cl-Italy-msg - 8/22/09
Clothing of medieval and Renaissance Italy.
NOTE: See also the files: Italy-msg, fashion-msg, hose-msg, clothing-books-msg, pasta-msg, popes-msg, fd-Italy-msg.
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Stefan at florilegium.org
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From: 6790753%356_WEST_58TH_5TH_FL%NEW_YORK_NY%WNET_6790753 at mcimail.COM ("KATMAN.WNETS385")
Date: 8 Nov 91 18:32:00 GMT
As to grommets being period, well, yes and no. In the Italian Renaissance
garb was made with "maglie" which were metal rings and lacing eyes. A good
reference is the book on Italian Fashion in the Quattrocento by Jaqueline
Herald (I think that's the spelling). There are many portraits of women wearing
clothes with these "maglie" and some period descriptions of women's wardrobes.
Another source for info. on metal rings used for lacing is Janet Arnold's
Patterns of Fashion 15xx - 16xx (I forget the exact dates, it's the 3rd in a
series). She shows some clothing using several different types of metal
fastenings, at least one of which is a grommet-like thing.
Now the grommets that we have (t-shaped metal rings that fasten into and
around each other and fabric) may or may not be what they used then. I have not
examined any of the period ones up close, and don't recall the descriptions
well being at work. I guess Arnold would be the better source for that, she has
taken this garb apart to see exactly how it was made. My best guess is that
they are just metal rings that were sewn around (making a reinforced eyelet).
Whether or not these sorts of fastenings were used in earlier period garb I
have no clue.
Winifred de Schyppewallebotham
(that's Middle English for "From the valley with the stream where the sheep
were washed")(Nolite Secundo Flumine Natare)
Lee Katman == Thirteen/WNET == New York, NY
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 08:44:47 -0800
From: Eleanor of Leycestershyre <hekav at gte.net>
To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu
Subject: Re: Italian Renn patterns
Anna Troy wrote:
> I'm thinking about making an Italian Renn costume. I've been looking at
> Period Patterns "Women's Italian Renaissance" Is this pattern any good? Are
> there any other pattern recommendations preferably with an url :-)? I'd
> also appretiate any suggestion that are more specificly about Italian Renn
> costume since I have been looking and there doesn't seem to be much.
>
> Anna de Byxe
I have used this pattern at least 5 times, as well as
a large number of other patterns from this mfr...also, most recently
at 12th Night. I find it works up beautifully for the most the
part, as do most of their patterns, and I really do like them
a lot. But, as someone else has said, it can be slightly confusing
due to the multiple sizings, especially if you are not used to that.
But very much less so for this pattern than some of the others
by this same manufacturer.
I have made 3 of the Venetian style gowns with the "V" bodice
and I really do not like the inset arrangement of what they
term the "stomacher" for this style. It is the worst part
of the assembly due to a hook and eye arrangement on either
side which holds it in place. I feel that it is not a
true "period" treatment for this style of gown. IMHO, that
there should actually be a separate undergown and a separate
overgown, rather than the lining/underskirt/stomacher setup
which I think is probably a "faking". It's cumbersome, and difficult
to get it "just right", overly complicated to get into, and
and I think there are better ways to achieve the same "look"
using this pattern.
Check out Lynn's page under "Ital. Ren." and you'll see a
beautiful example of one she has done like this:
http://www.jps.net/lynnmcm/lynn.html
But the gowns are very comfortable to wear, and look wonderful.
The next one I do of this style, I will use the patterns as a
springboard and work up the separate layers as I describe above.
I would also like to concur that the documentation is good, and
very helpful.
Try this site! They have links to gazillions of costuming
reference material. Look under "images". There is a link to
a site with a lot of Ital. Ren. portraits! Quite nice;
http://www.milieux.com/costume/index.html
Eleanor of Leycesterhsyre
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 06:35:37 -0900
From: jacki frederick <edenwild at alaska.net>
To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu
Subject: Re: Italian Renn patterns
Anna Troy wrote:
> I'm thinking about making an Italian Renn costume. I've been looking at
> Period Patterns "Women's Italian Renaissance" Is this pattern any good?
Period Patterns Italian is good, it has excellent documentation. I use
the pattern to get ideas for the garment I want to make. Then I used the
pattern pieces which can, in some instances become very confusing (or it
may just be me) with all the multiple size lines and the lack of good
markings. But I eventually got the right bodice pattern and use it all
the time for other garments (after making the usual fitting
adjustments). The skirts are more or less up to the individual on
fullness and length is my thought. I guess basically what I'm saying is
that I use the pattern as a base, build my own from there and they turn
out wonderful.
A good source of pictures of Italian garments is Vecellio's Images of
15th and Early 16th Century Costume which can be found at
http://costumes.org/pages/timelinepages/1500to1535a.htm
A final note, I love Italians, I mean the clothes :); you can make them
fancy, with multiple fabrics, multiple colours, they are great tourney
garb with cottons and such, and great for many figure types. PERFECT!
Elspeth Bouchannane
(A transplanted Scot in Italy)
Date: Wed, 13 Jan 1999 20:06:31 EST
From: <SigridPW at aol.com>
To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu
Subject: Re: Italian Renn Garb Question
ldyelisbth at yahoo.com writes:
<< Within my research for Italian Ren garb, I came across a picture
where the bodice portion of the underdress was laced on the sides (as
in angled to the small of the back). I was wondering if anyone knew
whether or not this was the preferred spot for lacings, or if it
changed. Most of the other portraits I have seen, the women are also
wearing overdresses, so it's hard to figure out where the lacings
would have been.>>
Italian Renaissance clothes for women of the 1485 to 1550 variety were cut
with short bodices and most commonly laced on the side or up the back.
However by the late 1500s the line was longer (though still not to the natural
waist) and pointed in the front. To create the arched fit over the hip, a
side piece was used that created the angled line in the front (from the
neckline to the pointed waist) and the angled line in the back (from the
shoulder towards the small of the back as you described). This allowed for
a more fitted bodice. A wonderful example of this type of construction is
found in Janet Arnold's book, Patterns of Fashion.
<< Second question... these girls weren't wearing aprons, and were
working in the kitchen. Are aprons something which would have been
worn? And if so, does anyone know what style it would have been?>>
There are other examples of women wearing aprons, gathered to a waistband,
tied at the waist and about knee to mid-calf length. One of my favorites
shows girl running and she has <<gasp>> SANDALS on her feet!! :o) So when
you're at one of those REALLY hot events.... :o)
<<Third question... (Boy, am I full of them tonight! ;) Does
anyone have a url for period colors for fabrics and an idea of period
trim and where it would be placed? >>
I don't have a url right off the top of my head, but a couple of my favorite
places to look for clothes ideas in general are the National Gallery and The
Uffizi Gallery (yes, it's in Florence Italy!). The Uffizi has a virtual site
called "Virtual Uffizi" (how clever!). You might also check some of the
links sites like Milieux and the Costume source.
Lady Giuglia Madelena Sarducci
Date: Wed, 28 Apr 2004 23:20:07 -0700 (PDT)
From: Anna Troy <owly3 at yahoo.se>
Subject: [SCA-AS] Finding fabrics
To: Drachenwald Mailing <dw-l at drachenwald.sca.org>,
artssciences at lists.gallowglass.org
When I was surfing around the excellent website A
Festive attire (great if your into second half 16th
century Italian etc.
http://homepage.mac.com/festive_attyre/) I stumbled on
a link to Istok Enterprises
http://istok.net/cgi-istok/catalog.cgi who sell
supplies for Orthodox Christians. Now go into Vestment
fabrics and start drooling. Then I thought "wait a
minute" and started a Google search on "vestment
fabrics" and a whole new world opened up...
Anna de Byxe
From: Dianne Russell <cat_herder at comcast.net>
Date: July 20, 2009 11:25:49 PM CDT
To: 1 castlemere <castlemere at yahoogroups.com>
Cc: Trimaris-temp <trimaris-temp at yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [tri-temp] Italian Clothing links
Here are some Italian Clothing links to fit with the theme of Fall Coronation. I have posted them on the event web site as well.
Italian Clothing http://moas.atlantia.sca.org/wsnlinks/index.php?action=displaycat&;catid=131 Italan
Renaissance Costuming Mailing list http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Italian_Renaissance_Costuming/
 Italian
Renaissance Hair Taping
http://www.mfgraffix.com/hird/faoilt/hairtape.html

Italian Renaissance Gown Construction
http://homepages.wmich.edu/~rowen/renbk/rendressbook.html

How To Make Italian Ribbon Coifs
http://www.modaruniversity.org/briana/coif1.htm

A Late 15th Century Italian Chemise Pattern
http://www.modaruniversity.org/chemise1.htm

Ever After Costumes Study Site
http://www.everaftercostumes.com/
Italian Renaissance Headgear
http://www.sword.net/jessica/firenze/ItalianRenaissanceHeadgearClass.pdf

Middle Class Italian Renaissance Gown http://genvieve.net/sca/mcitalrennotes/index.html
An Easy Italian Renaissance Gown
http://ilaria.veltri.tripod.com/italiandress.html

The Garb Closet - female and male
http://www.florentine-persona.com/closet.html
An Overview of MenŐs Clothing in Northern Italy c. 1420 - 1480
http://www.houseofpung.net/sca/15c_mens_italian.pdf

Men's Clothing in 15th Century Florence
http://www.florentine-persona.com/menflorence.html

Farsetto Construction of the Italian Renaissance (1425-1470) - man
http://home.earthlink.net/~lizjones429/farsetto.html

Mary's Italian Renaissance Costume links
http://www.quite-contrary.org/cost_link_ital.htm

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