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cl-Spain-msg - 12/22/09

 

Clothing of medieval Spain.

 

NOTE: See also the files: cl-Moorish-msg, cl-Celts-msg, clothing-books-msg, corsets-msg, hoops-msg, patterns-msg, fd-Spain-msg, Spain-msg.

 

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NOTICE -

 

This file is a collection of various messages having a common theme that I  have collected from my reading of the various computer networks. Some messages date back to 1989, some may be as recent as yesterday.

 

This file is part of a collection of files called Stefan's Florilegium. These files are available on the Internet at: http://www.florilegium.org

 

I  have done  a limited amount  of  editing. Messages having to do  with separate topics  were sometimes split into different files and sometimes extraneous information was removed. For instance, the  message IDs  were removed to save space and remove clutter.

 

The comments made in these messages are not necessarily my viewpoints. I make  no claims  as  to the accuracy  of  the information  given by the individual authors.

 

Please  respect the time  and  efforts of  those who have written  these messages. The  copyright status  of these messages  is  unclear at this time. If  information  is  published  from  these  messages, please give credit to the originator(s).

 

Thank you,

    Mark S. Harris                  AKA:  THLord Stefan li Rous

                                          Stefan at florilegium.org

************************************************************************

 

From: jdejesus at eden.rutgers.edu (Ramirez)

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

Subject: Re: Spanish Personna

Date: 29 Jun 1996 15:52:21 -0400

Organization: Rutgers University

 

dpirko at uoguelph.ca (Denise Pirko) writes:

>Greetings from Katje

 

>A friend of mine is trying to find information so she can develop a

>spanish personna.  Unfortunately we have a rather pitiful library here at

>the University of Guelph, so I am trying to get names of books on names

>and dress, mostly for the time after 1300, so we can use the wonderful

>interlibrary loan system.  

 

>Katje

 

While I don't have a suggestion for a name book, I should point out that the name will vary greatly depending on wether she intends to be from southern Spain (primarily Muslim) or Northern Spain (Primarily Christian). But this will

also vary by the ecact time period your friends persona chooses because between

the 9th and 15th centuries Muslim influence in Spain varies.

 

        As for costuming I would reccomend this book:

 

106 RUTGERS UNIVERSITY      - IRIS LIBRARY SYSTEM -   ALL *TITLE SEARCH

 

                                                       Citation   1 of   1

   AUTHOR Anderson, Ruth Matilda.

    TITLE Hispanic costume, 1480-1530 / by Ruth Matilda Anderson.

PUBLISHER New York : Hispanic Society of America, 1979.

  DESCRIP x, 293 p. : ill. ; 29 cm.

   SERIES Hispanic notes & monographs, essays, studies, and brief biographies :

          Peninsular series

    NOTES Includes index. * Bibliography: p. 265-269.

SUBJECTS Costume -- Spain -- History. * Costume -- Portugal -- History.

  LC CARD    78066880

     ISBN 0875351263

  RLIN ID G81-B764

 

        While on the late end, (you asked for post 1300) It is very thourough.

It gives various close ups of the garments from period artwork as well as

descriptions of the garments as well. Althogh it primarily deals with Christian

fashin it does have some Muslim fashions as well.

 

                                -In Service,

                                        Julio DeJesus

                                Anibal Rivera Ramirez DeJesus

 

 

From: foxd at silver.ucs.indiana.edu (daniel fox)

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

Subject: Re:  Spanish Garb

Date: 11 Jul 1996 04:55:07 GMT

Organization: Indiana University, Bloomington

 

In article <4s1vqu$e9o at newsbf02.news.aol.com>,

Shire2308 <shire2308 at aol.com> wrote:

 

>I live in Toledo, the capital of Espana.  It is the first half of the 16th

>Century.  Unfortunately, I am having a difficult time making clothing for

>myself because I can not seem to find good patterns (or sources).  Can

>anyone help me?  

>

>Gracias,

>Cristina Eulalia  

 

Patterns will be hard to find for your period; you'll have to work them out

for yourself.  Two books which should be useful for your period are:

 

Anderson, Ruth M. Hispanic Costume, 1480-1530.  Hispanic Society of America.

1979.  

 

Bernis Madrazo, Carmen  Trajes Y Modes en las Espana de los Reyes Catolicos.

Serie Artes y Artista.  Institute Diego Valzquez del Consejo Superior de

Investiations Cientificas.  Madrid: 1978. (2 volumes. 1) La Mujeres; 2) Los

Hombres.)

 

(I don't guarantee that all information is correctly transcribed for that

last one, except for author and title.  High School Spainsh was a LONG time

ago.)

 

These books are probably out of print, but are probably available through ILL.

 

Audelindis de Rheims

 

 

From: dickeney at access1.digex.net (Dick Eney)

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

Subject: Re: Spanish  research

Date: 30 Oct 1996 18:28:54 -0500

Organization: Express Access Online Communications, Greenbelt, MD USA

 

JoAnne <jo_anne at abm.com> wrote:

>If there is anyone out there who could point me the right direction in

>locating any books on Spanish garb from around the year 1500.  I had found

>a really great book called the "Hispanic costume 14?? to 15??"  but it's

>out of print so I can't get it.  any other titles would be great.

 

>Dona Lucia de Valencia

 

I assume you found Hispanic Costume 1480-1530 by Ruth Matilda Anderson,

copyright 1979.  Another book to try for is: Historic Costume - A

Chronicle of Fashion in Western Europe, by Francis Kelly and Rudolph

Schwabe. copyright 1929-1968, reprinted 1988.  It begins with 1490 AD and

includes some Spanish costume.

 

=Tamar the Gypsy (sharing account dickeney at access.digex.net)

 

 

From: TDLEC at aol.com

Date: Mon, 13 Jan 1997 23:57:32 -0500 (EST)

To: markh at risc.sps.mot.com

Subject: Re: TORQUEAMDA PERIOD

 

I got this in the mail today, not to sure what to do with it though. I guess

go look it up.

 

bruce horton

----

Anderson, Ruth M. Hispanic Costume, 1480-1530.  Hispanic Society of America.

1979.  

 

Bernis Madrazo, Carmen  Trajes Y Modes en las Espana de los Reyes Catolicos.

Serie Artes y Artista.  Institute Diego Valzquez del Consejo Superior de

Investiations Cientificas.  Madrid: 1978. (2 volumes. 1) La Mujeres; 2) Los

Hombres.)

 

 

From: ladyval at aol.com (Lady Val)

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

Subject: Re: TORQUEAMDA PERIOD

Date: 26 Jan 1997 00:37:25 GMT

 

Bruce Horton, tdlec at aol.com (TDLEC) asked:

 

>I'm new to SCA and want to know more on the Torquemada period 1400-1500,

>the Inquisition and Spanish Court Costumes for men.

 

My SCA persona is Spanish, and I have an interest in the period to which

you refer.  I found a wonderful book by Ruth Matilda Anderson entitled

HISPANIC COSTUME 1480-1530 with 569 illustrations in black and white and 8

in foll color.  

 

I dont remember where I got the book, but I believe I ordered it from some

mail order catalogue of historical books.  It is published by Halliday

Lithograph, copyright 1979 by the Hispanic Society of America, New York.

 

It has the first half of the book divided into a section "Men and their

Dress Occasions" and the entire book is made up of small sections of

paintings and statues with notes about each type of clothing for men and

women both.  It has excellent documentation of the year and person who

wore that particular article of clothing.  Within each section there are

sections entitled "Hair Styles" and another one "Headgear" down to

"Footwear."

 

I hope you could locate this book and it would be helpful to you.  I have

learned a lot from the notes in the book.

 

H E Valencia Carlota Maria de Granada

(16th century Spanish noblewoman in the court of Catherine of Aragon,

first wife of Henry VIII)

 

mka - Janice Terrell

email - Lady Val  at  aol.com

 

 

From: N.D. Wederstrandt <nweders at mail.utexas.edu>

Newsgroups: austin.org.sca

Date: Wednesday, August 19, 1998 5:27 AM

Subject: Re: BG - Spannish Garb

 

The Dutch were controlled by the Spanish in the latter part of the 17th

century.  Philip II, husband to Mary Tudor, was King (emperor) over them.

So it would be logical and appropriate for you to find heavy Spanish

influence on the Dutch.   (and vice versa)

 

It's fun to note that the Dutch were thorns in Spain's side during this time.

 

As another side note there is a period (1650+ Spanish Tailor's book that

has been reproduced  with patterns and such.  It's pretty cool.

 

Clare

 

 

Subject: Re: BG - Spannish Garb

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 98 14:56:36 MST

From: "N.D. Wederstrandt" <nweders at mail.utexas.edu>

To: bryn-gwlad at Ansteorra.ORG

 

It took a second but I found the info in the UT Online Catalog.

 

The name of the book is The "Tailor's Pattern Book: 1589 facsimile" by Juan

de Alcega, Published by Carlton, Bedford, 1979.  It is translated into

English.  ISBN # is 905585065

It's a very neat book so if you can find it you should have fun!

 

ALso Janet Arnold's books on English costuming have some good tips on

construction of doublets and such.

 

Clare

 

 

Subject: Re: Welshmen in Sideless Sircoats/Men in Spain

Date: Sun, 1 Nov 1998 23:00:05 -0500 (EST)

From: Grace Morris <gmorris at cs14.pds.charlotte.nc.us>

To: Robert J Welenc <rjwelenc at erols.com>

CC: Atlantia at atlantia.sca.org

 

Sources to Help You in the Construction of the Clothing of

13th Century Spain   from Mistress Maddalena Jessamyn di Piemonte

(sorry, I can't underline in this stupid system we have...)

 

Anderson, Ruth Matilda.  (1942).  "Pleated Headresses of Castilla and

Leon (12th and 13th Centuries)".  In Notes  Hispanic, 1942,

p.50-75.excellent

 

Bernis (Madroza), Carmen.  (1954). "Tapiceria Hispano Musulmana (Siglos

IX-XI)."  Archivo Espanol de Arte, 27,  p.189-211.

 

__________________.  (1956).  oIndumetaria Medieval Espanola.  Madrid:

Institute Diego Velasquez.  through late 15th c.

 

__________________.  (1956).  Tapiceria Hispano-Musulmana (Siglos XII y

XIV).  Archivo  Espanol de Arte, 29,    p.95-115.

 

__________________.  (1970).  La Moda y las Imagenes Goticas de la

Virgen.  Claves Para su Fechacion.  Archivo     Espanol de

Arte, 43, p.193-218. timelines for the evolution of the

basic camica, saya

 

Canderra y Solano, d. Valentin.  (1864).  Iconagrafia Espanola-

Colleccion de Retratos, Estatuas, Mausoleos y   Demas

Monumentos Inededitos de Reyes, Reines, Grandes Capitanes,

Escritores, Etc. desde el Siglio XI hasta el VII.  Madrid: Imprenta de

Don Romon Campuzano. surpisingly accurate source, drawings from tombs

 

Lovillo, Jose Guerrero.  (1949).  Las Cantigas:  estudio arqueolologico

des sus miniaturas.  Madrid:  Instituto Diego Velasquez. good

categorization of clothing types, but questionable     because of

pattern conjecture...also weapons, architecture, clerical vestments

 

(also look in various art books, too many to list here!)

 

 

Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2000 18:11:40 -0700 (PDT)

From: Gabrielle Bombard <KiaraPanther at excite.com>

To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu

Subject: Re: footwear help

 

I just picked up this really cool book from the library called Hispanic

Costume 1480-1535 (I think).  It has a whole section on footwear using

period paintings and sculptures as examples.  It would be a good place to

start, as Italy and Spain seemed to exchange ideas rapidly.

 

--Kiara

 

 

Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2000 21:54:51 -0400

From: Carol Thomas <scbooks at neca.com>

To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu

Subject: Re: Spanish Costume!!!

 

I've heard that the Hispanic Costume book is great, but as far as I know it

is out of print.  You could try ILL to see if it can be borrowed.

 

This book is in print, and is very helpful in making patterns.  

 

JUAN DE ALCEGA'S TAILORS PATTERN BOOK 1589: Facsimile

Juan de Alcega, Ruth Bean (Costume and Fashion Press)

This facsimile and translation will fascinate costumers. The patterns are

like the lay-outs for cutting found in modern patterns: small drawings

showing the shape of each pattern piece, with instructions.  The entire

manuscript is shown in the original, then again, translated, with all the

drawings by their descriptions and instructions. Alcega showed how to make

doublets, cloaks, cassocks, morning gowns, Spanish gowns, kirtles, mantles,

bodices and skirts, and more, including a farthingale. Note: the finished

garments are not shown. 177 pages, soft-cover. 135 drawn patterns. Size: 8

x 11.

Price: $39.95

 

Carllein

 

 

Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 05:07:38 -0700

From: Mary Hysong <ladymari at cybertrails.com>

To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu

Subject: Re: Spanish Costume!!!

 

Carol Thomas wrote:

> I've heard that the Hispanic Costume book is great, but as far as I know it

> is out of print.  You could try ILL to see if it can be borrowed.

>

> This book is in print, and is very helpful in making patterns.

>

> JUAN DE ALCEGA'S TAILORS PATTERN BOOK 1589:

 

this is a great book for pattern making if you have a clue what the

finished garment should look like ;-) I did discover that if you traced

off the patterns given onto graph paper, 10 sguares to the inch, then

blow it up so each square becomes an inch, it will pretty much give you

a full size pattern that you can then tailor to the person. I used them

several years ago to make some things for my girls.

 

Mairi, Atenveldt.

PS the publisher claims that the Spanish ell is the same size as a

modern meter.

 

 

Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 13:24:44 EDT

From: "Liz Rose" <rosamorta at hotmail.com>

To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu

Subject: Re: Spanish Costume!!!

 

I have this book and it is fantastic (okay, mundanely I'm a professional

tailor and costumer, so this is the Holy Grail to me).A tip on using this

book - read the intro and make a chart of measurements (an "L" equals, etc.)

and buy pattern paper with a graph pre-printed. An excellent companion book

is "Patterns of Fashion" by Janet Arnold ISBN 0-333-38284-6. This will

explain period construction as well as give a clue on how to actually use

the patterns in the tailor's book.

 

Elisabeta Rosa d'Morta

 

>JUAN DE ALCEGA'S TAILORS PATTERN BOOK 1589: Facsimile

>Juan de Alcega, Ruth Bean (Costume and Fashion Press)

>This facsimile and translation will fascinate costumers. The patterns are

>like the lay-outs for cutting found in modern patterns: small drawings

>showing the shape of each pattern piece, with instructions.  The entire

>manuscript is shown in the original, then again, translated, with all the

>drawings by their descriptions and instructions. Alcega showed how to make

>doublets, cloaks, cassocks, morning gowns, Spanish gowns, kirtles, mantles,

>bodices and skirts, and more, including a farthingale. Note: the finished

>garments are not shown. 177 pages, soft-cover. 135 drawn patterns. Size: 8

>x 11.

>Price: $39.95

 

 

Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 17:03:59 -0700

From: Lynn Meyer <lmeyer at netbox.com>

To: <sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu>

Subject: Re: Spanish Costume!!!

 

In general, you could try the SCA-Garb list -- info on how to subscribe

should be in one of the two lists of SCA lists,

http://lists.ansteorra.org/sca-faq.html#sec2.1  and

http://lists.ansteorra.org/lists.html .

They've given a few websites with Spanish paintings and such,

just recently while discussing plaids, and undoubtedly know more websites.

 

In particular:

 

_Hispanic Costume 1480 -1530_ by Ruth Matilda Anderson,

ISBN 0875351263, published by Hispanic Society of America,

although I too have heard it's out of print.

 

The Alcega, from 1589 plus modern material discussing it.

This should still be in print; I got it at Barnes & Noble

a couple years ago.

 

If you're willing to go to more trouble, there are also some

sources in Spanish (with lots of photos of primary sources):

 

Trajes y Modas en la Espana de los Reyes Catolicos -- I. Las Mujeres

and (ditto) -- II. Los Hombres

[with a tilde, ~, over the n in Espana, and an accent mark over the

first o in Catolicos]

[roughly, "Clothing and Fashion in the Spain of the Catholic Kings",

that is, Ferdinand and Isabella -- "I. The Women", "II. The Men"]

 

both by Carmen Bernis,

part of the Artes Y Artistas series of the Instituto Diego Velazquez,

Del Consejo Superior de Investigaciones Cientificas, Madrid, Spain;

 

1978 for Las Mujeres, which is ISBN 84-00-03781-2

1979 for Los Hombres, ISBN 84-00-04453-3.

 

Copyright by Instituto Diego Velazquez, but apparently printed by

Graficas Condor, S.A., Sanchez Pacheco, 81, Madrid, Spain.

 

I managed to order them directly from Spain some years ago, through

a friend of a friend who wrote the letter for me in Spanish.  Since then

I've been told that a lot of museums can handle English, though,

so if they're still in print, you might be able to order them by

simply writing in English.

 

The same author also wrote an earlier book that I photocopied from

the Univ. of Calif. Berkeley library some years ago, since it was

out of print -- I'd be delighted to buy an original if one turned up,

but I'm not holding my breath --

Indumentaria Medieval Espanola [with a tilde over the n in Espanola]

[roughly, "Medieval Spanish Clothing"],

by Carmen Bernis Madrazo,

Instituto Diego Velazquez,

Del Consejo Superior de Investigaciones Cientificas, Madrid, 1955.

 

Spanish clothing is fun!  If you like wearing something just a bit

different from others, but absolutely documentable, Spanish has

a wealth of choices :-)

 

Halima de la Lucha, of Spanish persona myself

 

P.S. There's a MedievalSpain list on eGroups your husband might enjoy.

 

modern: Lynn Meyer, Silicon Valley, northern CA, USA

SCA: Halima de la Lucha, Crosston, Mists, West

<LMeyer at netbox.com>

 

 

Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 20:27:45 -0500

From: "Dr. Grace Morris" <gmorris at cs14.pds.charlotte.nc.us>

To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu

Subject: Re: Spanish Costume!!!

 

What time period?

 

There are 2 books and one article in English.  The Alcega is very late

period, and you need to have your "Elizabethan" skills in order to use

it.  The Anderson is easier, but also covers a limited time period.  I

have an extensive bibliography, but everything is in Spanish.  Narrowing

things down would help.

 

Jessamyn di Piemonte

 

 

Date: Fri, 07 May 2004 21:30:26 -0700

From: Lynn Meyer <lmeyer at netbox.com>

Subject: [SCA-AS] Re: Links: Costuming (Lis)

To: artssciences at lists.gallowglass.org, "Lis" <liontamr at ptd.net>

 

Thank you for another wonderful list of links, Dame Aoife! I really

enjoy these.

 

I have a couple of comments on this most recent one:

 

<huge snip>

<<< Spain, the Early Years:

Costume of the Visigoths, Mozarabes, and the Northern Christian Kingdoms

by Maddalena Jessamyn di Piemonte Originally printed in Seams Like Old

Times, Issue #18

http://moas.atlantia.sca.org/oak/13/spain.htm

(Site Excerpt) Early Spanish costume has not been widely explored; the

casual browser will find little mention of this period in general sources on

costume, and little iconographic evidence in general, or even somewhat

specific art sources. What few reference works we have are in Spanish, and

to find pictorial representations often requires a major library. The

search, however, is worth the trouble, for what emerges is a body of unique

garments, largely unknown and usually quite foreign to the traditions of the

rest of Western Europe. >>>

 

Mistress Jessamyn now has her own website about early

Spanish costume,

http://www.jessamynscloset.com

which contains much more information than this earlier article.

-- including color pictures of original sources.

 

Halima

 

 

From: "Artemisia" <kerribernhard at comcast.net>

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

Subject: Re: Spanish garb

Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2004 07:14:55 -0700

 

"Slohan469" <slohan469 at aol.com> wrote:

> Does anyone have a source for spanish garb patterns or a source of pics of

> spanish garb

 

My recommendaton is a book:

Hispanic Costume 1480 - 1530, by Ruth Anderson ISBN 0875351263

 

 

From: bookshop at charter.net (medievalbooks)

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

Subject: Re: Spanish garb

Date: 24 Sep 2004 14:09:22 -0700

 

Another author on Spanish garb as well as lace making is Florence

Lewis May published by the Hispanic Society in the 1930's-50's. Her

books are scarce as hen's teeth to get hold of tho.

 

Gwyneth ui ingean Mhathghamhna

The Haunted Bookshop

 

 

From: clevin at ripco.com (Craig Levin)

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

Subject: Re: Spanish garb

Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2004 10:16:05 +0000 (UTC)

 

Slohan469 <slohan469 at aol.com> wrote:

>Does anyone have a source for spanish garb patterns or a source of pics of

>spanish garb

 

If you're interested in the Age of Exploration, I do. Please feel

free to visit my list of references for people building Iberian

personae at:

http://pages.ripco.net/~clevin/list.html

 

Pedro

--

http://pages.ripco.net/~clevin/index.html

clevin at ripco.com

Craig Levin                         Librarians Rule: Oook!

 

 

From: "Cynthia Gee" <goldndog at earthlink.com>

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

Subject: Re: Spanish garb

Date: Sun, 03 Oct 2004 15:14:00 GMT

 

Juan de Alcega, a master tailor, was granted licence to print a book of his

patterns, and did so in 1589.  The book is currently making the rounds.  You

can view parts of it at <vertetsable.com>, and it's not a very expensive

purchase.

 

~Don Andrew Blake

 

 

To: gleannabhann at yahoogroups.com

Subject: Hispanic Costume Book

Posted by: "Malinda" duchessmalinda2004 at yahoo.com duchessmalinda2004

Date: Thu Nov 19, 2009 3:08 pm ((PST))

 

I just got a book in the mail I have wanted for ages! While doing research for my book, "Daily Living In Renaissance Spain," I frequently consulted a book at U of A called "Hispanic Costume." by Ruth Anderson, printed in 1979. The Poison Pen Press obtained two boxes of this book and I was able to purchase one.

 

They still have a few more copies available if anyone is interested. It is a valuable reference not just for those interested in Renaissance Spain, but for all of Europe. The total was $31 and that was with shipping. It is a steal!

 

Malinda

www.poisonpenpress.com

 

<the end>



Formatting copyright © Mark S. Harris (THLord Stefan li Rous).
All other copyrights are property of the original article and message authors.

Comments to the Editor: stefan at florilegium.org