cl-Danish-11C-art - 9/11/09
਀ഊ"A Reconstructed 11th Century Danish Costume" by Master Giles de Laval. This is a two part article. Both parts are in this file.
਀ഊNOTE: See also the files: clothing-books-msg, p-shoes-msg, underwear-msg, Norse-msg, Low-Countries-msg, fd-Norse-msg.
਀ഊ************************************************************************
਀一伀吀䤀䌀䔀 ⴀഊ
਀吀栀椀猀 愀爀琀椀挀氀攀 眀愀猀 猀甀戀洀椀琀琀攀搀 琀漀 洀攀 戀礀 琀栀攀 愀甀琀栀漀爀 昀漀爀 椀渀挀氀甀猀椀漀渀 椀渀 琀栀椀猀 猀攀琀 ഊof files, called Stefan's Florilegium. 
਀ഊThese files are available on the Internet at:
਀栀琀琀瀀㨀⼀⼀眀眀眀⸀昀氀漀爀椀氀攀最椀甀洀⸀漀爀最ഊ
਀䌀漀瀀礀爀椀最栀琀 琀漀 琀栀攀 挀漀渀琀攀渀琀猀 漀昀 琀栀椀猀 昀椀氀攀 爀攀洀愀椀渀猀 眀椀琀栀 琀栀攀 愀甀琀栀漀爀⸀ഊ
਀圀栀椀氀攀 琀栀攀 愀甀琀栀漀爀 眀椀氀氀 氀椀欀攀氀礀 最椀瘀攀 瀀攀爀洀椀猀猀椀漀渀 昀漀爀 琀栀椀猀 眀漀爀欀 琀漀 戀攀 ഊreprinted in SCA type publications, please check with the author first
਀漀爀 挀栀攀挀欀 昀漀爀 愀渀礀 瀀攀爀洀椀猀猀椀漀渀猀 最爀愀渀琀攀搀 愀琀 琀栀攀 攀渀搀 漀昀 琀栀椀猀 昀椀氀攀⸀ഊ
਀                               吀栀愀渀欀 礀漀甀Ⰰഊ                                    Mark S. Harris
਀                                    䄀䬀䄀㨀  匀琀攀昀愀渀 氀椀 刀漀甀猀ഊ                                         stefan at florilegium.org
਀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀⨀ഊ
਀䄀 刀攀挀漀渀猀琀爀甀挀琀攀搀 ㄀㄀琀栀 䌀攀渀琀甀爀礀 䐀愀渀椀猀栀 䌀漀猀琀甀洀攀 ⠀倀愀爀琀 ㄀⤀ഊby Master Giles de Laval
਀ഊ
਀䄀椀洀猀ഊ----
਀吀栀椀猀 爀攀猀攀愀爀挀栀 瀀爀漀樀攀挀琀 栀愀搀 琀眀漀 瀀爀椀洀愀爀礀 愀椀洀猀㨀ഊ
਀㄀⸀ 吀漀 爀攀挀漀渀猀琀爀甀挀琀Ⰰ 愀猀 愀甀琀栀攀渀琀椀挀愀氀氀礀 愀猀 瀀漀猀猀椀戀氀攀Ⰰ 愀渀 漀甀琀昀椀琀 猀甀挀栀 愀猀 洀椀最栀琀 栀愀瘀攀 戀攀攀渀 眀漀爀渀 戀礀 愀 洀椀搀搀氀攀ⴀ挀氀愀猀猀 ⠀昀爀攀攀⤀ 昀愀爀洀猀琀攀愀搀攀爀 漀爀 甀爀戀愀渀 搀眀攀氀氀攀爀 昀爀漀洀 攀愀爀氀礀 ㄀㄀琀栀 挀攀渀琀甀爀礀 䐀攀渀洀愀爀欀Ⰰ 戀愀猀攀搀 氀愀爀最攀氀礀 漀渀 愀爀挀栀攀漀氀漀最椀挀愀氀 攀瘀椀搀攀渀挀攀⸀ 吀栀椀猀 氀漀挀愀琀椀漀渀 愀渀搀 猀漀挀椀愀氀 挀氀愀猀猀 眀攀爀攀 挀栀漀猀攀渀 戀愀猀攀搀 漀渀 琀栀攀 愀爀挀栀愀攀漀氀漀最漀椀挀愀氀 攀瘀椀搀攀渀挀攀 愀瘀愀椀氀愀戀氀攀 昀爀漀洀 琀栀攀 瘀愀爀椀漀甀猀 昀椀渀搀猀 椀渀 䐀攀渀洀愀爀欀Ⰰ 愀渀搀 眀漀甀氀搀 最椀瘀攀 愀 洀漀爀攀 爀攀愀氀椀猀琀椀挀 椀洀瀀爀攀猀猀椀漀渀 漀昀 琀栀攀 搀爀攀猀猀 漀昀 圀攀猀琀攀爀渀 匀挀愀渀搀椀渀愀瘀椀愀 愀渀搀 琀栀攀 䐀愀渀攀氀愀眀Ⰰ 眀椀琀栀漀甀琀 琀栀攀 伀爀椀攀渀琀愀氀 椀渀昀氀甀攀渀挀攀猀 昀漀甀渀搀 椀渀 洀甀挀栀 漀昀 琀栀攀 䈀椀爀欀愀 最爀愀瘀攀 最漀漀搀猀⸀    ഊ
਀㈀⸀ 吀漀 攀砀愀洀椀渀攀 愀爀挀栀攀漀氀漀最椀挀愀氀 攀瘀椀搀攀渀挀攀 愀渀搀 愀挀愀搀攀洀椀挀 琀栀攀漀爀礀 椀渀 愀 瀀爀愀挀琀椀挀愀氀 挀漀渀琀攀砀琀Ⰰ 戀礀 洀愀欀椀渀最Ⰰ 氀椀瘀椀渀最 愀渀搀 眀漀爀欀椀渀最 椀渀 琀栀攀 最愀爀洀攀渀琀猀 椀渀 愀 瘀愀爀椀攀琀礀 漀昀 挀漀渀搀椀琀椀漀渀猀⸀ ഊ
਀䜀攀渀攀爀愀氀 爀攀挀漀渀猀琀爀甀挀琀椀漀渀 渀漀琀攀猀 ഊ----------------------------
਀吀栀攀 挀漀猀琀甀洀攀 眀愀猀 戀愀猀攀搀 愀氀洀漀猀琀 攀渀琀椀爀攀氀礀 漀渀 愀爀挀栀愀攀漀氀漀最椀挀愀氀 昀椀渀搀猀 昀爀漀洀 䐀攀渀洀愀爀欀Ⰰ 眀椀琀栀 猀漀洀攀 攀氀攀洀攀渀琀猀 愀渀搀 挀漀爀爀漀戀漀爀愀琀椀渀最 攀瘀椀搀攀渀挀攀 昀爀漀洀 甀爀戀愀渀 挀攀渀琀爀攀猀 椀渀 匀眀攀搀攀渀 ⠀䈀椀爀欀愀⤀ 愀渀搀 䐀愀渀椀猀栀 䔀渀最氀愀渀搀 ⠀䨀漀爀瘀椀欀⤀⸀ 圀漀漀氀 愀渀搀 氀椀渀攀渀 昀愀戀爀椀挀猀 眀攀爀攀 猀攀氀攀挀琀攀搀 琀漀 洀愀琀挀栀 琀栀攀 愀爀挀栀愀攀漀氀漀最椀挀愀氀 昀椀渀搀猀 愀猀 挀氀漀猀攀氀礀 愀猀 瀀漀猀猀椀戀氀攀Ⰰ 椀渀 搀漀挀甀洀攀渀琀愀戀氀攀 挀漀氀漀甀爀猀 搀攀爀椀瘀攀搀 昀爀漀洀 愀瘀愀椀氀愀戀氀攀 搀礀攀猀琀甀昀昀猀⸀ 䴀攀琀愀氀 椀琀攀洀猀 猀甀挀栀 愀猀 琀栀攀 瀀攀渀搀愀渀琀 愀渀搀 最愀爀琀攀爀 栀漀漀欀猀 眀攀爀攀 洀愀搀攀 戀礀 挀椀爀攀 瀀攀爀搀甀攀 挀愀猀琀椀渀最 ⠀昀爀漀洀 眀愀砀 洀漀搀攀氀猀⤀⸀ 圀椀琀栀 琀栀攀 攀砀挀攀瀀琀椀漀渀 漀昀 琀栀攀 猀栀椀爀琀Ⰰ 猀攀愀洀猀 眀攀爀攀 最攀渀攀爀愀氀氀礀 猀攀眀渀 戀礀 洀愀挀栀椀渀攀 椀渀 琀栀攀 椀渀琀攀爀攀猀琀猀 漀昀 渀漀琀 最漀椀渀最 洀愀搀⸀ 䄀氀氀 最愀爀洀攀渀琀猀 眀攀爀攀 昀椀渀椀猀栀攀搀 戀礀 栀愀渀搀⸀ ഊ
਀匀栀椀爀琀 ⠀匀欀礀爀琀愀Ⰰ 匀欀樀漀爀琀攀⤀ഊ-----------------------
਀䐀甀爀椀渀最 琀栀攀 攀砀挀愀瘀愀琀椀漀渀猀 挀愀爀爀椀攀搀 漀甀琀 椀渀 ㄀㤀㠀㐀⼀㠀㔀 漀昀 琀栀攀 琀漀眀渀 漀昀 嘀椀戀漀爀最 匀渀搀攀爀猀Ⰰ 䐀攀渀洀愀爀欀Ⰰ 愀 氀甀洀瀀 漀昀 挀氀漀琀栀 眀愀猀 昀漀甀渀搀 椀渀 愀 瀀漀猀琀 栀漀氀攀Ⰰ 搀愀琀攀搀 琀漀 琀栀攀 攀愀爀氀礀 ㄀㄀琀栀 挀攀渀琀甀爀礀⸀ 䌀愀爀攀昀甀氀 挀漀渀猀攀爀瘀愀琀椀漀渀 爀攀瘀攀愀氀攀搀 琀栀愀琀 琀栀椀猀 眀愀猀 愀 氀椀渀攀渀 猀栀椀爀琀Ⰰ 氀愀爀最攀氀礀 椀渀琀愀挀琀 搀甀攀 琀漀 昀愀瘀漀甀爀愀戀氀攀 ⠀愀渀愀攀爀漀戀椀挀⤀ 挀漀渀搀椀琀椀漀渀猀 椀渀 琀栀攀 猀漀椀氀㬀 琀漀 搀愀琀攀Ⰰ 琀栀椀猀 最愀爀洀攀渀琀 爀攀洀愀椀渀猀 琀栀攀 漀渀氀礀 猀栀椀爀琀 昀爀漀洀 琀栀攀 嘀椀欀椀渀最 瀀攀爀椀漀搀 昀漀甀渀搀 椀渀 匀挀愀渀搀椀渀愀瘀椀愀 漀爀 䔀甀爀漀瀀攀 椀渀 猀甀挀栀 最漀漀搀 挀漀渀搀椀琀椀漀渀⸀ 吀栀攀 猀栀椀爀琀 眀愀猀 眀漀瘀攀渀 漀昀 愀 猀椀渀最氀攀 瀀氀礀 娀ⴀ猀瀀甀渀 氀椀渀攀渀 琀栀爀攀愀搀 椀渀 愀 琀愀戀戀礀 眀攀愀瘀攀⸀ 吀栀攀 猀栀椀爀琀 眀愀猀 渀漀琀 漀爀椀最椀渀愀氀氀礀 搀礀攀搀Ⰰ 戀甀琀 栀愀猀 戀攀攀渀 猀琀愀椀渀攀搀 最爀攀礀ⴀ戀氀愀挀欀 戀礀 氀漀渀最 椀洀洀攀爀猀椀漀渀 椀渀 挀栀愀爀挀漀愀氀 愀渀搀 琀愀渀渀椀渀ⴀ爀椀挀栀 猀漀椀氀⸀ 吀栀攀 猀栀椀爀琀 搀椀猀瀀氀愀礀猀 猀攀瘀攀爀愀氀 甀渀甀猀甀愀氀 昀攀愀琀甀爀攀猀Ⰰ 椀渀挀氀甀搀椀渀最 愀 焀甀椀氀琀攀搀  栀愀氀昀ⴀ氀椀渀椀渀最Ⰰ 愀 瘀愀爀椀攀琀礀 漀昀 挀漀洀瀀氀攀砀 猀攀愀洀猀 愀渀搀 愀 搀漀甀戀氀攀ⴀ氀愀礀攀爀攀搀 渀攀挀欀 漀瀀攀渀椀渀最Ⰰ 洀漀猀琀 氀椀欀攀氀礀 椀渀猀瀀椀爀攀搀 戀礀 䈀礀稀愀渀琀椀渀攀 愀渀搀 倀攀爀猀椀愀渀 挀氀漀琀栀椀渀最⸀  ഊ
਀刀攀挀漀渀猀琀爀甀挀琀椀漀渀㨀 䄀 琀愀戀戀礀 眀攀愀瘀攀 㔀　─ 眀漀漀氀Ⰰ 㔀　─ 氀椀渀攀渀 戀氀攀渀搀 搀礀攀搀 琀漀 愀 瀀愀氀攀 最爀攀攀渀 猀栀愀搀攀 猀椀洀甀氀愀琀椀渀最 愀瘀愀椀氀愀戀氀攀 瀀氀愀渀琀 搀礀攀猀 眀愀猀 甀猀攀搀 椀渀 琀栀攀 爀攀挀漀渀猀琀爀甀挀琀椀漀渀⸀ 吀栀椀猀 挀栀漀椀挀攀 瀀爀漀瘀攀搀 琀漀 戀攀 愀 洀椀砀攀搀 戀氀攀猀猀椀渀最㬀 愀氀琀栀漀甀最栀 愀渀 愀甀琀栀攀渀琀椀挀 愀渀搀 氀甀砀甀爀椀漀甀猀 昀愀戀爀椀挀Ⰰ 椀琀✀猀 琀攀渀搀攀渀挀礀 琀漀 挀爀甀猀栀 椀昀 氀漀漀欀攀搀 愀琀 眀爀漀渀最 洀愀搀攀 椀琀 猀漀洀攀眀栀愀琀 昀爀甀猀琀爀愀琀椀渀最 琀漀 眀漀爀欀 眀椀琀栀⸀ 䐀甀攀 琀漀 琀栀攀 挀漀洀瀀氀攀砀 渀愀琀甀爀攀 漀昀 琀栀攀 猀攀愀洀猀Ⰰ 琀栀攀 猀栀椀爀琀 洀甀猀琀 戀攀 猀攀眀渀 攀渀琀椀爀攀氀礀 戀礀 栀愀渀搀㬀 洀愀挀栀椀渀攀 猀攀眀椀渀最 挀愀渀渀漀琀 爀攀挀漀渀猀琀爀甀挀琀 琀栀攀 琀礀瀀攀猀 漀爀 戀攀栀愀瘀椀漀甀爀 漀昀 琀栀攀 漀爀椀最椀渀愀氀 猀攀愀洀猀⸀ 吀栀攀 攀砀琀愀渀琀 最愀爀洀攀渀琀 昀攀愀琀甀爀攀搀 搀攀挀漀爀愀琀椀瘀攀 焀甀椀氀琀椀渀最 猀琀椀琀挀栀攀猀 昀椀砀椀渀最 琀栀攀 漀甀琀攀爀 琀漀 琀栀攀 氀椀渀椀渀最 愀渀搀 昀漀爀洀椀渀最 愀 瀀愀琀琀攀爀渀 漀昀 愀 猀焀甀愀爀攀 愀渀搀 昀漀甀爀 搀椀愀最漀渀愀氀 氀椀渀攀猀 漀渀 琀栀攀 昀爀漀渀琀 愀渀搀 戀愀挀欀 戀漀搀礀㬀 椀渀 洀礀 爀攀挀漀渀猀琀爀甀挀琀椀漀渀 䤀 搀攀挀椀搀攀搀 琀漀 漀洀椀琀 琀栀椀猀 焀甀椀氀琀椀渀最 椀渀 琀栀攀 椀渀琀攀爀攀猀琀猀 漀昀 攀挀漀渀漀洀礀 愀渀搀 愀攀猀琀栀攀琀椀挀猀⸀ 吀栀攀 甀渀甀猀甀愀氀 愀渀搀 挀漀洀瀀氀攀砀 猀攀愀洀 挀漀渀猀琀爀甀挀琀椀漀渀 椀猀 愀琀 昀椀爀猀琀 搀愀甀渀琀椀渀最Ⰰ 戀甀琀 椀猀 渀漀琀 搀椀昀昀椀挀甀氀琀Ⰰ 愀渀搀 猀愀瘀攀猀 愀 最爀攀愀琀 搀攀愀氀 漀昀 琀椀洀攀 愀渀搀 攀昀昀漀爀琀 戀礀 攀渀挀氀漀猀椀渀最 愀氀氀 爀愀眀 攀搀最攀猀 愀渀搀 攀氀椀洀椀渀愀琀椀渀最 戀甀氀欀礀 猀攀愀洀猀 眀椀琀栀 洀椀渀椀洀愀氀 攀昀昀漀爀琀 愀渀搀 愀 猀甀爀瀀爀椀猀椀渀最 攀氀攀最愀渀挀攀 漀昀 挀漀渀猀琀爀甀挀琀椀漀渀⸀ 吀栀攀 漀爀椀最椀渀愀氀 氀攀渀最琀栀 漀昀 琀栀攀 猀氀攀攀瘀攀猀 椀猀 甀渀欀渀漀眀渀㬀 栀攀爀攀 琀栀攀礀 愀爀攀 爀攀挀漀渀猀琀爀甀挀琀攀搀 琀漀 眀爀椀猀琀ⴀ氀攀渀最琀栀⸀ ഊ
਀吀爀漀甀猀攀爀猀ഊ--------
਀䘀甀氀氀 戀爀攀攀挀栀攀猀 最愀琀栀攀爀攀搀 愀琀 琀栀攀 欀渀攀攀 眀攀爀攀 愀 眀椀搀攀猀瀀爀攀愀搀 昀愀猀栀椀漀渀 椀渀 匀挀愀渀搀椀渀愀瘀椀愀 愀渀搀 刀甀猀猀椀愀Ⰰ 戀攀椀渀最 搀漀挀甀洀攀渀琀攀搀 戀礀 琀栀攀 䄀爀愀戀 琀爀愀瘀攀氀氀攀爀  椀戀渀 刀甀猀琀愀栀 挀㤀㔀　㨀 ∀⸀⸀⸀昀甀氀氀 琀爀漀甀猀攀爀猀 漀昀 漀渀攀 栀甀渀搀爀攀搀 攀氀氀猀 漀昀 昀愀戀爀椀挀 愀 瀀愀椀爀Ⰰ 愀渀搀 眀栀攀渀 琀栀攀礀 瀀甀琀 琀栀攀洀 漀渀Ⰰ 琀栀攀礀 爀漀氀氀 琀栀攀洀 甀瀀 琀漀 琀栀攀 欀渀攀攀猀 愀渀搀 昀愀猀琀攀渀 琀栀攀洀 琀栀攀爀攀⸀∀ 䘀爀愀最洀攀渀琀猀 漀昀 愀 瀀愀椀爀 猀甀挀栀 琀爀漀甀猀攀爀猀 眀攀爀攀 爀攀挀漀瘀攀爀攀搀 昀爀漀洀 䠀攀搀攀戀礀 栀愀爀戀漀甀爀Ⰰ 愀渀搀 搀愀琀攀 琀漀 琀栀攀 ㄀　琀栀 挀攀渀琀甀爀礀⸀ 吀栀攀 爀攀洀愀椀渀猀 挀漀渀猀椀猀琀 漀昀 愀 眀攀搀最攀ⴀ猀栀愀瀀攀搀 昀爀漀渀琀 瀀愀渀攀氀 漀昀 眀漀漀氀攀渀 ✀爀攀瀀✀ 昀愀戀爀椀挀Ⰰ 愀渀搀 瀀愀爀琀猀 漀昀 琀栀攀 猀攀愀琀 愀渀搀 氀攀最猀Ⰰ 眀栀椀挀栀 眀攀爀攀 洀愀搀攀 漀昀 搀漀甀戀氀攀 氀愀礀攀爀猀 漀昀 挀爀攀瀀攀ⴀ眀攀椀最栀琀 眀漀漀氀 琀愀戀戀礀⸀  吀栀攀 昀爀漀渀琀 瀀愀渀攀氀猀 漀昀 琀栀攀 琀爀漀甀猀攀爀猀 眀攀爀攀 搀礀攀搀 爀攀搀Ⰰ 琀栀攀 猀攀愀琀 瀀愀渀攀氀 礀攀氀氀漀眀ⴀ最爀攀攀渀⸀ ഊ
਀刀攀挀漀渀猀琀爀甀挀琀椀漀渀㨀 吀栀攀 爀攀挀漀渀猀琀爀甀挀琀攀搀 瀀愀琀琀攀爀渀 最椀瘀攀渀 椀渀 䠀愀最最 椀猀 氀愀爀最攀氀礀 挀漀渀樀攀挀琀甀爀愀氀Ⰰ 愀渀搀 戀愀猀攀搀 漀渀 琀栀攀 猀攀愀洀 瀀氀愀挀攀洀攀渀琀 漀昀 琀栀攀 昀攀眀 猀甀爀瘀椀瘀椀渀最 昀爀愀最洀攀渀琀猀Ⰰ 眀栀椀挀栀 攀猀琀愀戀氀椀猀栀攀猀 琀栀攀 眀椀搀琀栀 愀渀搀 愀瀀瀀爀漀砀椀洀愀琀攀 猀栀愀瀀攀 漀昀 琀栀攀 昀爀漀渀琀 瀀愀渀攀氀Ⰰ 愀渀搀 琀栀攀 猀攀愀洀 瀀氀愀挀攀洀攀渀琀 樀漀椀渀椀渀最 琀栀攀 氀攀最猀 琀漀 琀栀攀 最甀猀猀攀琀 瀀愀渀攀氀猀⸀ 䤀琀 眀愀猀 琀栀攀 猀椀洀椀氀愀爀椀琀礀 漀昀 琀栀攀猀攀 猀攀愀洀猀 琀漀 琀栀攀 㜀琀栀 挀攀渀琀甀爀礀 吀栀漀爀猀戀樀攀爀最 琀爀漀甀猀攀爀猀 眀栀椀挀栀 攀渀愀戀氀攀搀 琀栀攀 䠀攀搀攀戀礀 昀爀愀最洀攀渀琀猀 琀漀 戀攀 椀搀攀渀琀椀昀椀攀搀 愀猀 琀爀漀甀猀攀爀猀⸀ 䤀渀 琀栀椀猀 椀渀猀琀愀渀挀攀 氀椀渀攀渀 搀礀攀搀 琀漀 愀 猀甀椀琀愀戀氀攀 挀漀氀漀甀爀  眀愀猀 甀猀攀搀 昀漀爀 攀挀漀渀漀洀礀 愀渀搀 琀漀 愀氀氀漀眀 昀漀爀 猀甀洀洀攀爀 眀攀愀爀㬀 愀渀 攀砀愀洀瀀氀攀 漀昀 氀椀渀攀渀 琀爀漀甀猀攀爀猀 愀氀猀漀 猀甀爀瘀椀瘀攀猀 昀爀漀洀 䈀椀爀欀愀 攀砀挀愀瘀愀琀椀漀渀猀⸀ 䤀琀 椀猀 氀椀欀攀氀礀 琀栀攀 挀漀渀琀爀愀猀琀椀渀最 眀漀漀氀 猀攀愀琀 瀀愀渀攀氀 眀愀猀 愀 猀甀戀猀琀椀琀甀琀椀漀渀 搀甀攀 琀漀 椀渀猀甀昀昀椀挀椀攀渀琀 洀愀琀挀栀椀渀最 昀愀戀爀椀挀 愀琀 琀栀攀 琀椀洀攀 琀栀攀 琀爀漀甀猀攀爀猀 眀攀爀攀 洀愀搀攀⸀ 吀栀攀 愀爀爀愀渀最攀洀攀渀琀 漀昀 琀栀攀 猀攀愀洀猀 愀琀 琀栀攀 爀攀愀爀 椀猀 猀椀洀椀氀愀爀 琀漀 琀栀攀 吀栀漀爀猀戀樀攀爀最 琀爀漀甀猀攀爀猀Ⰰ 琀栀攀 漀昀昀ⴀ挀攀渀琀爀攀 瀀氀愀挀攀洀攀渀琀 搀攀挀爀攀愀猀椀渀最 猀琀爀攀猀猀 漀渀 琀栀攀 猀攀愀洀猀 愀渀搀 愀氀氀漀眀椀渀最 昀漀爀 洀漀爀攀 搀甀爀愀戀氀攀 眀攀愀爀⸀ 䤀 栀愀瘀攀 挀栀漀猀攀渀 琀漀 椀渀挀氀甀搀攀 琀栀椀猀 昀攀愀琀甀爀攀 椀渀 琀栀椀猀 爀攀挀漀渀猀琀爀甀挀琀椀漀渀 椀渀 漀爀搀攀爀 琀漀 洀漀爀攀 挀氀漀猀攀氀礀 攀洀甀氀愀琀攀 琀栀攀 漀爀椀最椀渀愀氀 最愀爀洀攀渀琀Ⰰ 愀渀搀 琀漀 搀椀猀瀀氀愀礀 琀栀椀猀 瀀爀愀挀琀椀挀愀氀 愀猀瀀攀挀琀 漀昀 挀漀渀猀琀爀甀挀琀椀漀渀㬀 愀 氀椀最栀琀眀攀椀最栀琀 最爀攀攀渀 眀漀漀氀 眀愀猀 甀猀攀搀⸀ 吀栀攀 琀爀漀甀猀攀爀猀 愀爀攀 瘀攀爀礀 昀甀氀氀 愀渀搀 洀愀礀 戀攀 挀甀琀 搀漀眀渀 愀琀 愀 氀愀琀攀爀 搀愀琀攀⸀ഊ
਀䄀挀挀攀猀猀漀爀椀攀猀ഊ-----------
਀䬀渀椀昀攀 愀渀搀 猀挀愀戀戀愀爀搀㨀 䄀渀 攀砀愀洀瀀氀攀 漀昀 愀 搀漀洀攀猀琀椀挀 甀琀椀氀椀琀礀 欀渀椀昀攀Ⰰ 漀昀 愀 琀礀瀀攀 挀漀洀洀漀渀 琀栀爀漀甀最栀漀甀琀 琀栀攀 㠀琀栀ⴀ㄀㄀琀栀 挀攀渀琀甀爀椀攀猀⸀ 吀栀攀 猀栀攀愀琀栀 椀猀 漀昀 琀漀漀氀攀搀 瘀攀最攀琀愀戀氀攀 琀愀渀渀攀搀 氀攀愀琀栀攀爀 猀攀琀 眀椀琀栀 愀 戀椀渀搀椀渀最 猀琀爀椀瀀 漀昀 挀漀瀀瀀攀爀Ⰰ 眀漀爀欀攀搀 眀椀琀栀 愀 搀攀挀漀爀愀琀椀瘀攀 氀攀愀昀 搀攀猀椀最渀⸀ ⠀䬀渀椀昀攀 愀渀搀 猀挀愀戀戀愀爀搀 昀愀戀爀椀挀愀琀攀搀 戀礀 䄀洀愀渀搀愀 䈀愀欀攀爀⸀⤀ ഊ
਀倀甀爀猀攀㨀 䈀愀猀攀搀 漀渀 愀 ㄀　琀栀 挀攀渀琀甀爀礀 攀砀愀洀瀀氀攀 昀爀漀洀 䈀椀爀欀愀 最爀愀瘀攀 䈀樀㜀㌀㄀⸀ 吀栀攀 戀愀最 椀猀 漀昀 眀漀漀氀 ✀爀攀瀀✀ 眀攀愀瘀攀Ⰰ 琀栀攀 氀椀搀 椀猀 漀昀 琀眀漀 氀攀愀琀栀攀爀 氀愀礀攀爀猀 眀椀琀栀 愀渀 攀搀最攀 戀椀渀搀椀渀最 漀昀 氀攀愀琀栀攀爀⸀ 伀昀 琀栀攀 琀眀漀 猀琀爀愀瀀猀Ⰰ 漀渀攀 椀猀 昀甀渀挀琀椀漀渀愀氀 ⠀攀渀最愀最椀渀最 愀 戀甀挀欀氀攀⤀Ⰰ 琀栀攀 漀琀栀攀爀 搀攀挀漀爀愀琀椀瘀攀Ⰰ 眀椀琀栀 挀愀猀琀 戀爀漀渀稀攀 愀渀椀洀愀氀 栀攀愀搀 洀漀甀渀琀猀⸀ 吀栀攀 戀愀最 眀愀猀 搀攀挀漀爀愀琀攀搀 眀椀琀栀 猀椀氀欀 愀瀀瀀氀椀焀甀 愀渀搀 愀 猀椀氀瘀攀爀 ✀瀀愀猀猀攀洀攀渀琀✀ ⠀眀漀瘀攀渀 眀椀爀攀 戀愀渀搀⤀⸀ഊ
਀刀攀挀漀渀猀琀爀甀挀琀椀漀渀㨀 䠀攀爀爀椀渀最戀漀渀攀 眀漀瘀攀渀 眀漀漀氀 眀愀猀 猀甀戀猀琀椀琀甀琀攀搀 昀漀爀 琀栀攀 戀愀最 昀漀爀 琀栀攀 猀愀欀攀 漀昀 攀挀漀渀漀洀礀⸀ 吀栀攀 氀椀搀 眀愀猀 洀愀搀攀 昀爀漀洀 琀眀漀 氀愀礀攀爀猀 漀昀 猀漀昀琀 戀氀甀攀ⴀ搀礀攀搀 氀攀愀琀栀攀爀⸀ 吀栀攀 琀眀漀 猀琀爀愀瀀猀 愀爀攀 猀琀椀琀挀栀攀搀 琀漀 琀栀攀 戀漀琀琀漀洀 氀愀礀攀爀Ⰰ 愀渀搀 昀攀搀 琀栀爀漀甀最栀 猀氀椀琀猀 椀渀 琀栀攀 琀漀瀀 氀愀礀攀爀 漀昀 琀栀攀 氀椀搀Ⰰ 眀栀椀挀栀 戀漀琀栀 挀漀渀挀攀愀氀猀 愀渀搀 瀀爀漀琀攀挀琀猀 琀栀攀 猀琀椀琀挀栀椀渀最⸀ 䌀愀猀琀 戀爀漀渀稀攀 愀渀椀洀愀氀 栀攀愀搀 洀漀甀渀琀猀 昀爀漀洀 䘀爀樀攀氀 眀攀爀攀 昀椀砀攀搀 琀漀 琀栀攀 搀攀挀漀爀愀琀椀瘀攀 猀琀爀愀瀀 漀昀 琀栀攀 瀀甀爀猀攀⸀ 䄀氀琀栀漀甀最栀 琀栀攀 漀爀椀最椀渀愀氀 瀀甀爀猀攀 昀攀愀琀甀爀攀猀 愀 琀漀漀氀攀搀 氀攀愀琀栀攀爀 攀搀最攀 戀椀渀搀椀渀最 漀渀 琀栀攀 氀椀搀Ⰰ 䤀 栀愀瘀攀 挀栀漀猀攀渀 椀渀猀琀攀愀搀 琀漀 琀爀椀洀 琀栀攀 攀搀最攀 漀昀 琀栀攀 氀椀搀 眀椀琀栀 愀 瀀愀猀猀攀洀攀渀琀 眀漀瘀攀渀 漀昀 昀椀渀攀 戀爀漀渀稀攀 眀椀爀攀⸀ 䤀 愀氀猀漀 搀攀挀椀搀攀搀 琀漀 漀洀椀琀 琀栀攀 猀椀氀欀 愀瀀瀀氀椀焀甀 搀攀挀漀爀愀琀椀漀渀Ⰰ 愀氀琀栀漀甀最栀 琀栀椀猀 洀愀礀 戀攀 愀搀搀攀搀 愀琀 愀 氀愀琀攀爀 搀愀琀攀⸀ഊ
਀䨀攀眀攀氀氀攀爀礀㨀 吀栀攀 爀椀渀最 椀猀 漀昀 琀栀攀 ∀戀爀愀椀搀攀搀 眀椀爀攀∀ 琀礀瀀攀 昀漀甀渀搀 椀渀 戀漀琀栀 琀爀攀愀猀甀爀攀 栀漀愀爀搀猀 愀渀搀 最爀愀瘀攀 昀椀渀搀猀 昀爀漀洀 䤀爀攀氀愀渀搀 琀漀 琀栀攀 䈀愀氀琀椀挀 挀漀甀渀琀爀椀攀猀Ⰰ 甀猀甀愀氀氀礀 椀渀 猀椀氀瘀攀爀 漀爀 最漀氀搀 愀渀搀 猀椀稀攀搀 琀漀 昀椀琀 洀攀渀 愀渀搀 眀漀洀攀渀⸀ 吀栀攀 挀爀漀猀猀 椀猀 愀 挀愀猀琀 戀爀漀渀稀攀 爀攀瀀氀椀挀愀 漀昀 愀 ㄀　琀栀 挀攀渀琀甀爀礀 攀砀愀洀瀀氀攀 甀渀攀愀爀琀栀攀搀 愀琀 䈀椀爀欀愀⸀ 䔀氀愀戀漀爀愀琀攀 最氀愀猀猀 戀攀愀搀猀 愀爀攀 洀漀爀攀 挀漀洀洀漀渀 琀漀 昀攀洀愀氀攀 樀攀眀攀氀氀攀爀礀Ⰰ 愀氀琀栀漀甀最栀 猀攀瘀攀爀愀氀 洀攀渀✀猀 最爀愀瘀攀猀 栀愀瘀攀 戀攀攀渀 昀漀甀渀搀 琀漀 挀漀渀琀愀椀渀 戀攀琀眀攀攀渀 琀眀漀 愀渀搀 昀椀瘀攀 戀攀愀搀猀 漀渀 愀 挀漀爀搀Ⰰ 漀昀琀攀渀 猀琀爀甀渀最 漀渀 攀椀琀栀攀爀 猀椀搀攀 漀昀 愀渀 愀洀甀氀攀琀 猀甀挀栀 愀猀 愀 吀栀漀爀✀猀 栀愀洀洀攀爀ⴀ 琀栀攀 挀爀漀猀猀 眀愀猀 挀栀漀猀攀渀 椀渀猀琀攀愀搀 琀漀 爀攀昀氀攀挀琀 琀栀攀 眀椀搀攀猀瀀爀攀愀搀 愀搀漀瀀琀椀漀渀 漀昀 䌀栀爀椀猀琀椀愀渀椀琀礀 椀渀 匀挀愀渀搀椀渀愀瘀椀愀 搀甀爀椀渀最 琀栀攀 ㄀　琀栀 愀渀搀 攀愀爀氀礀 ㄀㄀琀栀 挀攀渀琀甀爀椀攀猀⸀ 吀栀攀 挀爀漀猀猀 愀渀搀 戀攀愀搀猀 愀爀攀 猀琀爀甀渀最 漀渀 愀 戀氀甀攀ⴀ搀礀攀搀 猀瀀甀渀 眀漀漀氀 挀漀爀搀⸀ ⠀䌀爀漀猀猀 瀀攀渀搀愀渀琀 昀愀戀爀椀挀愀琀攀搀 戀礀 刀愀礀洀漀渀搀 䴀漀猀攀氀礀⸀⤀ഊ
਀吀甀渀椀挀 ⠀䬀礀爀琀椀氀氀Ⰰ 䬀樀漀爀琀礀氀⤀ഊ------------------------
਀䈀愀猀攀搀 漀渀 猀甀爀瘀椀瘀椀渀最 瀀漀爀琀椀漀渀猀 漀昀 愀 最愀爀洀攀渀琀 洀愀搀攀 漀昀 㐀ⴀ猀栀愀昀琀攀搀 眀漀漀氀攀渀 琀眀椀氀氀 昀爀漀洀 刀渀戀樀攀爀最 䴀漀猀攀Ⰰ 䐀攀渀洀愀爀欀Ⰰ 愀 戀漀最 昀椀渀搀 攀砀挀愀瘀愀琀攀搀 椀渀 ㄀㠀㤀㄀ ⠀伀爀椀最椀渀愀氀氀礀 琀栀漀甀最栀琀 琀漀 搀愀琀攀 琀漀 挀㄀㈀　　Ⰰ 愀氀琀栀漀甀最栀 挀愀爀戀漀渀ⴀ㄀㐀 搀愀琀椀渀最 挀愀爀爀椀攀搀 漀甀琀 戀礀 琀栀攀 䴀甀猀攀甀洀 漀昀 䐀攀渀洀愀爀欀 椀渀 ㄀㤀㤀㠀 栀愀猀 瀀氀愀挀攀搀 琀栀攀 搀愀琀攀 愀爀漀甀渀搀 ㄀㈀㠀　⤀⸀ 䄀氀琀栀漀甀最栀 琀栀椀猀 最愀爀洀攀渀琀 搀愀琀攀猀 琀漀 琀栀攀 氀愀琀攀 ㄀㌀琀栀 挀攀渀琀甀爀礀Ⰰ 椀琀 椀猀 愀氀洀漀猀琀 椀搀攀渀琀椀挀愀氀 椀渀 挀甀琀 愀渀搀 挀漀渀猀琀爀甀挀琀椀漀渀 琀漀 渀甀洀攀爀漀甀猀 ㄀　琀栀 挀攀渀琀甀爀礀 昀椀渀搀猀 昀爀漀洀 䠀攀搀攀戀礀 栀愀爀戀漀甀爀⸀ 吀栀攀猀攀 最愀爀洀攀渀琀猀 挀漀洀洀漀渀氀礀 昀攀愀琀甀爀攀 琀眀漀ⴀ瀀椀攀挀攀 戀漀搀礀 挀漀渀猀琀爀甀挀琀椀漀渀 眀椀琀栀 昀椀琀琀攀搀 猀栀漀甀氀搀攀爀 猀攀愀洀猀Ⰰ 昀椀琀琀攀搀 猀氀攀攀瘀攀猀 愀渀搀 爀漀甀渀搀攀搀 愀爀洀栀漀氀攀猀Ⰰ 愀渀搀 洀甀氀琀椀瀀氀攀 猀椀搀攀 愀渀搀 昀爀漀渀琀 最漀爀攀猀㬀 愀 猀甀爀瀀爀椀猀椀渀最 搀攀最爀攀攀 漀昀 琀愀椀氀漀爀椀渀最 猀漀瀀栀椀猀琀椀挀愀琀椀漀渀 昀漀爀 琀栀攀 琀椀洀攀⸀ ഊ
਀刀攀挀漀渀猀琀爀甀挀琀椀漀渀㨀 䄀 洀攀搀椀甀洀 眀攀椀最栀琀 眀漀漀氀攀渀 琀眀椀氀氀 眀愀猀 挀栀漀猀攀渀 椀渀 愀 猀甀椀琀愀戀氀攀 猀栀愀搀攀⸀ 䈀氀甀攀 搀礀攀猀 栀愀瘀攀 戀攀攀渀 攀砀琀爀愀挀琀攀搀 昀爀漀洀 洀愀渀礀 䐀愀渀椀猀栀 愀渀搀 䄀渀最氀漀ⴀ匀挀愀渀搀椀渀愀瘀椀愀渀 琀攀砀琀椀氀攀 猀愀洀瀀氀攀猀Ⰰ 瀀爀攀猀甀洀愀戀氀礀 昀爀漀洀 眀漀愀搀Ⰰ 愀氀琀栀漀甀最栀 椀渀搀椀最漀 眀愀猀 愀氀猀漀 欀渀漀眀渀 昀爀漀洀 椀洀瀀漀爀琀攀搀 猀椀氀欀猀⸀ 䌀漀渀琀攀洀瀀漀爀愀爀礀 椀挀漀渀椀挀 攀瘀椀搀攀渀挀攀 猀栀漀眀猀 琀栀愀琀 匀挀愀渀搀椀渀愀瘀椀愀渀 漀瘀攀爀最愀爀洀攀渀琀猀 眀攀爀攀 眀漀爀渀 昀爀漀洀 洀椀搀ⴀ琀栀椀最栀 琀漀 欀渀攀攀 氀攀渀最琀栀Ⰰ 愀氀琀栀漀甀最栀 漀琀栀攀爀 攀砀琀愀渀琀 最愀爀洀攀渀琀猀 昀爀漀洀 䐀攀渀洀愀爀欀 ⠀攀最 䴀漀猀攀氀愀渀搀 琀甀渀椀挀Ⰰ 挀㄀　㔀　⤀ 椀渀搀椀挀愀琀攀 琀栀愀琀 氀漀渀最攀爀 最愀爀洀攀渀琀猀 眀攀爀攀 愀氀猀漀 欀渀漀眀渀⸀ 䤀渀 琀栀椀猀 椀渀猀琀愀渀挀攀 䤀 栀愀瘀攀 戀攀攀渀 最甀椀搀攀搀 戀礀 琀栀攀 氀攀渀最琀栀 漀昀 琀栀攀 刀渀戀樀攀爀最 䴀漀猀攀 琀甀渀椀挀Ⰰ ㄀㈀　挀洀 椀渀 氀攀渀最琀栀⸀ 吀栀攀爀攀 椀猀 渀漀 愀爀挀栀攀漀氀漀最椀挀愀氀 攀瘀椀搀攀渀挀攀 昀漀爀 愀 戀甀琀琀漀渀 漀爀 琀椀攀 挀氀漀猀甀爀攀 愀琀 琀栀攀 琀栀爀漀愀琀㬀 椀琀 椀猀 瀀漀猀猀椀戀氀攀 琀栀愀琀 琀栀攀 琀甀渀椀挀 眀愀猀 瀀椀渀渀攀搀 戀礀 愀 戀爀漀漀挀栀Ⰰ 漀爀 氀攀昀琀 甀渀昀愀猀琀攀渀攀搀⸀ 倀爀愀挀琀椀挀愀氀 眀攀愀爀 栀愀猀 猀栀漀眀渀 琀栀愀琀 愀 昀愀猀琀攀渀椀渀最 椀猀 渀漀琀 爀攀焀甀椀爀攀搀⸀ 吀栀攀 最愀爀洀攀渀琀 栀愀猀 戀攀攀渀 氀攀昀琀 甀渀愀搀漀爀渀攀搀 琀漀 爀攀昀氀攀挀琀 戀漀琀栀 琀栀攀 攀砀琀愀渀琀 最愀爀洀攀渀琀 愀渀搀 琀栀攀 猀漀挀椀漀ⴀ攀挀漀渀漀洀椀挀 挀氀愀猀猀 漀昀 琀栀攀 爀攀挀漀渀猀琀爀甀挀琀攀搀 漀甀琀昀椀琀Ⰰ 愀氀琀栀漀甀最栀 琀愀戀氀攀琀 眀漀瘀攀渀 戀爀愀椀搀Ⰰ 猀椀氀欀 猀愀洀椀琀攀 漀爀 戀爀漀挀愀搀攀 猀琀爀椀瀀猀 愀渀搀 攀洀戀爀漀椀搀攀爀礀 愀爀攀 愀氀氀 愀瀀瀀爀漀瀀爀椀愀琀攀 愀猀 搀攀挀漀爀愀琀椀漀渀Ⰰ 愀渀搀 洀愀礀 戀攀 愀搀搀攀搀 愀琀 愀 氀愀琀攀爀 搀愀琀攀⸀ ഊ
਀䰀攀最ⴀ戀椀渀搀椀渀最猀 ⠀圀椀挀欀攀氀戀愀渀搀攀爀⤀ഊ---------------------------
਀䔀砀愀洀瀀氀攀猀 漀昀 眀漀漀氀攀渀 戀愀渀搀猀Ⰰ 甀猀甀愀氀氀礀 眀漀瘀攀渀 琀漀 愀 渀愀爀爀漀眀 氀漀漀洀ⴀ眀椀搀琀栀 㜀ⴀ㄀　挀洀 眀椀搀攀Ⰰ 愀爀攀 欀渀漀眀渀 昀爀漀洀 猀攀瘀攀爀愀氀 甀爀戀愀渀 猀椀琀攀猀Ⰰ 椀渀挀氀甀搀椀渀最 䠀攀搀攀戀礀 愀渀搀 夀漀爀欀⸀ 吀栀攀猀攀 愀爀攀 椀搀攀渀琀椀昀椀攀搀 愀猀 氀攀最 戀椀渀搀椀渀最猀Ⰰ 愀 昀愀猀栀椀漀渀 眀椀搀攀氀礀 爀攀瀀爀攀猀攀渀琀攀搀 椀渀 攀愀爀氀礀 洀攀搀椀攀瘀愀氀 愀爀琀⸀ 䴀漀猀琀 漀昀 琀栀攀 昀椀渀搀猀 愀爀攀 漀昀 栀攀爀爀椀渀最戀漀渀攀 琀眀椀氀氀Ⰰ 眀漀瘀攀渀 愀猀 眀栀漀氀攀 挀氀漀琀栀Ⰰ 愀渀搀 栀愀瘀攀 猀攀氀瘀攀搀最攀猀 漀渀 戀漀琀栀 猀椀搀攀猀⸀ 䠀漀漀欀攀搀 洀攀琀愀氀 琀愀最猀Ⰰ 漀爀 ∀最愀爀琀攀爀 栀漀漀欀猀∀Ⰰ 愀爀攀 挀漀洀洀漀渀氀礀 昀漀甀渀搀 椀渀 䔀渀最氀愀渀搀 愀渀搀 匀挀愀渀搀椀渀愀瘀椀愀㬀 瀀愀爀琀椀挀甀氀愀爀氀礀 攀氀愀戀漀爀愀琀攀 挀愀猀琀 攀砀愀洀瀀氀攀猀 愀爀攀 欀渀漀眀渀 昀爀漀洀 匀眀攀搀攀渀 愀渀搀 刀甀猀猀椀愀⸀ 䤀琀 椀猀 琀栀漀甀最栀琀 琀栀攀猀攀 昀甀渀挀琀椀漀渀攀搀 琀漀 昀愀猀琀攀渀 琀栀攀 氀攀最 戀椀渀搀椀渀最猀⸀ഊ
਀刀攀挀漀渀猀琀爀甀挀琀椀漀渀㨀 䄀 栀攀爀爀椀渀最戀漀渀攀 眀漀漀氀攀渀 琀眀椀氀氀 眀愀猀 挀栀漀猀攀渀 琀漀 攀洀甀氀愀琀攀 琀栀攀 洀漀猀琀 挀漀洀洀漀渀 眀攀愀瘀攀 漀昀 琀栀攀 氀攀最ⴀ戀椀渀搀椀渀最猀⸀ 䄀猀 挀氀漀琀栀 眀椀琀栀 猀甀挀栀 愀 渀愀爀爀漀眀 氀漀漀洀 眀椀搀琀栀 眀愀猀 渀漀琀 愀瘀愀椀氀愀戀氀攀Ⰰ 琀栀攀 ㌀洀 戀愀渀搀猀 栀愀搀 琀漀 戀攀 洀愀搀攀 戀礀 樀漀椀渀椀渀最 猀琀爀椀瀀猀 攀渀搀 琀漀 攀渀搀 眀椀琀栀 爀攀瘀攀爀猀椀戀氀攀 猀攀愀洀猀Ⰰ 愀猀 椀渀 琀栀攀 㜀琀栀 挀攀渀琀甀爀礀 戀漀最 戀甀爀椀愀氀 昀爀漀洀 䈀攀爀渀甀琀栀猀昀攀氀搀⸀ 吀栀攀 猀琀爀椀瀀猀 眀攀爀攀 昀椀渀椀猀栀攀搀 眀椀琀栀 戀甀琀琀漀渀栀漀氀攀 猀琀椀琀挀栀椀渀最⸀ 䄀氀琀栀漀甀最栀 漀渀氀礀 愀 昀攀眀 猀愀洀瀀氀攀猀 漀昀 琀栀攀猀攀 琀攀砀琀椀氀攀猀 栀愀瘀攀 戀攀攀渀 愀渀愀氀礀猀攀搀 昀漀爀 搀礀攀猀Ⰰ 氀椀挀栀攀渀 瀀甀爀瀀氀攀猀 愀渀搀 戀氀甀攀猀 瀀爀攀猀甀洀愀戀氀礀 昀爀漀洀 眀漀愀搀 猀攀攀洀 琀漀 戀攀 挀漀洀洀漀渀Ⰰ 眀椀琀栀 攀砀愀洀瀀氀攀猀 昀爀漀洀 䠀攀搀攀戀礀 戀攀椀渀最 挀漀氀漀甀爀攀搀  爀攀搀 漀爀 礀攀氀氀漀眀⸀ 䤀渀 猀漀洀攀 攀砀愀洀瀀氀攀猀 搀椀昀昀攀爀攀渀琀 挀漀氀漀甀爀攀搀 眀愀爀瀀 愀渀搀 眀攀昀琀 眀攀爀攀 甀猀攀搀 琀漀 愀挀挀攀渀琀甀愀琀攀 琀栀攀 眀攀愀瘀攀 瀀愀琀琀攀爀渀㨀 椀渀 琀栀椀猀 挀愀猀攀 琀栀攀 挀栀漀猀攀渀 昀愀戀爀椀挀 猀椀洀甀氀愀琀攀猀 琀栀椀猀 琀攀挀栀渀椀焀甀攀 眀椀琀栀 甀渀搀礀攀搀 礀愀爀渀 愀渀搀 愀 瀀愀氀攀 最爀攀攀渀 搀攀爀椀瘀攀搀 昀爀漀洀 愀渀礀 渀甀洀戀攀爀 漀昀 氀漀挀愀氀氀礀 愀瘀愀椀氀愀戀氀攀 瀀氀愀渀琀 猀漀甀爀挀攀猀⸀ 吀栀攀 戀爀漀渀稀攀 栀漀漀欀猀 眀攀爀攀 戀愀猀攀搀 漀渀 愀 猀椀渀最氀攀 昀椀渀搀 昀爀漀洀 琀栀攀 䌀㤀ⴀ㄀　琀栀 猀攀琀琀氀攀洀攀渀琀 欀渀漀眀渀 愀猀 ✀刀礀甀爀椀欀 䜀漀爀漀搀椀猀挀栀攀✀ 渀攀愀爀 一漀瘀最漀爀漀搀Ⰰ 刀甀猀猀椀愀⸀ 吀栀椀猀 栀漀漀欀 眀愀猀 愀氀洀漀猀琀 椀搀攀渀琀椀挀愀氀 琀漀 琀栀攀 瀀愀椀爀 昀爀漀洀 䈀椀爀欀愀 最爀愀瘀攀 䈀樀㤀　㔀 洀攀渀琀椀漀渀攀搀 愀戀漀瘀攀⸀ 䠀漀漀欀猀 昀愀戀爀椀挀愀琀攀搀 戀礀 倀攀琀攀爀 䈀攀愀琀猀漀渀 ⠀䈀椀爀欀愀 吀爀愀搀攀爀猀 䰀琀搀⤀⸀ ഊ
਀匀栀漀攀猀ഊ-----
਀䈀愀猀攀搀 漀渀 攀砀愀洀瀀氀攀猀 攀砀挀愀瘀愀琀攀搀 昀爀漀洀 㔀ⴀ㜀 䌀漀瀀瀀攀爀最愀琀攀Ⰰ 䨀漀爀瘀椀欀 ⠀夀漀爀欀⤀Ⰰ 搀愀琀椀渀最 琀漀 琀栀攀 㤀琀栀 愀渀搀 ㄀　琀栀 挀攀渀琀甀爀椀攀猀⸀ഊ
਀刀攀挀漀渀猀琀爀甀挀琀椀漀渀㨀 嘀攀最攀琀愀戀氀攀 琀愀渀渀攀搀 挀愀琀琀氀攀 栀椀搀攀 眀愀猀 甀猀攀搀Ⰰ 琀栀攀 猀栀漀攀 戀攀椀渀最 挀漀渀猀琀爀甀挀琀攀搀 眀椀琀栀 琀栀攀 琀甀爀渀 猀栀漀攀 琀攀挀栀渀椀焀甀攀Ⰰ 挀漀洀洀漀渀 琀漀 攀砀琀愀渀琀 攀砀愀洀瀀氀攀猀 昀爀漀洀 愀氀氀 漀瘀攀爀 琀栀攀 一漀爀琀栀攀爀渀 眀漀爀氀搀⸀ 䄀氀氀 猀攀愀洀猀 眀攀爀攀 戀氀椀渀搀ⴀ猀琀椀琀挀栀攀搀 戀礀 栀愀渀搀 眀椀琀栀 眀愀砀攀搀 氀椀渀攀渀 琀栀爀攀愀搀Ⰰ 椀渀挀氀甀搀椀渀最 琀甀渀渀攀氀 猀琀椀琀挀栀攀搀 猀漀氀攀⸀ ⠀匀栀漀攀猀 昀愀戀爀椀挀愀琀攀搀 戀礀 倀攀琀攀爀 䈀攀愀琀猀漀渀 ⠀䈀椀爀欀愀 吀爀愀搀攀爀猀 䰀琀搀⤀⤀⸀ഊ
਀ഊA Reconstructed 11th Century Danish Costume (Part 2) - 
਀伀戀猀攀爀瘀愀琀椀漀渀猀 ☀ 匀瀀攀挀甀氀愀琀椀漀渀猀ഊby Master Giles de Laval
਀ഊLiving and working in these garments presented several challenges and problems, providing me with valuable practical insights. 
਀ഊShirt
਀ⴀⴀⴀⴀⴀഊThe reconstructed Viborg shirt was unfortunately not completed in time for the Rowany Festival, due to time constraints (a St Louis/Lewis style shirt was substituted for entry of the outfit into the Laurel's Prize Tourney). The incomplete shirt wore well at home, although I cut the sleeves slightly too tight for comfort. This can be fixed by inserting a larger underarm gusset. In my next attempt at this shirt I also intend to use a less easily crushed fabric. 
਀ഊTrousers
਀ⴀⴀⴀⴀⴀⴀⴀⴀഊThe trousers proved quite challenging, working off the deceptively simple (conjectural) pattern given in Hagg. The arrangement of the crotch and seat panels took care, and required hand finishing before the leg panels were attached. After initially cutting the leg panels too short, I tried again cutting them to mid-calf length. This worked better, but alas looked like hobbit pants. To counter this, and achieve the volume described by ibn Rustah, I cut the leg panels using the entire width of the linen (120cm). While this looked very good, it had a serious drawback that the weight of the garment kept pulling it off my hips, and pulling the legs out of the leg-bindings. I suspect that the original wool crepe of the trousers was lighter than my reconstruction, and fastened more securely at the knees. 
਀ഊTunic
਀ⴀⴀⴀⴀⴀഊThe tunic was very successful. Although too warm to wear during the day except for short periods, it was wonderful at night, and was warm enough on cold nights even without a cloak. With the addition of a woolen hood I was very warm indeed. The tunic fit well through the body and sleeves, and the skirt did not need to be kept out of the way at any time, even while doing chores such as fetching water and cooking.   
਀ഊAccessories
਀ⴀⴀⴀⴀⴀⴀⴀⴀⴀⴀⴀഊKnife and scabbard: worn at the front of the belt, the knife did not bounce around when walking, and proved very handy in many circumstances, from opening a carton of milk to cutting plastic tubing off a helmet. 
਀ഊPurse: Despite misgivings about the fragile seeming construction, the purse was highly successful. The purse was easy to open and refasten with one hand (even after a while in the tavern), and held all my goods and chattels without becoming awkward. The hanging strap meant the purse did bounce around a bit worn at the front or side of the belt, but in the course of wear it tended to migrate backward on the belt. Once I pushed it to the side and slightly behind, the purse sat firmly on my hip without bouncing or placing strain on the support strap, and was quite comfortable to wear in that position (perhaps the origin of the hip pocket?). I also received several favourable comments on the unusual and attractive styling of the pouch (especially after adding the plaques to the decorative strap), which was quite unlike many people's conceptions of early period gear.
਀ഊJewellery: The cross and strung beads were mostly ok, although I would perhaps string these on a shorter and stronger cord (probably lucet-woven) as the cord had a tendency to snag on things while working and become tangled.     
਀ഊLeg-bindings
਀ⴀⴀⴀⴀⴀⴀⴀⴀⴀⴀⴀⴀഊLike the trousers, these were less than successful. They had a tendency not to unwind, but to loosen and slip down the leg. I suspect the weight of the trousers (above) contributed to pushing them down below the calf. This could be corrected by making the bindings longer, so there is enough to wind and fasten immediately below the knee, so that the bindings grip the calf muscle and do not slip below it. This would seem to be borne out by the placement of the hooks at the knee level (rather than below) in the grave finds. I also suspect that the textiles used in the wickelbander may be of a looser weave than modern fabrics; this would allow more stretch and flexibility around the leg, much like a modern crepe bandage. Winding the wrappings took a few tries to get the hang of initially, making sure the hooks ended up on the outside. The tension placed on the bands while wrapping also placed a great deal of stress on the threads attaching the hooks to the bands. I imagine this problem would be reduced by using longer and more-loosely woven leg-bands.
਀ഊShoes
਀ⴀⴀⴀⴀⴀഊAs the conditions at Festival were extremely nasty and muddy, I decided not to risk the shoes (which represented a substantial investment of labour and money). However from previous experience running a feast wearing said shoes, I have no doubt they would have performed admirably. 
਀ഊGeneral
਀ⴀⴀⴀⴀⴀⴀⴀഊThe public reception was less than might have been hoped, as the intent of the project was perhaps not immediately apparent. Also, the plain and functional appearance of the garments did not compare well to the overseas visitors', which was laden with lots of beads and embroidery; flashy, but not necessarily accurate. However, as a whole, the project was successful in that the garments worked (more or less) as they should have, and provided valuable lessons where they didn't. 
਀ഊMajor References
਀ⴀⴀⴀⴀⴀⴀⴀⴀⴀⴀⴀⴀⴀⴀⴀⴀഊBeatson, Peter, "An Eleventh Century Shirt from Denmark" Varangian Voice 34, 1995.
਀ഊBeatson, Peter, "Rus Trousers", "Leg Bindings" & "Costume Accessories". Articles on-line at http://users.bigpond.net.au/quarfwa/miklagard/Costume/Rus/Trader/Rus Male Costume.htm, updated 2001, accessed 25/2/2002.
਀ഊBurnham, Dorothy, Cut My Cote, Royal Ontario Museum Toronto 1977.
਀ഊCarlson, I Marc, "Some Clothing of the Middle Ages-Ronbjerg Mose Tunic". Article on-line at http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/cloth/ronbjerg.html, updated February 2002, accessed 21/3/2002.
਀ഊFentz, Mytte (trans Maggie Mulvaney), "An 11th Century Shirt from Viborg Søndersø, Denmark", Archaeological Textiles in Northern Europe, Ed: Lise Bender 
਀ഊJørgensen and Elisabeth Munksgaard. Tindens Tand 1992. Article on-line at http://webnz.com/forest/Medieval/articles/Viborg/VIBORG.HTM, accessed 4/7/2001.
਀ഊGeijer, Agnes, "The Textile Finds From Birka" Cloth and Clothing in Medieval Europe, NB Hart & KG Ponting, ed, Heinemann London 1983.
਀ഊGraham-Campbell, James, The Viking World, Windward Frances Lincoln London 1989.
਀ഊHagg, Inga, Die Textilfunde aus dem Hafen von Haithabu, Karl Wachholz Verlag Neumunster 1984.
਀ഊHagg, Inga, "Die Tracht" Systemaische Analysen der Graberfunde, Greta Arwidsson, Birka: Untersuchungen und Studien II:2, Almquist & Wiksell Stockholm 1986.
਀ഊHald, Margarethe, Ancient Danish Textile From Bogs and Burials, National Museum of Denmark Copenhagen 1980.
਀ഊMargeson, Susan, Viking, Harper Collins Sydney 1994.
਀伀眀攀渀ⴀ䌀爀漀挀欀攀爀Ⰰ 䜀愀氀攀 刀Ⰰ 䐀爀攀猀猀 椀渀 䄀渀最氀漀ⴀ匀愀砀漀渀 䔀渀最氀愀渀搀Ⰰ 䴀愀渀挀栀攀猀琀攀爀 唀渀椀瘀攀爀猀椀琀礀 倀爀攀猀猀 ㄀㤀㠀㘀⸀ഊ
਀倀爀椀攀猀琀ⴀ䐀漀爀洀愀渀Ⰰ 䌀愀爀漀氀礀渀Ⰰ ∀䌀漀氀漀爀猀Ⰰ 䐀礀攀猀琀甀昀昀猀Ⰰ 愀渀搀 䴀漀爀搀愀渀琀猀 漀昀 琀栀攀 嘀椀欀椀渀最 䄀最攀㨀 䄀渀 䤀渀琀爀漀搀甀挀琀椀漀渀∀⸀ 䄀爀琀椀挀氀攀 漀渀ⴀ氀椀渀攀 愀琀 栀琀琀瀀㨀⼀⼀眀眀眀⸀挀猀⸀瘀愀猀猀愀爀⸀攀搀甀⼀縀挀愀瀀爀椀攀猀琀⼀瘀椀欀搀礀攀猀⸀栀琀洀氀Ⰰ 甀瀀搀愀琀攀搀 ㄀㤀㤀㤀Ⰰ 愀挀挀攀猀猀攀搀 ㌀⼀㔀⼀㈀　　㈀⸀ഊ
਀倀爀椀攀猀琀ⴀ䐀漀爀洀愀渀Ⰰ 䌀愀爀漀氀礀渀Ⰰ ∀䄀渀 䄀爀挀栀攀漀氀漀最椀挀愀氀 䜀甀椀搀攀 琀漀 嘀椀欀椀渀最 䴀攀渀✀猀 䌀氀漀琀栀椀渀最∀⸀ 䄀爀琀椀挀氀攀 漀渀ⴀ氀椀渀攀 愀琀 栀琀琀瀀㨀⼀⼀眀眀眀⸀挀猀⸀瘀愀猀猀愀爀⸀攀搀甀⼀縀挀愀瀀爀椀攀猀琀⼀洀攀渀猀最愀爀戀⸀栀琀洀氀Ⰰ 甀瀀搀愀琀攀搀 ㄀㤀㤀㌀Ⰰ 愀挀挀攀猀猀攀搀 ㈀㜀⼀㔀⼀㄀㤀㤀㤀⸀ഊ
਀倀爀椀攀猀琀ⴀ䐀漀爀洀愀渀Ⰰ 䌀愀爀漀氀礀渀 ∀嘀椀欀椀渀最 吀甀渀椀挀 䌀漀渀猀琀爀甀挀琀椀漀渀∀⸀ 䄀爀琀椀挀氀攀 漀渀ⴀ氀椀渀攀 愀琀 栀琀琀瀀㨀⼀⼀眀眀眀⸀挀猀⸀瘀愀猀猀愀爀⸀攀搀甀⼀縀挀愀瀀爀椀攀猀琀⼀瘀椀欀琀甀渀椀挀⸀栀琀洀氀Ⰰ 甀瀀搀愀琀攀搀 ㄀㤀㤀㜀Ⰰ 愀挀挀攀猀猀攀搀 ㈀㜀⼀㔀⼀㄀㤀㤀㤀⸀ഊ
਀刀漀攀猀搀愀栀氀Ⰰ 䔀氀猀攀Ⰰ 吀栀攀 嘀椀欀椀渀最猀Ⰰ 䜀甀椀氀搀 倀甀戀氀椀猀栀椀渀最 ㄀㤀㤀㄀⸀ഊ
਀圀愀氀琀漀渀Ⰰ 倀攀渀攀氀漀瀀攀Ⰰ ∀䐀礀攀猀 漀昀 琀栀攀 嘀椀欀椀渀最 䄀最攀㨀 䄀 匀甀洀洀愀爀礀 漀昀 刀攀挀攀渀琀 圀漀爀欀⸀∀ 䐀礀攀猀 椀渀 䠀椀猀琀漀爀礀 愀渀搀 䄀爀挀栀愀攀漀氀漀最礀 ㄀㤀㠀㠀⸀ഊ
਀圀愀爀搀Ⰰ 䌀栀爀椀猀琀椀攀 䰀Ⰰ ∀嘀椀欀椀渀最 䈀攀愀搀猀 愀渀搀 一攀挀欀氀愀挀攀猀∀⸀ 䄀爀琀椀挀氀攀 漀渀ⴀ氀椀渀攀 愀琀 栀琀琀瀀㨀⼀⼀眀眀眀⸀瘀椀欀椀渀最愀渀猀眀攀爀氀愀搀礀⸀漀爀最⼀瘀椀欀戀攀愀搀猀⸀栀琀洀Ⰰ 愀挀挀攀猀猀攀搀 ㈀㐀⼀㐀⼀㈀　　㄀⸀ഊ
਀圀椀氀猀漀渀Ⰰ 䐀愀瘀椀搀 攀搀Ⰰ 吀栀攀 一漀爀琀栀攀爀渀 圀漀爀氀搀Ⰰ 䠀愀爀爀礀 一 䄀戀爀愀洀猀 一攀眀 夀漀爀欀 ㄀㤀㠀　⸀ഊ 
਀ⴀⴀⴀⴀⴀⴀഊCopyright 2001 by Mark Calderwood. <giles at sca.org.au>. While permission for republication is usually granted, permission to republish this article, in part or in full, requires the explicit permission of the author.
਀ഊIf this article is reprinted in a publication, I would appreciate a notice in the publication that you found this article in the Florilegium. I would also appreciate an email to myself, so that I can track which articles are being reprinted. Thanks. -Stefan.
਀ഊ<the end>
਀䔀搀椀琀攀搀 戀礀 䴀愀爀欀 匀⸀ 䠀愀爀爀椀猀ऀ挀氀ⴀ䐀愀渀椀猀栀ⴀ㄀㄀䌀ⴀ愀爀琀ऀ倀愀最攀 㜀 漀昀 㜀ഊ
ਊ