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cloaks-msg - 5/6/12


Cloaks, cloak pins and clasps.


NOTE: See also the files: AS-Cloaks-art, raingear-msg, headgear-msg, aprons-msg, patterns-msg, cl-academic-msg, jewelry-msg, fasteners-msg.





This file is a collection of various messages having a common theme that I  have collected from my reading of the various computer networks. Some messages date back to 1989, some may be as recent as yesterday.


This file is part of a collection of files called Stefan's Florilegium. These files are available on the Internet at: http://www.florilegium.org


I have done  a limited amount  of  editing. Messages having to do  with separate topics  were sometimes split into different files and sometimes extraneous information was removed. For instance, the  message IDs  were removed to save space and remove clutter.


The comments made in these messages are not necessarily my viewpoints. I make  no claims  as  to the accuracy  of  the information  given  by the individual authors.


Please respect the time  and  efforts of  those who have written  these messages. The copyright status  of these messages  is  unclear  at this time. If information  is  published  from  these  messages, please give credit to the originator(s).


Thank you,

   Mark S. Harris                  AKA:  THLord Stefan li Rous

                                         Stefan at florilegium.org



From: trifid at agora.rain.com (Roadster Racewerks)

Date: 24 May 91 01:02:12 GMT

Organization: Open Communications Forum


The infamous "Bucknell's" gives as part of the garb of a woman of the 1300s a

"Pelicon" (I can't reproduce the proper "c"), a long cloak with large attached

hood. Page 29 of the 1967 edition of "Evolution of Fashion: Pattern and cut

from 1066 to 1930", Hill and Bucknell. It is a  full circle design with small

slits for the use of the arms. I have also seen Ren. scholar's cloaks with

hoods (the antecedents of our mundane professors' gowns) and without. It is

true that earlier medieval cloaks and cowls most probably had detached hoods

(the ones with the long tails) which can be hard to distinguish in illustrations

if the two were of the same material.


I realize "Bucknell's" isn't the end of the controversy...





From: cjcannon at ucdavis.edu (1/7/94)

To: Mark Harris

RE>Fabric Questions


Unto Lord Stefan li rous, Greetings:


On Thu, 6 Jan 1994, Mark Harris wrote:


> Greetings unto Carol,


> In article <Pine.3.89.9401031207.B5093-0100000 at othello.ucdavis.edu> you


> >  I got a very kind reply from Beorthwine of Grafham Wood, Midrealm,

referring me to the archaeological

> >literature on the subject and I thank him for it, but it leads me to

> >clarify one of the questions I had.  What I intended to ask in regard to

> >cloak pins is whether anyone knows of a SCAdian/mundane merchant who

> >either handmakes (all you smiths out there, for example) or a merchant

> >who sells a fair selection of cloak pins for purchase, since I am not set

> >up to manufacture my own.  Thanks for your time!


> Have you gotten any answers to your request for sources for cloak clasps?


Two--the one who said 'any major event' and the one with the address,

address below:


   Joanna <hosten at nature.berkeley.edu>   whose husband is starting up

his own custom jewellery business.  His phone #:  (510) 674-8544.  She

says it would be best to phone him directly and that he's in & out, so

please--leave that message on the voice mail recorder.


> Are you looking for buckle types or the Celtic C shaped pins? The latter

> is fairly easy to make, but won't penetrate and hold up a heavy cloak.


I'd thought the Celtic would be more in line with Katie's 14th century

Irishwoman persona, but perhaps I ought to reconsider, given your

experience with the types.

> I have been using a decorative ladies belt buckle to hold a heavy cloak

> together. Unfortunately, I've just broken my second set. I was hoping that

> someone might have pointed you toward a heavy duty cloak clasp.


According to Joanna, her spouse could make it to order, so all you

should need to do is specify how heavy, or what gauge/whatever, I should

think. Good Luck to You!  And thanks for your suggestions/comments.  If

I get more addresses for merchants closer to you, or who say they'll be

at Pennsic, I'll let you know.


As always,




From: data at eden.rutgers.edu (Rosemary Goodheart)

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

Subject: Re: Cloaks

Date: 14 Nov 1994 17:33:54 -0500

Organization: Rutgers University


Well, there are plenty of places to get cloak patterns.  The pattern I use is

from a mundane fabric shop.  Look in the costume section of the pattern books

for medieval or Robin Hood patterns, or something like that.  It's actually

quite possible to make some nice garb from these patterns if you know how to

make the right alterations.  (Of course, some of them are just so cheesy that

there's no hope for them.


If you use a costume cloak pattern, and want a lined cloak, just cut out the

pattern in both the cloak fabric and the lining fabric, then sew them together.

I have been told, however, that you should just sew the sides and neck together

and leave the bottom open, hemming the cloak and lining seperately.  This is

because, over time, the fabrics will stretch unevenly, and eventually will

cause a cloak that's seamed together on the bottom to hang funny.


Good luck!!!



Rosemary Goodheart                                        YYY     YYY

data at eden.rutgers.edu                                     | |YYYYY| |

                            at )--->----;-----              |_|__n__|_|



From: nataliae at aol.com (Natalia E)

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

Subject: Re: Cloaks

Date: 15 Nov 1994 22:45:04 -0500

Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)


There is a Very Easy Very Vogue 7110 pattern for a woman's cloak, which

works perfectly fine for a simple cloak pattern.  I made both my lord's

and my own cloak from it and I just learned how to sew this year.  Try it

out and you might find it will be just right.  Good luck.





From: connect at aol.com (CONNECT)

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

Subject: Re: Cloaks

Date: 18 Nov 1994 15:00:06 -0500

Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)


In article <3m9uVc1w165w at bregeuf.stonemarche.org>,

una at bregeuf.stonemarche.org (Honour Horne-Jaruk) writes:


I would like any information you can find on when and where capes

(floor length or so) with attached hoods were used in pre-17th cent.

western Europe.

I've got great docs. on thigh-length and shorter cloak/hood combined

(The Picts had a neat one- looks amazingly like a cloaked Kewpie doll) but

nothing from original sources on hooded capes. (No, I don't trust re-drawn

costume books... how could you tell?)



Have you looked at the Janet Arnold book? She's got very elaborate designs

for several styles of cloaks. I think the one you're most likely to be

interested in is 1560-80 Crimson Velvet Circular or Compass Cloak.


This is from Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashion c1560-1620--a must for any

serious sewer/costumer.


Pattie Rayl




Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

From: foxd at silver.ucs.indiana.edu (daniel fox)

Subject: Re: Cloaks

Organization: Indiana University

Date: Sun, 20 Nov 1994 07:59:04 GMT


A hooded cloak is shown in C. Willet and Phyllis Cunnington's _Handbook of

English Costume in the Sixteenth Century_.  (Page 105) According to

the Cunningtons they were known as Spanish cloaks at that time.

My copy of The Cunnington's _Handbook of English Medieval Costume_

is missing, but as I recall one of the Anglo Saxon ladies is shown wearing

a cloak that is draped over her head.  This could be a mistake by the

copyist (the Cunnington's illustrations are good, but not perfect) or it

could be a hood misdrawn by the original artist, or it could be a cloak

worn draped over the head.....


Audelindis de Rheims, OL, OW



From: Wendy Chadwick <wendyc at Mars.mcs.com>

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

Subject: Re: Wet-Weather Cloaks (fabric)

Date: Tue, 31 Jan 1995 12:42:31 -0600 (CST)

Organization: MCSNet Services


On 31 Jan 1995, Erin Kenny GMSI wrote:

(Talking about wool for cloaks)


> This is great for most people, but does anyone have good suggestions for

> cloak material for people allergic to wool?


If you want to try synthetics you might try polarfleece as the lining

with supplex or similar outerwear fabric on the outside.  I have several

sources if you need it.


Irene von Schmetterling

Wendy Chadwick

wendyc at MCS.COM



From: powers at cis.ohio-state.edu (william thomas powers)

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

Subject: Re: Cloaks/Capes

Date: 7 Feb 1995 17:12:37 -0500

Organization: The Ohio State University, Department of Computer and Information Science


In article <3h8mq1$8nv at dropit.pgh.net> jtd at news.pgh.net (John T. Dow) writes:

>      Although I'm not in the SCA (yet :) I've recently discovered the

>usefulness of a cloak as opposed to a coat for warmth (particularly

>around the house. And stop looking at me as if I'm nuts please. :)


> What I'm wondering about now are closures. (Tying vs. buttoning

>vs. ?????)  Anyone have a preferred type? A type you REALLY REALLY

>hate? Anything at all is helpful. (Any other bits of cloak making

>advice would be welcome as well. :) Thanks.


I do not like frogs--they did not age gracefully.

I do not like buttons/button holes.

I do not like ties-- no fun to try to undo when wet and pulled too tight.


I prefer using a Pen-annular Broach..  For my fine weaves I have used a

bodkin to seperate the material and made a small round "buttonhole" on

each side for the pin to use.  For my coarse weave plaid I just go betwixt

the threads.


wilelm the smith; who oft teaches a penannular broach class at Pennsic...  



From: jeffs at math.bu.EDU (Jeff Suzuki)

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

Subject: wool etc.

Date: 8 Feb 1995 13:57:47 -0500

Organization: The Internet


>> This is great for most people, but does anyone have good suggestions for

>> cloak material for people allergic to wool?

>>1.     Wool with a lining, and a collar made of the lining fabric.

>        Even with a lining, the wool makes me sneeze, especially when wet.


Watch out for lining wool cloaks.  (I have a wool cloak, lined, and

I'm allergic to wool as well)  The problem is that if your lining is

not thick enough, wool fibers will work their way through the lining.

(Next wool cloak I make is going to be double lined)


>3.     Fur (on the inside).


Bleah. Okay, I don't believe in fur.  (Leather, yes, because the cows

are raised for reasons other than their "fur" --- leather is a

byproduct of the meat industry)  Here's a situation where I can see a

good argument against using a period material, based on a simple,

moral choice.  (And before I get flamed, yes, it's _my_ choice, and

I'm not going to enforce it on anyone else)  


William the Alchymist

(who's working on an artificial fur-lined cloak, if he can get enough

artificial fur)



From: ldulin at aol.com (LDulin)

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

Subject: Re: wool etc.

Date: 9 Feb 1995 10:39:23 -0500

Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)


Use thinsulate between layers of cotton. Works great, hangs great.




From: callred at carbon.cudenver.edu (Curtis L. Allred)

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

Subject: Re: Cloaks/Capes

Date: 11 Feb 1995 14:40:12 -0700

Organization: University of Colorado at Denver


Carla Oexmann (oexmann at convex.com) wrote:

: Another question here : by haunting the local Tandy sales, I managed

: to acquire a large number of rabbit pelt seconds, and decided I would

: use them for a real furlined cloak.  I have them all stitched together

: now ( lots of hand sewing using the stitch shown in a leather working

: book ) but am uncertain as to how to attach it to the wool outer part

: of the cape.  Basically, I'm afraid that the thin leather of the pelts

: will tear at the shoulders.  Is there some way I can support the fur

: lining, or should it just hang independantly ?  What about shoulder

: rubs : is there any way to reinforce that ?


: thanks, carla

: Ritual disclaimer : My opinion and mine alone !  Convex, as best I can tell,

: doesn't have opinions, being a corporate entity...

: Carla Oexmann        {allegra, sun, harvard, uiucdcs, ctvax}!convex!oexmann

Greetings, Carla!  Hugh here.


        Might I suggest a variation of what I did once with some Tandy Leather

rabbit pelts.  I used them to line some period boots I was making--and after

quite a bit of use, the pelts still are intact.


        Get ye some lining fabric (doesn't matter what type). Cut the fabric so

that it conforms to the cloak and pelt lining (sewing involved, most like)

and the use rubber cement to glue the pelt lining to the fabric.  Make sure

to apply cement to both the fabric and the pelts.  Then go over the whole

thing with some loose sitiches with a thread that blends in with the

rabbit pelts.  Stitch this in lines of about a foot apart going vertically

up and down the lining.  This will insure that the pelt and fabric will stay



        Once this is done, you should be able to attach the combined pelt/

fabric lining to the cloak's outer shell. You might be able to get enough

support from just attaching the lining to the shell along the outer seams.


        Good luck--it sounds wonderful!  


                                      Hugh of Berwick



Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

From: rzex60 at email.sps.mot.com (Jay Brandt)

Subject: Re: Cloaks/Capes

Organization: the Polyhedron Group

Date: Mon, 13 Feb 1995 19:17:44 GMT


In article <3hepbd$4vg at bach.convex.com>, oexmann at convex.com (Carla

Oexmann) wrote:


> Another question here : by haunting the local Tandy sales, I managed

> to acquire a large number of rabbit pelt seconds, and decided I would

> use them for a real furlined cloak.  I have them all stitched together

> now ( lots of hand sewing using the stitch shown in a leather working

> book ) but am uncertain as to how to attach it to the wool outer part

> of the cape.  Basically, I'm afraid that the thin leather of the pelts

> will tear at the shoulders.  Is there some way I can support the fur

> lining, or should it just hang independantly ?  What about shoulder

> rubs : is there any way to reinforce that ?


Well, for what it's worth, here's my thoughts on the matter.


I've seen those Tandy rabbit pelts, and I think your fears for their

structural strength may be justified. The leather is quite thin and soft.

The weight of a cloak-sized sheet of such pelts could possibly damage

them, if supported only on the edges.


I think what -I- would do next is to make an inner shell, following the

same pattern as the outer layer of the cloak, made of lightweight to

medium weight cotton duck. Pre-shrink the inner shell, because it must be

dimensionally stable for this idea to work. Then I'd attach the fur to the

inner shell, both at the edges and at points spaced 6 to 12 inches apart

in a diamond pattern, rather like making a quilt. If carefully done from

the shell side, the support stitching shouldn't show, and it should add a

fair amount of strength. Once the fur is quilted to the shell, attach the

outer shell of the cloak as planned before.


This -should- work, but I give you the caveat that I have not tested such

an assembly, and there may be flaws in this idea that I haven't

considered. I'm working mostly from my own experience with other cloak

linings, and what little I know about the strengths of the materials



Much luck to you in your endeavor. Please let us know how it turns out,

and what methods you chose to use.


Regards, Jay Brandt --- Austin, Texas, USA --- <rzex60 at email.sps.mot.com>

In the SCA, HLS Jason of Rosaria, JdL, GdS, AoA --------- (Member # 3016)



Cloak Pattern - (from a WWW site on 5/95)



From: jah10 at Cornell.edu (Jay Howell)


> >> For quite some time I have sought a pattern (fabric) for making

> >> a hooded cloak. As of yet I have had no luck I have seen some

> >> at different fair that I really liked, most people said they bought

> >> theirs at such-n-sucha place or a friend made it. I would prefer

> >> to make my own (means more). I would very much appreciate help

> >> from anyone who has a pattern or knows how/where to get one.

> >> I am not picky too much abou the style or wether it is open or pull

> >> over.

> >>

> >> Thanks in advance.

> >> Mark Browning

> >> Meb8913 at utarlg.uta.edu


> I made my own cloak as well that was hooded and lined.  If I can

> remember, I'll try and find the pattern tonight in all my junk,

> but I *think* it was either a Simplicity or a Butterwick pattern.

> I'll try and email you tomorrow, but > you may wish to e-mail me

> and remind me that I told you I'd get this :)


   I have been making cloaks for myself and friends for the past three years

(No mean feat for an amateur tailor), and the pattern I have used has gotten

a very welcome reception.


   The Pattern is by Butterick, #9796.  It has five (5) different cloak

styles. Four of these seem to fit within the Renaissance era.  The fifth

just appears to be a Poncho-style wrap.


   I usually make the full-length style cloak, with hood.  Depending on the

material used, and I usually make this type of cloak for $50 - $80, which

includes lining and trim.  (Now, if it only had something for ties.  *sigh*)


   If anyone has some ideas on how to put ties into a cloak, which WON'T

strangle you after five minutes, I would like to hear from you.





From: peaches at netcom.com


I have a pattern for a hooded cloak that I have found very nice.

It is a Simplitiy pattern #7016, one size fits all.

It is full length with slits for the arms. I put in a tie at the

neck for closing purposes.


I hope this helps you.





From: ridley2 at aol.com (Ridley2)


Go to your local sewing store (JoAnn Fabric or Minnesota Fabrics, etc) and

ask for Vogue pattern #7110.  It's an easy, unlined hooded cloak.





From: jburnes at crl.com (Jim Burnes)


There is a mail-order company called Folkwear and they sell patterns of

clothing from all over the world.  I recently ordered a pattern for a

kamiz and churidar (top and pants for women from India) and I was very

pleased. The pattern was not cheap, but it was of very high quality.


They have a couple patterns for cloaks that I thought were really good.

Here is a # that you can reach them at.  This is their customer service #:



BTW: they have other patterns that you may be interested in.  If you call,

ask to see if there are any stores around you that carry their catalog,

or you can request one.  It costs $3.oo.


Jim Burnes




From: afn03234 at freenet.ufl.edu (Ronald L. Charlotte)

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

Subject: Re: Help attaching a cloak, with what?

Date: 1 Jul 1995 17:16:07 GMT


Chris Petersen (xris at halcyon.com) wrote:

: What did people of the SCA period use to fasten cloaks?  I assume that

: upper-class folks would have some fancy cloak pin, but what about simple

: tie strings?  


People have already mentioned penannulars and fibulae.  Another method

that I've seen in illustrations and on statuary is a strap that goes

across the front, just below the collar bone. It's usually shown attached

via buttons or toggles.  I've made one out of fairly heavy (9 oz) leather

with loops of lighter leather sewn onto the cloak that come through the

leather front piece.  It is held in place by wooden pins (to be later

replaced by bone).  It does a really good job of holding a very heavy

wool cloak with a slippery lining (never again will I line a cloak with

silk, no matter how cheap!) in place.


In historical illustrations, I've seen this strap vary in width from

about a foot long, to the 4 inch length that mine is.


Its main advantage, is that by pulling both pins, leaving only the

leather loops sewn onto the cloak's neckline, I can have the garment

cleaned without worry for my tooled leather clasp.


Hope I helped...


        al Thaalibi -- An Crosaire, Trimaris

        Ron Charlotte -- Gainesville, FL

        afn03234 at freenet.ufl.edu



From: IVANOR at delphi.com

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

Subject: Cloaks

Date: 31 Aug 1995 02:58:16 GMT

Organization: Delphi Internet Services Corporation


Quoting user_id from a message in rec.org.sca

   >I appologize if I am reopening a SFH.  Perhaps one of you fine folks

   >has a pattern for a Full Circle Cloak?


Why would you need a pattern?  A circle is a circle.  The best way, is to

buy fabric as wide as you want the cloak to be long plus hem allowance, and

at least 3 times as long.  Take a string, a thumbtack and a marking pencil,

(tailor's chalk encased in wood) and use it as a compass to mark 1/2 a

circle with the center the desired length in from one end on the right edge.

Do this again, at the other end of the left edge.  (If the cloth is more

than three times the desired length, those circles should not overlap.)  Cut

out the half-circles, seam them at one edge, cut out a neck section, and

bind the edges, or line the cloak.  (If you are using cloth with a

directional pattern, you will need to by 4 times the desired length, and cut

both circles from the same selvedge.)


Some years ago, McCall's magazine published a design by Halston, which

involved using a slightly longer piece of cloth, long enough to cut bias

strips from the area between the two half circles and then use these strips

to bind the edges.  Liza Minelli was the model.  I found it just after I

made my Lord Husband's reversible full-circle cloak (full-length:  60")


Carolyn Boselli, Host of Custom Forum 35, SCAdians on Delphi



From: brettwi at ix.netcom.com (Brett Williams )

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

Subject: Re: Wool Allergies and Winter

Date: 7 Oct 1995 22:51:25 GMT

Organization: Netcom


In <456pdo$bst at decaxp.harvard.edu> jstarkey at course1.harvard.edu (just

julia) writes:

>I have a slight problem, I'm very allergic to wool.  If it touches my

>skin, it hurts a lot and I break out in a rash.  Even wool blends and

>cashmere hurt me.  Anyway, most of the nice and *warm* cloaks I've

>seen are, well, wool or a wool blend.  Are there any suggestions for

>what I can do to keep myself warm when it is cold?



I would imagine that you are allergic to either the traces of lanolin

in the wool or, perhaps, the residues of chemicals used to process and

dye the wool rather than the wool itself.  Wool is dead protein; hair-

a fairly inert substance unto itself. Do you have allergic reactions to

other types of animal products or animals, like cat or dog dander? Does

lanolin, as an additive to lotion or soap make you break out in frantic

itchies? Do you react to wool after it's been dry cleaned? Do you react

to dry-cleaning chemicals? :)


Your problem is a tough one. Silk is a fabulous insulator,

unfortunately it comes along with a fabulous price tag.  I've read of

wadded silk used as padding in quilted garments (meaning my scanty

documentation is in storage and probably OOP anyway), but a quilted

silk coat with silk wadding (it's out there, I've seen silk leaves for

quilting)would work nicely as an outergarment (I'm thinking of

something like the Turkish coat pattern from Folkwear). Such a garment

would be *very* expensive, should have a great deal of care, time and

handstitching put into its construction and would be drop-dead gorgeous

once it's done. Cotton batting would be a *lot* less expensive, but

wouldn't have the insulating properties of silk. Poly batting? Pfeh.


If that's not an option (grin-- if only *I* could have such a coat!),

what I would do if I were in this situation: I would layer the

offending fabric as far as possible away from any exposed flesh. For

most cultures of our period of interest the only exposed skin on a

woman was the face, some neck, part of the bosom (sometimes-- and that

depends on the person's origin and age and other factors), hands and

sometimes wrists. I, as a person with a predilection for Tudor garb,

would wear a chemise with long embroidered cuffs to keep my outer

sleeves (wool blend exterior, cotton lining) away from my hands and

wrists; my cotton (OOP, probably) hose or stockings and long shift

would keep skirts from irritating my legs.  Around my neck and

shoulders, again, the chemise/shift would keep the edges of the

doublet/bodice from rubbing against my skin. If I were wearing a cloak

or arascaid, I'd make sure the arascaid would drape in such a fashion

that it wouldn't touch *me*; the cloak would be lined with a sturdy

unoffending fabric (the hood could be lined with something really

spiffy or even done with fur) and, again, the outer fabric would be

kept away from me.


Though my suggestions are primarily for someone of late period, these

suggestions could be useful guidelines.  Your mileage may vary-- I hope

it helps. :)





From: bcarter at prairienet.org (Barbara J. Carter)

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

Subject: Re: Looking for a cloak pattern

Date: 7 Nov 1995 08:50:22 GMT

Organization: Prairienet, the East-Central Illinois Free-Net


Will & Stacy (erichvs at ix.netcom.com) wrote:

: It is a _BUTTERICK_ #6796.  I love this pattern because it has

: "shoulders," which keep it from falling off when it's not fastened.


I suspect this pattern no longer exists, but there's another which I just

made a cloak from, Butterick #3084.  The pattern is a full length cloak,

about the equivalent of 3/4 circle but with shoulders, lined, with or

without a hood.  I actually left out the lining and I'm very happy with

my new cloak, which keeps me pretty warm.


Now, I just have to wait a month for my clasp (Raiments is a tad behind).

:-( But even without any clasp, it stayed on fairly well!




bcarter at prairienet.org



From: gina at delphi.com

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

Subject: Re: Looking for a cloak pattern

Date: Thu, 9 Nov 95 23:17:26 -0500

Organization: Delphi (info at delphi.com email, 800-695-4005 voice)


Patricia Long <PLLINHS at uriacc.uri.EDU> writes:

>I don't make a cloak.  Does anyone know of a good pattern out there

>that a just-past-beginner in sewing would be able to use?

Greetings milady,

        Another pattern you may want to try is VOGUE #7110...rated as

Very Easy, Very Vogue.  It's a nice simple full cape, with or without hood.

It has somewhat fitted shoulders which are simply cut a part of the seam

allowance, and do not require great skill.  If you are a Small to Medium

size you can do the cape with between 4-1/8 to 5 yards of fabric if your

fabric is 54 to 60 inches wide.  You could make this up in a nice wool which

would be warm, and probably wouldn't need to line it unless you felt it

necessary. To line it, you could simply cut a second set of your chosen

lining fabric and put the two together, right sides together, stitching

down the center fronts, and hem edges, and then turn it right side out

through the neck hole and add your hood last.

        Hope this helps.

Ever in Service,





From: djheydt at uclink.berkeley.edu (Dorothy J Heydt)

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

Subject: Re: Viking cloaks

Date: 16 Oct 1996 03:31:15 GMT

Organization: University of California at Berkeley


In article <af7cc$12132a.375 at netaccess>, Thorgrim <thorgrim at naxs.com> wrote:


>Does anyone have a reliable source of information

>on Viking cloaks? They are nice for foul weather,

>but did they wear half-moon or opera types, or a

>simple rectangle gathered at the neck?


Now, my best source is Owen-Crocker's _Dress in Anglo-Saxon

England,_ but she covers Viking styles too because there were all

these Vikings resident in England.


The cloak worn by North European men (Vikings and others) during

this period was "squarish or rectangular, not tailored."  You

start with a piece of heavy fabric half the size of a blanket--

or a piece the size of a whole blanket, doubled so it's half the

size. Put this around your body so that the middle of the upper

edge is at the left side of your neck, and fasten the two sides

together on your right shoulder with a large brooch.  This leaves

your sword-arm free for instant action.  When it's bedtime, unpin

your cloak, unfold it, and use it for a blanket.  If you've got

to cast seed over a field, you can carry it in the front fold of

your cloak.  If the corner that hangs from the brooch in front

gets in your way, tuck it into your neckline.


If you're a man of a certain age, not expected to engage in

swordfighting any more and accustomed to wear a long gown, you

can pin your cloak in front, under your chin, if you prefer.


(Owen-Crocker, pp. 150-151 passim.)


Dorothea of Caer-Myrddin                Dorothy J. Heydt

Mists/Mists/West                        UC Berkeley

Argent, a cross forme'e sable           djheydt at uclink.berkeley.edu




From: excmairi at aol.com (EXCMairi)

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

Subject: Re: Viking cloaks

Date: 16 Oct 1996 08:32:44 -0400


If you fold the top edge of the fabric (along the horizontal top edge)

about 1/3 of the way down and then pin the cloak, the folded bit can be

quickly pulled up as a head covering.  It also makes the entire thing more

manageable - it somehow lays across the shoulders better.





From: kent and kat dyer <kdyer at nash.tds.net>

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

Subject: Re: winter fabric choices--??

Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 13:05:16 -0800

Organization: Oak, Ash & Thorn


Something you might consider when lining cloaks, pellicons & hoods -

black or gray polartec looks a great deal like moleskin and keeps one

very warm.  Admittedly I *did* line my three year old daughters cloak

with _green_ polartec last year as she really, really wanted it.  OTOH I

helped make a cloak for a lady that used a dark gray and it really did

look like moleskin at anything farther than 2 inches.


Lady Kattrine Witan Runa



From: djheydt at uclink.berkeley.edu (Dorothy J Heydt)

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

Subject: Re: Saxon Cloaks

Date: 20 Dec 1996 02:27:29 GMT

Organization: University of California at Berkeley


Nothmund <nothmund at aol.com> wrote:

>   I am planning to make a cloak, and would like some information as to

>the type of cloak that would have been worn by a saxon of the late nineth



The usual cloak for men of that period was a rectangle, draped

around the neck and pinned on the right shoulder, leaving the

swordarm free.  If the cloak was very large--the size of a

blanket--it could be folded in half before being pinned.  For

more details, see if you can find a copy of Gail Owen-Crocker's

_Dress in Anglo-Saxon England,_ Manchester University Press,

1986. This is the best source I know of.


Dorothea of Caer-Myrddin                          Dorothy J. Heydt

Mists/Mists/West                                Albany, California

PRO DEO ET REGE                                     djheydt at uclink



From: David Corliss <corlisd at aa.wl.com>

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

Subject: Re: Saxon Cloaks

Date: Fri, 20 Dec 1996 10:45:03 -0400

Organization: Retro Team, Parke-Davis Ann Arbor


Nothmund wrote:

>    I am planning to make a cloak, and would like some information as to

> the type of cloak that would have been worn by a saxon of the late nineth

> century.


>                             Nothmund Houndswain


You will find that a popular form of the cloak in this time and place was simply a rectangular piece of cloth. Two corners were drawn around the shoulders and fastened with a heavy brooch: left shoulder for men (at least, if right-handed: it leaves a weapon on the left hip free from the cloak); right shoulder for women (so you can do something with your right hand and still hold a baby: the other shoulder would lay the baby's cheek on the brooch).


Sometimes one will see a pin worn on each shoulder, although it seems to me to be a later period fashion (i.e., later than the 9th century: I do this myself in the 11th century). I use different cloaks of various weights for dress or for outdoor wear.


Beorthwine of Grafham Wood



From: Denise Connell <witsend at ix.netcom.com>

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

Subject: Commercial Announcement of Interest to SCA Members

Date: Sat, 22 Feb 1997 09:23:09 -0800

Organization: Snapdragon Gifts


Greetings and Salutations,


I am informed that a brief announcement of interest to SCA members is

acceptable to this newsgroup.  To that end, I submit for your approval:


       Snapdragon Gifts & WitsEnd Productions

       "nothing mundane"



A new cyberstore offering unique jewelry and gifts.


Cloak Broaches can be found at Honeck Sculpture (Dragons, Griffins &

Wolves - 3 pins in each figure - each broach is strong enough to hold

heavy wool).  SCA quote buttons can be found at WitsEnd in the SCA &

Role Playing sections.


Thank you.


Denise Connell



"Lady of the Knight"



From: Brett and Karen Williams <brettwi at ix.netcom.com>

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

Subject: Re: Cloak pattern

Date: Sun, 09 Mar 1997 10:35:45 -0800


Erayna L. Jackson wrote:


> I have bought a cloak pattern, Simplicity 9229.  I was wondering if

> anyone has used this same pattern and the results.  Do any alterations

> need to be made?  And as more of a general question, would it be better

> to have it made with or without the hood.  I most likely will go for a

> late Tudor persona.  That or a Viking.


> Thanks so much,

> Rayne


A Viking cloak would pretty much be a rectangular piece of fabric pinned

to one shoulder.


Cloak patterns tend to recycle through the various pattern companies:

same garment, new envelope picture and new number every few years.

McCalls, Butterick and Simplicity all have acceptable cloaks, given one



'Modern' cloaks are cut in three or four pieces with fitted shoulders.

By that, I'm defining the pattern pieces as a roughly triangulish shape

with an abrupt change in slope over the shoulder. A more period way to

contstruct a cloak would be to lay out cloth and piece together either a

half-, three-quarter- or full circle cloak without fitted shoulders. No

pattern necessary, except that Folkwear does have a half-circle cloak

pattern, called the Moroccan Burnoose, complete with long pointy hood.


The obvious difference between the 'modern' garment and the period cut

(aside from the shoulders) is the way the hem hangs. A circle-cloak

makes no allowance for the breadth of the shoulders inside the cloak, so

the lower edges hang unevenly unless compensated in the hemming.


That said, there's another good reason for using the period construction

of cloak (in addition to the authenticity, that is!): the Spif Factor.

If you're looking for a garment with swirl, drape and dash (the sort of

garment one enjoys the swing as it flies around you in a graceful arc

when suddenly turning on your heel), a circle cloak is the way to go.

Listed in order of Least Desirable to Most Desirable:  


Folkwear Kinsale cloak:

       Out of period. Great hood, minimal drape, minimal yardage. This garment

will not swirl around the       individual inside. Stays put on the



Modern fitted shoulder cloaks, any variety:

       Out of period shoulder treatment. Good drape, lots of yardage, mostly

minimal waste when cutting out.         Stays on the shoulders well. When last

constructing cloaks, I used the McCalls version and spread the  pieces

to add additional width and less fabric waste. I recall 7 yards of 60'

fabric for one: great   Spif Factor.


Half-, three-quarter-, and full-circle cloak:

       Period shoulder construction, great drape, harder to calculate yardage.

Other than the aforementioned   and out-of-production Folkwear Moroccan

Burnoose pattern, to my knowledge no patterns are commercially

available, but then, I wouldn't buy one, personally. Spectacular Spif

Factor; the garment will tend to        slip off the shoulders more than the

modern versions, especially if lined with something slippy. For         sheer

spectacular effect, the full-circle cloak can't be beat!


I hope this helps.





From: gileshill at aol.com (Gileshill)

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

Subject: Re: Cloak pattern

Date: 10 Mar 1997 03:26:14 GMT


Speaking as an Elizabethan of (more than a few years) experience, if you

want a warm-making garment that rates about a 10 on Ciorstan's

Spiff-O-Meter, I recommend the Varney Coat pattern from "Patterns of

Fashion" by Janet Arnold.  It's a loosely fitted coat with long hanging

sleeves, that fits me right off the page with no alterations (but I'm

6'5"). It's kept me perfectly comfortable at Pennsic, Estrella, and in

England for years.



(If you're in a seriously COLD environment, consider redrafting the

hanging sleeves so that they're wrist length and closed.)



Date: Tue, 05 Aug 1997 19:25:47 GMT

From: mmy at fp.co.nz (Maggie.Mulvaney)

To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu

Subject: Re: Norse cloak


Ailene nic Aedain wrote;

>If anyone else is able to give information on the size of cloaks, or

>information about the Schleswig bog find or the cloak in the Thorsberg bog

>find, please let us know!


not specifically viking, but there are a couple of nice illuminations

of Anglo-Saxon kings that show rectangular cloaks worn. I'm working

from memory, but there's two that always seem to show up in any book

on Anglo-Saxon art; both are of kings as donors. Athelstan is one,

Cnut the other. I *think* both these are wearing cloaks.


The cloaks are rectangular, and at a guess I'd say the length is

equivalent to their 'wingspan'. They reach to about the knee from the

shoulder. They're clasped on one shoulder.


Sorry I can't be more specific, but I'm at work and my copy of 'the

golden age of anglo-saxon art' is not.





Date: Wed, 24 Sep 1997 11:15:08 -0700

From: Brett and Karen Williams <brettwi at ix.netcom.com>

To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu

Subject: Thorsberg bog find...


last August Lady Ailene wrote:

> I am not sure of the date of the Schleswig bog find.  I think there was

> also a cloak found with the Thorsberg bog find (2nd-5th c AD), but I'm not

> finding anything about it.  I really should just read the book sometime...


> If anyone else is able to give information on the size of cloaks, or

> information about the Schleswig bog find or the cloak in the Thorsberg bog

> find, please let us know!

> Ailene nic Aedain

> Shire of Shadowdale, Calontir


I happened to figure out how to access the archives for the list last

night and while wandering through ran across your question.


Plate 67, page 67 of _Textiles, 5000 Years_, edited by Jennifer Harris,

ISBN 0-8109-3875-8 is captioned "Modern reconstruction of the Thorsberg

mantle, Iron Age, c. AD 200." The photo is credited with the Textile

Museum, Neuemunster (699). The mantle is draped across and over an

armless and faceless dummy (from what I can tell) and is long enough to

go down to about ankle length and turn over to about waist length,

including fringes. The photo does not resolve well enough to indicate if

the reconstruction weaver used tablet-woven borders. It is done in a

plaid of cream and dark sky-blue (weld, not woad?); the selvedges and

ending borders are all set off with cream bands of two widths.


You gotta see this picture, Ailene...(grin)


I haven't tracked this garment any further-- however I will somewhat

sheepishly admit that this particular COLOR!! photograph and the earlier

color picture of the thousand year old blue and harvest-gold child's

t-tunic on page 61, figure 58, are the two single items that convinced

me to plonk down almost $70 for this book. The overwhelming majority of

_Textiles, 5,000 Years_ is in color and the pictures are nice and

large-- what I'd call a 'coffee table' format.





From: dickeney at access4.digex.net (Dick Eney)

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

Subject: Re: Capes

Date: 6 May 1997 16:16:11 -0400

Organization: Express Access Online Communications, Greenbelt, MD USA


Megan L. Schmidt <megan at airmail.net> wrote:

>I am in the process of making hooded capes for my family.  I am

>debating....to line, or not to line?  and if I DO line the capes, with

>what do I line them?  (Shiny poly lining material just doesn't seem

>right.). 2 of the capes are for munchkins (ages 3.5 and 5) so I have

>some concern about using a ton of poly anyway.  I have visions of them

>being melted to their capes if a stray spark goes their way.  


>who just couldn't help herself when she saw all that BEAUTIFUL wool on

>the 50% table.


Lining is a good thing, shiny poly is less so (though gently glossy silk

has its appeal).  Cotton, though it burns just as fast as poly, at least

doesn't melt.  Unless the kids are allergic to wool, why not just line

them with more wool?  Regardless of your choice, do not line the hood with

anything slippery; satins etc make the hoods fall off instantly, whereas a

textured fabric will help hold it on (corduroy is nice, it sometimes comes

very thin so it doesn't add much weight, and you can sometimes find

pinwale or no-wale corduroy).


Or you could try not lining them, and just finishing the seams really

carefully (French seams _are_ period, and fairly early - some Viking finds

used them IIRC).


=Tamar the Gypsy (sharing account dickeney at access.digex.net)



From: Elaine Ragland <er37 at columbia.edu>

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

Subject: Re: Capes

Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 17:23:39 -0400

Organization: Columbia University


On Tue, 6 May 1997, Megan L. Schmidt wrote:

> I am in the process of making hooded capes for my family.  I am

> debating....to line, or not to line?  and if I DO line the capes, with

> what do I line them?  (Shiny poly lining material just doesn't seem

> right.).  2 of the capes are for munchkins (ages 3.5 and 5) so I have

> some concern about using a ton of poly anyway.  I have visions of them

> being melted to their capes if a stray spark goes their way.  


> Megan

> who just couldn't help herself when she saw all that BEAUTIFUL wool on

> the 50% table.


I like to line the hood.  I have a mild allergy to wool, and I shouldn't

have wool rubbing my face.  It's also an extra layer of fabric, on those

days when the rain soaks through everything.  Perhaps polished cotton?  A

little shine, but no melting.  For extra warmth, brushed flannel is nice

against the face, and doesn't slip off the head as easily as modern lining



What's really nice, if they're available in your area, is to pick up used

fur pieces, and sew one on the inside edge of each hood.  It frames the

face, makes the hood a little warmer, and helps keep the hood up in a



Also, I scotchgard all the household capes once a year (usually before

Pennsic). Wool is naturally waterproof, but that's before modern fabric

mills wash all the lanolin out.  A good tight weave will still resist

water, but will eventually soak through in a steady hard rain.


Happy sewing.


Elaine Ragland

aka Melanie de la Tour



From: Patrick Thompson <thompson2 at ameritech.net>

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

Subject: Re: Capes

Date: Tue, 06 May 1997 20:26:58 -0400


Megan L. Schmidt wrote:

> I am in the process of making hooded capes for my family.  I am

> debating....to line, or not to line?  and if I DO line the capes, with

> what do I line them?


> Megan

> who just couldn't help herself when she saw all that BEAUTIFUL wool on

> the 50% table.



Just to throw in my two cents...... I had a cloak made for me by a friend who left the bottom of the cloak open between the outer layer (black) and the inner layer (blue). When I end up somewhere where it gets real nippy,  I slide a spare blanket between the layers and pin them in place. Works real nice during winter events.


Patrick Thompson

The Gypsy Jugglers



From: hrjones at uclink.berkeley.edu (Heather Rose Jones)

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

Subject: Re: Lining for fur cape

Date: 8 May 1997 02:10:19 GMT

Organization: University of California, Berkeley


Anna Troy (ark5_46 at stud.got.kth.se) wrote:

: I've had the very good forune of buying a fur cape (muskrat). Problem

: is, it isn't lined. Now what type of cloth should I use to line it?

: Seeing as it's allready fairly heavy.


<chuckle> You put the fur on the _inside_ to keep you warmer, then you get

a really snazzy fabric (silk brocades are nice) to be the _outside_ of the

cape. I've never understood this silly business of putting the fur on the

outsides of garments where it does no good at all!


Tangwystyl verch Morgant Glasvryn

(proud posessor of at least three entirely fur-lined garments -- now if

only I lived somewhere they were actually practical!)



From: "Compop" <robd at wts.toolweb.com>

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

Subject: Re: Garb help?

Date: 17 Jun 1997 14:57:42 GMT

Organization: CyberGate, Inc.


Vessekx <vessekx at geocities.com> wrote:

> I've got a home-made cloak that's made with a fairly heavy cloth to help

> stay warm on a chilly day or night. It works pretty well in general, but

> when I try to wear it a bit open it digs into my throat a bit.  Anybody

> have any ideas on how to stop that with minimal modifications to it?


   Perhaps modifiying the clasp/ closure type to a lower postion on the front

of the cloak?  I personally use a short loop of gold-tone chain, with each

end looped around an ornate button on each side of the cloak's opening.

The buttons are sewn on at roughly mid-chest level.  The weight of the

cloak falls mostly on my shoulders, so the chain only serves to hold it


       Hope this might help....


Sandor the Traveler

Shire of the Ruins, Trimaris

"Cry havoc, and let slip the Dogs of E-Mail !"

robd at wts.toolweb.com



Date: Tue, 17 Jun 1997 22:11:43 -0600

From: myfanwy at golden.net

Subject: Re: Garb help?

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca


vessekx at geocities.com wrote:

> I've got a home-made cloak that's made with a fairly heavy cloth to help

> stay warm on a chilly day or night. It works pretty well in general, but

> when I try to wear it a bit open it digs into my throat a bit.  Anybody

> have any ideas on how to stop that with minimal modifications to it?

> Thanks for the help.

> --

>       - Theo


Annwyl Theo,


I use a two large button closing( with small buttons on the underside to

reduce stress on the fabric).  I make two or three straps of leather with

buttonholes at each end.  The length of these vary so I can wear a cape

closed, open or one shoulder out.


Punch a circular hole at each end of the buttonhole slits.  This

distributes stress so the leather doesn't tear.


Pob hwyl,




From: Brett and Karen Williams <brettwi at ix.netcom.com>

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

Subject: Re: Cloaks?

Date: Mon, 18 May 1998 09:59:52 -0700


Holly Sullivan wrote:

> Larry Johnson wrote:

> > RMGO wrote:

> > > My wife would like to make a cloak, but, alas, we have no pattern. Does

> > > anyone have a suggestion on where to obtain them?

> > >

> > > Tarl Taltos

> > > exdir at rmgo.org

> >

> >   You can try http://www.larkbooks.com/folkwear.html and ask for the catalog

> > and they will send one to you.  I think there is a cloak in the catalog.


> They have announced plans to reprint the well known Irish Kinsale cloak; they

> haven't done it yet.   One hopes it will be soon.  :-)   Catalog's free too.

> Nice to have Folkwear back with someone who cares about it IMO.


> And no, you really don't need a pattern.  My best suggestion would be to

> purchase or borrow a

> copy of the Known World Handbook.. it has several easy to understand

> illustrations for cloaks.

> --

> :-)---Holly---<--<- at  


If one is looking at Folkwear for patterns for a cloak, I would suggest

using the "Moroccan Burnoose" pattern rather than the post-period

Kinsale Cloak. The burnoose is a perfectly good half-circle cloak. And I

have to admit, the drape of the Kinsale cloak is simply not to my

taste-- because of the way the pieces of the cloak body are cut, there

is little proportional flare from the top of the garment down to the

hem, which means if one is looking for a cloak that does that dramatic

swirl around the body when one abruptly turns on one's heel, the Kinsale

Cloak won't fit the bill.


Alter Years also publishes a pattern version of the Kinsale cloak, too.





Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 13:01:06 EST

From: froggestow at juno.com (Roberta R Comstock)

To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu

Subject: Re: a couple of things


On 27 Oct 98 22:43:09 EST Marian.DeBorah.Rosenberg at washcoll.edu (Marian

DeBorah Rosenberg) writes:



>Secondly, I want to line the wool I got this weekend (I'm thinking

>since the wool is green plaid, I'll cannabalise one of the forest

>green fitted sheets I've never bothered using at school).  I'm new

>at the game of making my own clothing . . . do I just sew the

>cannabilised sheet to the wool?  Or, when I hem up the bottom,

>would I have the edge folded under the sewn up hem?


> Is anything put between lining and cloth?  And, most importantly, in

>making sure I have a straight hem all the way around, I should pin

>the cloth up, right?


The sheet(s) could work nicely for lining your cloak.  If they are

poly-cotton blend, they will actually help maket it a little warmer.  The

polyester will probably not be too obvious in this situation.

Your color combination sounds good to me. (I love greens.)


What shape of cloak are you making?  Will it be a flat semicircle with a

notch for the neck?  Or will it have gores and shaping at the shoulders?

In either case, line the grain of the lining to match that of the wool on

each piece.  The most usual way to add a lining to a cloak is to attach

it on 3 edges:  the neck opening, the left front and the right front,

leaving the bottom edges free and hemming cloak and lining separately.

Get some help pinning the hem while you wear the cloak if at all

possible. OF there's nobody around to pin the hem for you, use  tape

measure to set the length from your shoulder to where ever you want the

bottom of the cloak to fall.  Measure and pin and then try on and adjust

turned up edges until you get it to look right in a full length mirror.


After the cloak has been worn or hung up for a time, you will probably

find that the wool and the lining have not stretched  uniformly.  If the

hems are independent, it is a simple thing to adjust them.  That is, if

the lining has stretched more than the wool, you only need to rehem the

lining. For the most part, you dont need to put anything between the two

layers, although it might be a good idea to add a reinforcing layer

around the neck and down the front to where you plan to atttach your

clasp or toggle closure or ties.  This can be done with the corners

trimmed off the lining fabric when you rounded the edges.  If you decide

to close it with a penannular brooch or other large pinning device, you

can try it on and mark the areas where the pin will go through and then

reinforce those spots.





Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 16:49:07 -0700

From: Curtis & Mary <ladymari at cybertrails.com>

To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu

Subject: Re: a couple of things


> <furiously scribbling down notes>  I think I understand that well enough. I'm

> going to use a brooch, but it will be unpinned at the front until I can find a

> nice brooch for it.


A suggestion to save wear and tear on cloak fronts. Put a peice of fabric, thick

felt, et. on the back side or if you turned the front edge over or added a facing [where the cloak isn't lined] put the reinforcing between them, then make

a button hole or a stitched eyelet [do this on each side of the cloak front] big

enough to get your cloak pin through.  Many modern fabrics are not fulled and

shrunk up enough to take repeated stabbings of large cloak pins without ripping

and wearing and this saves them a lot of wear.





Date: Sun, 23 May 2004 21:25:43 -0400

From: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue at thibault.org>

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

Subject: Re: Looking for Cloak Pattern


Katilist wrote:

> I've seen many patterns

> but want one that is known to be not-too-difficult and drapes nicely - is there

> any lined-hooded-cloak pattern floating around out there that is more highly

> recommended than others?


The Vogue pattern is very nice.  It is modern, in that it 1: has an

attached hood and 2: the shoulders are shaped.  The shaped shoulders

really help keep it in place during practical use, though.



From: The Cow Goddess <rouquinne at look.ca>

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

Subject: Re: Looking for Cloak Pattern

Date: Sun, 23 May 2004 18:28:30 -0400

Organization: Ottawa Pastures Central


katilist at aol.comedy (Katilist) wrote:

> I was wondering if anyone might have a recommendation for a

> good cloak pattern; one that is hooded AND lined.  I have some

> fine German cotton velvet that I have been toting around for

> years with the idea of making a cloak one day, and am finally

> about set up to do the project. I've seen many patterns but

> want one that is known to be not-too-difficult and drapes

> nicely - is there any lined-hooded-cloak pattern floating

> around out there that is more highly recommended than others?


what about the Kinsale cloak from Folkwear patterns?







Date: Mon, 24 May 2004 09:00:21 -0600

From: The Bratt <brattboy at aros.net>

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

Subject: Re: Looking for Cloak Pattern




  (I have used this pattern many times and so long as you save the slit

part for the arms until last it's easy)









There is also one from Simplcity that is found in the women's coat

section that I've used as well that is easy to work with.


Hope that gives you something to work with.





From: Michael Silverhands <silverhands at sbcglobal.net>

Date: February 21, 2005 2:42:33 PM CST

To: "Kingdom of Ansteorra - SCA, Inc." <ansteorra at ansteorra.org>

Subject: Re: [Ansteorra] reinforce cloak for brooch


--- Ciard49 at aol.com wrote:

> A question please?  I need to make some sort of reinforcing on my cloak

> due to the weight of a large set of brass double-brooches with chain.


> Can anyone describe how to make the reinforcements?

> Ciard


I have a cloak I've had for over 20 years, with a reinforcement like you

describe. The cloak is very heavy (especially when wet), and actually pulled

the pin through the material on our first design. The current design is

simply a round patch of leather (just some scrap that was handy) about 2" in

diameter, which is sewn all around to the cloak (on the inside, where you

won't see it when worn). The two halves of the clasp are actually sewn to the

leather patches (through the cloak material from the outside). It solved the

problem perfectly, and has held up extremely well.





From: orionsdaughter at gmail.com

Subject: Re: {TheTriskeleTavern} seeking help learning to sew circle cloaks

Date: April 23, 2011 12:05:52 PM CDT

To: the-triskele-tavern at googlegroups.com


For the cape challenged I strongly suggest this pattern...



I have made, literally, hundreds of this pattern... if I can be of any help it is pretty easy to make one without the pattern.. you need 3.5 yards of 54 inch fabric and roughly 7-9 yards of trim  double that if you want the tassels/balls less than 1.5 inches apart.. I use furniture trims. If I may be of further service you may find me via my email.


If you can find linen or cotton round tablecloths you can cut one in half to make a short cloak.  Don't bother the mainstream thrift shops, they pretty much are played out.. I have had great success with the smaller church or for profit shops in the past couple of years in getting the linen or cotton tablecloths I turn into resort wear (oops sorry that is OOP).. have fun.


Lady Aine



From: ceilene at bellsouth.net

Subject: {TheTriskeleTavern} Circle Cloak

Date: April 24, 2011 9:33:11 AM CDT

To: the-triskele-tavern at googlegroups.com


The Known World  Handbook, Fourth Edition, pages 62 - 65;

The Known World Handbook, Third Edition, pages 48 - 50.

These are hands down the best patterns for a simple, SIMPLE, beautiful circle cloak. I have made cloaks using these patterns and they are STELLAR.  The drape is breathtaking and they are very, very simple to sew.

E-mail me if you don't have access to The Known World Handbook.  I will happily send you the pages I am referring to.


P.S., The Known World Handbook is actually something every Scadian should have in their library.  It's my bible!



From: bealexan at gmail.com

Subject: Re: {TheTriskeleTavern} Circle Cloak

Date: April 24, 2011 8:00:32 PM CDT

To: the-triskele-tavern at googlegroups.com


On Sun, Apr 24, 2011 at 8:07 PM, Coinneach <goldworm at surfbest.net> wrote:

<<< The nice thing about this simple design is that after folding the cloth properly and drawing two circles [neck hole and bottom of cloak] the sewing is basically straight going. My great cloak doubles for a full size bed cover when not in use [protecting me from a Gulf War night], and is full enuff for me and my wife! Its big enuff for six to sit upon the ground at Great Courts.

Mine is a heavy cotton outer with a matching fleece inner, AND has a layer of waterproof fabric sandwiched between. Its heavy, but I stay dry and warm.

Good luck and enjoy it for years.

Cmm >>>


Some things I have learned over the years about cloaks.


When it comes to a Trimarian cloak, a single layer of light weight wool works great!.  While a little pricey, Wool does a wonderful job of shedding the rain and keeps you amazingly dry and/or warm for quite some time. It is best to leave the bottom un-hemmed as the weight of the water drains to the bottom and wicks away.   A hem may look nice but it holds the water in the fabric (that is why, when the weather is damp, you will notice many gentles with the bottoms of their cloaks heavy with moisture. This will then absorb dirt and mud).


I haven't made a cloak in many many years....you are inspiring me to make a new one!!


Signy Ottarsdottir



From: Lord Magnus Thunderson

To: the-triskele-tavern at googlegroups.com

Sent: Monday, November 21, 2011 5:30 PM

Subject: RE: {TheTriskeleTavern} Question for all garb makers out there who would know


<<< Looking at getting a full circle hooded cloak made.  Outer layer, and inner layer, with a possible 3rd layer on the inside of that.  Middle will be polar fleece.  How much fabric per layer am I going to need?  >>>


The outer layer will be most expensive as it should be quality wool both for wear and surprising fire resistance as my 25 years old circle cloak still has no burns how much depends on how tall you are and if the fabric is 45 inch or 60 inch and what whatever you use for the inner liner make sure it not at all slippery as a good circle cloak is also quite heavy so slips quite easily off

A good alterative which is a bit cheaper and also lighter and can be just as warm is a 3/4 circle cloak but you be limited to only one close friend underneath.

Expect to pay about 100-200 in materials for a quality circle cloak.

my circle cloak with heavy worsted wool and  a thermal liming which was a mistake as it slippery so this year I been taking it apart  and rebuilding it with a light wool inner lining and 2 less panels to make it lighter as it weight about 30 pounds




From: Beth Alexander <bealexan at gmail.com>

Date: November 22, 2011 1:48:36 PM CST

To: the-triskele-tavern at googlegroups.com

Subject: Re: {TheTriskeleTavern} Question for all garb makers out there who would know


On Tue, Nov 22, 2011 at 2:31 PM, Coinneach <goldworm at surfbest.net> wrote:

<<< where wool is period, and wonderful, its about $25-40 per yard at JoAnns! [Poverty and starving is also period!] You could also try Goodwill bedding, some blankets, cords, and other stuff might work well! Ive seen great cloaks made of slippery stuff, running a line stitching thru all three layers lengthwize at N/S/E/W will stop that problem. {its particularly a problem with a hood.} Don't seal the bottom until you're all done and happy with how it falls. Also be prepared for the bottom to get dirty [mud, splash, rain runoff, etc] War's a dirty business, especially when it gets cold and wet. A wide trim from Calontir always dresses a cloak up! [Its a bit tricky making a straight trim curve about a round bottom, but if you can run a machine, you can do it.]

cmm. >>>


If I can throw in a recommendation, there have been some fantastic sales online (Denver Fabrics for example) for coatweight wool at about $14.00/yd.  This is wonderful heavy stuff and I would seriously consider only using a single layer to line it if at all. You will be amazed at how warm it can be.

If you do make a cloak out of wool, take advantage of the awesome wicking property of the fabric and leave it unhemmed.  An unhemmed edge will quickly felt and in wet conditions will wick away the moisture as gravity pulls it down towards the hem.  If you fold over the hem it will stay wet and the moisture will sit there in the fold attracting mud.



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