have been a couple of color specific holiday events here in the Outlands, but I never asked the sponsors if they lifted the idea from the court of the Black Prince (or if this was done in other times and other courts). Anyway, I hope that this book would be helpful to you and I apologize for the vagueness of the cite. Baroness Leonora Date: Sun, 29 Jun 1997 17:35:47 -0400 From: "lwperkins" To: Subject: Re: On Fur Trims Baroness Leonora wrote: > There is an excellent book I read many years ago that talked alot about the > various furs used in later period. I don't remember the exact title - it > was out of the Iowa State University library and I am now (thank the Lord) > not there. It was "The Clothing in the Time of the Black Prince" or > something like that. The book I have is "Fashion in the Age of the Black Prince-- A study of the years 1340-1365." by Stella Mary Newton, published by Boydell Press, P.O. Box 9. woodbridge, Suffolk,1p12 3DF, in USA Rowman and Littlefield, 81 Adams Drive, Totowa, New Jersey, 07512 ,ISBN 0-85115-125-6. I have been told that it has been out of print, I got my copy as barter from an individual. It is a fantastic reference book for the period, though it is light on pictures, it has excellent text. --Ester Du Bois lwperkins at snip.net From: Dieterich To: ansteorra at Ansteorra.ORG Date: Thu, 07 Aug 1997 11:34:01 -0500 Subject: Re: ANST - 1400's garb >As Janet Arnold is to the Elizabethan world of costuming...is their >someone who "knows" 15th century clothing? > >Kayleigh Drake >Baroness of Bonwicke >The Western Region of Ansteorra ********* Well, at the risk of seeming contrary, the answer is both 'yes' and 'no'. There are two books- both out of print, coincidentally- that I, a 15th C. afficianado, deem to be the Gospels according to the 1400s and both are in the same series- "The History of Fashion" series. The first one concentrates on late-gothic europe and the second concentrates on Italian dress c. 1400-1485. I have, as is my way, forgotten the names of these precious tomes but luckily for you and I, Mistress Jeanmaire owns *both* books and Baroness Clarissa owns the Italian one. I have had them both on the Inter-Loc book locating service for almost a year now and have yet to have either one become availiable. The only fault of these books- the thing that separates them from J.A.- is that there is little in the way of construction listed. Fabrics, yes. Terminology, yes. Illustration, *TONS*. Hairstyles even. But there just aren't enough of Phillip the Goods hand-me-downs out there for us to do the kind of construction analysis that Ms. Arnold does. These books hinge on painting and sculpture interpretation but they are the best sources that I am aware of. 'The Rennaissance Dress in Italy, 1400-1500' by Jaqueline Herald 1981 ISBN 0-7135-1294-6 'Late Gothic Europe, 1400-1500' by Margret Scott 1980 ISBN 0-263-06429-8 If you pay $75 for either of these, I don't believe you'd be paying too much. There is one other bright star in the quest for fine 15th C. knowledge, but it is hotly contested: The Medieval Soldier, by Gerry Embleton and John Howe 1994, ISBN 1-85915-036-5. This book is by another group of re-creationists called The Company of Saynte George; essentially a group of european (mainly Swiss and English) museum workers and medieval studies grad students who center all their research on Switzerland in the year 1460. IMHO, this book is nearly flawless and a must-have for anyone who is serious about the 15th C. And it's in print;) You may recognize Mr. Embletons name from his work on the popular Osprey Men-at-Arms series. It occurs to me that I have failed to mention *why* this book is contested at all. Its content is almost entirely photographically recorded replicas or interpretations of 15th C. pieces... hence, the garments you see are all tertiary sources. That's the bad news. The good news is that the folks who have done all this work are legitimate experts who work *only* in period materials. Much of the arms and armor is the real thing, on loan to employees of the establishments that house them (doesn't help us with *garments* per se, but you have to take these guys seriously). Dieterich Date: Sun, 31 Aug 1997 01:53:26 -0700 From: Brett and Karen Williams To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu Subject: Re: Books about costuming For a specific pattern-type book on SCA-period interest clothing for women, I would recommend three specific books, and a reference to a hard-to-find corollary volume for one of 'em: Arnold, Janet: Patterns of Fashion, the Cut and Construction of Clothes for Men and Women c. 1560-1620 ISBN 0-333-38284-6 This book is primary documentation together with secondary interpretation of cut and construction (after all, Janet Arnold did not take apart each garment to draft her patterns!). It has photographs of surviving garments from the period listed. It is later in period than the cotehardie, but fascinating nonetheless. Arnold mentions a forthcoming book on early period garments in the back of PoF, but to date has yet to deliver the goods. If you can find it, Robert Trump's "The Annotated Arnold", while written in a somewhat vitriolic manner, has some useful commentary on the problems inherent in some of Arnold's graphed patterns. It is not necessary to have this book, though, as long as one cautiously tries out the patterns in paper or cheap fabric FIRST, before cutting into one's own cloth. Hunnisett, Jean: Period Costume for Stage & Screen, patterns for Women's Dress, Medieval - 1500 ISBN 0-88734-653-7 I love this book! Hunnisett, Jean: Period Costume for Stage & Screen, patterns for Women's Dress, 1500 - 1800 ISBN 0-88734-610-3 I love this one, too! The latter two books are secondary source material, written by an extremely experienced and skilled theatrical costumer. While she is not particularly interested in precise historical reproduction (apparently, she wasn't even aware of this application of her books until after she published the second!), she is nonetheless extremely accurate in translating period shape and form to flat patterns. Compare the difference in cutting diagram between her houpelande sleeve and Hill & Bucknell's Evolution of Fashion, for example. (I won't repeat my rant on sleeves again....[grin]) I really like her sideless surcote patterns, too. I would also recommend that one seeks out copies of Compleat Anachronists #38, #39 and #40. Contained in 39 are extremely useful articles on how to construct, via slash-and-spread, period skirt pieces and sleeves-- and 39 and 40 point out errors in Hill & Bucknell's "Evolution of Fashion", a flawed and very common SCA source for costume cutting (as is Holkeboer, who somewhat shamelessly has taken a few of the EoF cutting methods and reproduced them, lock stock and barrel!). Most useful of all, in issue 39 is a very extensive Costume Bibliography, with commentary on each book from two very experienced and well-researched SCA costume Laurels. And if you're really feeling ambitious with the Interlibrary loan system, go for these: Crowfoot, Elisabeth; Pritchard, Frances; and Staniland, Kay: _Textiles and Clothing c. 1150-c. 1450; HMSO Publications; London, 1992 Newton, Stella Mary: _Fashion in the Age of the Black Prince_, Boydell Press, Suffolk, 1980 ISBN: 0847669394 and for a general survey book with a few tertiary pattern diagrams far superior to Holkeboer and Hill & Bucknell: Daily Life in Charcer's England, Geffrey L. Singman and Will McLean, ISBN 0-313-29375-9 Hope this helps! ciorstan Date: Sun, 31 Aug 1997 17:16:45 -0700 From: "KHvS" To: Subject: Re: Books about costuming Greetings, I don't think anyone has mentioned "The Encycolpedia of World Costume" by Doreen Yarwood. This book has what I think you are asking for. It is done aphabetically, but not chronologically. It does have definitions of types of dress in different periods (just not done chronologically). It was published by Bonanza Books in 1986 and has an ISBN of: 0-517-61943-1. You might go to a good book seller and see if they can find it for you. I cannot recall what I paid for my copy, but the dust cover says it was "Originally published at $32.50" It has only line drawings, but it would be a good starting point. Also, try going to the SCA arts & sciences page on the web for some good links to different kinds of things, costuming being only one of many. Also, I might suggest you look at Art History books, as SCA costuming is always based off of paintings. Most of the time, the artists painted biblical subjects in the clothing of their own time periods (they seemed to have great difficulty envisioning what they really wore in biblical times). Also, books on Medieval manuscripts will also be quite helpful. They won't give you actual patterns, but many dresses of the Medieval period are not too far off from modern ones and you could perhaps figure out a way to adapt on a pattern. Meisterin Katarina Helene von Schoenborn, OL (calligraphy & illumination) (mka: Helen Schultz -- Peru, IN) Date: Tue, 02 Sep 1997 13:07:16 -0500 From: mary boulet To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu Subject: books on costuming May I suggest this text as a good general reference for those new to historical costuming: History of Costume, by Blanche Payne, c.1965, Harper & Row, publ. I purchased this book for a costuming class at UNL about a dozen years ago. It is well illustrated, albeit in b/w, from primary sources, most of which are noted. It covers a broad range, from ancient Egypt up to the twentieth century, with 205 pages devoted to the SCA time period. The text introduces many specific costume terms, including cotehardie. BTW did you know the short version worn by the men is often called a courtepy? The text helps to establish the evolutionary nature of costume, and places each costume in its cultural/historical context. Its a good place to begin, and can help a newcomer focus on the costume era they will be most comfortable with, before they head out to the art library for more specific research. My own copy was purchased used for $27.50 from a college bookstore. I suspect other, more recent costume textbooks are on the market now. I would enquire of any college teaching costuming, whether through a textiles, clothing and design curriculum or a theatre curriculum, what texts they are now using. I refer to my copy of Payne frequently when I'm delving out of my own persona time frame. It's worth the small investment. Myra Nedlesaeng, Calontir Date: Tue, 9 Sep 1997 22:00:35 -0500 (CDT) From: Eloise Beltz-Decker To: Sca Arts List Subject: Moderately interesting costume book Thought I'd share, since the list seems kind of quiet :-> The book I managed to actually take out on my odyssey into the public library system, is Iris Brooke's _Medieval Theatre Costume_, published in 1963, originally. My copy's from '67. Library of Congress number is 67-25699, for those interested. And now on to the review. :-> Interesting - for the sketches, mainly. Construction-wise, it's meant for making good, sturdy garments that *look* medieval, but not necessarily constructed in a medieval manner. Its construction techniques and helpful tips are, however, meant for the sewer on a shoestring budget, and she explains all kinds of interesting things that might be of limited SCA use - like details about medieval ecclesiastical robes. Of much interest to SCAdians, however, are the multiple line-drawings in it, taken from period paintings; the explanations of same; and the rather long section on ... basic heraldry, of all things :-> Explanations of how to divide the shield, what vair and erminoise are, and other ground-floor stuff. Nothing a real herald would be too interested in, but nice for those of us that are just still wannabes :-> There's a section on footgear, a section on hats (including how to drape a wimple that's *real*, and why you don't use nun's patterns for them). All of it is meant to be kicked around, since it's for the theatre, and there's hints on getting used to moving with a sword on your belt and the like. The one I have is missing several color plates, one of which (according to later pages that refer to it) is a diagram of where to measure people to fit clothes properly to them. -- Eloise Beltz-Decker eloise at ripco.com Date: Tue, 18 Nov 1997 21:30:30 -0800 From: Michelle Meinhold To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu Subject: Re: Costume Research Here are some great books that do have pictures to look at. You can get these from Barnes & Noble or maybe other bookstores in your area. "The Chronicle of Western Fashion - From Ancient Times to the Present Day" by John Peacock "20,000 Years of Fashion - The History of Costume & Personal Adornment" by Francois Boucher "The Historical Encyclopedia of Costumes" by Albert Racinet "Racinet's Full-Color Pictorial History of Western Costume" by Auguste Racinet The last book is an inexpensive book to buy. The other three are quite expensive...they cost about $50.00 a piece. Giovanna Mocenigo Date: Tue, 18 Nov 1997 19:01:35 +0000 From: Karen at agent.infodata.com (Harris, Karen) To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu Subject: Re: More books Vitale wrote: > My ex had a book that we got at a Renn fair, while in LA. It was a book > about the same size and quality as the KWH, but was about Elizabethan > costuming. Of course I can't remember the exact title. > > Does anyone recognise the book I am talking about? Is it in general > publication? Title: ELIZABETHAN COSTUMING FOR THE YEARS 1550-1580 Authors: Janet Winter & Carolyn Savoy Publisher: Other Times Publications, 361 60th Street, Dept. T, Oakland, CA 94618 Nope, haven't heard of it ;) I bought my copy at the Folger Shakespeare Library for $15.00 US. You can buy it directly from the publisher for this price plus $1.50 shipping and handling. I really do like this book, and it's an excellent primer for Elizabethan costuming. It's not the be-all and end-all, but it will give you a running start. :) Karen Larsdatter Barony of Ponte Alto, Atlantia Date: Thu, 20 Nov 1997 10:20:47 -0600 (CST) From: Lorine S Horvath To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu Subject: Re: Costume Research Try Anglo-saxon dress and accessories by Gale Owen Crocker. It is one of the best sources I know of for pre-1066 northern european garb. Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 07:43:07 -0700 From: Nancy Lynch To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu Subject: Re: Costume Research For more early info I can recommend the following: "COSTUME AND FASHION, The Evolution of European Dress Through the Earlier Ages"; Herbert Norris, JM Dent and Sons Any of several different books or articles by Margrethe Hald including; "Primitive Shoes" Prehistoric Textiles by E.J.W. Barber Geschichte des Kostums by Erika Theil (in German :) ...and the bibliographies in these books. Sonas ort! (Happiness on you!) Mistress Lughbec Date: Sun, 23 Nov 1997 21:12:44 -0500 (EST) From: To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu Subject: Re: Costume Research An interesting book on Turkish garb is: _Women's Costume ofr the Near and Middle East_ Jennifer Scarce If you need it, I have ISBN number around here somewhere. Noemi Date: Wed, 26 Nov 1997 08:02:45 +0000 From: "Nancy Dalton" To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu Subject: Re: Costume Research Please be careful when researching clothing. The best sources would be archaeological journals talking about clothes found at digs or in graves. For 1300s England a good book is "Fashion in the Age of the Black Prince". (I don't have it myself or I'd include the ISBN.) For 1150-1450 England try "Medieval Finds from Excavations in London: Textiles and Clothing c.1150-1450" ISBN 0 11 290445 9 Good secondary sources would be manuscripts or artwork from the time period. A lot of those can be found on the Web with some searching through places like the Labyrinth. (although be careful about religious figures: saints, Joseph, Mary, etc.) "20,000 Years of Fashion" is a good source because it uses and presents archaeological information along with period artwork to analyze the clothing. Several other authors, Racinet and Peacock to name a few, redrew the artwork in their own image of what the clothing and human body should look like. Racinet is a good source for determining what the Victorians thought medieval clothing looked like. In his defense, the technology at the time did not allow the duplication of artwork to be printed in books, so all artwork that one wanted put in a book had to be redrawn. Peacock and Racinet are very poor costuming sources, they are inaccurate in different ways and places that are hard to predict or find without seeing the original work that they drew from. It's a lot of fun working with flat pieces of fabric for hours until they're transformed into an outfit that not only looks good on somebody, but looks just like one in a particular painting. Happy Costuming, Nancy Dalton ska Earnwynn van Zwaluwenburg From: schuldy at abel.harvard.edu (Mark Schuldenfrei) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: [SCA] BOOK WANTED: "Ancient Danish Textiles" Date: 28 Apr 1998 14:28:09 GMT Gwen Morse wrote: The librarians are having trouble finding it because it's not listed in the Library of Congress. They are apparently working on it, though. In any event, I would like to own a copy. You need a better class of librarian. I found it online at http://lcweb2.loc.gov/catalog/booksquery.html in a few seconds. This is the Library of Congress listing. Tibor Olddanske tekstiler. English Ancient Danish textiles from bogs and burials : a comparative study of costume and Iron Age textiles by Margrethe Hald ; [translated by Jean Olsen]. [Copenhagen] : National Museum of Denmark, c1980. 398 p. : ill. (some col.) ; 30 cm. Bibliography: p. [394]-398. Translation of Olddanske tekstiler. Series: Publications of the National Museum. Archaeological-historical series ; v. 21 Subjects: Iron age--Denmark. Textile fabrics--Denmark--History. Costume--Denmark--History. Costume--History--To 500. Denmark--Antiquities. Call Number LCCN Dewey Decimal ISBN/ISSN GN780.22.D4 H3413 1980 82200893 //r97 677/.009489 8748003123 -- Mark Schuldenfrei (schuldy at math.harvard.edu) From: mmy at innocent.com (mmy) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: [SCA] BOOK WANTED: "Ancient Danish Textiles" Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 07:08:19 GMT On Mon, 27 Apr 1998 23:28:07 GMT, goldmoon at geocities.com (Gwen Morse) wrote: >I am in desperate need of finding the following book. I have it >registered with some book searches, and it has still NOT turned up. I >thought I might ask among those who would be most likely to have it... >Anyone willing to sell their copy??? Anyone have a lead on where to >DEFINATELY find a copy? It is out of print. Oh, yes, I need the >ENGLISH edition! > >"Ancient Danish Textiles from Bogs and Burials" >by Margrethe Hald >ISBN- 87-480-0312-3 It's not at all out of print. I just bought a copy two months ago from the National museum of Denmark. They're on the web, www.natmus.dk, with an email link to their shop. And yes, that was the english edition. be warned, it's expensive. /mmy Date: Fri, 15 May 1998 12:05:56 -0400 (EDT) From: Marybeth Lavrakas To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu Subject: Re: Book question >The other day I was looking at books in print, and I came across a >reference to "Dress in the Middle Ages" by Fran=87oise Piponnier and >Perrine Mane, Yale University Press, 1998, $25. ISBN 0-300-06906-5. >Has anyone seen this book? I was wondering if it is worth buying. >Kathy/Katerina Yes, I've read this book. It's a very basic survey, with sadly few pictures. I don't think it's worth buying for $25.00 (I got mine free, so I'm happy enough). As a matter of fact, I thought it surprisingly lightweight for a University Press book (especially Yale!) Kathryn Rous Date: Fri, 15 May 1998 19:45:16 -0400 (EDT) From: Carol Thomas To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu Subject: Re: Book question >The other day I was looking at books in print, and I came across a >reference to "Dress in the Middle Ages" by Fran=87oise Piponnier and >Perrine Mane, Yale University Press, 1998, $25. ISBN 0-300-06906-5. >Has anyone seen this book? I was wondering if it is worth buying. It has good text (according to a friend who is a costumer) and few pictures, small and b&w. Whether it is worth buying probably depends on the reader's level of expertise and background. It filled in a number of gaps and questions for my friend. It does not look like a beginner's book to me. I started reading it & want to finish just for general background, and find it well written (some of these books are like wading through mud). Lady Carllein Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 07:50:20 PDT From: "T Cardy" To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu Subject: Re: Is this book any good? >I was thinking of buying this book,Costume Technicians Handbook by Rosemary >Ingham, I've heard that it is good but what exactly is in it? > >Anna de Byxe I have taught university costume classes using her book as the text book. Her attention to detail is good and offers quite a complete coverage of the theatre costumer's arts. The book does go into depth in some techniques. The key thing to remember, is that the book is a costume technicians handbook - short cuts, non period stuff, and a big chunk of the book is specifically dedicated to theatre techniques. It is a marvelous reference book, and offers a lot of basic information that can get you started easily in learning new techniques. Timothy Van Vlear Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 00:53:54 -0500 From: Gwen Morse To: SCA-ARTS at UKANS.EDU, h-costume-digest at indra.com Subject: Book Review: A History of Costume [SCA] "A History of Costume" by Naomi Tarrant National Museums of Scotland (1994) Purchased for $24.95 through Amazon.com My comments: Very few books can be useful to more than one time period or region of historical costuming research. This volume is one that is. The book starts out with a short discussion of skin garments, works through early peplos or bog-style dresses, and continues through the various centuries to modern clothing. It touches upon fabric weaving styles, various types of material, stitches and alternative fastenings, pattern layout and cutting methods, differences between male and female clothing, ect. There is no in-depth coverage of any one particular topic, but the varied nuggets of information would be of use to many different re-enactors based in general European or Early American cultures. I would suggest this book as an invaluable starting place for new garb makers. In particular, it collects information from many singularly useful sources into one place (an early Anglo-Saxon garment, the Greenland gown, when machine-sewn garments became widespread, examples of stitch types, short discussions on natural dyes, fiber and weave types, etc). I bought this book because I heard about it on one of the lists, and was curious about it. I fell in love with in after a few minutes of reading it. I want to stress again that it's greatest strength is the range of topics it covers - it would be of equal use to a Medieval or a Regency or a Victorian re-enactor/costumer. --- Gwen Morse // mailto:goldmoon%40geocities.com Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 13:18:26 +0200 From: Jessica Tiffin To: SCA-ARTS at UKANS.EDU Subject: Re: "Costume" Book resources >I am fairly new to the SCA and am really interested in Garb designing and >sewing. I would like to further my knowledge of period garb and styles. I am >thinking of purchasing the following books and would appreciate any insight or >opinions on their credibility as a resource. They are: >2) "Historic Costumes in Pictures" (Braun & Schneider) I'd be a bit dubious of this one - as far as I know, it's a work written in the Victorian age, and while there are lots of pictures, their accuracy is a bit debatable by modern standards. (The dreaded Victorian tendency to romanticise!). No original sources, all redrawn. >3) "Medieval Costume in England and France: The 13th, 14th, & 15th Centuries" >(Mary G. Houston) This is _wonderful_ because she gives construction diagrams for the various garments - the book has a "Construction" chapter for each century, and also a chapter on embroidery designs. Her main problem is that she redraws all her pictures - the book contains no reproductions of original sources, so you're looking at her interpretations. On the other hand, she does tell you where she's redrawn them from in most cases. I personally think that the advantages of this book outweigh the drawbacks. Melisant Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 12:58:48 EST From: To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu Subject: Re: Costume resources For a great book that gives an overall view of texiles and has an fantastic list of references and sources is TEXTILES 5,000 years. Edited by Jennifer Harris isbn 0-8109-3875-8. A good friend is a historical costumer who has done work for various museumns and she raves about this book. Borrow it from your local library as it is rather expensive. Jeanne de La Mer Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 17:40:35 -0500 (EST) From: Jenne Heise To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu Subject: Re: "Costume" Book resources On Sun, 10 Jan 1999, Jessica Tiffin wrote: > >2) "Historic Costumes in Pictures" (Braun & Schneider) > I'd be a bit dubious of this one - as far as I know, it's a work written in > the Victorian age, and while there are lots of pictures, their accuracy is a > bit debatable by modern standards. (The dreaded Victorian tendency to > romanticise!). No original sources, all redrawn. Braun & Schneider is also available on the web at: http://www.siue.edu/COSTUMES/COSTUME1_INDEX.HTML Jadwiga Zajaczkowa (Shire of Eisental; HERMS Cyclonus), mka Jennifer Heise jenne at tulgey.browser.net Date: Sat, 24 Apr 1999 14:35:00 -0500 From: KATHARINE WHISLER To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu Subject: Juan de Alcega Today my copy of "Tailor's Pattern Book 1589" arrived in the mail. I am very excited, this is a reissue of the 1978 edition which has been unavailable for so long! The book is a facsimile with translation of "Libro de Geometria, Pratica Y Traca" (Book of the Practice of Tailoring-- Measuring and Marking Out) by Juan de Alcega, printed in Madrid in 1589. Alcega was a master tailor. The book was apparently intended as a guide for journeymen tailors, to help them figure out economical ways of cutting out garments, as well as giving them diagrams for some standard styles of garment. For each garment, there is a cutting diagram (much like the cutting diagrams that come with modern patterns), an estimate as to how much fabric is required (in Castillian ells) and brief directions on how the garment goes together. He also includes charts to help figure out how much fabric is needed based on desired length of the garment and fabric width. In "Patterns of Fashion" Janet Arnold cites this book extensively, though she complains that the translation is not as perfect as it could be, because the translators were not costume scholars. Here's a great opportunity for any Spanish-speaking costumers out there. I believe that the book is extremely useful even if the translation is not flawless. The 3/4 of the book is a facsimile of the original, the remaining 1/4 is a translation, glossary, and notes (including a conversion table for Castillian ells to centimeters). The book contains diagrams for 73 garments, plus a diagram for a "war banner," and two diagrams for "silk saddle trappings for jousts." The garments are for men and women (and two for girls). The men's garments include ceremonial cloaks and church vestments. At any rate, you can either ask your local bookstore to order it for you, or order it direct from the publisher (as I did). The details are: Tailor's Pattern Book, 1589: Libro de Geometria, Pratica y Traca by Alcega, Juan de Pain, J.(Tr.); Bainton, C.(Tr.); Nevinson, J.L. (Ed.) Costume & Fashion Press (an imprint of Quite Specific Media Group Ltd.) [or Ruth Bean Publishers, if you are in the U.K.] February 1999 ISBN: 0-89676-234-3 [0-90358-531-6 for U.K. edition] To order directly from the U.S. publisher: Quite Specific Media Group, Ltd. Attn: Ralph Pine 260 Fifth Avenue, Suite 703 New York, NY 10001 (212)725-5377, fax (212)725-8506 email: info at quitespecificmedia.com www.quitespecificmedia.com The book costs $40 + shipping, and is a paperback. The fact that it is a paperback is my only problem with the book. Even though it is reasonably well-bound for a paperback, paperbacks never wear as well as a hardback book, and I intend to continue studying this book for a long time to come. Kathy Whisler (Katerina Arondel) Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2000 16:59:53 -0400 From: Irene leNoir To: Subject: Re: PERIOD cloak clasps Before I wrote: >There are lots of pictures of various statues dating from >around the 13th and 14th century showing women wearing >cloaks. >Unfortunately, I can't think off-hand where you can find >pictures of them. Well, I've now found a book that's a good start. A Visual History of Costume: The Fourteenth and Fifteenth Centuries Margaret Scott It has _lots_ of photos of these types of statues. Jessica Clark SCA: Irene leNoir irene at ici.net Date: Fri, 19 May 2000 16:38:44 -0600 From: "Morgan" To: Subject: Re: good basic garb books? >> * Basic intro to historic costuming - not necessarily terribly accurate, but provides a general survey over a wide range of time and locale to allow the newcomer to get a sense of what they would be interested in. > >Jadwiga Zajaczkowa, mka Jennifer Heise jenne at tulgey.browser.net Try: _A Pictorial History of Costume_ by Wolfgang Bruhn & Mike Tilke ISBN 0 517 65832 1 _Patterns for Theatrical Costumes_ by Kathrine Strand Holkeboer ISBN 0 13 654278 6 and The Musuem of London has a series of books; of interest to your group: "Textiles & Clothing" and "Dress Accessories" There is also the different pamphlets in the Complete Anachronist (Seams Like Old Times, Sewing to a T) Caointiarn Date: Thu, 26 Oct 2000 15:08:02 -0600 From: Mary Denise Smith To: SCA-ARTS at UKANS.EDU Subject: Mistress Drea's book, "The Well Dress'd Peasant" is available Mistress Drea Pelligrini (Drea Leed)'s new book, "The Well Dress'd Peasant: 16th Century Flemish Working Women's Dress" has gone to press, as she announced last week. This is just a reminder that the special pre-publication price of $15 with free shipping is only available through tomorrow, Friday October 27. After that it will go to its regular retail price of $20 + $5 shipping. The book can be picked up at Known World Costume Symposium on November 4, or it will be mailed out after November 10. Support your fellow costumer and order early and often at http://www.costumemag.com Thanks! Mary Denise Smith/Lady Marged Tylluan Fach Costume & Dressmaker Press Date: Wed, 8 Nov 2006 22:01:12 -0500 From: Jadwiga Zajaczkowa / Jenne Heise Subject: [SCA-AS] guidebook for costumers To: Arts and Sciences in the SCA , EK Arts & Science list , laurels at fiedlerfamily.net For those in the US, this text may be worth looking at: _Clothing and Textile Collections in the United States: A CSA Guide_. By Sally Queen and Vicki L. Berger. 2006. 424p. Texas Tech. Univ. $39.95 0-89672-572-3 there's no specific index by type of garment/textile, but it got an overall good review from Booklist. I haven't seen it, just the review. -- -- Jadwiga Zajaczkowa, Knowledge Pika jenne at fiedlerfamily.net From: "Tina Michael" Date: December 18, 2008 6:52:37 PM CST To: "Kingdom of Ansteorra - SCA, Inc." Subject: Re: [Ansteorra] costume book query Yep, that's the one I would have recommended, too. Not a bad little book. Good clear and large pictures for those of us with a visual nature and the patterns aren't too hard to figure out and scale up. I also like the idea of showing the various sleeve styles and trim patterns for the styles. Definitely not an Art/ Sci reference but handy none the less. Tina aka Tudor Barbie On Thu, Dec 18, 2008 at 1:22 PM, Chiara Francesca < chiara.francesca at gmail.com> wrote: The only book that comes to mind with _light blue cover_ and had all the patterns drawn out and scaled is: Patterns for Theatrical Costumes: Garments, Trims, and Accessories from Ancient Egypt to 1915 http://www.amazon.com/Patterns-Theatrical-Costumes-Garments-Accessories/dp/0896761258/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1229627566&sr=1-1 It is my standard book for new comers to get started, a primer if you will. From this book they can do further research using the bibliog. at the back referencing other books and paintings that inspired the patterns. Chiara Francesca From: "Nancy" Date: April 8, 2009 9:26:40 AM CDT To: Subject: [Bryn-gwlad] new book for those Tudor gentlemen Highly recommend this book which is done by the people who brought you The Tudor Tailor. Seriously great research. Clare St. John THE KING’S SERVANTS: Men’s dress at the accession of Henry VIII
Caroline Johnson (editors: Jane Malcolm-Davies & Ninya Mikhaila)
 
FAT GOOSE PRESS is pleased to announce the publication of a new book offering a detailed insight into 
clothing at the beginning of the 16th century. The King’s Servants provides a vivid picture of Henry’s early 
court using evidence from royal warrants and account books in The National Archive. Caroline Johnson’s 
transcriptions and translations of more than two hundred hand-written pages of the original 16th century Latin 
and English documents have revealed a wealth of fascinating facts about expenditure on garments for servants 
at the Tudor court. The typical clothes worn by middling men during the decades between the battles of 
Bosworth (1485) and Flodden (1513) are described and reconstructed in this beautifully illustrated book. 
 
Previously unpublished documents, including bundles of orders for clothes, and parchment books recording 
payments to such people as mercers, drapers, tailors, cordwainers and silkwomen, are carefully analysed to 
provide details of the usual allocation of dress to different ranks of servants at the royal court. The book focuses 
on the middle-ranking men who were clerks, messengers and huntsmen. There is also information on trends 
in men’s fashion at the turn of the century as the documents investigated demonstrate Henry VII’s expenditure 
as well as his son’s. A noteworthy inclusion is an early livery issued to Henry VII’s newly-founded Yeomen of 
the Guard, who were resplendent in green and white damask coats embellished with lavish gold embroidery. 
 
The book offers a survey of relevant pictorial sources such as effigies, brasses and stained glass plus rare 
glimpses of archaeological artefacts from the late 15th and early 16th century. These, together with the archival 
information, have provided sufficient evidence for reconstructions of the typical royal servant’s every day 
wardrobe to be made and these are illustrated in high-quality colour photographs. The book also features 
comprehensive patterns for a man’s complete costume during the early Tudor period. These were devised by 
Ninya Mikhaila with other experienced costumiers, including Sarah Thursfield (The Medieval Tailor’s 
Assistant) and Jane Huggett (Clothes of the Common Woman, 1480-1580).
 
The book features: 
 
• 48 pages with colour illustrations throughout 
• Detailed line drawings and diagrams by Michael Perry 
• Sumptuous full-colour photographs by Henrietta Clare 
• Patterns for shirts, doublet, hose, coats and hat with advice on appropriate fabrics 
 and comprehensive making instructions
 
To pre-order an advance copy of The King’s Servants (usual price £15 plus postage and packing) at a special price of:
 
£14 (UK and Europe) including postage and packing
or
£16 (rest of the world) including postage and packing
 
Please visit The Tudor Tailor’s website at www.tudortailor.com 

Payments by Paypal or UK cheque are accepted.
 
The official release of The King’s Servants is planned for June 2009. If you have already pre-ordered from our website in the last few days, please accept our apologies for this email. Thank you for ordering the new book!
 
 From: "Nancy" Date: April 8, 2009 9:34:49 AM CDT To: Subject: [Bryn-gwlad] web site I forgot to include their web site. Although they are in England, they accept PayPal so it’s quite easy to get things from them. Check out their patterns as well. http://www.tudortailor.com/index.htm Clare From: countessdulcia at gmail.com Subject: Re: {TheTriskeleTavern} Tudor Patterns Date: December 14, 2011 7:35:22 AM CST To: the-triskele-tavern at googlegroups.com <<< And I just got Norris's "Tudor Costume and Fashion" which is a Dover Book. I'm reading up on Tudor myself--Anyone know how good a resource this is? >>> You need to be very careful with all of Herbert Norris' costume books. In spite of the modern publication dates in the front of the books and listed on websites like Amazon.com, Herbert Norris was a late 19th and early 20th century costume designer who died in 1950. He designed historically inspired theater costumes and stage sets for plays, films, and pageants. He worked in an era when archaeologists simply were not interested in clothing remains and deposits. Unless the clothing remains were both expensive and mostly preserved, textiles found in archaeological digs were boxed up for looking at later (which rarely happened) or simply disposed of. The 1959 excavation of the so called "Queen Arnegunde" grave by archaeologists Michel Fleury and Albert France-Lanord marked and important turning point in the treatment of textile remains because it was one of the first excavations where the archaeologists did make some attempts to study the textiles and draw some conclusions from them. Of course, since this kind of study was in its infancy and they weren't really focusing on the textiles, a lot of the conclusions they drew (and published) have later been found to be partially (and sometimes fully) incorrect. They also boxed up the textiles "for further study". The cardboard boxes full of completely decayed and destroyed textile samples were found in a pile in Michel Fleury's non-climate controlled office after his death in 2002. The boxes hadn't been opened since they were stacked 40+ years before. New textile experts have been trying to glean more information from the scraps, but that's a different discussion. =) Back to Norris... His work was for the theatre and movies and his goal was to produce outfits that people of the time visually identified with the period in mind, but also found attractive in to their modern sensibilities. If you think about what that means, the most obvious thing is that all figures are redrawn to the ideal figures of the time. Think about Elizabeth Taylor playing Cleopatra, or any other actress then or now. They are more interested in being attractive and "sexy" than they are in really looking like they live in whatever period of history, and it shows in the costuming. He was also working for theatre construction techniques - how to replicate a look quickly and easily, NOT how it was actually done in period. In general his diagrams are not only wasteful of fabric, they rarely really work to create a truly comfortable, long wearing, and properly fitting garment. He also doesn't give enough pattern diagrams to help most beginners, and non-beginners should be beyond what he provides. Many times I have found his observations and suppositions about things to be not just incomplete but just plain wrong. Then again, he wasn't worried about getting it "right", just how to make it look close enough. He doesn't provide any photographs of original works of art - everything is redrawn (which makes it secondary and tertiary sources at best), and if you put his re-drawings next to the originals you'll find that he not only changed the proportions of the figures (so that all the women look like they are wearing a Victorian or early 20th century corset and all the men are thin with broad shoulders and narrow waists!), but he changes many elements of the costumes and accessories as well. He claims to base everything he says on period evidence, but he rarely provides the sources for that evidence. He is also notorious for taking a few pieces of evidence that support his pet theories, ignoring other evidence, and drawing elaborate conclusions. He is not clear about when and where his evidence stops and his suppositions begin though, so you have be careful. I've heard it said that you just have to know where he is correct and then avoid using all the parts where he's not. In my opinion, if you already know enough to know when he's correct and when he's not, you don't need his books, and if you don't know that much, you sure aren't gonna' figure it out by reading Norris. On the other hand, Norris does have his uses. I own the three books that apply to the SCA timeline (Ancient, Medieval, and Tudor). I find that they are most useful when used as a tool for narrowing down when a particular fashion appeared, or for helping new people choose a period, by flipping through all the pictures. On the other hand, I have a number of other books that are also really only useful for that as well (Racinet, Holkeboer, Hill & Bucknell, Braun & Schneider, etc... there are a lot of them!). What makes Norris more useful in that sense is that he spends time on the transitions from one fashion high point to the next, whereas most of the gloss sources only hit the fashion high points. You can find the general period of something (as long as it's English, French or occasionally German or Spanish) and then know which of the better sources to look in, or the timeline of art you need to look at. So... glean what you can from it, but check EVERYTHING against good sources. Just my opinions based on my experience, Dulcia Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2014 16:18:14 +0000 From: "Groff, Garth G. (ggg9y)" To: "Merry Rose (atlantia at seahorse.atlantia.sca.org)" Subject: [MR] New Book on 14th C. Clothing, Sort of Noble friends, especially costume mavens: Just processed at the UVA library: CHAUCER AND ARRAY, PATTERS OF COSTUME AND FABRIC RHETORIC IN THE CANTERBURY TALES, TROILUS AND CRISEYDE AND OTHER WORKS by Laura F. Hodges (ISBN 9781843843689; our call number PR1868 .P9 H63 2014). I admit to not knowing much about medieval clothing, or Chaucer for that matter, but this is a book that might of great interest to Scadian costumers, especially those interested in 14th and 15th century costume from England and France. I mention both centuries, and both countries, because some illustrations are from illuminated manuscripts drawn somewhat later than Chaucer's time, and come from both nations. One supposes that, as was often the case in biblical-themed works of the time, they model garments contemporary to the date of the artwork, and in the style from the countries of the artists' origins. In sampling the text, I see that the author has gone into great detail explaining the various pieces of clothing worn by the literary characters. For example, Chaucer describes Thopa's hose "Of Brugges were his hosen broun." This leads the author into an interesting discussion of whether these were of Flemish wool or lesser quality unbleached Flemish linen known as "Holland brown." The book features a number of line drawings of various surviving garments similar to Chaucer's descriptions, with eight pages of glorious color plates from illuminations. This looks like a great book for lovers of Chaucer, or those interested learning the minute details of medieval clothing. Lord Mungo Napier, The Archer of Mallard Lodge Edited by Mark S. Harris clothing-books-msg Page 45 of 45