cl-Spain-msg - 12/22/09 Clothing of medieval Spain. NOTE: See also the files: cl-Moorish-msg, cl-Celts-msg, clothing-books-msg, corsets-msg, hoops-msg, patterns-msg, fd-Spain-msg, Spain-msg. ************************************************************************ NOTICE - This file is a collection of various messages having a common theme that I have collected from my reading of the various computer networks. Some messages date back to 1989, some may be as recent as yesterday. This file is part of a collection of files called Stefan's Florilegium. These files are available on the Internet at: http://www.florilegium.org I have done a limited amount of editing. Messages having to do with separate topics were sometimes split into different files and sometimes extraneous information was removed. For instance, the message IDs were removed to save space and remove clutter. The comments made in these messages are not necessarily my viewpoints. I make no claims as to the accuracy of the information given by the individual authors. Please respect the time and efforts of those who have written these messages. The copyright status of these messages is unclear at this time. If information is published from these messages, please give credit to the originator(s). Thank you, Mark S. Harris AKA: THLord Stefan li Rous Stefan at florilegium.org ************************************************************************ From: jdejesus at eden.rutgers.edu (Ramirez) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: Spanish Personna Date: 29 Jun 1996 15:52:21 -0400 Organization: Rutgers University dpirko at uoguelph.ca (Denise Pirko) writes: >Greetings from Katje >A friend of mine is trying to find information so she can develop a >spanish personna. Unfortunately we have a rather pitiful library here at >the University of Guelph, so I am trying to get names of books on names >and dress, mostly for the time after 1300, so we can use the wonderful >interlibrary loan system. >Katje While I don't have a suggestion for a name book, I should point out that the name will vary greatly depending on wether she intends to be from southern Spain (primarily Muslim) or Northern Spain (Primarily Christian). But this will also vary by the ecact time period your friends persona chooses because between the 9th and 15th centuries Muslim influence in Spain varies. As for costuming I would reccomend this book: 106 RUTGERS UNIVERSITY - IRIS LIBRARY SYSTEM - ALL *TITLE SEARCH Citation 1 of 1 AUTHOR Anderson, Ruth Matilda. TITLE Hispanic costume, 1480-1530 / by Ruth Matilda Anderson. PUBLISHER New York : Hispanic Society of America, 1979. DESCRIP x, 293 p. : ill. ; 29 cm. SERIES Hispanic notes & monographs, essays, studies, and brief biographies : Peninsular series NOTES Includes index. * Bibliography: p. 265-269. SUBJECTS Costume -- Spain -- History. * Costume -- Portugal -- History. LC CARD 78066880 ISBN 0875351263 RLIN ID G81-B764 While on the late end, (you asked for post 1300) It is very thourough. It gives various close ups of the garments from period artwork as well as descriptions of the garments as well. Althogh it primarily deals with Christian fashin it does have some Muslim fashions as well. -In Service, Julio DeJesus Anibal Rivera Ramirez DeJesus From: foxd at silver.ucs.indiana.edu (daniel fox) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: Spanish Garb Date: 11 Jul 1996 04:55:07 GMT Organization: Indiana University, Bloomington In article <4s1vqu$e9o at newsbf02.news.aol.com>, Shire2308 wrote: >I live in Toledo, the capital of Espana. It is the first half of the 16th >Century. Unfortunately, I am having a difficult time making clothing for >myself because I can not seem to find good patterns (or sources). Can >anyone help me? > >Gracias, >Cristina Eulalia Patterns will be hard to find for your period; you'll have to work them out for yourself. Two books which should be useful for your period are: Anderson, Ruth M. Hispanic Costume, 1480-1530. Hispanic Society of America. 1979. Bernis Madrazo, Carmen Trajes Y Modes en las Espana de los Reyes Catolicos. Serie Artes y Artista. Institute Diego Valzquez del Consejo Superior de Investiations Cientificas. Madrid: 1978. (2 volumes. 1) La Mujeres; 2) Los Hombres.) (I don't guarantee that all information is correctly transcribed for that last one, except for author and title. High School Spainsh was a LONG time ago.) These books are probably out of print, but are probably available through ILL. Audelindis de Rheims From: dickeney at access1.digex.net (Dick Eney) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: Spanish research Date: 30 Oct 1996 18:28:54 -0500 Organization: Express Access Online Communications, Greenbelt, MD USA JoAnne wrote: >If there is anyone out there who could point me the right direction in >locating any books on Spanish garb from around the year 1500. I had found >a really great book called the "Hispanic costume 14?? to 15??" but it's >out of print so I can't get it. any other titles would be great. >Dona Lucia de Valencia I assume you found Hispanic Costume 1480-1530 by Ruth Matilda Anderson, copyright 1979. Another book to try for is: Historic Costume - A Chronicle of Fashion in Western Europe, by Francis Kelly and Rudolph Schwabe. copyright 1929-1968, reprinted 1988. It begins with 1490 AD and includes some Spanish costume. =Tamar the Gypsy (sharing account dickeney at access.digex.net) From: TDLEC at aol.com Date: Mon, 13 Jan 1997 23:57:32 -0500 (EST) To: markh at risc.sps.mot.com Subject: Re: TORQUEAMDA PERIOD I got this in the mail today, not to sure what to do with it though. I guess go look it up. bruce horton ---- Anderson, Ruth M. Hispanic Costume, 1480-1530. Hispanic Society of America. 1979. Bernis Madrazo, Carmen Trajes Y Modes en las Espana de los Reyes Catolicos. Serie Artes y Artista. Institute Diego Valzquez del Consejo Superior de Investiations Cientificas. Madrid: 1978. (2 volumes. 1) La Mujeres; 2) Los Hombres.) From: ladyval at aol.com (Lady Val) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: TORQUEAMDA PERIOD Date: 26 Jan 1997 00:37:25 GMT Bruce Horton, tdlec at aol.com (TDLEC) asked: >I'm new to SCA and want to know more on the Torquemada period 1400-1500, >the Inquisition and Spanish Court Costumes for men. My SCA persona is Spanish, and I have an interest in the period to which you refer. I found a wonderful book by Ruth Matilda Anderson entitled HISPANIC COSTUME 1480-1530 with 569 illustrations in black and white and 8 in foll color. I dont remember where I got the book, but I believe I ordered it from some mail order catalogue of historical books. It is published by Halliday Lithograph, copyright 1979 by the Hispanic Society of America, New York. It has the first half of the book divided into a section "Men and their Dress Occasions" and the entire book is made up of small sections of paintings and statues with notes about each type of clothing for men and women both. It has excellent documentation of the year and person who wore that particular article of clothing. Within each section there are sections entitled "Hair Styles" and another one "Headgear" down to "Footwear." I hope you could locate this book and it would be helpful to you. I have learned a lot from the notes in the book. H E Valencia Carlota Maria de Granada (16th century Spanish noblewoman in the court of Catherine of Aragon, first wife of Henry VIII) mka - Janice Terrell email - Lady Val at aol.com From: N.D. Wederstrandt Newsgroups: austin.org.sca Date: Wednesday, August 19, 1998 5:27 AM Subject: Re: BG - Spannish Garb The Dutch were controlled by the Spanish in the latter part of the 17th century. Philip II, husband to Mary Tudor, was King (emperor) over them. So it would be logical and appropriate for you to find heavy Spanish influence on the Dutch. (and vice versa) It's fun to note that the Dutch were thorns in Spain's side during this time. As another side note there is a period (1650+ Spanish Tailor's book that has been reproduced with patterns and such. It's pretty cool. Clare Subject: Re: BG - Spannish Garb Date: Wed, 19 Aug 98 14:56:36 MST From: "N.D. Wederstrandt" To: bryn-gwlad at Ansteorra.ORG It took a second but I found the info in the UT Online Catalog. The name of the book is The "Tailor's Pattern Book: 1589 facsimile" by Juan de Alcega, Published by Carlton, Bedford, 1979. It is translated into English. ISBN # is 905585065 It's a very neat book so if you can find it you should have fun! ALso Janet Arnold's books on English costuming have some good tips on construction of doublets and such. Clare Subject: Re: Welshmen in Sideless Sircoats/Men in Spain Date: Sun, 1 Nov 1998 23:00:05 -0500 (EST) From: Grace Morris To: Robert J Welenc CC: Atlantia at atlantia.sca.org Sources to Help You in the Construction of the Clothing of 13th Century Spain from Mistress Maddalena Jessamyn di Piemonte (sorry, I can't underline in this stupid system we have...) Anderson, Ruth Matilda. (1942). "Pleated Headresses of Castilla and Leon (12th and 13th Centuries)". In Notes Hispanic, 1942, p.50-75.excellent Bernis (Madroza), Carmen. (1954). "Tapiceria Hispano Musulmana (Siglos IX-XI)." Archivo Espanol de Arte, 27, p.189-211. __________________. (1956). oIndumetaria Medieval Espanola. Madrid: Institute Diego Velasquez. through late 15th c. __________________. (1956). Tapiceria Hispano-Musulmana (Siglos XII y XIV). Archivo Espanol de Arte, 29, p.95-115. __________________. (1970). La Moda y las Imagenes Goticas de la Virgen. Claves Para su Fechacion. Archivo Espanol de Arte, 43, p.193-218. timelines for the evolution of the basic camica, saya Canderra y Solano, d. Valentin. (1864). Iconagrafia Espanola- Colleccion de Retratos, Estatuas, Mausoleos y Demas Monumentos Inededitos de Reyes, Reines, Grandes Capitanes, Escritores, Etc. desde el Siglio XI hasta el VII. Madrid: Imprenta de Don Romon Campuzano. surpisingly accurate source, drawings from tombs Lovillo, Jose Guerrero. (1949). Las Cantigas: estudio arqueolologico des sus miniaturas. Madrid: Instituto Diego Velasquez. good categorization of clothing types, but questionable because of pattern conjecture...also weapons, architecture, clerical vestments (also look in various art books, too many to list here!) Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2000 18:11:40 -0700 (PDT) From: Gabrielle Bombard To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu Subject: Re: footwear help I just picked up this really cool book from the library called Hispanic Costume 1480-1535 (I think). It has a whole section on footwear using period paintings and sculptures as examples. It would be a good place to start, as Italy and Spain seemed to exchange ideas rapidly. --Kiara Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2000 21:54:51 -0400 From: Carol Thomas To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu Subject: Re: Spanish Costume!!! I've heard that the Hispanic Costume book is great, but as far as I know it is out of print. You could try ILL to see if it can be borrowed. This book is in print, and is very helpful in making patterns. JUAN DE ALCEGA'S TAILORS PATTERN BOOK 1589: Facsimile Juan de Alcega, Ruth Bean (Costume and Fashion Press) This facsimile and translation will fascinate costumers. The patterns are like the lay-outs for cutting found in modern patterns: small drawings showing the shape of each pattern piece, with instructions. The entire manuscript is shown in the original, then again, translated, with all the drawings by their descriptions and instructions. Alcega showed how to make doublets, cloaks, cassocks, morning gowns, Spanish gowns, kirtles, mantles, bodices and skirts, and more, including a farthingale. Note: the finished garments are not shown. 177 pages, soft-cover. 135 drawn patterns. Size: 8 x 11. Price: $39.95 Carllein Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 05:07:38 -0700 From: Mary Hysong To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu Subject: Re: Spanish Costume!!! Carol Thomas wrote: > I've heard that the Hispanic Costume book is great, but as far as I know it > is out of print. You could try ILL to see if it can be borrowed. > > This book is in print, and is very helpful in making patterns. > > JUAN DE ALCEGA'S TAILORS PATTERN BOOK 1589: this is a great book for pattern making if you have a clue what the finished garment should look like ;-) I did discover that if you traced off the patterns given onto graph paper, 10 sguares to the inch, then blow it up so each square becomes an inch, it will pretty much give you a full size pattern that you can then tailor to the person. I used them several years ago to make some things for my girls. Mairi, Atenveldt. PS the publisher claims that the Spanish ell is the same size as a modern meter. Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 13:24:44 EDT From: "Liz Rose" To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu Subject: Re: Spanish Costume!!! I have this book and it is fantastic (okay, mundanely I'm a professional tailor and costumer, so this is the Holy Grail to me).A tip on using this book - read the intro and make a chart of measurements (an "L" equals, etc.) and buy pattern paper with a graph pre-printed. An excellent companion book is "Patterns of Fashion" by Janet Arnold ISBN 0-333-38284-6. This will explain period construction as well as give a clue on how to actually use the patterns in the tailor's book. Elisabeta Rosa d'Morta >JUAN DE ALCEGA'S TAILORS PATTERN BOOK 1589: Facsimile >Juan de Alcega, Ruth Bean (Costume and Fashion Press) >This facsimile and translation will fascinate costumers. The patterns are >like the lay-outs for cutting found in modern patterns: small drawings >showing the shape of each pattern piece, with instructions. The entire >manuscript is shown in the original, then again, translated, with all the >drawings by their descriptions and instructions. Alcega showed how to make >doublets, cloaks, cassocks, morning gowns, Spanish gowns, kirtles, mantles, >bodices and skirts, and more, including a farthingale. Note: the finished >garments are not shown. 177 pages, soft-cover. 135 drawn patterns. Size: 8 >x 11. >Price: $39.95 Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 17:03:59 -0700 From: Lynn Meyer To: Subject: Re: Spanish Costume!!! In general, you could try the SCA-Garb list -- info on how to subscribe should be in one of the two lists of SCA lists, http://lists.ansteorra.org/sca-faq.html#sec2.1 and http://lists.ansteorra.org/lists.html . They've given a few websites with Spanish paintings and such, just recently while discussing plaids, and undoubtedly know more websites. In particular: _Hispanic Costume 1480 -1530_ by Ruth Matilda Anderson, ISBN 0875351263, published by Hispanic Society of America, although I too have heard it's out of print. The Alcega, from 1589 plus modern material discussing it. This should still be in print; I got it at Barnes & Noble a couple years ago. If you're willing to go to more trouble, there are also some sources in Spanish (with lots of photos of primary sources): Trajes y Modas en la Espana de los Reyes Catolicos -- I. Las Mujeres and (ditto) -- II. Los Hombres [with a tilde, ~, over the n in Espana, and an accent mark over the first o in Catolicos] [roughly, "Clothing and Fashion in the Spain of the Catholic Kings", that is, Ferdinand and Isabella -- "I. The Women", "II. The Men"] both by Carmen Bernis, part of the Artes Y Artistas series of the Instituto Diego Velazquez, Del Consejo Superior de Investigaciones Cientificas, Madrid, Spain; 1978 for Las Mujeres, which is ISBN 84-00-03781-2 1979 for Los Hombres, ISBN 84-00-04453-3. Copyright by Instituto Diego Velazquez, but apparently printed by Graficas Condor, S.A., Sanchez Pacheco, 81, Madrid, Spain. I managed to order them directly from Spain some years ago, through a friend of a friend who wrote the letter for me in Spanish. Since then I've been told that a lot of museums can handle English, though, so if they're still in print, you might be able to order them by simply writing in English. The same author also wrote an earlier book that I photocopied from the Univ. of Calif. Berkeley library some years ago, since it was out of print -- I'd be delighted to buy an original if one turned up, but I'm not holding my breath -- Indumentaria Medieval Espanola [with a tilde over the n in Espanola] [roughly, "Medieval Spanish Clothing"], by Carmen Bernis Madrazo, Instituto Diego Velazquez, Del Consejo Superior de Investigaciones Cientificas, Madrid, 1955. Spanish clothing is fun! If you like wearing something just a bit different from others, but absolutely documentable, Spanish has a wealth of choices :-) Halima de la Lucha, of Spanish persona myself P.S. There's a MedievalSpain list on eGroups your husband might enjoy. modern: Lynn Meyer, Silicon Valley, northern CA, USA SCA: Halima de la Lucha, Crosston, Mists, West Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 20:27:45 -0500 From: "Dr. Grace Morris" To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu Subject: Re: Spanish Costume!!! What time period? There are 2 books and one article in English. The Alcega is very late period, and you need to have your "Elizabethan" skills in order to use it. The Anderson is easier, but also covers a limited time period. I have an extensive bibliography, but everything is in Spanish. Narrowing things down would help. Jessamyn di Piemonte Date: Fri, 07 May 2004 21:30:26 -0700 From: Lynn Meyer Subject: [SCA-AS] Re: Links: Costuming (Lis) To: artssciences at lists.gallowglass.org, "Lis" Thank you for another wonderful list of links, Dame Aoife! I really enjoy these. I have a couple of comments on this most recent one: <<< Spain, the Early Years: Costume of the Visigoths, Mozarabes, and the Northern Christian Kingdoms by Maddalena Jessamyn di Piemonte Originally printed in Seams Like Old Times, Issue #18 http://moas.atlantia.sca.org/oak/13/spain.htm (Site Excerpt) Early Spanish costume has not been widely explored; the casual browser will find little mention of this period in general sources on costume, and little iconographic evidence in general, or even somewhat specific art sources. What few reference works we have are in Spanish, and to find pictorial representations often requires a major library. The search, however, is worth the trouble, for what emerges is a body of unique garments, largely unknown and usually quite foreign to the traditions of the rest of Western Europe. >>> Mistress Jessamyn now has her own website about early Spanish costume, http://www.jessamynscloset.com which contains much more information than this earlier article. -- including color pictures of original sources. Halima From: "Artemisia" Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: Spanish garb Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2004 07:14:55 -0700 "Slohan469" wrote: > Does anyone have a source for spanish garb patterns or a source of pics of > spanish garb My recommendaton is a book: Hispanic Costume 1480 - 1530, by Ruth Anderson ISBN 0875351263 From: bookshop at charter.net (medievalbooks) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: Spanish garb Date: 24 Sep 2004 14:09:22 -0700 Another author on Spanish garb as well as lace making is Florence Lewis May published by the Hispanic Society in the 1930's-50's. Her books are scarce as hen's teeth to get hold of tho. Gwyneth ui ingean Mhathghamhna The Haunted Bookshop From: clevin at ripco.com (Craig Levin) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: Spanish garb Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2004 10:16:05 +0000 (UTC) Slohan469 wrote: >Does anyone have a source for spanish garb patterns or a source of pics of >spanish garb If you're interested in the Age of Exploration, I do. Please feel free to visit my list of references for people building Iberian personae at: http://pages.ripco.net/~clevin/list.html Pedro -- http://pages.ripco.net/~clevin/index.html clevin at ripco.com Craig Levin Librarians Rule: Oook! From: "Cynthia Gee" Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: Spanish garb Date: Sun, 03 Oct 2004 15:14:00 GMT Juan de Alcega, a master tailor, was granted licence to print a book of his patterns, and did so in 1589. The book is currently making the rounds. You can view parts of it at , and it's not a very expensive purchase. ~Don Andrew Blake To: gleannabhann at yahoogroups.com Subject: Hispanic Costume Book Posted by: "Malinda" duchessmalinda2004 at yahoo.com duchessmalinda2004 Date: Thu Nov 19, 2009 3:08 pm ((PST)) I just got a book in the mail I have wanted for ages! While doing research for my book, "Daily Living In Renaissance Spain," I frequently consulted a book at U of A called "Hispanic Costume." by Ruth Anderson, printed in 1979. The Poison Pen Press obtained two boxes of this book and I was able to purchase one. They still have a few more copies available if anyone is interested. It is a valuable reference not just for those interested in Renaissance Spain, but for all of Europe. The total was $31 and that was with shipping. It is a steal! Malinda www.poisonpenpress.com Edited by Mark S. Harris cl-Spain-msg Page 10 of 10