cl-Mid-East-msg - 5/8/13 Period clothing of the Middle East. Referances. Persia. NOTE: See also the files: cl-Moorish-msg, cl-Spain-msg, turbans-msg, clothing-bib, patterns-msg, Moors-msg, Khazars-msg, Jews-msg, Palestine-msg. ************************************************************************ NOTICE - This file is a collection of various messages having a common theme that I have collected from my reading of the various computer networks. Some messages date back to 1989, some may be as recent as yesterday. This file is part of a collection of files called Stefan's Florilegium. These files are available on the Internet at: http://www.florilegium.org I have done a limited amount of editing. Messages having to do with separate topics were sometimes split into different files and sometimes extraneous information was removed. For instance, the message IDs were removed to save space and remove clutter. The comments made in these messages are not necessarily my viewpoints. I make no claims as to the accuracy of the information given by the individual authors. Please respect the time and efforts of those who have written these messages. The copyright status of these messages is unclear at this time. If information is published from these messages, please give credit to the originator(s). Thank you, Mark S. Harris AKA: THLord Stefan li Rous Stefan at florilegium.org ************************************************************************ From: manderson2 at aol.com (MAnderson2) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: Moorish/Andalusian garb Date: 16 Dec 1994 03:15:17 -0500 kellmer at u.washington.edu (Brent Kellmer) writes: >Does anyone out there with experience in islamic costuming have any >suggestions? Is the abba (or more specifically, this type of robe) >period? Failing that, is there a period equivalent? I would suggest the following books as references: Historic Persian Dress 1200-1650 by Linda Hendrick The Silk Road: a History by Irene M. Franck and David M. Brownstone Constantinople City on the Golden Horn by David Jacobs Women in Islam by Wiebke Walther My wife used them when researching Arabic costumes. Bernard the Nameless (mka Mark T. Anderson) Date: Wed, 23 Jul 1997 11:06:56 -0700 From: Lynn Douglass To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu Subject: Arab Dress I just ran across a reference in Compleat Anachronist #14 to an article in Tournaments Illuminated #51 (Summer 1979) titled, "Arab Dress and How to Make It." On a long shot, would anyone have a copy of this article, or know if it was ever reprinted? That back issue of TI seems to be out of print, though I have put in a request to the editor. 'Ijliyah Date: Fri, 25 Jul 1997 11:55:56 -0400 (EDT) From: Varju at aol.com To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu Subject: Re: Middle Eastern personas A source that I stumbled on and have found very useful is: _Women's Costume of the Near and Far East_ by Jennifer Scarce. copyright 1987 by Jennifer Scarce, published in 1987 by Unwin Hyman ltd., London, North Sidney, and Wellington. ISBN 0-04-391011-4 Its main focus is Turkish costume and its influence on Balkan and Middle Eastern costume. An excellent book with excellent illustrations. Noemi Date: 25 Jul 1997 08:47:12 -0700 From: "Marisa Herzog" To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu Subject: Re: Arab Dress >From what I understand, while a sort of Salwaar-kameez is appropriate for Berber, and for late Indian, the sari is in no way appropriate, any more than a "traditional" western costume is, being an eighteenth century fashion thing. The little research I have done (admittedly, just a few books particularly moghul period, and form investigating while I was over There is a reproduction of a minuture in a book called "The Harem, behind the veil". The picture is 15-16thC and shows indian women wearing *very* sheer choli and shirts, layered skirts over pantaloons and large veil/scarves which might pass for saris worn very casually. They are showing a heck of a lot more than just navel. Of course they are inside, not on the street. brid Date: Wed, 26 Nov 1997 13:06:49 -0500 (EST) From: To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu Subject: Re: Turkish costuming _Women's Costume for the Near and Far East_ by Jennifer Scarce is also an excellent source of ideas for Turkish costume. There are a number of pictures from traveler's diaries from just outside period (early 1600's) that are excellent as well as good descriptions. It also contains a few patterns from much later garments that were laid out that can give you a good idea on contruction. I can't find my copy right now, but another great source is (I think this is the right title) _The Art of the Age of Sulyiman_ which shows the items left in the tombs of the Sultan Sulyiman and his family. not a lot on the actual women's garments, but it does have great pictures of the accessories, such as the embroidered headbands they used to keep their veils in place. As for the Pechenegs, all I know is that they are a nomadic people that pushed the Magyars from the steppes into the Carpathian Basin. I am not sure if they were a Turkic people or not. By shifting the Magyars out of the way, they may have come under the rule of the Khazars. Noemi From: theducks at greenduck.com (Steve Urbach) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: Middle eastern garb Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 16:19:17 GMT Organization: Green Duck Designs "pbou" wrote: >Hi I am a newby to the society and was wondering if anyone could help me >out with finding a design. > >I have decided on a middle eastern persona, sort of, more of a crusader >gone native. I was wondering does anyone know where I could get a pattern >for an Aba. > >Raymond of tripoli Atira's Fashions pattern AF33 (Omar's Aba) will fit your request. Available from Green Duck at web site lised below. Derek _ | \ Steve Urbach | )erek ____|_/ragonsclaw theducks at greenduck.com / / / http://www.greenduck.com From: DDFr at best.com (David Friedman) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: Middle eastern garb Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 09:47:54 -0800 Organization: Santa Clara University "pbou" wrote: >Hi I am a newby to the society and was wondering if anyone could help me >out with finding a design. > >I have decided on a middle eastern persona, sort of, more of a crusader >gone native. I was wondering does anyone know where I could get a pattern >for an Aba. Let H be the distance from hem to neck, W the full width of the finished garment. Take a rectangle H by 2W-x, where x is about 2". Fold at W/2 - x/2 and 3W/2+x/2. You now have a single piece folded into the shape of an aba. Sew the shoulder seams. Cut slits for the arms to go through (along the folds). You are done. That is how at least one period Aba (I think in the Met, labelled a "Tiraz Garment" as I recall, but in the form of an Aba) goes together--except that in the original the arm slits were woven into the cloth rather than cut. I don't know if it is how modern Abas are done or not. I have a picture in the current edition of the _Miscellany_, but the webbed edition doesn't have the pictures, and in any case is from the previous edition. You can find pictures of aba's in Max Tilke's book, which is webbed at: http://www.indiana.edu/~librcsd/etext/tilke/contents.html David/Cariadoc From: lesterw at mindspring.com (Lester Williams) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: Middle eastern garb Date: Fri, 27 Mar 1998 00:19:39 GMT "pbou" wrote: >Hi I am a newby to the society and was wondering if anyone could help me >out with finding a design. > >I have decided on a middle eastern persona, sort of, more of a crusader >gone native. I was wondering does anyone know where I could get a pattern >for an Aba. > >Raymond of tripoli The easiest way I know of to explain an aba is to take a large rectangle of fabric - fold it so that the fold is at your shoulders and the edges are however long you want the aba. Sew the sides together leaving openings for your arms and cut a slit up the front stopping at the fold. There are many ways of finishing this garment and some even have what I call Protosleeves. Max Tilke is a good source as well as Art Of Arabian Costume by Heather Colyer Ross. Most library systems can interlibrary loan this if they don't have it and the book contains patterns. Blodwen, Tribe Zareefat By the way, I don't claim that this cut and pattern is period, ust simple and functional with a finished product that has the same general line and fall as the period garment! From: DDFr at best.com (David Friedman) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: Middle eastern garb Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 22:19:50 -0800 Organization: Santa Clara University lesterw at mindspring.com wrote: >The easiest way I know of to explain an aba is to take a large >rectangle of fabric - fold it so that the fold is at your shoulders >and the edges are however long you want the aba. Sew the sides >together leaving openings for your arms and cut a slit up the front >stopping at the fold. There are many ways of finishing this garment >and some even have what I call Protosleeves. Max Tilke is a good >source as well as Art Of Arabian Costume by Heather Colyer Ross. Most >library systems can interlibrary loan this if they don't have it and >the book contains patterns. > >Good Luck! > >Blodwen, Tribe Zareefat > >By the way, I don't claim that this cut and pattern is period, just >simple and functional with a finished product that has the same >general line and fall as the period garment! Most of my abas have been made that way, but the one description I eventually found of a period garment in the form of an aba folds the other way, as described in my previous post. Of course, it is possible that both patterns were used--I just don't know. David/Cariadoc [Submitted by LYN M PARKINSON ] From: "K. E. Reinhart" To: sca-garb at coollist.com Subject: Middle Eastern garb Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 19:21:20 -0500 (EST) For Middle Eastern garb look at the following, if you can find them. Persian garb Gray, Basil. Persian Painting. Booking International, c1995. c1995. paperback ISBN 2-605-00303-5 Reproductions aren't as good as the 2 below Loukonine, Valadimir & Anatoli Ivanov. Lost Treasures of Persia: Persian Art in the Hermitage Museum. Mage Publishers, c1996. hard cover ISBN 0-934211-49-3 Excellent reproductions Lowry, Glenn D. and Susan Nemazee. A Jeweler's Eye: Islamic Arts of the Book From the Vever Collection. Washington, D. C.: Smithsonian Institution and University of Washington Press, c1988. paperback LC#88-14550 ISBN 0-295-96677-7 Keran Roslin AEthelmearc Date: Fri, 26 Feb 1999 21:26:09 EST From: To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu Subject: Re: headgear for ME? poohdrum at yahoo.com writes: << I am in search of research, photos, etc. for MiddleEastern (ME) headgear: hats, turbans, headwraps, etc. >> You might try this site: http://www.indiana.edu/~librcsd/etext/tilke/ Click on 'Begin'. This site has lots of pictures of garb for anyone interested in middle eastern costume in general although the 'cabaret' crowd might find it disppointing. :-) Ras. Date: Sat, 27 Feb 1999 20:59:50 -0500 From: capriest at cs.vassar.edu (Carolyn Priest-Dorman) To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu Subject: Re: headgear for ME? Wynnie wrote: >I am in search of research, photos, etc. for MiddleEastern (ME) >headgear: hats, turbans, headwraps, etc. What time period and location are you interested in researching? Cariadoc's _Miscellany_ has a brief article about Islamic attire that includes something about a turban. There are some very good references in the bibliography. _Early Islamic Textiles_, referenced there, has a photo of a cap. You can find this article at: http://www.pbm.com/~lindahl/cariadoc/islamic_clothing.html The Tilke book on the website Ras mentioned seems to focus on the dress that was current in Tilke's day, not on medieval dress. Also, if this book by Tilke is as inaccurate as his _A Pictorial History of Costume_, I wouldn't place a lot of faith in it. Carolyn Priest-Dorman Thora Sharptooth capriest at cs. vassar. edu Frostahlid, Austrrik Date: Tue, 02 Mar 1999 16:29:57 -0500 From: capriest at cs.vassar.edu (Carolyn Priest-Dorman) To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu Subject: Re: headgear for ME? I knew I had another source rooting around here somewhere! Gillian Eastwood, "Textiles," pp. 285-326 in Donald S. Whitcomb and Janet H. Johnson, _Quseir al-Qadim 1980 Preliminary Report_. American Research Center in Egypt Reports, Vol. 7 (Malibu: Undena Publications 1982). The Quseir al-Qadim finds are from two distinct periods--the Roman period and a later Islamic one (I think about the 14th century, but I foolishly didn't copy that page)--at an Egyptian site near the Red Sea. With respect to the Islamic finds at this site, the chapter discusses several extant examples of caps and veils, and also offers a tunic cutting draft. There's also a page of seam finishings, information on some veils, weaving details on the textiles, and all sorts of similar goodies. Other chapters in the book (e.g., "wooden objects," and the one on foodstuffs they found) will prove equally enthralling to those with Islamic personae. Carolyn Priest-Dorman Thora Sharptooth capriest at cs. vassar. edu Frostahlid, Austrrik To: Authentic_SCA at yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: Simple Authentic Persian/Turkish Garb Posted by: "Lilinah" lilinah at earthlink.net urtatim_alqurtubiyya Date: Wed Sep 10, 2008 3:27 pm (PDT) Elisabeth wrote: >So there is an upcoming event that is themed middle eastern. I >thought it be fun if I could find some info and patterns for simple >garb. All the items I have found were 16th c. and not so simple. > >Does anyone have anything out there a bit earlier? I just wanted to >have a bit of fun with it and keep it easy. This is will be one of >those once in awhile things like my viking garb. I'm not sure which Turkish you're thinking of, since there were several significant Turkish groups within SCA period. Persian 16th C. Persian is pretty simple. Unfortunately the Persian patterns from http://reconstructinghistory.com have not yet been published. But i host Rashid's Persian patterns on my website. Main body is rectangular, sleeves are simple trapezoids. http://home.earthlink.net/~lilinah/Costuming/rashid/ Men and women for the most part wore outer garments of the same style. The hardest part is sewing on buttons and loop fasteners - garment is simple, only the finishing can be time consuming. Ottoman http://reconstructinghistory.com has already published patterns for Ottoman garb for both men and women. Ottoman garb is similar to Persian, although there are some distinctive differences, especially in the scale of the motifs on the textiles - Ottoman being quite large and most Persian being fairly small. Arabic If you want something simpler, there's 14th century Egyptian. Rashid has some patterns based on archaeological finds, as published in a scholarly book. I've made garb from my own patterns based on the same scholarly article. http://www.feoragdubh.eastkingdom.org/GarbWorkshops.php Scroll down to "Egyptian Men's Clothing" Both men and women wore the same clothing - there are existing law suits between husbands and wives over who gets to wear a particular tunic and when. There's another tunic shape common in Arabic-speaking cultures. As with the other garments, the central panel is a simple rectangle the width of which is the measurement between your shoulder points and the length is twice the measurement from your ankles to your shoulders. Rectangular sleeves or trapezoidal sleeves (narrower at the cuff), and 4 side gore pieces all the same size, two facing each way. This is very quite to assemble - 1. sew the top of each gore to each side of the underarm seam of the sleeves (that's four steps and you will have two pieces - each is gore-sleeve-gore); 2. sew each sleeve-gore assembly to the main body (two steps, just 2 long straight lines) 3. cut out the neck hole; 4. sew from armpit to hem and from armpit to cuff. 5. turn under hem and cuffs and neckline. Voila. I think that Rashid as a version of this with the "Egyptian Men's Clothing". The patterns there also include sirwal and a cloak. -- Urtatim (that's err-tah-TEEM) the persona formerly known as Anahita To: Gleann Abhann (mail list) Subject: Re: Help with a Middle Eastern Male Persona Posted by: "Judith Epstein" judith at ipstenu.org ipstenit Date: Fri Dec 4, 2009 5:25 am ((PST)) On 3 Dec 2009, at 8:07 PM, maebeline23 wrote: <<< M'Lords and M'Ladies of Gleann Abhann, I am trying to help my fiance' with his Middle Eastern Persona, but I am having no luck finding anything online. Does anyone know of any good sites that have good documentation on the garb? This persona has me stumped! Please help? Marie Isabelle Taillour >>> Many, many! It will help to know what areas of the Middle East your fiance' is looking towards, but in the meantime I've been collecting garb links, too. Madan slipper/shoes (Late 12th/Early 13th Century) http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/shoe/SHOES/SHOE45.HTM Khuff Persian Boots (Late 12th/Early 13th Century) http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/shoe/SHOES/SHOE44.HTM Gutal, Traditional Mongol Boot (Speculative) http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/shoe/SHOES/SHOE46.HTM Patterns by Rashid, a SCAdian like us! http://home.earthlink.net/~lilinah/Rashid/Rashid0.html Garb Workshops by Rashid http://www.feoragdubh.eastkingdom.org/GarbWorkshops.php Traditional Palestinian Embroidery Patterns (may or may not be Period) http://palestinianembroider.tripod.com/traditional.htm Medieval Egyptian Counted-Thread Embroidery http://home.comcast.net/~mathilde/embroidery/mameluke.htm http://home.comcast.net/~mathilde/embroidery/chartxs/ellis37.htm Mistress Safia's Middle Eastern Garb Haven (SCAdian) http://www.willofyre.com/articles.html Ottoman Turkish Garb, An Overview Of Women's Clothing, in case you want to 'match' your man http://www.katjaorlova.com/FemaleTurkishGarb.pdf SCA Persian University, including a bunch of garb links http://www.scapersianu.com/ Anahita's Near Eastern Cultural Myths, including garb myths http://home.earthlink.net/~lilinah/MEMyths.html The Art Of Arab Life -- it's in French, but you can get some great garb ideas by looking at the images http://expositions.bnf.fr/livrarab/gros_plan/illustres/ind_maqamat.htm The Red Kaganats -- includes a link to Mongolian clothing and appearance http://www.redkaganate.org/ Medieval Costume Gallery -- mostly not Middle Eastern, but still fascinating http://www.pillagedvillage.com/gramsend.html -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=- D'vorah, mka Judith Epstein Master Albrecht Waldfurster's Egg Middle Kingdom, Midlands, Ayreton, Tree-Girt-Sea (Chicago, IL) judith at ipstenu.org -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=- To: Gleann Abhann (mail list) Subject: Re: Help with a Middle Eastern Male Persona Posted by: "Nauloera ." nauloera at gmail.com merlinnedivary Date: Fri Dec 4, 2009 7:52 am ((PST)) Here are some links I found with some information too. http://www.caitlinsclothing.com/persian.htm - Instructions for 1560 Persian garb http://www.willofyre.com/periodmideastgarb.html - ME garb dos and don'ts http://www.scapersianu.com/default.htm - Persian University http://fenris.net/~lizyoung/16thCePers/16thCePersian.html - 16th Century Persian Women's Clothing http://nimenefeld.windmastershill.org/mato2009/garblinks.htm - ME garb links Kitty To: Gleann Abhann (mail list) Subject: Re: Help with a Middle Eastern Male Persona Posted by: "Nauloera ." nauloera at gmail.com merlinnedivary Date: Fri Dec 4, 2009 2:37 pm ((PST)) Here is a document on Scribd I found that might be useful. http://www.scribd.com/doc/23186620/Medieval-Islamic-Civilization-An-Encyclopedia Kitty Edited by Mark S. 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