cl-13th-fem-art - 12/26/09 ਀ഊ"A Brief Critical Look at Women's Thirteenth Century Dress" by Mistress Nicolaa de Bracton of Leicester. ਀ഊNOTE: See also the files: clothing-msg, clothing-L-msg, clothing-MN-msg, fashion-msg, underwear-msg, R-EP-Costume-art. ਀ഊ************************************************************************ ਀一伀吀䤀䌀䔀 ⴀഊ ਀吀栀椀猀 愀爀琀椀挀氀攀 眀愀猀 猀甀戀洀椀琀琀攀搀 琀漀 洀攀 戀礀 琀栀攀 愀甀琀栀漀爀 昀漀爀 椀渀挀氀甀猀椀漀渀 椀渀 琀栀椀猀 猀攀琀 漀昀 昀椀氀攀猀Ⰰ 挀愀氀氀攀搀 匀琀攀昀愀渀✀猀 䘀氀漀爀椀氀攀最椀甀洀⸀ ഊ ਀吀栀攀猀攀 昀椀氀攀猀 愀爀攀 愀瘀愀椀氀愀戀氀攀 漀渀 琀栀攀 䤀渀琀攀爀渀攀琀 愀琀㨀 栀琀琀瀀㨀⼀⼀眀眀眀⸀昀氀漀爀椀氀攀最椀甀洀⸀漀爀最ഊ ਀䌀漀瀀礀爀椀最栀琀 琀漀 琀栀攀 挀漀渀琀攀渀琀猀 漀昀 琀栀椀猀 昀椀氀攀 爀攀洀愀椀渀猀 眀椀琀栀 琀栀攀 愀甀琀栀漀爀 漀爀 琀爀愀渀猀氀愀琀漀爀⸀ഊ ਀圀栀椀氀攀 琀栀攀 愀甀琀栀漀爀 眀椀氀氀 氀椀欀攀氀礀 最椀瘀攀 瀀攀爀洀椀猀猀椀漀渀 昀漀爀 琀栀椀猀 眀漀爀欀 琀漀 戀攀 爀攀瀀爀椀渀琀攀搀 椀渀 匀䌀䄀 琀礀瀀攀 瀀甀戀氀椀挀愀琀椀漀渀猀Ⰰ 瀀氀攀愀猀攀 挀栀攀挀欀 眀椀琀栀 琀栀攀 愀甀琀栀漀爀 昀椀爀猀琀 漀爀 挀栀攀挀欀 昀漀爀 愀渀礀 瀀攀爀洀椀猀猀椀漀渀猀 最爀愀渀琀攀搀 愀琀 琀栀攀 攀渀搀 漀昀 琀栀椀猀 昀椀氀攀⸀ഊ ਀吀栀愀渀欀 礀漀甀ⰀഊMark S. Harris...AKA:..Stefan li Rous ਀猀琀攀昀愀渀 愀琀 昀氀漀爀椀氀攀最椀甀洀⸀漀爀最ഊ************************************************************************ ਀ഊA Brief Critical Look at Women's Thirteenth Century Dress ਀ 戀礀 䴀椀猀琀爀攀猀猀 一椀挀漀氀愀愀 搀攀 䈀爀愀挀琀漀渀 漀昀 䰀攀椀挀攀猀琀攀爀⸀ഊ ਀ऀ䤀琀✀猀 渀漀琀 一漀爀洀愀渀⸀  䤀琀✀猀 渀漀琀 愀 挀漀琀攀栀愀爀搀椀攀⸀  圀栀愀琀 椀猀 椀琀Ⰰ 琀栀攀渀㼀 吀栀攀 琀栀椀爀琀攀攀渀琀栀 挀攀渀琀甀爀礀 洀愀爀欀猀 愀 琀爀愀渀猀椀琀椀漀渀愀氀 瀀攀爀椀漀搀 昀漀爀 眀漀洀攀渀✀猀 挀漀猀琀甀洀攀⸀  吀栀椀猀 椀猀 琀栀攀 氀愀猀琀 洀愀樀漀爀 猀琀礀氀攀 漀昀 挀氀漀琀栀椀渀最 琀漀 愀瀀瀀攀愀爀 戀攀昀漀爀攀 琀栀攀 渀攀眀 搀攀瘀攀氀漀瀀洀攀渀琀猀 椀渀 琀愀椀氀漀爀椀渀最 眀栀椀挀栀 愀瀀瀀攀愀爀 椀渀 琀栀攀 洀椀搀ⴀ昀漀甀爀琀攀攀渀琀栀 挀攀渀琀甀爀礀 ⠀猀甀挀栀 愀猀 琀栀攀 挀漀琀攀栀愀爀搀椀攀Ⰰ 眀椀琀栀 椀琀猀 琀椀最栀琀Ⰰ 猀攀琀ⴀ椀渀 猀氀攀攀瘀攀猀⤀⸀  匀甀爀瀀爀椀猀椀渀最氀礀 攀渀漀甀最栀Ⰰ 琀栀攀 琀栀椀爀琀攀攀渀琀栀 挀攀渀琀甀爀礀 栀愀猀 渀漀琀 戀攀攀渀 猀琀甀搀椀攀搀 渀攀愀爀氀礀 猀漀 洀甀挀栀 愀猀 攀愀爀氀椀攀爀 瀀攀爀椀漀搀猀㬀  愀猀 挀漀洀瀀愀爀攀搀 琀漀Ⰰ 猀愀礀Ⰰ 嘀椀欀椀渀最 挀氀漀琀栀椀渀最 猀琀礀氀攀猀Ⰰ 琀栀攀爀攀 椀猀 愀 爀攀愀氀 搀攀愀爀琀栀 椀渀 猀攀爀椀漀甀猀 爀攀猀攀愀爀挀栀⸀  一漀 猀椀渀最氀攀 眀漀爀欀 栀愀猀 戀攀攀渀 搀攀搀椀挀愀琀攀搀 琀漀 琀栀攀 猀琀礀氀攀猀 漀昀 琀栀攀 琀栀椀爀琀攀攀渀琀栀 挀攀渀琀甀爀礀Ⰰ 愀渀搀 䤀 栀愀瘀攀 昀漀甀渀搀 琀栀愀琀 洀愀渀礀 眀漀爀欀猀 愀爀攀 琀栀甀猀 猀琀椀氀氀 爀攀瀀攀愀琀椀渀最 愀猀猀甀洀瀀琀椀漀渀猀 眀栀椀挀栀 愀爀攀 愀猀 洀甀挀栀 愀猀 昀椀昀琀礀 琀漀 猀椀砀琀礀 礀攀愀爀猀 漀氀搀⸀ 吀栀椀猀 愀爀琀椀挀氀攀 椀猀 琀栀甀猀 愀渀 愀琀琀攀洀瀀琀 琀漀 最椀瘀攀 愀 昀爀攀猀栀 ⠀愀氀戀攀椀琀 戀爀椀攀昀⤀ 氀漀漀欀 愀琀 琀栀椀猀 攀爀愀Ⰰ 戀愀猀攀搀 漀渀 渀攀眀攀爀 爀攀猀攀愀爀挀栀 愀渀搀 洀礀 漀眀渀 攀砀愀洀椀渀愀琀椀漀渀猀 漀昀 椀氀氀甀洀椀渀愀琀椀漀渀猀 愀渀搀 漀琀栀攀爀 猀甀挀栀 攀瘀椀搀攀渀挀攀⸀ഊ ਀ऀ倀愀爀琀 漀昀 琀栀攀 搀攀愀爀琀栀 漀昀 瀀甀戀氀椀猀栀攀搀 洀愀琀攀爀椀愀氀 洀愀礀 戀攀 搀甀攀 琀漀 琀栀攀 氀愀挀欀 漀昀 猀甀爀瘀椀瘀椀渀最 最愀爀洀攀渀琀猀⸀  䤀渀搀攀攀搀Ⰰ 琀栀攀 漀渀氀礀 最愀爀洀攀渀琀 眀栀椀挀栀 䤀 欀渀漀眀 漀昀 眀栀椀挀栀 猀甀爀瘀椀瘀攀猀 椀渀琀愀挀琀 昀爀漀洀 琀栀椀猀 瀀攀爀椀漀搀 椀猀 琀栀攀 猀栀椀爀琀⼀甀渀搀攀爀琀甀渀椀挀 漀昀 䰀漀甀椀猀 䤀堀 眀栀椀挀栀 椀猀 猀琀漀爀攀搀 椀渀 琀栀攀 琀爀攀愀猀甀爀礀 漀昀 一漀琀爀攀 䐀愀洀攀 䌀愀琀栀攀搀爀愀氀 椀渀 倀愀爀椀猀⸀  ⠀吀栀椀猀 椀猀 攀砀挀攀瀀琀椀渀最 攀挀挀氀攀猀椀愀猀琀椀挀愀氀 最愀爀洀攀渀琀猀Ⰰ 眀栀椀挀栀 愀爀攀 挀攀爀攀洀漀渀椀愀氀 椀渀 渀愀琀甀爀攀 愀渀搀 搀漀 渀漀琀 爀攀昀氀攀挀琀 挀甀爀爀攀渀琀 昀愀猀栀椀漀渀⤀⸀ 䠀漀眀攀瘀攀爀Ⰰ 琀栀椀猀 漀渀攀 猀甀爀瘀椀瘀椀渀最 最愀爀洀攀渀琀 搀漀攀猀 猀攀爀瘀攀 琀漀 搀攀猀琀爀漀礀 愀 昀攀眀 洀礀琀栀猀 愀戀漀甀琀 琀栀椀爀琀攀攀渀琀栀 挀攀渀琀甀爀礀 挀氀漀琀栀椀渀最⸀  䈀漀琀栀 䌀甀渀渀椀渀最琀漀渀 愀渀搀 䐀愀瘀攀渀瀀漀爀琀 挀氀愀椀洀 琀栀愀琀 琀栀攀 猀琀礀氀攀 瀀愀爀 攀砀挀攀氀氀攀渀挀攀  椀渀 琀栀椀猀 瀀攀爀椀漀搀 昀攀愀琀甀爀攀搀 猀氀攀攀瘀攀猀 眀栀椀挀栀 眀攀爀攀 挀甀琀 椀渀 漀渀攀 瀀椀攀挀攀 眀椀琀栀 琀栀攀 爀攀猀琀 漀昀 琀栀攀 最愀爀洀攀渀琀⸀  䠀攀爀攀 眀攀 栀愀瘀攀 瀀爀漀漀昀 琀栀愀琀 琀栀椀猀 眀愀猀 渀漀琀 愀氀眀愀礀猀 琀爀甀攀⸀ 䰀漀甀椀猀✀ 猀栀椀爀琀 眀愀猀 挀甀琀 昀爀漀洀 ㈀㈀∀ 眀椀搀攀 洀愀琀攀爀椀愀氀Ⰰ 愀 昀愀椀爀氀礀 猀琀愀渀搀愀爀搀 眀椀搀琀栀Ⰰ 愀渀搀 昀攀愀琀甀爀攀猀 猀攀愀洀猀 愀琀 琀栀攀 猀栀漀甀氀搀攀爀猀⸀ഊ ਀ऀ吀栀椀猀 搀漀攀猀 渀漀琀 渀攀挀攀猀猀愀爀椀氀礀 瀀爀攀挀氀甀搀攀 猀氀攀攀瘀攀猀 眀栀椀挀栀 眀攀爀攀 瀀愀爀琀椀愀氀氀礀  挀甀琀 愀猀 漀渀攀 眀椀琀栀 琀栀攀 戀漀搀礀 漀昀 琀栀攀 最愀爀洀攀渀琀Ⰰ 眀栀椀挀栀 椀猀 愀 昀愀爀 洀漀爀攀 氀椀欀攀氀礀 猀挀攀渀愀爀椀漀 琀栀愀渀 琀栀攀 漀渀攀ⴀ眀椀琀栀ⴀ琀栀攀ⴀ戀漀搀礀 挀漀渀猀琀爀甀挀琀椀漀渀Ⰰ 眀栀椀挀栀 眀漀甀氀搀 眀愀猀琀攀 愀 氀漀琀 漀昀 洀愀琀攀爀椀愀氀⸀  䄀挀挀漀爀搀椀渀最 琀漀 刀漀戀椀渀 一攀琀栀攀爀琀漀渀Ⰰ 眀栀漀 猀瀀漀欀攀 漀渀 挀漀猀琀甀洀攀 愀琀 琀栀攀 䔀愀氀搀漀爀洀攀爀攀 刀唀䴀 氀愀猀琀 礀攀愀爀Ⰰ 猀氀攀攀瘀攀猀 眀攀爀攀 漀昀琀攀渀 挀甀琀 椀渀 琀眀漀 瀀椀攀挀攀猀Ⰰ 眀椀琀栀 愀 猀攀愀洀 猀漀洀攀眀栀攀爀攀 漀渀 琀栀攀 洀椀搀搀氀攀 漀昀 琀栀攀 甀瀀瀀攀爀 愀爀洀 ⠀猀椀洀椀氀愀爀 琀漀 琀栀攀 䤀猀氀愀洀椀挀 猀栀椀爀琀 昀漀甀渀搀 椀渀 䌀甀琀 洀礀 䌀漀琀攀 ⸀⤀  吀栀椀猀 猀攀愀洀 眀愀猀 猀漀洀攀琀椀洀攀猀 栀椀搀搀攀渀 眀椀琀栀 攀洀戀爀漀椀搀攀爀礀 漀爀 挀愀爀搀ⴀ眀漀瘀攀渀 琀爀椀洀 ⠀挀栀愀爀愀挀琀攀爀椀猀琀椀挀 漀昀 一漀爀洀愀渀 猀琀礀氀攀猀⤀ 愀渀搀 椀猀 琀栀攀 瀀漀椀渀琀 愀琀 眀栀椀挀栀 琀椀瀀瀀攀琀猀 愀爀攀 愀琀琀愀挀栀攀搀 漀渀 挀漀琀攀栀愀爀搀椀攀猀⸀ 䤀渀 愀渀礀 挀愀猀攀Ⰰ 椀渀 琀栀攀 琀栀椀爀琀攀攀渀琀栀 挀攀渀琀甀爀礀 琀栀攀 瀀爀攀搀漀洀椀渀愀渀琀 猀琀礀氀攀 昀攀愀琀甀爀攀搀 愀 昀愀椀爀氀礀 氀漀漀猀攀 甀瀀瀀攀爀 愀爀洀 愀渀搀 愀 琀椀最栀琀Ⰰ 挀氀漀猀攀ⴀ昀椀琀琀椀渀最 氀漀眀攀爀 愀爀洀⸀ഊ ਀ऀ匀漀Ⰰ 眀攀 栀愀瘀攀 琀眀漀 瀀漀猀猀椀戀椀氀椀琀椀攀猀 昀漀爀 猀氀攀攀瘀攀猀Ⰰ 戀漀琀栀 攀焀甀愀氀氀礀 瘀愀氀椀搀⸀  䠀漀眀 愀戀漀甀琀 琀栀攀 戀漀搀礀㼀  吀栀攀 䰀漀甀椀猀 䤀堀 猀栀椀爀琀 昀攀愀琀甀爀攀猀 愀 爀攀挀琀愀渀最甀氀愀爀 挀甀琀 眀椀琀栀 椀渀猀攀爀琀攀搀 最漀爀攀猀 琀漀 愀搀搀 戀漀搀礀 琀漀 琀栀攀 氀漀眀攀爀 瀀愀爀琀 漀昀 琀栀攀 琀甀渀椀挀⸀  吀栀椀猀 琀爀攀愀琀洀攀渀琀 猀攀攀洀猀 琀漀 戀攀 愀 猀琀愀渀搀愀爀搀 漀渀攀 昀漀爀 攀愀爀氀礀ⴀ瀀攀爀椀漀搀 挀氀漀琀栀椀渀最⸀  吀爀椀愀渀最甀氀愀爀 愀渀搀 爀攀挀琀愀渀最甀氀愀爀 瀀椀攀挀攀猀 愀氀氀漀眀攀搀 漀渀攀 琀漀 挀漀渀猀攀爀瘀攀 昀愀戀爀椀挀 愀渀搀 礀攀琀 最椀瘀攀 琀栀攀 昀甀氀氀渀攀猀猀 眀栀椀挀栀 眀愀猀 瀀漀瀀甀氀愀爀 愀琀 琀栀椀猀 琀椀洀攀⸀  吀栀攀 搀爀愀瀀攀爀礀 漀昀 琀栀攀 猀琀愀琀甀愀爀礀 攀砀愀洀瀀氀攀猀 䤀 栀愀瘀攀 昀漀甀渀搀 猀栀漀眀 琀栀攀 昀愀戀爀椀挀 戀攀最椀渀猀 琀漀 昀愀氀氀 椀渀 昀漀氀搀猀 愀琀 琀栀攀 戀甀猀琀氀椀渀攀Ⰰ 洀攀愀渀椀渀最 琀栀愀琀 琀栀攀 最漀爀攀猀 眀攀爀攀 椀渀猀攀爀琀攀搀 搀椀爀攀挀琀氀礀 甀渀搀攀爀 琀栀攀 愀爀洀猀⸀ഊ ਀ऀ匀漀 昀愀爀 䤀 栀愀瘀攀 戀攀攀渀 搀椀猀挀甀猀猀椀渀最 琀栀攀 最攀渀攀爀椀挀 最漀眀渀 漀爀 欀椀爀琀氀攀 漀昀 琀栀攀 琀栀椀爀琀攀攀渀琀栀 挀攀渀琀甀爀礀⸀  吀栀攀 猀琀愀渀搀愀爀搀 猀琀礀氀攀 昀漀爀 戀漀琀栀 䔀渀最氀愀渀搀 愀渀搀 䘀爀愀渀挀攀 昀漀爀 琀栀攀 洀愀樀漀爀椀琀礀 漀昀 琀栀攀 琀栀椀爀琀攀攀渀琀栀 挀攀渀琀甀爀礀 挀漀渀猀椀猀琀攀搀 漀昀 愀 瘀攀爀礀 爀漀漀洀礀 最漀眀渀 戀攀氀琀攀搀 愀琀 琀栀攀 眀愀椀猀琀Ⰰ 漀昀琀攀渀 眀椀琀栀 搀攀挀漀爀愀琀攀搀 戀攀氀琀猀⸀  吀栀攀 最漀眀渀 眀愀猀 漀昀琀攀渀 戀氀漀甀猀攀搀 漀瘀攀爀 琀栀攀 戀攀氀琀 猀漀洀攀眀栀愀琀⸀ 䤀琀 眀愀猀 眀漀爀渀 漀瘀攀爀 愀渀 甀渀搀攀爀最漀眀渀Ⰰ 眀栀椀挀栀 漀渀攀 挀愀渀 挀氀攀愀爀氀礀 猀攀攀 猀栀漀眀椀渀最 愀琀 琀栀攀 渀攀挀欀 漀昀 猀漀洀攀 漀昀 琀栀攀 猀琀愀琀甀愀爀礀 攀砀愀洀瀀氀攀猀 䤀 栀愀瘀攀 昀漀甀渀搀⸀  吀栀攀 漀瘀攀爀最漀眀渀✀ 渀攀挀欀氀椀渀攀 挀漀甀氀搀 栀愀瘀攀 愀 琀爀椀愀渀最甀氀愀爀 猀栀愀瀀攀Ⰰ 愀氀氀漀眀椀渀最 琀栀攀 甀渀搀攀爀最漀眀渀 琀漀 猀栀漀眀 琀栀漀爀甀最栀Ⰰ 漀爀  愀 欀攀礀栀漀氀攀 渀攀挀欀氀椀渀攀Ⰰ 漀昀琀攀渀 猀攀挀甀爀攀搀 眀椀琀栀 愀 昀愀渀挀礀 瀀椀渀 愀琀 琀栀攀 琀栀爀漀愀琀Ⰰ 琀栀漀甀最栀 椀氀氀甀洀椀渀愀琀椀漀渀猀 愀氀猀漀 猀栀漀眀 琀栀愀琀 愀 爀漀甀渀搀 渀攀挀欀氀椀渀攀 眀愀猀 愀氀猀漀 甀猀攀搀⸀ 吀栀攀爀攀 椀猀 渀漀 渀攀攀搀 昀漀爀 戀愀挀欀氀愀挀椀渀最 椀渀 愀 最漀眀渀 漀昀 琀栀椀猀 琀礀瀀攀Ⰰ 愀猀 琀栀攀 氀漀漀猀攀 昀椀琀 愀氀氀漀眀猀 漀渀攀 琀漀 瀀甀琀 漀渀 琀栀攀 最愀爀洀攀渀琀 愀猀 椀猀⸀ 吀栀攀猀攀 最漀眀渀猀 眀攀爀攀 挀漀洀洀漀渀氀礀 眀漀爀渀 眀椀琀栀 愀 猀攀洀椀ⴀ挀椀爀挀甀氀愀爀 挀氀漀愀欀⸀  圀漀洀攀渀 漀昀琀攀渀 愀爀攀 瀀漀爀琀爀愀礀攀搀 栀漀氀搀椀渀最 漀渀 琀漀 琀栀攀 氀漀渀最 昀愀猀琀攀渀攀爀猀 眀栀椀挀栀 瀀攀爀洀椀琀琀攀搀 琀栀攀 挀氀漀愀欀 琀漀 挀漀瘀攀爀 琀栀攀 戀愀挀欀 愀渀搀 猀椀搀攀猀 愀渀搀 猀琀椀氀氀 攀砀瀀漀猀攀搀 琀栀攀 昀爀漀渀琀⸀ഊ ਀ऀ吀漀 琀栀椀猀 椀渀 愀戀漀甀琀 琀栀攀 洀椀搀ⴀ㄀㈀　　✀猀 眀愀猀 愀搀搀攀搀 愀 渀攀眀 搀攀瘀攀氀漀瀀洀攀渀琀㨀  琀栀攀 猀甀爀挀漀琀攀⸀  䴀攀渀 栀愀搀 戀攀攀渀 眀攀愀爀椀渀最 琀栀攀 猀甀爀挀漀琀攀 昀漀爀 瀀攀爀栀愀瀀猀 昀椀昀琀礀 礀攀愀爀猀 戀攀昀漀爀攀 琀栀攀 眀漀洀攀渀 愀搀漀瀀琀攀搀 琀栀攀椀爀 漀眀渀 瘀攀爀猀椀漀渀 漀昀 琀栀椀猀 最愀爀洀攀渀琀⸀  伀爀椀最椀渀愀氀氀礀 愀 洀椀氀椀琀愀爀礀 昀愀猀栀椀漀渀 ⠀眀漀爀渀 漀瘀攀爀 洀愀椀氀⤀Ⰰ 琀栀攀 猀甀爀挀漀琀攀 眀愀猀 愀搀漀瀀琀攀搀 昀漀爀 挀椀瘀椀氀椀愀渀 搀爀攀猀猀 戀礀 洀攀渀 焀甀椀琀攀 攀愀爀氀礀 椀渀 琀栀攀 挀攀渀琀甀爀礀⸀  圀漀洀攀渀 昀漀氀氀漀眀攀搀 洀漀爀攀 猀氀漀眀氀礀㬀 洀愀渀礀 挀漀猀琀甀洀攀 戀漀漀欀猀 椀渀 昀愀挀琀 搀愀琀攀 椀琀猀 愀瀀瀀攀愀爀愀渀挀攀 愀洀漀渀最 眀漀洀攀渀 昀愀爀 琀漀漀 攀愀爀氀礀⸀ 䤀琀 椀猀 渀漀琀 甀渀琀椀氀 琀栀攀 昀椀渀愀氀 琀栀椀爀搀 漀昀 琀栀攀 挀攀渀琀甀爀礀 琀栀愀琀 琀栀攀 猀甀爀挀漀琀攀 戀攀挀漀洀攀猀 琀栀攀 搀漀洀椀渀愀渀琀 猀琀礀氀攀 椀渀 猀琀愀琀甀愀爀礀 愀渀搀 椀氀氀甀洀椀渀愀琀椀漀渀Ⰰ 琀栀漀甀最栀 搀甀爀椀渀最 琀栀攀 洀椀搀搀氀攀 琀栀椀爀搀 椀琀 猀攀攀洀猀 琀漀 栀愀瘀攀 攀砀椀猀琀攀搀 愀氀漀渀最猀椀搀攀 琀栀攀 攀愀爀氀椀攀爀 戀攀氀琀攀搀 爀漀戀攀 猀琀礀氀攀⸀  䐀愀瘀攀渀瀀漀爀琀Ⰰ 昀漀爀 椀渀猀琀愀渀挀攀Ⰰ 猀栀漀眀猀 愀渀 愀猀猀漀爀琀洀攀渀琀 漀昀 眀漀洀攀渀 愀渀搀 洀攀渀 昀漀甀渀搀 漀渀 愀 瀀漀爀琀愀氀 愀琀 䈀漀甀爀最攀猀 䌀愀琀栀攀搀爀愀氀㬀 漀渀攀 漀昀 琀栀攀洀 椀猀 愀瀀瀀愀爀攀渀琀氀礀 眀攀愀爀椀渀最 愀 猀甀爀挀漀琀攀Ⰰ 戀甀琀  愀渀漀琀栀攀爀 眀漀洀愀渀 漀渀 琀栀攀 氀漀眀攀爀 爀愀渀欀 椀渀 琀栀攀 猀愀洀攀 猀挀甀氀瀀琀甀爀攀 椀猀 猀琀椀氀氀 眀攀愀爀椀渀最 琀栀攀 漀氀搀攀爀 猀琀礀氀攀⸀  吀栀攀猀攀 猀甀爀挀漀琀攀猀 昀攀愀琀甀爀攀 猀氀攀攀瘀攀 栀漀氀攀猀 挀甀琀 樀甀猀琀 戀攀氀漀眀 琀栀攀 愀爀洀瀀椀琀 漀爀 愀 戀椀琀 氀漀眀攀爀Ⰰ 琀栀漀甀最栀 琀栀攀 匀瀀愀渀椀猀栀 ⠀眀栀漀 猀攀攀洀 琀漀 栀愀瘀攀 愀搀漀瀀琀攀搀 琀栀攀 昀愀猀栀椀漀渀 攀愀爀氀椀攀爀⤀ 栀愀瘀攀 琀栀攀椀爀 漀眀渀 甀渀椀焀甀攀 瘀愀爀椀愀琀椀漀渀猀 漀渀 椀琀⸀  吀栀攀 猀甀爀挀漀琀攀 猀琀礀氀攀 搀漀攀猀 渀漀琀 挀漀洀攀 琀漀 搀漀洀椀渀愀琀攀 䔀渀最氀椀猀栀 昀愀猀栀椀漀渀 甀渀琀椀氀 愀戀漀甀琀 琀栀攀 爀攀椀最渀 漀昀 䔀搀眀愀爀搀 䤀Ⰰ 愀渀搀 攀砀愀洀瀀氀攀猀 漀昀 琀栀攀 攀愀爀氀椀攀爀 猀琀礀氀攀 猀琀椀氀氀 漀挀挀甀爀⸀  吀栀椀猀 琀爀攀渀搀 眀椀氀氀 挀漀渀琀椀渀甀攀 椀渀琀漀 琀栀攀 昀漀甀爀琀攀攀渀琀栀 挀攀渀琀甀爀礀 愀猀 琀栀攀 猀甀爀挀漀琀攀 攀瘀漀氀瘀攀猀 椀渀琀漀 琀栀攀 猀椀搀攀氀攀猀猀 瘀愀爀椀攀琀礀Ⰰ 戀甀琀 渀攀瘀攀爀 挀漀洀瀀氀攀琀攀氀礀 搀椀猀瀀氀愀挀攀猀 琀栀攀 最漀眀渀 眀漀爀渀 愀氀漀渀攀⸀ഊ ਀䘀愀戀爀椀挀猀 愀渀搀 琀爀攀愀琀洀攀渀琀猀㨀ഊ Some examples of thirteenth century textiles now in the Chicago museum give the lie to the belief that elaborate textiles did not exist in this century. In fact, patterned silks (perhaps brought back from the Crusades) and wools in interesting weaves (such as herringbone and lozenge twill) had been available for some time. Archaeological finds from London in the thirteeth century show a preference for simple 2/2 twills (the same type of twill seen in modern denim) Of course, England was particularly known for superior wool, while Flanders and the Low Countries, with their damp conditions preferable to flax-growing, were known for linen production. And about the middle of the century velvet (a kind of silk) makes its first appearance. Evidence from illuminations shows that the upper classes preferred bold, jewel-toned colours (which tended to involve more costly dyes made from insects or which required metallic mordants) while the working classes wore colours, such as russet, yellows, and medium blues, which one could obtain with simpler vegetable dyes. ਀ഊ We do not know much about decoration beyond the fabric itself. In the thirteenth century, the emphasis seems to have been on a few pieces of fine jewellery, rather than on embroidery as a way to liven up fabric. However, with English embroidery nearing its summit at this time, we should probably not discount its use entirely. Sculpture and illumination often lack the detail which might have existed on the actual garments. In general, however, one should avoid wide, elaborate trims and focus instead on the patterning of the fabric itself. ਀ഊ On the shirt of Louis IX all the seams were finished. Techniques, such as French and flat-felled seams, of finishing seams date back at least to the Viking period and are thus not surprising. Also, the neck of the Louis shirt is finished with what an eyewitness tells me resembles nothing so much as "bias tape". ਀ഊHeadgear: ਀ऀ吀眀漀 瘀愀爀椀攀琀椀攀猀 ⠀愀渀搀 愀 洀椀砀 愀渀搀 洀愀琀挀栀 漀昀 琀栀攀猀攀⤀ 愀爀攀 挀漀洀洀漀渀⸀  吀栀攀 昀椀爀猀琀 漀昀 琀栀攀猀攀 挀漀渀猀椀猀琀猀 漀昀 愀 瘀攀椀氀 挀漀洀戀椀渀攀搀 眀椀琀栀 愀 昀甀氀氀 眀椀洀瀀氀攀 ⠀瀀爀漀戀愀戀氀礀 戀椀愀猀ⴀ挀甀琀 昀漀爀 愀 渀椀挀攀 昀椀琀⤀ 眀栀椀氀攀 琀栀攀 猀攀挀漀渀搀 挀漀渀猀椀猀琀猀 漀昀 愀 氀椀渀攀渀 戀愀渀搀 ⠀猀漀洀攀琀椀洀攀猀 昀氀愀爀攀搀Ⰰ 挀爀椀洀瀀攀搀Ⰰ 漀爀 昀氀甀琀攀搀⤀ 眀漀爀渀 漀瘀攀爀 愀 氀椀渀攀渀 挀栀椀渀猀琀爀愀瀀 ⠀瀀椀渀渀攀搀 漀渀 琀漀瀀 漀昀 琀栀攀 栀攀愀搀⤀ 愀渀搀 愀 栀愀椀爀渀攀琀 ⠀猀攀攀 搀爀愀眀椀渀最 戀攀氀漀眀⤀⸀  䌀甀渀渀椀渀最琀漀渀 猀愀礀猀 琀栀攀 栀愀椀爀 眀愀猀 爀漀氀氀攀搀 愀琀 琀栀攀 渀攀挀欀 甀渀搀攀爀渀攀愀琀栀Ⰰ 愀 瘀攀爀礀 氀椀欀攀氀礀 愀爀爀愀渀最攀洀攀渀琀⸀  匀漀洀攀 漀昀 琀栀攀猀攀 栀愀椀爀渀攀琀猀 猀甀爀瘀椀瘀攀 琀漀 琀栀椀猀 搀愀琀攀㬀 琀栀攀礀✀爀攀 洀愀搀攀 漀昀 猀椀氀欀 欀渀漀琀琀攀搀 椀渀 愀 栀愀氀昀ⴀ栀椀琀挀栀 瀀愀琀琀攀爀渀⸀  匀甀爀瘀椀瘀椀渀最 猀琀愀琀甀愀爀礀 猀栀漀眀猀 琀栀愀琀 琀栀攀猀攀 瘀愀爀椀漀甀猀 瀀椀攀挀攀猀 眀攀爀攀 漀昀琀攀渀 愀猀猀攀洀戀氀攀搀 椀渀 搀椀昀昀攀爀攀渀琀 挀漀洀戀椀渀愀琀椀漀渀猀㨀 瘀攀椀氀 眀椀琀栀 眀椀洀瀀氀攀Ⰰ 瘀攀椀氀 眀椀琀栀 渀漀 眀椀洀瀀氀攀Ⰰ 氀椀渀攀渀 戀愀渀搀 眀椀琀栀 挀栀椀渀猀琀愀瀀 愀渀搀 眀椀洀瀀氀攀Ⰰ 攀琀挀⸀ 攀琀挀⸀  吀栀攀爀攀 椀猀 渀漀 漀渀攀 ∀搀攀昀椀渀椀琀攀∀ 猀琀礀氀攀⸀ഊ ਀ऀ吀栀椀爀琀攀攀渀琀栀 挀攀渀琀甀爀礀 眀漀洀攀渀✀猀 搀爀攀猀猀 椀猀 搀攀挀攀瀀琀椀瘀攀氀礀 猀椀洀瀀氀攀⸀  䄀 戀攀最椀渀渀攀爀 挀愀渀 最攀琀 愀 猀攀爀瘀椀挀攀愀戀氀攀 猀攀琀 漀昀 最愀爀戀 眀栀椀挀栀 椀猀 搀椀昀昀攀爀攀渀琀 琀栀愀渀 琀栀攀 挀漀洀洀漀渀 琀ⴀ琀甀渀椀挀 眀椀琀栀 樀甀猀琀 愀 昀攀眀 栀漀甀爀猀 眀漀爀欀Ⰰ  戀甀琀 瀀攀爀昀攀挀琀椀渀最 琀栀攀 昀氀漀眀椀渀最 氀椀渀攀猀 漀昀 琀栀椀猀 猀琀礀氀攀 椀渀瘀漀氀瘀攀猀 戀攀挀漀洀椀渀最 昀愀洀椀氀椀愀爀 眀椀琀栀 琀栀攀 眀愀礀 昀愀戀爀椀挀 搀爀愀瀀攀猀 愀渀搀 昀氀漀眀猀 漀瘀攀爀 琀栀攀 栀甀洀愀渀 昀漀爀洀⸀  䤀 栀愀瘀攀 渀漀琀 最椀瘀攀渀 瀀愀琀琀攀爀渀猀 栀攀爀攀Ⰰ 戀甀琀 爀愀琀栀攀爀 猀椀洀瀀氀攀 漀甀琀氀椀渀攀猀 漀昀 琀栀攀 戀愀猀椀挀 最愀爀洀攀渀琀 猀栀愀瀀攀猀⸀ 䤀昀 礀漀甀 栀愀瘀攀 愀 戀愀猀椀挀 琀甀渀椀挀 瀀愀琀琀攀爀渀Ⰰ 礀漀甀 猀栀漀甀氀搀 戀攀 愀戀氀攀 琀漀 愀搀愀瀀琀 椀琀 琀漀 洀愀欀攀 琀栀攀猀攀 最愀爀洀攀渀琀猀⸀  䘀漀爀 琀栀漀猀攀 漀昀 礀漀甀 眀栀漀 眀椀猀栀 琀漀 搀漀 洀漀爀攀 爀攀猀攀愀爀挀栀Ⰰ 氀漀漀欀 愀琀 愀猀 洀愀渀礀 椀氀氀甀洀椀渀愀琀椀漀渀猀 愀渀搀 猀挀甀氀瀀琀甀爀攀猀 愀猀 礀漀甀 挀愀渀㬀  椀琀 椀猀 漀渀氀礀 戀礀 搀漀椀渀最 猀漀 琀栀愀琀 礀漀甀 挀愀渀 戀攀最椀渀 琀漀 搀攀瘀攀氀漀瀀 愀 挀爀椀琀椀挀愀氀 攀礀攀⸀ 䤀 愀洀 猀琀椀氀氀 椀渀 琀栀椀猀 瀀爀漀挀攀猀猀 洀礀猀攀氀昀Ⰰ 猀漀 猀栀漀甀氀搀 礀漀甀 洀愀欀攀 愀渀礀 最爀攀愀琀 搀椀猀挀漀瘀攀爀椀攀猀Ⰰ 戀礀 愀氀氀 洀攀愀渀猀 氀攀琀 洀攀 欀渀漀眀℀ ഊ ਀匀攀氀攀挀琀 䈀椀戀氀椀漀最爀愀瀀栀礀㨀ഊ ਀䈀漀甀挀栀攀爀Ⰰ 䘀⸀ ㈀　Ⰰ　　　 夀攀愀爀猀 漀昀 䘀愀猀栀椀漀渀⸀  ⠀一攀眀 夀漀爀欀Ⰰ ㄀㤀㠀㜀⤀Ⰰ 瀀瀀⸀㄀㜀㌀ⴀ㄀㠀㤀⸀  一漀琀 瘀攀爀礀 搀攀琀愀椀氀攀搀 昀漀爀 洀礀 瀀攀爀椀漀搀Ⰰ 戀甀琀 愀 昀攀眀 渀椀挀攀 瀀栀漀琀漀猀⸀ഊ ਀䈀甀爀渀栀愀洀Ⰰ 䐀漀爀漀琀栀礀⸀ 䌀甀琀 洀礀 䌀漀琀攀  ⠀吀漀爀漀渀琀漀Ⰰ ㄀㤀㜀㌀⤀⸀ 䌀漀渀琀愀椀渀猀 琀栀攀 猀栀椀爀琀 漀昀 䰀漀甀椀猀 䤀堀Ⰰ 愀猀 眀攀氀氀 愀猀 椀洀瀀漀爀琀愀渀琀 椀渀昀漀爀洀愀琀椀漀渀 漀渀 眀攀愀瘀椀渀最 愀渀搀 昀愀戀爀椀挀⸀ഊ ਀䌀爀漀眀昀漀漀琀Ⰰ 䔀⸀ 攀琀⸀ 愀氀⸀ 吀攀砀琀椀氀攀猀 愀渀搀 䌀氀漀琀栀椀渀最 挀⸀ ㄀㄀㔀　ⴀ挀⸀㄀㐀㔀　⸀  䰀漀渀搀漀渀㨀 䠀䴀匀伀 ⠀䴀甀猀攀甀洀 漀昀 䰀漀渀搀漀渀⤀Ⰰ ㄀㤀㤀㈀⸀  䔀砀挀攀氀氀攀渀琀 渀愀爀爀愀琀椀瘀攀Ⰰ 瀀椀攀挀攀猀 漀昀 猀甀爀瘀椀瘀椀渀最 昀愀戀爀椀挀猀Ⰰ 栀愀椀爀 渀攀琀猀⸀ഊ ਀䌀甀渀渀椀渀最琀漀渀Ⰰ 䌀⸀ 愀渀搀 倀⸀ 䠀愀渀搀戀漀漀欀 漀昀 䔀渀最氀椀猀栀 䴀攀搀椀攀瘀愀氀 䌀漀猀琀甀洀攀⸀  䰀漀渀搀漀渀Ⰰ ㄀㤀㘀㤀⸀  䄀 搀攀挀攀渀琀 猀漀甀爀挀攀 愀猀 愀 猀琀愀爀琀椀渀最 瀀漀椀渀琀⸀ഊ ਀䐀愀瘀攀渀瀀漀爀琀Ⰰ 䴀⸀ 吀栀攀 䈀漀漀欀 漀昀 䌀漀猀琀甀洀攀⸀ ⠀一攀眀 夀漀爀欀Ⰰ ㄀㤀㐀㠀⤀ 瀀⸀ ㄀㔀㄀Ⰰ ㄀㘀㔀ⴀ㄀㠀㤀⸀  䰀漀琀猀 漀昀 渀椀挀攀 瀀椀挀琀甀爀攀猀Ⰰ 挀漀洀洀攀渀琀愀爀礀 伀䬀 戀甀琀 漀挀挀愀猀椀漀渀愀氀氀礀 漀甀琀 漀昀 搀愀琀攀⸀ഊ ਀䬀椀渀最Ⰰ 䐀漀渀愀氀搀⸀ ∀䔀洀戀爀漀椀搀攀爀礀 愀渀搀 吀攀砀琀椀氀攀猀⸀∀ 䘀爀漀洀 愀渀 䔀砀栀椀戀椀琀椀漀渀 䌀愀琀愀氀漀最甀攀 攀渀琀椀琀氀攀搀 䜀漀琀栀椀挀 䔀甀爀漀瀀攀Ⰰ ⠀䰀漀渀搀漀渀Ⰰ ㄀㤀㠀㜀⤀⸀  吀栀椀猀 琀栀椀挀欀 戀漀漀欀 挀漀渀琀愀椀渀猀 椀渀琀爀漀搀甀挀琀漀爀礀 挀栀愀瀀琀攀爀猀 漀渀 樀甀猀琀 愀戀漀甀琀 攀瘀攀爀礀 洀攀搀椀攀瘀愀氀 挀爀愀昀琀Ⰰ 昀漀氀氀漀眀攀搀 戀礀 愀 栀甀最攀 猀攀氀攀挀琀椀漀渀 漀昀 瀀氀愀琀攀猀 漀昀 攀砀椀猀琀椀渀最 漀戀樀攀挀琀猀⸀ഊ ਀䴀愀礀攀爀 吀栀甀爀洀愀渀Ⰰ 䌀⸀䌀⸀ ∀刀攀挀攀渀琀 䄀焀甀椀猀椀琀椀漀渀猀㨀 䄀 䌀漀氀氀攀挀琀椀漀渀 漀昀 吀栀椀爀琀攀攀渀琀栀 愀渀搀 䘀漀甀爀琀攀攀渀琀栀 䌀攀渀琀甀爀礀 圀漀瘀攀渀 䘀愀戀爀椀挀猀 椀渀 䌀栀椀挀愀最漀∀⸀  吀攀砀琀椀氀攀 䠀椀猀琀漀爀礀  ㈀　 ⠀㈀⤀Ⰰ ㈀㐀㤀ⴀ㘀㌀⸀  䔀砀椀猀琀椀渀最 瀀椀攀挀攀猀 漀昀 昀愀戀爀椀挀⸀ഊ ਀一攀眀琀漀渀Ⰰ 匀⸀䴀⸀ 䘀愀猀栀椀漀渀 椀渀 琀栀攀 䄀最攀 漀昀 琀栀攀 䈀氀愀挀欀 倀爀椀渀挀攀 ⸀ ⠀䰀椀琀琀氀攀昀椀攀氀搀Ⰰ ㄀㤀㠀　⤀⸀  吀栀椀猀 琀椀洀攀Ⰰ 琀栀攀 昀漀挀甀猀 椀猀 漀渀 昀漀甀爀琀攀攀渀琀栀 挀攀渀琀甀爀礀 挀氀漀琀栀椀渀最Ⰰ 戀甀琀 一攀眀琀漀渀✀猀 椀渀琀爀漀搀甀挀琀椀漀渀 搀椀猀挀甀猀猀攀猀 眀栀愀琀 挀愀洀攀 戀攀昀漀爀攀 愀渀搀 椀猀 攀砀挀攀氀氀攀渀琀⸀ഊ ਀伀眀攀渀ⴀ䌀爀漀挀欀攀爀Ⰰ 䜀愀椀氀 䐀爀攀猀猀 椀渀 䄀渀最氀漀ⴀ匀愀砀漀渀 䔀渀最氀愀渀搀⸀ ⠀䴀愀渀挀栀攀猀琀攀爀Ⰰ ㄀㤀㠀㘀⤀⸀  䐀漀攀猀 渀漀琀 挀漀瘀攀爀 琀栀攀 琀栀椀爀琀攀攀渀琀栀 挀攀渀琀甀爀礀Ⰰ 戀甀琀 最漀漀搀 昀漀爀 搀攀琀愀椀氀猀 漀昀 攀愀爀氀礀 瀀攀爀椀漀搀 挀甀琀⸀ഊ ਀匀愀甀攀爀氀渀搀攀爀Ⰰ 圀椀氀氀椀戀愀氀搀⸀  䜀漀琀栀椀挀 匀挀甀氀瀀琀甀爀攀 椀渀 䘀爀愀渀挀攀Ⰰ ㄀㄀㐀　ⴀ㄀㈀㜀　⸀ ⠀一攀眀 夀漀爀欀Ⰰ ㄀㤀㜀　⤀⸀  䄀 最爀攀愀琀 猀漀甀爀挀攀 昀漀爀 猀琀愀琀甀愀爀礀⸀ഊ ਀ⴀⴀⴀⴀⴀⴀഊCopyright 1996 by Susan Carroll-Clark, 10 Markbrook Lane #1106, Etobicoke, ON M9V 5E3 CANADA. Permission granted for republication in SCA-related publications, provided author is credited and receives a copy. ਀ഊIf this article is reprinted in a publication, I would appreciate a notice in ਀琀栀攀 瀀甀戀氀椀挀愀琀椀漀渀 琀栀愀琀 礀漀甀 昀漀甀渀搀 琀栀椀猀 愀爀琀椀挀氀攀 椀渀 琀栀攀 䘀氀漀爀椀氀攀最椀甀洀⸀ 䤀 眀漀甀氀搀 愀氀猀漀ഊappreciate an email to myself, so that I can track which articles are being ਀爀攀瀀爀椀渀琀攀搀⸀ 吀栀愀渀欀猀⸀ ⴀ匀琀攀昀愀渀⸀ഊ ਀㰀琀栀攀 攀渀搀㸀ഊEdited by Mark S. Harris cl-13th-fem-art Page 4 of 4 ਀ഊ