brewing-msg - 10/31/06 General brewing info and sources. NOTE: See also the files: beverages-msg, mead-msg, beer-msg, wine-msg, cider-art, cider-msg, p-bottles-msg, small-beer-msg. Mead-Mkng-Tps-art, bev-distilled-msg, Ale-a-Beer-lnks. ************************************************************************ NOTICE - This file is a collection of various messages having a common theme that I have collected from my reading of the various computer networks. Some messages date back to 1989, some may be as recent as yesterday. This file is part of a collection of files called Stefan's Florilegium. These files are available on the Internet at: http://www.florilegium.org I have done a limited amount of editing. Messages having to do with separate topics were sometimes split into different files and sometimes extraneous information was removed. For instance, the message IDs were removed to save space and remove clutter. The comments made in these messages are not necessarily my viewpoints. I make no claims as to the accuracy of the information given by the individual authors. Please respect the time and efforts of those who have written these messages. The copyright status of these messages is unclear at this time. If information is published from these messages, please give credit to the originator(s). Thank you, Mark S. Harris AKA: THLord Stefan li Rous Stefan at florilegium.org ************************************************************************ From: jpullen at goodnet.com (James) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Liquid Libations....... Date: Sat, 15 Jun 1996 19:07:16 GMT For all of you who have been asking about making wines, meads, etc., here is the address of a catalog I just received in the mail. They seem to have almost everything related to wine making and brewing... E. C. Kraus P. O. Box 7850 Independence, MO 64054 From: barat at ionet.net (S. Pursley) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: Brewing Handbook Date: 17 Jun 1996 23:51:44 GMT Organization: Internet Oklahoma adamoferin at aol.com (AdamofErin) wrote: > Unto the Good Gentles of the known world, does Lord Adam send warm > greetings. > > My shire is doing a brewer's handbook as a fund raiser for our Kingdom, > and we are in desperate need of material. My Shire is Highland Foorde and > the Kingdom is Atlantia. If you would care to donate any recipes to this > venture it would be greatly appreciated. I will personally garuntee that > you will get credit for that recipe. When you send it to me include your > name (Mundane and SCA), your Kingdom and your shire. If you want to you > can e-mail me direct at AdamofErin at aol.com. My name is Lord Barat FitzWalter Reynolds (MKA, Stephen Pursley), I am a Master Vintner of the Honorable Brotherhood of Brewers and Vintners. You will find an extensive set of documents on the brewing of mead at: www.oklahoma.net/~herron/barat/index.html You may use any of the information you find there. There are several paragraphs on basic brewing techniques, a section on equipment (mead, beer and wine), and many mead recipies. If you need to contact me, you can reach me at herron at okc.oklahoma.net. Or call me, my phone number is on my resume that's slung off the web page. Share the Knowledge Barat From: Richard Bainter <pug at interval.net> To: bryn-gwlad at eden.com Subject: Re: Brewers' Guild Date: Thu, 17 Oct 1996 11:45:10 -0500 (CDT) > I have a question about beer. Does anybody have a clue as to why my > beers have had a citrusy taste? Besides yeast, here's another reference: ---- G09. SUCROSE VS. CORN SUGAR Both will ferment equally well in your wine, and usually may be used interchangeably, though in different amounts. For those of you with really distinguishing palates, sucrose (table sugar) will give a beverage a fruity character; corn sugar, a malty character. 3/4 unit of sucrose equals 1 unit of corn sugar; therefore if your recipe calls for 1 unit of sugar, you should use 1 1/3 units corn sugar. ---- And check out http://alpha.rollanet.org/Library.html. -- Phelim Uhtred Gervas | "I want to be called. COTTONTIPS. There is something Barony of Bryn Gwlad | graceful about that lady. A young woman bursting with House Flaming Dog | vigor. She blinked at the sudden light. She writes pug at pug.net | beautiful poems. When ever shall we meet again?" From: mshapiro at nando.net (mshapiro) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: Brewing Handbook Date: 21 Jun 1996 03:53:13 GMT : adamoferin at aol.com (AdamofErin) wrote: : > My shire is doing a brewer's handbook as a fund raiser for our Kingdom, : > and we are in desperate need of material. My Shire is Highland Foorde and : > the Kingdom is Atlantia. If you would care to donate any recipes to this : > venture it would be greatly appreciated. I will personally garuntee that : > you will get credit for that recipe. When you send it to me include your : > name (Mundane and SCA), your Kingdom and your shire. If you want to you : > can e-mail me direct at AdamofErin at aol.com. I am Ld Alexander Mareschal, Royal Brewer, Atlantia. Please check out my WEB page, listed below. It contains full text of two of my articles, which were published in TI and my CA on alcoholic beverages. Feel free to use any information from this page which you find useful. I only ask that you credit myself and the original publication. Also, please include the URL of my page. This will insure that as many people as possible will get the most access possible to shared knowledge. -- Marc Shapiro mshapiro at nando.net See my WEB page: The Meadery at http://www.webbuild.com/~mshapiro/index.html THL Alexander Mareschal Canton of Kappelenburg Barony of Windmasters Hill Kingdom of Atlantia From: Marc Shapiro <mn.shapiro1 at mindspring.com> Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: Recipe for Cordials? Date: Tue, 19 Nov 1996 22:02:18 -0500 > I read your cordial recipe and it sounds fairly easy. I am looking for > documentation for cordials. I have never researched these. Check out the Web page listed below (either one will reach the same set of pages). In the section on Research Papers is a link to "Alcoholic Drinks of the Middle Ages" which has a chapter on cordials. This includes history, a little 'How to" and some period recipes, as well. While your at it, check out the rest of the link, which has similar information for wine, beer, mead, whisky, brandy and vinegar. This link is the complete text of the CA #60 of same name. The site also has links to other sites on the theme of brewing and vinting with lots of information to be had. The Cider and Perry sites have some nice info on traditional methods, as I recall. -- Marc Shapiro mn.shapiro1 at mindspring.com THL Alexander Mareschal Canton of Kappelenburg Kingdom of Atlantia http://www.mindspring.com/~mn.shapiro1/index.html http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1265/index.html From: Brian Shafer <shafer at kingsnet.com> Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: Wassail recipe Date: Wed, 27 Nov 1996 14:34:50 -0800 On Tue Nov 26 1996, Holly Allan wrote: >I've been following this thread for a bit and I'd love to try some >of the recipies that have been posted. I do however have one question, >and please excuse me if the answer is obvious; but could you please tell >me what "Cyser" is? Cyser is cider but it has extra adder sugar (usally honey) to produce a higher alcohol content. Apple juice fermented by itself is cider just as honey and water (plus a few brewing chemicals) is mead. When you add fruits or spices it is technically something else. Mead with fruit is called melomel and mead with spices is called metheglin. Also on the same note grape wine made with honey is called pyment and pyment made with herbs is called hippocras. Confusing isn't it? If yoou really are interested in making mead and cider and such here are a few books I suggest. Making Mead (Honey Wine) by Roger A. Morse published by wicwas press, Making Mead by Bryan Acton and Peter Duncan published by G.W. Kent, Inc. and Swet and Hard Cider Making it, using it, and enjoying it by Annie Proulx and Lew Nichols published by Garden Way Publishing. Enjoy! Brian Shafer Date: Tue, 03 Dec 1996 16:24:46 -0600 From: Damaris of Greenhill <damaris at geocities.com> To: ansteorra at eden.com Subject: Re: Mead Brewing? Larkin O'Kane wrote: > Can anyone tell me how to stop the fermentation process when the mead > reaches the desired alcohol/sweetness point? I relise that keeping it > in the refrigerator will do the trick but it only holds so much. > Someone suggested heating the bottles of mead but I don't know what > temperature is sufficient and how long to keep the bottles at that > temperature. One thing you can do, is to keep adding sugar syrup. Eventually the alcohol content will get high enough to kill any yeast. That's not too good if you have achieved the level of alcohol/sweetness that you want. Brewing supply stores sell "yeast stabilizer" which kills the yeast supposedly. I haven't had much luck with it unless I use it in conjunction with camden tablets. If sulfites don't bother you then you can use camden alone about 1-2 tablets per gallon. Subject: Re: Mead Brewing? To: ansteorra at eden.com Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 12:12:52 -0600 (CST) From: "Pug Bainter" <pug at pug.net> > Can anyone tell me how to stop the fermentation process when the mead > reaches the desired alcohol/sweetness point? I relise that keeping it > in the refrigerator will do the trick but it only holds so much. > Someone suggested heating the bottles of mead but I don't know what > temperature is sufficient and how long to keep the bottles at that > temperature. There are lots of ways of doing this, some work, some don't very well. Refridgeration only makes the yeast go dorment. They will start up again if they can get above a certain temperature. Matter of fact, some yeasts want to ferment at colder temps. They take much longer though. I believe in once refridgerated, always refridgerated. Adding a stabalizing agent. I've not had much luck this way. Some info from the wine.faq is: Sorbate: Potassium sorbate. A substance that is noxious to yeasts and as such is used as a stabilizer. It should be noted that sorbate's effectiveness depends on low yeast counts in the wine; if it's high, it will be inneffective. Clear your wine properly, and ferment out to sg 1.000 or less. Sulphite (or sulphate): Referring to sodium metabisulphite or potassium metabisulphite. A substance that is noxious to many spoilage microorganisms and wild yeasts and as such is used as a microbiological and oxidative inhibitor and stabilizer. It should be noted that sulphite's effectiveness depends on low organism counts in the wine; if it's high, it will be inneffective. Clear your wine properly and ferment out to sg 1.000 or less. Pasteurization is done by steeping in a water bath at 60 C (140 F), and hold this temperature for 20 mins. Cool to 18 C (74 F). I've never tried this. I've heard lots of people have bottles explode doing this. I believe in either using a yeast that will stop at the desired sweetness, usually ale yeasts work well and the one I use stops at about 10% alcohol, or starting with a higher opening SG. Champagne and wine yeasts go from 8 to 18% depending on the strain. Letting fermentation go to it's full extent will also leave a clearer wine in the end. (Less dregs at the bottom.) Btw, although clearing agents help some, a single yeast cell can start it all off again. Phelim Uhtred Gervas | "I want to be called. COTTONTIPS. There is something Barony of Bryn Gwlad | graceful about that lady. A young woman bursting with House Flaming Dog | vigor. She blinked at the sudden light. She writes pug at pug.net | beautiful poems. When ever shall we meet again?" Subject: Re: Mead Brewing? To: ansteorra at eden.com Date: Mon, 9 Dec 1996 14:01:23 -0600 (CST) From: "Pug Bainter" <pug at pug.net> >> In those cases had the yeast gotten to alcohol tolerence or simply >> ran out of food/sugar? Since most wine references I seen suggest to >> get the SG down as close to 1.000 as possible, I would think that >> they simply didn't have any more sugar to convert. > I've never made such measurements in the mead I've made. Are you saying > that as the sugar is used up the S. G. approaches 1.0? That's what I'm saying. 1.000 is the SG (density) of standard water at 70F (?). If I remember right, alcohol has a lower SG than water. I don't know much about the actual chemistry though and should pick up a book on it. (*grumbles for thinking he didn't have to have chemistry in school*) > Is this reading > affected only by the sugar content? Or do other things that have been > added affect it also? It's mostly the sugar (fermentable and non-fermentable) content. Other things do affect it, but usually only minorly in my experience. (ie. spices and other flavorings, actual pulp will skew it though) > If 1.0 means no sugar then that would be a very dry mead. Yes it is and would. I know a lot of people who like it this way though. > What kind of numbers should one expect to see: > a) at the first, when you start brewing? We start at about 1.130 to 1.150 with our stuff. This can ferment out to 18-20% given the right yeasts. Some people suggest to stay below 1.100 which is about 14% if fermented out. > b) at the end for a sweet mead? I would guess around 1.020 to 1.040 for a sweet mead. The one we entered was at 1.052 and might have been a little too sweet for some folks. Btw, we took third in the mead category despite being entered improperly as a traditional mead when it's a metheglin mead. (*grumbles at entry people*) We don't know if we would have placed any higher if entered in the correct catagory since we still had good marks. One of the meads that beat us took 1st runner up overall. (Of course it was a young mead that hadn't aged anywhere near long enough. Next time we'll do it right by planning in advance instead of entering at the last moment with what we were currently bottling.) > c) at the end for a dry mead? Since most of the sugar in honey is fermentable it will come close to or below 1.000. Take a look at http://alpha.rollanet.org/~tamhc/hall/mead_judging.txt for some real good guidelines for judging. Some of the relevant information is: Varietal modifier: The variety of honey that a mead is made from will often have a large effect on the flavor of the mead. The brewer should specify the varietal honey (for example, clover or orange blossom). The mead should have some character from the varietal honey, especially if it is a traditional mead. Strength (Hydromel / Standard / Sack) modifier: The strength of a mead is primarily based on the original gravity. Hydromels (watered mead) will have specific gravities roughly less than 1.080. Standard strength meads will be in the original gravity range from 1.080 to 1.120. Sack meads will generally be greater than 1.120. This modifier was designed so that well-made delicate hydromels will not be overlooked in favor of the more emphatic sack meads. Make sure to judge each strength of mead according to its own merits. Sweetness (Dry / Medium / Sweet) modifier: The perceived sweetness is largely a function of the final specific gravity, but other variables such as the acidity will also have an effect. Roughly, a dry mead will have a final gravity less than 1.010, a medium mead will fall in the range from 1.010 to 1.025, and a sweet mead will be greater than 1.025. Carbonation Level (Still / Sparkling) modifier: Still meads should have little or no carbonation. Some slight carbonation is acceptable. Sparkling meads should have a definite effervescence and tingly mouthfeel. Tiny bubbles are preferable to large bubbles. > d) are the numbers similar for wines? And ciders as well. Beers are a completely different ballgame due to the materials used and the alcohol contents desired. From a humor file I got today: In Kentucky it is by law that anyone who has been drinking is "sober" until he or she "cannot hold onto the ground." Phelim Uhtred Gervas | "I want to be called. COTTONTIPS. There is something Barony of Bryn Gwlad | graceful about that lady. A young woman bursting with House Flaming Dog | vigor. She blinked at the sudden light. She writes pug at pug.net | beautiful poems. When ever shall we meet again?" From: Philip & Susan Troy <troy at asan.com> Date: Tue, 13 May 1997 18:35:27 -0400 Subject: Re: SC - kvas Mark Harris wrote: > >A primary fermenter, such as is used with English ales, is helpful here, > >or you'll almost certainly clog the airlock and explode! > > What is a "primary fermenter"? I've made mead but not beer or ale. A primary fermenter is usually a sort of bucket with a snap-on top. Some modern English recipes call for doing the first fermentation, which produces a lot of gunky foam which generally dries to the consistency of concrete, in such a fermenter, often topped with some kind of plastic wrap, before going to the standard secondary fermenter, which is usually a glass carboy with a water-filled airlock fitted to it. If you don't watch it carefully, and do a primary fermentation in a carboy, there's a chance the airlock will get clogged with dried foam, and some sort of explosion might result. For our batch of kvass we used a wide-mouthed glass demijohn, formerly used for making wine. It has a snap-on top with a pinhole punched in it, to relieve excess gas pressure. Had there been any problems with clogging, the top just lifts off, and you can go in with something like a stainless-steel spoon to remove the crud. Adamantius Date: Sat, 07 Jun 1997 00:06:36 -0400 (EDT) From: ALBAN at delphi.com To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu Subject: Re: pre-1600 documentation on Mead (I knew I had an answer to this, but it took me a while to remember it.) Check out "Elinor Fettiplace's Receipt Book", by Hilary Spurling. (New York, Viking/Penguin, 1986, and the ISBN's downstairs. I can get it for you if you want it.) Spurling was rummaging through her attic one afternoon, according to her foreward, and she came across a manuscript inherited by her husband, from one of his distant ancestors, the aforementioned Lady Elinor Fettiplace. The recipe book was dated roughly 1604.... Spurling took it, read it, tested out some of the recipes in both the original and redacted versions, did some historical research (her profession is historian), and *poof* wrote a book on it. Good stuff: not only recipes, but also _when_ they'd be likely to serve what. The chapters are the months; every chapter/month has recipes and such in it appropriate to that month. (Fettiplace's household went through something like 20 barrels of ale/beer for the Twelfth Night festivities.....) It's unfortunately out of print, I believe, so check Amazon, or my personal favorite bookstore, Powell's in Portland Oregon, where I stumbled across both of my copies. Alban Subject: Re: Great Books for the SCA Tradition To: ansteorra at eden.com Date: Thu, 12 Jun 1997 07:29:36 -0500 (CDT) From: "Pug Bainter" <pug at pug.net> > The New Complete Joy of Homebrewing I must disagree. *grin* I think that Homebrewing should be passed on from person to person. (Or learned in my favorite method, trial and error.) If you want some "period" recipes, try Cindy Renfro's "A Sip Through Time". It does nothing for teaching how to brew, but is a nice place to find a lot of period and close to period recipes. (Some of them blantently not though.) It has a few flaws, but I overlook those. (They are mostly in the recipe ingredients and the "time to completion". She tried to be correct, but missed here and there.) Phelim "Pug" Gervase | "If you want my views of history, Barony of Bryn Gwlad | there is something you should know. House Flaming Dog | The three men I admire the most are pug at pug.net | Curly, Larry and Moe." --Meatloaf From: Hugh Niewoehner <hughn at ssd.fsi.com> Date: Fri, 13 Jun 1997 12:58:41 -0500 To: ansteorra at eden.com Subject: Subject: Brewing books/methods... >> Anyway there is one called Making Mead. The >> authors name escapes me right now. Acton - Duncan From my wine makers handout: "The Amateur Winemaker" in England publishes a book called Making Mead. The authors, Bryan Acton and Peter Duncan, have compiled a bit of the history behind mead, including the origin of the term "honeymoon" as well as a good beginners guide to amateur wine making. It's well worth the couple of dollars that it costs. One of the best though has got to be: BREWING MEAD, Wassail! in mazers of mead. Gayre & Nigg w/ Charlie Papazian ISBN 0-937381-00-4 This is actually two seperate books under one cover. Kind of expensive but a very educational read for the serious mead maker. The major segment of the book is a history of mead making from it's earliest roots up through today. The last 15%(?) is Papazians book on how to make mead. Note though that Papazian is a beer maker not a wine maker asnd therefore his recipies are geared to beer style meads with hops and/or malt. >Mistress Clare has also been nice enough to lend me a copy of Digby for >reference. *rubs his hands gleefully* Digby _is_ interesting. The is at least one SCA vinter who has won mundane competitions using adapted Digby recipes. More modern sources that are useful in improving technique: The Art of Making Wine. by Stanley Anderson with Raymond Hull. This book includes a section for novices as well as advanced concepts and techniques. Also, it has a good description of what effects acidity, temperature and other variables will have on your wine. Lastly it has in the back, a troubleshooting guide to common problems encountered in vinting and how to fix it, if a fix is possible. Winemaking by Stanley F Anderson and Dorothy Anderson. Published by Harcourt Brace & Company 1989 ISBN 0-15-697095-3(pbk.) This is a thick book which will run you about twenty dollars. It is full of recipes, equipment descriptions, techniques and a large reference section. The authors are two of the major instigators of the home winemakers market in the US and Canada as we now know it. He has put his fourty years or more of experience into this book for all to see the ease with which anyone can produce a high quality wine. 0-============================================================= |Hugh Niewoehner | FlightSafety International | |Sr. Engineer - Avionics Systems | Simulator Systems Division | |hughn at ssd.fsi.com | 2700 N. Hemlock Circle | |(918)/251-0500 x528 | Broken Arrow, OK 74012 | =============================================================== Date: Mon, 9 Jun 1997 15:26:00 -0400 (EDT) From: Mark Schuldenfrei <schuldy at MATH.HARVARD.EDU> To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu Subject: Re: pre-1600 mead docs-Digby I would point out that while Digby was not published until 1620 doesn't make it an out of period source. If I recall correctly, it was published 3 generations after the close of period, and not before. Quick research shows that Digby was born after period (1603) died long after period (1665) and the book was published some years later (1669). Not to mention that Digby himself invented a few techniques that revolutionized brewing, and therefore his recipes cannot be considered to have used period technique. (The strong bottle, cf SCUM, an article by Morgaine ferch Cadwr). Many folks choose to disagree. But I'd place Digby so far post period as to be almost inconceivable for period brewing. Tibor Date: Tue, 1 Jul 1997 00:55:04 -0600 (MDT) From: Frederick C Yoder <fyoder at mesa5.mesa.colorado.edu> To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu Subject: Metal and Mongolian Boozing! Wanted to pass along a couple of useful resources. <snip> The other, and possibly more fun, book is "Primitive Drinking: A study of the uses and functions of alcohol in preliterate societies" by Chandler Washburne, 1961. While it is in all likelihood out of print, it's available via inter-library. It has two especially interesting chapters on alcohol use in Ainu and Mongolian cultures, uses relating to social, religious, ritual and medicine. It also discusses prohibitions on use, and manufacture. While not period, it does contrast changes in patterns with more recent use and may provide that little extra you're looking for in your encampment. Fred Yoder fyoder at mesa5.mesa.colorado.edu Grand Junction, CO Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 09:24:47 -0400 From: Philip & Susan Troy <troy at asan.com> Subject: Re: SC - Re: A couple questions . . . Mark Schuldenfrei wrote: > Research by a friend of mine (who happens to be A&S Minister of the East, so > she's no lightweight) has shown that Digby changed a lot of the technology > of brewing in his time: inventing the strong bottle, and so forth. > > I like Digby: it's an easy to use and read source. But I don't consider it > period. YMMV > > Tibor Agreed on principal. However, I feel I need to qualify that with my opinion that while there are some areas in which Digby appears to have been a quite influential brewer whose "career" might be regarded as a sort of turning point for the art, there are nonetheless many areas in which the art has remained consistent before, during, and after the time in which Digby lived, brewed, wrote, died, and was published. Much of what Digby wrote applies to period brewing, as well. Of course, it's hard to tell which is which sometimes, so I'd be inclined to use Digby as a secondary source, in the sense that he might provide useful insight into the interpretation of a more period recipe. Note that I said, "might". On a similar note, Gervase Markham has also been placed as officially OOP by his 1615 publication date. I personally feel that Markham has quite a lot more to teach about brewing as a science than Digby, because the process of English-style infusion mashing is explained in quite clear detail, while Digby just speaks of pouring your boiling water over the malt, which, if followed to the letter, may well not result in anything drinkable. The other charge sometimes made against Markham, generally as an attempt to discredit his value as a nominally period source, is that he was a plagiarist. What many people who repeat this charge fail to take into account is that what he was accused of plagiarizing was his own work, over about the forty years previous to the publication of "The English Housewife". The charges of plagiarism were made by a consortium of publishers, who threatened to blackball him, essentially, if he attempted to recycle any more of his previous works. In other words, much of what was published in The English Housewife in 1615 had been previously published, by Markham, in the 1570's and '80's. Adamantius Date: Fri, 17 Oct 1997 09:00:50 -0400 (EDT) From: Mark Schuldenfrei <schuldy at abel.MATH.HARVARD.EDU> Subject: Re: SC - Re: A couple questions . . . > This may be the wrong forum, but what DO people consider to be "period" > brewing sources? Good forum. There are better ones (the historical brewing mailing list comes to mind). Digby's great advantage: it's a brewing book, basically. Nothing else comes close. There are smatterings of brewing recipes in Curye on Inglische, Menagier, Eleanor Fettiplace, and others. Medicinal books often have cordial-like recipes. Some of the sources can be found in Renfrow's "A Sip Through Time", along with tons of post-period stuff. (I think she reads this list, but I'll dare say anyway.... it's a pretty expensive tome, but it is also probably the only one-stop-shopping for medieval brewing that I know of. I wouldn't have paid the stiff cover price, except I'm a completist for books. Sigh.) I've put several recipes on the web: you can find them at http://www.math.harvard.edu/~schuldy/brewing.html The are basically transcribed from some private email I sent a long time ago. It's not to be taken as gospel: merely a convenience. Tibor Date: Fri, 17 Oct 1997 09:11:04 -0400 From: Philip & Susan Troy <troy at asan.com> Subject: Re: SC - Re: A couple questions . . . Meliora & Drake wrote: > > This may be the wrong forum, but what DO people consider to be "period" > brewing sources? > > Meliora. Gervase Markham's "The English Housewife" is debatably period: while its publication date is 1615 or so, the material in it had been written and previously published up to twenty or more years earlier. Other than that, there are numerous sources for individual recipes, or small clusters of them. See the "Goud Kokery" volume of "Curye on Inglysche" for early 15th-century recipes for mead and braggot. There are a couple of recipes in the Forme Of Cury, also, from the 14th century. I believe there are a couple of 16th century ale recipes in (William?) Harrison's account of his travels through England, dated around 1570. There is an early 14th century mead recipe in Ein Buoch Von Guter Spise, and then, of course, there is the hydromeli recipe, really more of a description, in the Historia Naturalis of Pliny the Elder, 1st century AD. Probably the best place to start would be Cindy Renfrow's "A Sip Through Time", and there are some resources on the Web, also. Adamantius Date: Fri, 17 Oct 1997 22:11:35 -0400 From: renfrow at skylands.net (Cindy Renfrow) Subject: Re: SC - Re: A couple questions . . . Hello! Thanks for the plug! (BTW, suggested list for "A Sip Through Time" is $18.00 U.S. Dealer prices may vary.) Regarding period brewing recipes, and cordials in particular, please be very careful! Many of the ingredients called for can be harmful. A Short list of Poisonous or Harmful plants to be Avoided: Bittersweet (Solanum Dulcamara), Bog Myrtle (Sweet Gale, Myrica Gale), Celandine Poppy, China Root, Florence Iris, Groundsel, Kill Lamb, LILY-OF-THE-VALLEY, Orris Roots, Pennyroyal, Rhubarb Leaves, Sassafras, Turnsole, Wormwood SEEDS AND PITS OF: Apple, Apricot, Cherry, Citrus Fruit, Peach, Pear, Plum. Crushing these pits releases hydrocyanic acid. The Olde Cookery Page contains an abbreviated herbal, as well as lots of brewing recipes: http://www.bahnhof.se/~chimbis/tocb/index.html To subscribe to the historical brewing mailing list send an email to majordomo at pbm.com saying "subscribe hist-brewing". Regards, Cindy Renfrow/Sincgiefu renfrow at skylands.net http://www.alcasoft.com/renfrow/asip.html Date: Fri, 19 Dec 1997 21:36:29 EST From: LrdRas <LrdRas at aol.com> Subject: Re: SC - novice requests - longish << I don't know about wine >> Unfermented grape juice is also called must. Ras Date: Fri, 19 Dec 1997 11:43:23 EST From: Tyrca <Tyrca at aol.com> Subject: Re: SC - novice requests - longish << sure, for example, what's mazing? curiouser and curiouser said Puck >> Actually, it is all very simple. A creator of beer is a brewer, a creator of wine is a vintner, and a creator of mead is a mazer. I think it comes from the un-fermented liquid being called must. I don't know about wine, but unfermented liquid that will soon be beer is called wort. I have always found that vocabulary is extremely useful when learning about a new subject. And now you can sound so much more knowledgable. My second effort at mead was something slightly related to another discussion we have been having about late cooking and early personnas. I am Irish/Norse from the 11th Century, and I wanted to make a fruit mead with fruit easy to find in Ireland. So I put together a Current mead. It is still aging, so I have no definite opinion on it yet, but I named it, "A Mazer's Grace" just for fun. No, I didn't find a recipe for it, as most of the mead recipes I have seen were from Digby, and those were printed actually outside of period. Tyrca Date: Mon, 29 Dec 1997 08:55:55 -0800 From: "Crystal A. Isaac" <crystal at pdr-is.com> Subject: SC - Re: Mead notes Ania, also known as John and Barbara Enloe wrote: > Dear Puck: > Per your request, here's our recipe for small mead. snippings and clippings says Gurgi. > Just a few more hints: > 1) Make sure everything is CLEAN and rinsed of any/all soap residue. In > fact, we don't use soap in our bottles. Just lots of hot water and sulfites. > 2) Sulfite down the primary before you put in the hot mead mixture. <snip> An excellent description of small mead. However, a little point: many people are allergic to sulfites. If you use them, please add that fact to your labels. If you are allergic to Sulfites, please do NOT simply skip the sanitization step, use another agent such as unscented household bleach (a teaspoon per gallon of water and wait 30 minutes - and don't let any get into your mead) or Iodophor (a tablespoon per five gallons of water and wait 3 minutes - really don't let any into your mead). Sanitization is where you place *everything* that is going to touch the mead after it is boiled in a sanitizing solution. I fill my bucket-style fermentation vessel with water and sanitizer; then place the lid, fermentation lock, and rubber stopper in it. Making mead is easy and fun, the challenging part is keeping everything clean and sanitized. Crystal of the Westermark (mka Crystal A. Isaac) Date: Mon, 29 Dec 1997 12:50:55 -0800 (PST) From: "Mike C. Baker" <kihe at rocketmail.com> Subject: Re: SC - brewing/mazing/etc - ---Charles McCathieNevile <charlesn at sunrise.srl.rmit.edu.au> wrote: > One of the modern tricks I find very handy is to use the > little water airlocks you buy from brewing suppliers for > about $1 in a sealed barrel for my primary fermentation. > THis stops bubbling when fermentation is > more or less complete. Even safer / better is to fill the airlock with "spiritous liquor" (I use the same cheap vodka that goes into my tinctures). === Adieu -- Amra / Pax ... Kihe / TTFN -- Mike (al-Sayyid) Amr ibn Majid al-Bakri al-Amra / Date: Tue, 30 Dec 1997 09:43:02 -0800 (PST) From: "Mike C. Baker" <kihe at rocketmail.com> Subject: Re: SC - brewing/mazing/etc - ---kappler <kappler at edgenet.net> wrote: > > Even safer / better is to fill the airlock with "spiritous > > liquor" (I use the same cheap vodka that goes into my tinctures). <SNIP> > Iv'e been brewing for quite sometime now, and this is the > first time I ever heard of using spirits in the airlock > insted of water. As the fluid in the airlock simply works > as a check valve (allows flow in only one direction) > to allow the CO2 generated in fermentation out and preventing > wild yeasts and stuff in the atmosphere from getting in, how > does it make a difference what the fluid is? Others have already hit on why *I* think it is superior: no wild yeastie-beasties or other dreck grows in the vodka. (The stuff I'm using in the lock is only about 70 proof, i.e. 35% ethanol.) The note about checking the content of the lock chamber regularly is also well to remember, with water OR spirits. (If the water is starting to look cloudy or has scum on the surface, seriously consider swapping out with a spare lock and re-sterilizing.) Another advantage over water is that in the remote possibiity the fluid in the lock gets sucked back into the fermentation chamber, spirits will still tend to remain on the surface of the stuff that is happily burbling and reduce the chance of losing the whole batch. ============ Adieu -- Amra / Pax ... Kihe / TTFN -- Mike (al-Sayyid) Amr ibn Majid al-Bakri al-Amra / Date: Tue, 30 Dec 1997 10:19:01 -0800 From: "Crystal A. Isaac" <crystal at pdr-is.com> Subject: Re: SC - brewing/mazing/etc What fluid is in the airlock makes a difference. If you use unclean water in the airlock there is a (small) danger that is may be sucked down into the fermenting mead when the temperature changes or slosh around when the fermenter is moved. Cheap vodka is clean and sanitary and nothing will live in it. Cheap vodka does not attract spiders like water does. (Yes, you will occasionally find a spider in your airlock, don't panic, just sanitize another one and replace it.) Crystal of the Westermark Date: Tue, 30 Dec 1997 00:25:44 -0500 From: Nick Sasso <grizly at mindspring.com> Subject: Re: SC - Re: Mead notes John and Barbara Enloe wrote: > Just a quick addendum -- Please Do Not Use Bleach -- It Does Leave A > taste In the Bottle. > > Jon I actually will ue nothing but bleach in my bottles. Given copious quantities of hot water and a jet bottle washer, the only unusual taste in the bottle is my meads. Other sanitizers I've found dicey. Bleach at 1/4 c. per 5 gallons (WAY strong) is good for what ails you after a 15 min soak, my most reliable sanitizer......the most popular in food preps nation- wide. Iodizer can be okay, but will not loosen the crusty bits like sodium hypochlorite (bleach). Washing soda is the absolute BOMB on labels. 1/2 cup in 20 gallons will have most of the labels floating on the surface overnight. niccolo Date: Thu, 01 Jan 98 02:40:17 PST From: "kappler" <kappler at edgenet.net> Subject: Re: SC - Re: Mead notes > Hummmm, a query from a very inexperienced would-be mead maker--could you > not rinse out the containers after they have been sanitized (by either method) > with plain water (or boiling water, perhaps?)? That would seem to solve the > problem, although it does add an extra step in the proccess. > > Ldy Diana Why yes! I normally use iodophore (sp?) or B-Brite, but have on occasion not had them available and used a dilute bleach solution. Regardless of the sanitizer used, a rinse with boiled water always follows to ensure no pollution of the wort/must. Highly effective and recognozed/recommended by the more advanced brewers and vintners I know. Of course, being a Puck and therefore scrupulous only about what I brew and cook, I rinse twice. Regards, Puck Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 09:43:35 -0500 From: "Gedney, Jeff" <Gedney at executone.com> Subject: SC - SC- sterilants and ferm locks > From: John and Barbara Enloe <jbenloe at mindspring.com> > > If you use sulfite solution in the airlock, you get the staying power > of water and the disinfecting power of the alcohol. > > Jon Just a quick note: Sulfite may be fine sterilants for wines and meads, but they have their limits. Do not use sulfites EVER when using malt as a base, ( as in beer brewing). The sulfites combine with some byproduct of the yeast action on the malt sugar to make hydrogen sulfide gas. ( rotten egg gas ) Even a little of this makes TRULY "skunky" beer. I use the "two chamber" type of lock and I have no problems with crosscontamination. I also use boiled water in the lock. Brandu Date: Sun, 10 May 1998 07:56:24 -0700 (PDT) From: Nick Sasso <grizly_nick at rocketmail.com> Subject: Re: SC - peach mead? > >>Then cool with wort chiller and place fruit in the fermenter with the > must.<< > > This thread is great, I'm learning a lot. What is 'wort chiller'? I'm > pretty sure you don't mean frozen cabbage! ;-) > > Lady Allison A wort chiller is something that quickly drops temperature of your heated fermentable liquid to 70F for pitching. The most common technology I am aware of is 30-50' of 3/8" copper tubbing coiled in 12-16" diameter. The ends bend stright up through the middle and rise about 6" above the whole. To each off these ends is attached hose/tubing with one having a threaded fitting that fits your faucet (usually garden hose sized). You drop the contraption into the boil for last 5 to 10 minutes, then hook it up when flame is off. One end to kitchen faucet, free end into sink, out window, etc. Turning on th water makes a great heat transfer unit for the wort, not unlike your car radiator. In 20-35 minutes, depending on effieciency your stuff is ready for the yeast.....way better than "cover and wait overnight". niccolo Date: Sun, 10 May 1998 13:31:58 -0400 From: Chris Peters <cpeeters at cinemagnetics.com> Subject: Re: SC - peach mead? A wort chiller is a nifty little device availiable at most brewshops. After you have boiled your wort you attch this device to your faucet. It is essentially a series of copper coils with an inlet and an outlet. You attach the inlet to your faucet. The coils go into your wort with the outlet hanging outside of the pot to your drain. You then turn on the cold water. It essentially cools down the wort so that when you pitch it into your primary to pitch your yeast. Hope this helps. SCA - Padrhaig ne Killkenny Mundanely - Chris Peters Date: Mon, 11 May 1998 10:48:38 -0400 From: "marilyn traber" <mtraber at email.msn.com> Subject: Re: SC -wort chiller A nifty gizmo very useful to home brewers! It is a commonly stocked item in brewers supply stores made of a coil of copper tubing with an end that one attaches a hose to hook up to a cold water tap, and an end one attaches a hose to stick down a drain and you stick it in the boiling kettle after taking it off the heat and running the coldest water you can find through it while immersed in the wort to cool it off so it can be immediately worked with without having to wait for the several hours for it to cool down enough. Alternately you run the wort through the tube with the coil being in a bucket of ice. Many people I know swear by both methods, but I have found i would rather deal with sterilizing the outsides of the tubes than dealing with cleaning and sterilizing the insides of the tubes. To each their own. You can make your own with food grade tygon tubing from Home Depot if you like. margali Subject: RE: ANST - warm temperature fermentation Date: Mon, 22 Jun 98 09:03:43 MST From: Kevon at corridor.net To: <ansteorra at Ansteorra.ORG> You Wrote: >As for glass carboys, check your local brewers supply store. I picked >mine up (5 gal, I use it as a seconday with a plastic primary) for about >$25 or so. The 6.5 gallon ones were about $30 IIRC. That's big enough >to handle the active primary fermentation without filling the airlock >with all kinds of goop. >Felip San Juan If you are paying that much for carbouys, you are paying too much. Cut an pasted from an on-line catalogue of a local Brew-supply store (does mail order, but the shipping will kill ya) 5 Gallon Glass Carboy $15.75 6.8 Gallon Glass Carboy $17.75 Your best bet (if ya live in a large city) is to call around to the water bottling places and see if they bottle in glass. I did this in San Antonio and picked up 5 5gal. glass bottles for $8.75 each (about 4 years ago) Prost! Subject: Re: ANST - warm temperature fermentation Date: Mon, 22 Jun 98 09:19:48 MST From: "Pug Bainter" <pug at pug.net> To: ansteorra at Ansteorra.ORG Kevon at corridor.net said something that sounded like: > If you are paying that much for carbouys, you are paying too much. > Cut an pasted from an on-line catalogue of a local Brew-supply store > (does mail order, but the shipping will kill ya) > 5 Gallon Glass Carboy $15.75 > 6.8 Gallon Glass Carboy $17.75 That is about how much St. Pats charges as well. http://www.stpats.com. > Your best bet (if ya live in a large city) is to call around to the > water bottling places and see if they bottle in glass. I did this in > San Antonio and picked up 5 5gal. glass bottles for $8.75 each (about > 4 years ago) We tried this in Austin and couldn't find anyone willing to sell them anymore. Probably because of the growth of home brewers. Reading China outlet in San Marcos sells them for $10 each for the 5 gallons though. -- Phelim "Pug" Gervase | "I want to be called. COTTONTIPS. There is something Barony of Bryn Gwlad | graceful about that lady. A young woman bursting with House Flaming Dog | vigor. She blinked at the sudden light. She writes pug at pug.net | beautiful poems. When ever shall we meet again?" Subject: Re: ANST - Bottles and Brewing Date: Wed, 24 Jun 98 14:15:40 MST From: David Epps <icc_dce at SHSU.edu> To: "'ansteorra at Ansteorra.ORG'" <ansteorra at Ansteorra.ORG> Polydore said something that sounded like "Do any of you have suggestions to simplify the removing of labels from bottles?" A) In reference to the removal labels discussed late last week, A simple tool I use when working with bottles is a piece of 12 ga. Steel approximately 10" on a side with a deep V cut at about 45 degrees into the center of the plate. Place this in a vice or nail it to the side of your work bench, whatever.. next soak your bottles in warm water with a mild soap or other solvent for about an hour. Put the bottle into the "V" and scrape the label off of the bottle (best done outside least the wife will take your head off). A bottle can be cleaned in about 5 seconds, leaving only a little work with a brilo pad. (personally I prefer to keg my ales, it cuts out the bottle cleaning entirely). On the subject of various cleaning solutions I have found that "Beer Line Cleaner" sold in brewing supply houses is great for the removal of any organic or semi-organic matter inside or out of the bottles. I have also "saved" several stainless steel pots and Pyrex using this stuff, it saved days of cleaning up after the last feast we did. Additionally if you must get the label off because it is the nicest bottle you ever owned you can try a solvent we use at the office called "At-Tack" it is a tape and adhesive remover sold through a video supply house. I would use this only in very rare cases and only on the outside of the bottle. Wolf said something that sounded like "how does heat effect the fermentation process and storage for meads ... i lair in a house sans air conditioning that can get brutal in the summer (100+ in.........." B) Fermenting above 72 F is not a very good idea period. (ED. Note... I need to check the chemistry side of this issue for verification and my primary forte is in Ales and Stouts but here goes.) When yeast ferments too fast (ie. real warm (even the warmth loving ale yeast)) it creates what are call fusel oils, a clear, colorless, Poisonous liquid mixture of amyl alcohols, obtained as a by-product of the fermentation of starch-containing and sugar-containing plant materials and used as a solvent....(ie..big time hangover juice.) now realize that any time that you ferment something some fusel will be generated but we want to minimize it's effects, so the lower the temp. the better. It might be that you need to limit you brewing and primary fermentation period to the early spring and late fall or find a friend that you can trust with the liquid gold you produce who has a cellar or spare refrigerator , Bottle or Cask conditioning in warmer temperatures should not cause you as much grief but still not a great idea. In service, Zorcon of Lizard Keep, Ravensfort, Ansteorra Icc_dce at shsu.edu Date: Sat, 12 Sep 1998 16:20:55 EDT From: LrdRas at aol.com Subject: SC - Fermentation locks-OOP allilyn at juno.com writes: << I'd like to have one of those 2 liter coke bottle recipes, as I have lots of those and no fermentation locks. >> Take a balloon and carefully put a pin hole in the end. Put the balloon over the bottle. It will fill with gases as the beverage ferments. Leave until the ballon falls over on its own. Voila! A very usable and disposable fermentation lock. :-) Ras Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 08:33:34 -0400 From: "Nick Sasso" <Njs at mccalla.com> Subject: SC - Link for Teaching Brewing I have a link for information on basic brewing information as well as lots of other stuff like period recipes and some documentation. The Knaves of Grain is an interKingdom brewing association that has gone temporarily dormant (until the next newsletter can go out). We have a website that has all of our past newsletters archived. They cover lots of topics, including an article by THL Ansel the Barrister called "No brain all grain". Good text and method. I have taught from it. Also a good article on Elizabethan beer, IIRC. You'll have to paruse the eight issues to find what you want, but it is good reading. There is a table of contents for each one. http://www.icon-stl.net/~cwbussja/knaves/ niccolo difrancesco Date: Tue, 27 Oct 1998 17:38:24 -0500 From: "Nick Sasso" <Njs at mccalla.com> Subject: SC - Mead and brewing resources You will find the 'Knaves of Grain' website at http://www.icon-stl.net/~cwbussja/knaves/ another source for links is at www.mindspring.com\~grizly there are links, instructions and articles at the Knves site as we are an interkingdom association of brewers, vinters, meadmakers, and cordial makers. Their newsletter will get publishing again quarterly the 1st of November. niccolo difrancesco (editor of The Stumbling Peasants", newsletter to the Knaves of Grain) Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1998 18:16:20 -0500 From: "Nick Sasso" <Njs at mccalla.com> Subject: SC - Beginning brewing kits and equipment source >What does everyone recommend to start brewing? As in a homemade kit or one >offered by a brewery supplier? >What should a kit contain. Also where is a good place to look for recipes? Please pardon the advertisement, but you will find a listing of prices at www.mindspring.com\~brewbuds It is a mailorder company run by SCA people (me and my partner, Lord Jonathan of Exeter). We are just rebounding from some torturous leveraging by large companies to get us out of market, but are fighting back into the marketplace. We may not get it out overnight (usually mailed within 3 to 4 days), but have the best prices in the market that we have found. END ADVERTISEMENT There are suggestions as to what we think you should have under equipment kits in the catalog. niccolo difrancesco (i hate ads too, and it won't happen again soon) Date: Sun, 21 Mar 1999 18:01:12 -0500 From: "Jennifer Conrad" <CONRAD3 at prodigy.net> Subject: SC - Leener's Brew Works The Do It At Home Store For all your home brew, cheese, sausage, mead, and wine making needs http://www.leeners.com/index.htm#storefront Date: Sat, 22 May 1999 12:58:49 -0700 (MST) From: Ben Engelsberg <bengels at chronic.lpl.arizona.edu> Subject: SC - Folk Wines Recently, an excellent book on folk wines and brewing came into my hands, and I thought I would mention it here, for those interested in such things. The book is titled _Folk Wines, Cordials, & Brandies_ It is written by M.A. Jagendorf. It is a compilation of American and European folk wines and other liquors. The recipes and proceedures documented in this book are largely based on late 19th and early 20th century sources, although they coincide very closely with those from more period documents. It is interesting to observe that the household practice of wine and beer making has not changed substantially in quite some time. The book cointains a large number of interesting recipes, as well as excellent commentary by Jagendorf on the drinking, brewing, and the general enjoyment of wine and liquor. The book is (c) 1963, by the Vanguard Press Library of Congress #63-21854 Date: Mon, 30 Aug 1999 10:24:24 -0400 From: Nick Sasso <grizly at mindspring.com> Subject: Re: SC - Books > Brewing: > R. Gayre et al: Brewing Mead Mr. Gayre and Mr. Papazian collaborate to provide both historical-developmental information and practical how to. this has been the most thorough treatment to date of the progression of meads and their names through history. He gives a respectable bibliography as well. There is another book available right now on beer brewing : Bennett, Judith M. (1996). _Ale, Beer and Brewsters in England: A women's work in a changing world, 1300-1600_. Oxford University Press: New York. ISBN 0-19-507390-8 It is a context book that describes the changing roles of village and household brewers through the time period. Ms. Bennett is a scholar of Women's Studies and focuses on this in her book. Very intriguing niccolo difrancesco Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 21:23:09 -0600 From: Magdalena <magdlena at earthlink.net> Subject: Re: SC - Grapes Hauviette wrote: >I was told by the wine specialist that the sugars are converted into a fairly >high alcohol content (14.8) Puck replied: > This seems like a very high alcohol content to me. AFAIK, the only yeasts > that can survive in this intense an alcohol environment are the champagne > yeasts, yet you do not mention this. Is this a lack of knowledge on my > part? Actually, that's not true. My favorite strain of burgundy tops out around 14-15, and I could get it higher if I wanted to for some strange reason. Also, I see no reason to believe that period yeast strains were particularly less alcohol tolerant than modern strains. There is a process called "feeding" your yeast that you can do to get higher levels of alcohol where you add your sugars gradually. As the alcohol level rises, the less tolerant strains die out and the more tolerant beasties live on to breed. Add just enough sugar for the yeast to eat and the alcohol level to go up a trifle, and the more tolerant next generation will breed and the rest die out. (I accidentally took a champagne to 23%, and if I dilute with fruit juice I get sparklies cause the yeast _won't_ die.) To get a more tolerant strain of yeast, just harvest from a current batch that you have fed. Tadgh tells me that an ale yeast can be bred to be about 18% tolerant. One period technique for starting a new batch involves harvesting yeast from a "new" wine or ale. Do that often and you'd have a very tolerant strain going. BTW, is there a period recipe for Roman raisin wine floating around out there? I know a few cooks who'd love me forever... ;> - -Magdalena Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 13:11:02 -0600 From: Pug Bainter <pug at pug.net> Subject: Re: SC - Grapes & Yeast > If I understand Wulfrith correctly, he means that the yeast strains that > can handle such a concentration of alcohol without going dormant and/or > dying are champagne yeast strains that wouldn't have been isolated or > developed until the 17th century. Dom Perignon, etc. Other wine yeasts, > in my experience, anyway, seem to reach a maximum of 12% or so... There are many views on this. Some have been stated by Magdalena. While many yeasts are designed to stop at certain alcohol percentages, hybreds can easily form. This is because of the strong yeast surviving to the end of a batch, and as long as they keep chugging, as they multiply, the yeast will be more alcohol tolerant. The harder thing I've had is to get a yeast that will actually multiple in high sugar environments from the start. From directly personal experience, I regularly have ale yeasts go to 14%, wine to 18% and champagne to 22%. (Most of these batches have been meads and ciders but not many wines.) They could probably go higher than this if I would feed batchs more. I have only recently started doing that so I can end up with more batches that aren't bone dry! I haven't had much experience nor success with actually stopping a batch without running out of sugar. My house has some hybred of ale/champagne yeast that I rather enjoy. I have only done one batch so far with the wild yeast in my house so far, and it was an accident that I rather enjoyed. Btw, don't leave anything that can ferment out in my house for long or it will. This includes whole fruit. - -- Phelim "Pug" Gervase Bryn Gwlad - Ansteorra Dark Horde Moritu Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 22:00:55 -0600 From: Pug Bainter <pug at pug.net> Subject: Re: SC - Grapes & Yeast You wrote: > > My house has some hybred of ale/champagne yeast that I rather enjoy. I > > have only done one batch so far with the wild yeast in my house so far, > > and it was an accident that I rather enjoyed. > That's okay, I have a particular shelf in my apartment which seems to > house penicillium that's perfect for Stilton cheese... Hmmm. Never tried cheese. Been avoiding it with the active brewing. > These increased alcohol contents as reported are simply beyond my > experience, but I'd have to question the math used to arrive at them, > unless you're dealing with completely different yeasts than even modern > authorities are speaking of. I admit that I don't know much about chemistry, but it seems pretty simple with my hydrometer. OG potential alcohol % - FG potential alcohol % = Actual alcohol % Of course adjusted for temperature of the liquid. And yes, I have calibrated my hydrometer to ensure accuracy. > I'm not saying these percentages are off, I > just have to wonder why people like Papazian, Andre Simon, Alexis > Lichine and others all seem to feel such percentages are impossible. Well I have only read parts of Papzian, and from what I've read, it is mostly because he is dealing with non-high fermentable sugar beverages. Since some sugars are not easily fermented, there is still sugar left eventhough the fermentation has stopped. Cider and meads have high levels of fermemtables. (Usually with FG of .994) As well, I don't remember him going out of the realm of what a yeast is typcially used for. Such as an ale yeast being used for mead. (Instead of that nasty wyeast mead yeast that makes it so damn winey!) I admit that my experimentation with different types of yeasts in this manner are limited. I use a specific brand of Ale yeast, Whitbread, for the most part since it gives a good flavor and goes to a high enough alcohol percentage. With it generally not going above 12-14%, that is more than enough alocohol for most things. I try not to use the Pasteur Champagne yeast since it ate upto 22% before finally dieing. - -- Phelim "Pug" Gervase Bryn Gwlad - Ansteorra Dark Horde Moritu Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 09:59:05 -0500 From: Kay Loidolt <mmkl at indy.net> Subject: SC - yet another egg question > From: Magdalena <magdlena at earthlink.net> > I have yet another egg question for y'all. My SO is > doing a repeatability study on the use of eggs as > hydrometers in period brewing. So far he has discovered > that store bought eggs don't repeat results for love of god > or money. (I told him to use fresh eggs... ;> ) My > question is: Will eggs from a commercial setup where the > chickens are fed all sorts of supplements have a different > density than eggs from a free-range chicken, assuming that > both are fresh that day? Also, if Digby says eggs, is it > safe to assume chicken eggs? Johann, poultrier, responds: Yes commercial eggs may vary as much as a 8 hours to 24 hours in age per carton. Usually they are within the 1-2 hour range, but by the time we get them in the market they are already at least 24 hour old. The refrigeration also changes their density, I think?? There is a slight change in density between non-fertilized eggs and fertile ones, and there 'might' be a 'slight' change between commercial feed and natural feed, I don't know, I'll check with the APA. If you want to use eggs as a hydrometer use VERY FRESH eggs (within the day of laying) You will have to find a home operation and buy directly from them. Contact your local Ag.Office or co-op. Johann, poultrier. P.S. It is correct to assume Chicken (Gallius,ie.chicken,or pheasant) Eggs in Digby unless stated otherwise. Waterfowl eggs were used, but were usually called for specifically. From: Robert & Tara Brinsfield <trbrins at fullnet.net> Date: December 15, 2005 9:19:40 AM CST To: ansteorra at ansteorra.org Subject: [Ansteorra] RE: Ansteorra Digest, Vol 31, Issue 19 This morning, as I was reading the ansteorra message board, I came across a gentle who also wished for a brewing kit. As I have heard this same request from many who wish to start brewing, I felt that I should pass on a fantastic site that my husband got his beginner's kit from. It was a really great deal, because it came with everything except the honey, water, fruit, spice, and bottles. You can order the bottles from them as well for a very reasonable price as well. We found it completely by accident when my husband was in need of some beekeeping supplies, as he is a beekeeper. The company is called Dadant & SOns and the entire kit is offered for under $100. Just something I felt that any who wish to brew would like to know about. It is a fantastic beginner's kit that comes with recipes as well. For the kit: http://www.dadant.com/catalog/product_info.php? cPath=79&products_id=633&osCs id=332aad38a0787ca35c844dadc0244418 For the bottles: http://www.dadant.com/catalog/product_info.php? products_id=634&osCsid=332aad 38a0787ca35c844dadc0244418 Something else there, that might be of interest to the brewing community: http://www.dadant.com/catalog/product_info.php? products_id=751&osCsid=332aad 38a0787ca35c844dadc0244418 Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2006 21:38:25 -0800 From: "Nick Sasso" <grizly at mindspring.com> Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Vanilla Extract --Thank you, and some answers. To: "'Cooks within the SCA'" <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org> > As for aging vanilla, the original extraction takes about 10 > days at a slightly elevated temperature (about 105-110 > degrees Fahrenheit). It should then be aged in charred oak > casks, but is generally aged in stainless steel these days > for proper sanitation. <<SNIP>> > The vanilla flavor will mellow out over time, even > without the oak cask, just as your cordials blend with sitting. Home brewers and vintners these days often "cheat" the charred oak aging process by adding sanitized Oak bits to their fermented beverage to age a while. Timing is based on experience and recipe. They are fished out after a while. This might be a fine way to add the tannins or whatever process to the aging process without the barrels. niccolo difrancesco From: geo at mapmuse.com Date: February 24, 2006 5:14:33 PM CST To: ansteorra at ansteorra.org Subject: [Ansteorra] Interactive Maps of Homebrew Clubs, and Supply Shops across the US I wanted to let homebrew enthusiasts know about a website that has interactive mapping of homebrew clubs, and homebrew supply shops across the US. The site is Mapmuse.com, and the link to the Food and Drink Directory is: http://find.mapmuse.com/re1/mmHomeInterestsList.php?cat=Food%20and%20Drink Please check our maps to see if your local homebrew clubs, and supply shops are included. You can add a missing club or supply shop, as well as provide additional descriptive information including both text and photos (there is an ADD feature and an EDIT feature on the site). The intent is for homebrew enthusiasts to improve and develop the maps themselves- we just got it started for you! We believe that through this kind of community effort we can achieve the most comprehensive, descriptive maps possible. We would love if you would participate in the process, by making any changes you see fit to the maps, and passing the word onto fellow homebrewers. Also, we would appreciate a link if you have a homebrew related website! Thanks, Cindy Jett Mapmuse.com 1326 14th Street NW Washington, DC 20005 From: "davidjhughes.tx at netzero.net" <davidjhughes.tx at netzero.net> Date: February 27, 2006 6:00:55 PM CST To: ansteorra at ansteorra.org Subject: Re: [Ansteorra] Cider yeast OT a bit Refr inn draumspaki wrote: Greetings, Since we are on the subject of making stuff and things, I need to know if building anyone insulated box for temperature control. I am trying to make one and would like to see if anyone has done one so I have something to follow other then my gut and pint glass. Fox Go to (home depot, lowes, whatever) and get a sheet of the 1" R5 extruded polysytrene insolation foam ( < $20). Cut to size, duct tape edges inside and out. Done! Now, you can get fancier. Make sure the base is large enough that the uprights sit on it, and the top large enough to sit on the uprights. For an easy access door, cut strips 2" wide, two the height of the uprights and two 2" shorter than the width between the uprights. Tape these on one opening to act as seals that one of the uprights will butt up against, and only tape that door on the outside. The top can be designed to allow th