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bow-making-msg - 1/10/08

 

Making archery bows. Medieval bows.

 

NOTE: See also the files: crossbows-msg, p-archery-msg, quivers-msg, arrows-msg, bowstrings-msg, arch-supplies-msg, arrow-making-FAQ.

 

************************************************************************

NOTICE -

 

This file is a collection of various messages having a common theme that I have collected from my reading of the various computer networks. Some messages date back to 1989, some may be as recent as yesterday.

 

This file is part of a collection of files called Stefan's Florilegium. These files are available on the Internet at: http://www.florilegium.org

 

I have done a limited amount of editing. Messages having to do with separate topics were sometimes split into different files and sometimes extraneous information was removed. For instance, the message IDs were removed to save space and remove clutter.

 

The comments made in these messages are not necessarily my viewpoints. I make no claims as to the accuracy of the information given by the individual authors.

 

Please respect the time and efforts of those who have written these messages. The copyright status of these messages is unclear at this time. If information is published from these messages, please give credit to the originator(s).

 

Thank you,

    Mark S. Harris                  AKA:  THLord Stefan li Rous

                                          Stefan at florilegium.org

************************************************************************

 

TO: Robert Fitzmorgan

FROM: Stormbringer

SUBJECT: Re: Longbows

 

RF-:         Does anyone have information on the

RF-: construction of longbows or

RF-: know where to find it?  Any help would be greatly

RF-: appreciated.  Thanks.

 

You might write and ask Bear Archery (they make the things...or at least

they used to).  There are a few bowyers around still, though the really

good ones have orders stacked up for a few years.

The choice wood is Yew (grows in the Pacific Northwest from what I've

heard).  You need well cured, straight-grained staves to start with.

You need to carve them to just the right shape so that they curve

properly without breaking and don't twist or give too much.  You also

have to get them to move smoothly back to the starting position when you

release them.  Can you say "very tricky"?  I knew you could!

It is not an easy craft to master.  It takes a lot of time, but since

you will have to wait 7 to 10 years for the staves to cure properly you

should have time to practice the carving part... ;^)

It is *much* easier if you are willing to make a laminated bow and use

things like fiberglass.  A Yew self-bow is historically correct and

would make a fine weapon (ask anyone in midieval Europe!) but it is not

easy to make properly and takes a bit of maintenance to keep it in shape

(don't let the wood dry out or get too wet, store it so it doesn't

develop twisted limbs, etc.).

Even if you get the bow made, you still need arrows! Can't buy good

fletching-quality goose feathers anymore.  Everyone sells turkey these

days (or <shudder!> *plastic*.  Horn nocks aren't available commercially

either.  Hardwood shafts?  Ask around at Pensic, but expect to pay over

$100 a dozen...

Good luck!

                         ((( STORMBRINGER )))

 

* Origin: >> The Ophiuchi Hotline << Forward! Into the past! (1:109/508)

 

 

TO: Robert Fitzmorgan

FROM: Par Garou

SUBJECT: Re: Longbows

 

RF>         Does anyone have information on the construction of longbows or

RF> know where to find it?  Any help would be greatly appreciated.  Thanks.

RF>                                         Robert.

 

Greetings Robert.

        I am currently in the process of crafting a bow. The difficulty isn't

in the process, but in the time involved.  I've been working on this bow (a

short bow, measured from fingertips to opposite shoulder) since early April

(not including curing time) and it's still quite rough.  I figure I have about

4-6 months of work left to it.  It is quite a rewarding experience if you have

the patience to allow the tree/bow to become a part of you.  

        There are many ways to craft bows, the best methods (and the easiest)

I've seen can be found in Tom Brown's survival series, specifically

"Wilderness Survival" and "Living with the Earth".  Living with the Earth is

quite good for not only bow craftsmanship but also shelter construction, hide

tanning, etc.  Quite useful series of books for anyone.

        Also, don't be too disappointed if you make a bow and somewhere during

the process it snaps.  It happens and even though it can be disheartening

experience, the best bet is to grab another staff and start again....

 

* Origin: Cat House - What century is this? (703) 525-1731 (1:109/155)

 

 

From: BETHS at ksuvm.ksu.EDU

Date: 20 May 91 20:26:00 GMT

 

Honorable archers may be interested in:

 

McEwen, Edward, Robert L. Miller and Christopher A. Bergman, Early Bow Design a

nd Construction.  Scientific American, June 1991, (264:6) pp. 76-83.

 

Asked to name the most crucial discoveries of early humans, most people would

quickly come up with fire and the wheel.  A third may well be the bow.  It served as the principal weapon for hunting and warfare until the use of firearms be

came widespread in the 16th century.  Bows were developed in virtually all cult

ures, and some achieved high levels of technological sophistication.

 

 

From: haslock at rust.zso.dec.com (Nigel Haslock)

Date: 22 Jul 91 21:09:31 GMT

Organization: DECwest, Digital Equipment Corp., Bellevue WA

 

Ioseph.of.Locksley at f29.n114.z1.fidonet.org (Ioseph of Locksley) said:

 

> The English (Welsh) longbow has two rather glaring characteristics:

 

> 1) it is a "self" bow, i.e. not laminated, but made from one pice of wood,

>    sometimes with the knots left in....

 

> 2) and most important, it is -not- flat on both sides, but rather flat

>    on the inside of the bow, and -rounded- on the outside.....

 

I beg to differ. Since the outer face of the bow is carved to follow a growth

ring, it too is curved. The outer face is the one away from the string. The

inner face, or belly, is where the deeply curved face is.

 

e.g.

                 /--__

                |     -

               |       \

              |         |           0 <-string

               |       /

                |   __-

                 \--

 

Making a bow that included a significant knot would be a bad idea as the knot

constitutes a magor weakness. A yew bow is almost guaranteed to include pins,

i.e. knots a sixteenth of an inch across, because that is the way it grows.

 

        Fiacha

        Aquaterra, AnTir

 

 

From: kuijt at topgun.UUCP (kuijt)

Date: 22 Jul 91 20:33:12 GMT

Organization: Los Alamos Nation Labratory, MEE-10

 

Ioseph of Locksley speaks of the Longbow:

I> The English (Welsh) longbow has two rather glaring characteristics:

I>

I>1) it is a "self" bow, i.e. not laminated, but made from one pice of wood,

I>   sometimes with the knots left in....

 

        This is certainly true... Yew and Elm were favorite woods...

 

I>2) and most important, it is -not- flat on both sides, but rather flat

I>   on the inside of the bow, and -rounded- on the outside.....

 

        I am afraid that you are misinformed.  A "fully stacked" bow is

one that is rounded on the belly of the bow, and flat (not totally flat,

but flat in comparison) on the back of the bow.  The belly of the bow is

the string side, which would seem to me to be what you mean by the

"inside".  All medieval English and Welsh longbows seem to have been

fully stacked bows.  This statement is based upon illustrations (in

which it is not always clear), and the one surviving medieval English

bow that was NOT found in the Mary Rose, and all of the hundred odd bows

that were found in the Mary Rose (sunk 1547).

 

Sir Dafydd ap Gwystl                            kuijt at agps.lanl.gov

Spending the Summer in the Outlandish Mountains, where the Ladies are

fair, kind, and my Countess will demand an accounting of every hand I

kiss when I get back to Atlantia...

 

 

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

From: vader at meryl.csd.uu.se (]ke Eldberg)

Subject: Re: Traditional Archery Tackle (Was: Archery Rankings in Kingdoms?)

Organization: Indiana Jones University

Date: Sat, 2 Oct 1993 19:18:47 GMT

 

William de Corbie greets all.

 

Here are a few bowyers who make traditional English longbows:

 

Don Adams, 17 Granta Tce., Gt Shelford, Cambridge CB2 5DJ

 

Rex Baddeley, Bow Cottage, 19 Cefn Rd., Cefn Cribwr, Mid Glam CF32 0AR

 

John Bennett, 5  Denis Road, Burbage, Hinckley, Leics.

 

Chris Boyton, 32 Frays Close, Money Lane, W.Drayton, Middx. UB7 7PF

 

John Cave, 15+17 Broad Street Ludlow, Shropshire SY8 1NG

 

Hector Cole (arrowsmith), The Mead, Gt Somerford, Chippenham SN15 5JB

 

David Edwards, 9 Hanover Terrace, Whitby, N Yorks. UO21 1QQ

 

Lou Friend, Slindon Post Office, Slindon, Arundel, W Sussex BN18 0RR

 

Dudley Garrett, The Oast, Bellwood Farm, Hurst Green, Etchingham, Sussex

 

Hilary Greenland, 14 Upton Road, Southville, Bristol BS3 1LP

 

Richard Head, 9 Kingsfield Grange Road, Bradford on Avon, Wilts BA15 1BE

 

Stuart Homer, 131 Tennyson Drive, Great Malvern, Worcs WR14 2 UL

 

Roy King, St Nicholas Road, Blackpool, Lancs

 

Edward McEwen, 10 Richmond Way, Wanstead, London E11 3QT

 

Rick O'Ruark, O'Ruark Clan Trust, Main St. Dromahair, Co.Leitrim, Eire

 

(I have more...)

 

William

 

 

From: jct at reed.EDU (Jack Thompson)

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

Subject: bows/arrows

Date: 30 Sep 1993 04:25:46 -0400

 

Hari Heath has been seasoning a stock of yew for a time now; I have a bow

on order from him and it will appear in the fullness of time.  His bows

have a good look and feel.  He hunts with them (using arrows of his own

manufacture) and has put meat on the table thereby.  He also manufactures

a bowyer's vise for those who like to roll their own.  His address is:

 

Hari Heath

Box 126

Santa, ID  83866

 

I don't know what he charges for arrows; I make my own, so the question

never came up.

 

Another source (who's work I have not seen) is:

 

Robert Parks

Bitterroot Bows and Replication

Rt. 1, Box 138

Troy, ID  83871

 

On his card, he indicates that he provides "Custom sinew backed bows;

spine matched indian/asian style arrows; flintknapping; authentic replica

equipment."

 

I make my arrows from Western Red Cedar; from the leftovers after

splitting out 10 foot-long shakes.  The debris makes awfully good fire

starter.

 

Jack C. Thompson

who has to decide whether or not the charcoal from the fire pit goes to

the outhouse or the forge; 'course, when the mosquitoes/flies are not

buzzing about, there's no question.

 

 

From: jcaldwll at oregon.uoregon.edu (Jim Caldwell)

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

Subject: More Trad Archery Stuff

Date: 7 Oct 1993 00:00:14 GMT

Organization: UOregon

 

In response to Galen Woodwalker:

>In any case, *where* did you get your longbows?

 

I was lucky in that my lady (now my wife) had found a yew bow at a garage

sale (!) with a broken nock. In order to repair it, she and her best friend

tracked down a local bowyer by following hints and rumours they picked up

at a bow shop.  Later she built a bow (lemonwood (dagame -sp?- outside

U.S.)) with some instruction from the bowyer.  I therefore had both her

experience and the bowyers wisdom to draw from when I built my bow (yew).

Since then we have also built an ash bow (I don't recommend this wood as a

result) and re-worked 4 bows we picked up used at various places.  I _do

not_ consider myself an expert by any means, but perhaps I've learned

enough to be of help.  We are not interested at this time in making bows

for people, however, as mundane time limitations (me) and harp-making (my

wife) get in the way.

 

While looking for bow-making materials in magazines (our bowyer no longer

carries staves or billets), I recently found a magazine I hadn't seen

before called _Traditional Bowhunter_ that seems to have tons of ads for

finished equipment and even some bow-making supplies!  See if you can order

an issue from a good magazine stand or bookseller if it's not easily

available in your area.  Info is: _Traditional Bowhunter Magazine_, P.O.

Box 15583, Boise ID 83715, Ph (208) 888-4710 after 6 pm MST.  I couldn't

find an ISBN # in it.

 

Galen writes:

 

>should this pressure to get traditional equipment be made part of an archery

>ranking or awards system?

 

I certainly agree not.  If an area gets to the point were a large number of

people have traditional equipment, set up a seperate catagory if you feel

the need, but don't regulate people out of playing.  IMO I consider ranking

systems unnecessary, but that's neither here nor there. I'm a poor archer

and know it, but rankings could someday be used to prevent entry into

competitions and therefore take some of the fun away for us perpetual low

score dwellers.

 

The 'Traditional Bowyer's Bible' that Galen mentioned is a great book that

I need to get for my own library, and should be a welcome addition to any

Baronial/Shire libraries out there.

 

Thanks for listening, Jehan

 

 

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

From: John, R., Edgerton <sirjon at waffle.sns.com>

Subject: Re: Archery info needed!!

Keywords: archery, bows,arrows

Organization: Systems'n'Software, Fremont, CA  94539-6669

Date: Sun, 20 Feb 94 20:03:03 PST

 

ni-ten at wship.nullnet.fi (Esa Kivel{) writes:

> Unto all gentles does Lord Kimura no Esashi, Kinght-Marshal of

> Aarnimetsa does greetings.

>

> Well we have some memberes in our shie here who are interested in

> archery. Where we get some info how to build bows and arrows etc? All

> info are welcomed.

>

> If somebody knows something about it, he/she can also send private email

> to me, thank you.

>

> Lord Kimura no Esashi

> ni-ten at wship.nullnet.fi

>

> Esa Kivela

> Kaskitie 6

> 04400 Jarvenpaa

> FINLAND

 

        There are two excellent books currently in print that

would be a good reference to the begining bowyer.  They are:

Tfhe traditional Bowyer's Bible vol. 1 and vol.2.  They can be

ordered through Bois dArc Press. (817) 237-0829.  Or you might

find some of the larger book stores and through a book search

through your local libary.  I would also reconmend the FAQs on

the Alt.Archery board here on Internet.

        There are two good magizines on the stands that would

be of help too. The Traditional Bowhunter which has a few articles

on bow making (208)888-4710.  The other is the Primitive Archer,

this is the better of the two for the bowyer interested in making

their own self(all wood) bows or arrows. (409)632-8746.

 

        Good luck with your bow making

 

Sir Jon Fitz-Rauf               John R. Edgerton

Esfenn,Mists,West               Newark, California

 

sirjon at waffle.sns.com  (John, R., Edgerton)

Systems'n'Software

Free Public Access Internet BBS

(510)623-8652

 

 

From: jab2 at stl.stc.co.uk (Jennifer Ann Bray)

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

Subject: Re: Bow making

Date: 18 Apr 94 11:37:31

Organization: STC Technology Ltd., London Road, Harlow, UK.

 

>I am trying to make a working bow and not having much luck. For the moment I'm

>trying the standard longbow but am open to the Meare Heath flat bow. I'm in

>school so not much money for materials (there is a place in TX that sells  

>billets for bows but they start at $60.00. If I can even make one out of

>rattan, I will sacrifice my glaive.

 

Do you have access to any supplies of wood at all? My boyfriend made a

boughstave bow from hazel, it wasn't the best bow in the world, but it

was shootable and quite fun to make. Where I live the trees in the

hedgerows and parks get trimmed fairly regularly, and sometimes whole

branches are hacked off, the gardeners are overjoyed when someone

wants to take away one of the branches because it's less for them to

move. Also every time there's a gale it's possible to get large

branches that have fallen off trees.

 

for bough stave bows, green wood is easier to work and O.K. to use, so

you don't need to spend ages seasoning as you wood for a heartwood

stave.

 

Many hardwoods will work as bow wood, the boughs tend to be more

springy than the trunk, so after a while your bow will start to follow

the string, i.e. it will become permanently curved and will be weaker.

The good news is that this is offset by the fact that the bow gets

stronger as the wood seasons, so if you don't leave the bow strung for

a long time you should end up with something as strong as when you

started or better.

 

I'm a great fan of bough stave bows, they are good for a beginning

bowyer as you don't have to risk wasting expensive sapwood. They are

also an authentic medieval bow that isn't seen a lot today. I've got a

little booklet on them with details of how to make them which is

published by an archeological trust, it only costs about $3 email me

if you want any more details, and I can post you a summary of what's

involved in making one.

 

Jennifer/Rannveik

Vanaheim Vikings

 

 

From: jimle at autodesk.com (Jim Lester)

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

Subject: Re: Bow making

Date: 18 Apr 1994 20:33:44 GMT

Organization: Autodesk, Inc.

 

jab2 at stl.stc.co.uk (Jennifer Ann Bray) writes:

>I am trying to make a working bow and not having much luck. For the moment I'm

>trying the standard longbow but am open to the Meare Heath flat bow. I'm in school

>so not much money for materials (there is a place in TX that sells billets for bows

>but they

>start at $60.00. If I can even make one out of rattan, I will

>sacrifice my glaive.

 

Try rattan ( but don't sacrifice your glaive a 6ft length should only cost ~$12

).  I read an article in Primitive Archer that said that rattan was a pretty

good bow wood: Easy to work With, and Shoots fairly fast. If you want I can

dig up the article and get the contact person or any details that you want.

Also Bittercreek Bow Works ( Is this the place that you are talking about )

will sell practice staves for $10,  these are smaller than the good staves, but

most of them will produce usable bows ( I have two practice staves and a good

stave sitting on my back porch waiting for my drawknife an spokeshave ).

 

BTW  I have often thought about making a rattan bow backed with duct tape for

     use in light-fighting ;-)

 

Chrodegang der Zaunschlager

Caldarium, Mists, West

 

 

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

From: n9010999 at honeydew.cc.wwu.edu (David Balbirona)

Subject: Re: Bow making

Organization: Western Washington University

Date: Tue, 19 Apr 1994 22:26:09 GMT

 

Greetings to all who read this missive,

 

The construction of period bows can be made from a variety of modern woods

at a great deal less than most people would guess.  An excellent book on

the topic is "The Traditional Bowyer's Bible". I would highly recommend

it to any and all gentles who have an interest in the construction of

bows.  The book covers all aspects of the construction from searching for

the right tree to making arrows for the bow.

 

One suprising thing you might find is that extremely good quality bows can

be made using kiln-dried lumber from the hardware store. That makes the

price of learning go down dramatically since the beginning bowyer will

typically break his or her first few bows.  It becomes easy to understand

that one might learn a great deal more from the construction process of

several bows (made inexpensively) than worrying continually in hopes that

one of the last few passes of the draw knife over your $60+ yew stave is

going to cause it to self destruct the first time it is fully drawn.

 

There is also a surprising number of wood species that make wonderful bow

woods.  In addition to yew, osage orange, and lemon wood, here is a brief

list of some other acceptible bow woods:

      elm, ash, oak, birch, hickory, black locust,walnut,cedar,juniper,

      mulberry, maple( hard rock or sugar(same thing)),vine maple (often

      called the new yew), purpleheart, goncalo alves.

Some of these are hard woods and some are white woods. Bear in mind that

the properties of some of the woods make them naturally suitable to either

english longbow or flatbow (another period style bow). Basically that

means that you should know what type of bow you want to make and then pick

a wood suitable to the bow type you want to make.

 

Another good source of information is a magazine called "The Primitive

Archer".  This is published quarterly and worth its weight in bowstaves.

 

I hope this has been of some  help to those interested in the art and

science of Bowyering.

 

--Yeoman Alisdair MacEwan

Kingdom Protector of AnTir (light combat champion)

David Balbirona

n9010999 at henson.cc.wwu.edu

 

 

From: jab2 at stl.stc.co.uk (Jennifer Ann Bray)

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

Subject: Re: Bow making

Date: 21 Apr 94 15:10:14

Organization: STC Technology Ltd., London Road, Harlow, UK.

 

>Would you be so kind as to post the source of your booklet.  

>I would like to obtain one of these.  My thanks.

 

The title of the booklet is "MAKING THE BOUGHSTAVE LONGBOW" by Don

Adams

 

The front page gives the following information:

**********************************************

Published 1988 by Friends of Lincoln

Archaeological research and Excavation

Sessions House

Lindum Road

Lincoln LN2 1PB

 

ISBN 0 946853 05 3

 

copyright Don Adams 1988

**********************************************

The address given is in the U.K. so it may be difficult for people in

the U.S.A. to obtain.

 

If anyone really wants a copy and can't get one where they are send

me some private email and I'll see about doing a swap for a U.S.

magazine or something else that's easy to get there and awkward to get

here.

 

Jennifer/Rannveik

Vanaheim Vikings

 

 

From: jearley at aol.com (J EARLEY)

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

Subject: Re: Yew Bows (was Re: Composite Bows (was Water Buffalo Horn))

Date: 23 Nov 1994 19:40:12 -0500

 

millsbn at mcmail.cis.mcmaster.ca (Bruce Mills) writes:

 

Yew is an extremely slow growing tree, and the yews in front of your house

are probably ornimental yews.  Pacific yew works just fine for bows.  In

the Middle ages, they liked yew from spain and italy.  Yew is sometimes

available as a by product in logging, but has become difficult to obtain

because of its use in cancer treatment has made the bark valuable, and

over harvesting has occurred.  It is a fairly substantial tree when old.

James Greyhelm

 

 

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

From: maclure at eos.arc.nasa.gov (IanMaclure)

Subject: Re: Composite Bows (was Water Buffalo Horn)

Organization: NASA Ames Research Center

Date: Thu, 24 Nov 1994 00:12:43 GMT

 

jearley at aol.com (J EARLEY) writes:

 

> SPADGET at ssf4.jsc.nasa.GOV (Padget, Scott) writes:

 

>Well, he asks about substitutes for water buffalo horn. There is a bow

>maker in Berkeley names Tim, not in the SCA, who makes recurve sinew, horn

>and wood composites.  He is a master worker. ( I have a yew long bow from

>him.) He would know if there was anything that would work. James Greyhelm

 

That would be Tim Baker.

 

He is recognized as an authority on the design and construction of traditional

bows of the North American persuasion and probably knows a good deal about

ancient archery worldwide. I took a class from him one weekend at the range

in Pacifica.

About a year ago, he was at the "Maya" shoot in Roseville with a

gentleman from Bosnia who had constructed a Turkish style composite bow.

As luck would have it an unrecontructed Turk ( in period ) happened to

wander by and shot the bow as it would have been done in period.

Most interesting.

The price I heard being discussed was around $800 for the bow.

 

IBM

--

################ No Times Like The Maritimes, Eh! ######################

# IBM   aka      #    Ian_Maclure at QMGATE.arc.nasa.gov           (desk) #

# Ian B MacLure  #    maclure at (remulak/eos).arc.nasa.gov   (currently) #

########## Opinions expressed here are mine, mine, mine. ###############

 

 

From: jearley at aol.com (J EARLEY)

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

Subject: Re: Composite Bows (was Water Buffalo Horn)

Date: 24 Nov 1994 15:05:10 -0500

 

maclure at eos.arc.nasa.gov (IanMaclure) writes:

 

'Tim would be Tim Baker'  Yeah, that is the guy.  He is an amazing bowyer.

I watched him make a bow for my daughter from an untrimed stave in 20

minutes!  It was a good bow, too.  Tim was working on turkish bows about

four years ago when I moved from Berkeley.  I haven't seen him since.

James

 

 

From: IMC at vax2.utulsa.edu (I. Marc Carlson)

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

Subject: re: Osage Orange for Bows

Date: 29 May 1995 17:43:09 -0500

Organization: UTexas Mail-to-News Gateway

 

>From: "-Otto,M.R." <motto at usgp4.ih.att.com>

>I am putting out the word to all serious bowyers.

>I have in my new backyard a very large, very old, and dying Osage Orange

>tree.  I have heard that wood of this type is highly prized for bow making.

>I am interested in assuring that the wood, if usable for bows, is not

>wasted.  Thus, I am seeking contact with SERIOUS bowyers who have the means

>for harvesting the tree for the wood.  Please respond via email.  Thank you.

 

Greetings, Madam.  I appreciate that you asked to be replied to via

e-mail, but then again although I have worked with Bois d'Arc (aka

Osage Orage) I'm not what you would ever call a SERIOUS bowyer :)

 

Since the few serious bowyers I *do* know of don't have email access,

I will pass the word onto them and get back to you.  I wish you luck

on your response.  If I may suggest, though, should no one get in touch

with you, when you cut the tree down seal the ends of the logs.  As it

dries, Bois d'Arc tends to "fray" very badly, and simply smearing

some glue on each end and letting it dry can slow this down until

you can find someone to take the log(s) off your hands.

 

"Mihi Satis Apparet Propter     Diarmuit Ui Dhuinn

  Se Ipsum Appetenda Sapientia"    University of Northkeep

-- St. Dunstan                  Northkeepshire, Ansteorra

                        (I. Marc Carlson/IMC at vax2.utulsa.edu)

 

 

From: kay at unx.dec.com (Paul Kay)

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca,rec.games.frp.misc,alt.magnus.and.ketil

Subject: Re: The Making of a Longbow

Date: 7 Jun 1995 20:47:42 GMT

Organization: UNIX Software Group, Digital Equipment Corp.

 

djheydt at uclink.berkeley.edu (Dorothy J Heydt) writes:

> [Hal posting from Dorothy's account....]

> In article <KETIL.95May21051505 at jotun.vestnett.no>,

> Ketil Z <ketil at vestnett.no> wrote:

> >

> >I've always wanted to make a longbow, if only to see if it really

> >*can* penetrate armor, and I think I might get hold of some nice

> >and straight six feet of yew - all I need is the recipe.

>

> It's a bit more complex than *that*.  Find any decent archery

> book (especially if written before about 1950) and it'll have

> full directions for making longbows.

 

I gotta second Hal here.  I had a book from the Michigan State Library on

the history and making of Engish bows (and arrows).  It was publishe early

this century.  I remember this because the book had the impreture of the

Michigan Agriculture College Library.  I am not sure it is still in the

stacks, it wasn't in the last catalogue search I did. They probably moved

it to the rare book section.

 

(NB: Micigan State University went from Micigan Agricultural College to

Micigan State College in the 20's or 30's).

 

It is a good book, written by a boyer.  It goes into detais of woods, tools

and finishes used for a modern longbow.  It includes a digression into his

making a balista as an apprentice and the making of cedar and oak arrows.

 

As well as the making of "modern" bows, he claimed that the modern bows have

a different limb.  Before about 250 years ago, the limb had a uniform D

cross-section that led in a straight taper from the grip to the limb tip,

as opposed to the modern style that has a sharp taper near the grip and

then a gradual taper to the  limb tips.  He also claimed that the

inovation of limb shape added cast to the bow so that a modern 80 pounder

had the cast of an old style 100 pound bow.

 

Sorry to be so vague.  I guess I always thought I'd be in college back when

I read the book.  If any one knows of this book, please let me know.  (Gavin

Kilkenny heard a mundane friend and I discussing this book and offered my

friend money if he could find his uncle's copy.  I did, too. :-))

 

On the otherhand, I am not sure how much good Toxophilia would do, but is is

in many rare book collections. :*)

 

      Bart the Bewildered

      Carillion, East

--

      Paul Kay                       kay at unx.dec.com

      Digital Equipment Corporation            sysv::kay

      Manalapan, NJ (UNX)              (908) 577-6076 (DTN 462)

 

 

From: gdwgames at aol.com (GDW GAMES)

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca,rec.games.frp.misc,alt.magnus.and.ketil

Subject: Re: The Making of a Longbow

Date: 11 Jun 1995 12:31:07 -0400

 

Robert Hardy's book "The Longbow" contains a chapter on how to select

woods, what tools are needed, and how to go about making a more or less

traditional English longbow. The latest edition contains a chapter on the

bows recovered from the wreck of the Mary Rose.

 

 

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

From: DDFr at Midway.UChicago.edu (David Friedman)

Subject: Re: Crossbows and a Question

Organization: University of Chicago Law School

Date: Mon, 26 Jun 1995 05:24:20 GMT

 

> b:  What sort of glue may be used that is flexible enough to use for

> compound bows?

>

> "Mihi Satis Apparet Propter     Diarmuit Ui Dhuinn

 

My memory of the literature on hand bows of the same general construction

is that they used a fish glue. You might check Paterson and Lathem's

translation of Taybugha (I think it is called _Mameluke Archery_ but I

might be misremembering).

--

david/Cariadoc

DDFr at Midway.UChicago.Edu

 

 

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

From: eadengle at jeeves.uwaterloo.ca (Edmund "Cynwrig" Dengler)

Subject: Re: Crossbows and a question

Organization: University of Waterloo

Date: Tue, 27 Jun 1995 20:41:46 GMT

 

I am 90 percent certain that Yumi uses modern glues in the manufacture of

his longbows, however I wouldn't be too surprised to find out that he

knew of sources for hide glue or fish glue.  As an archery marshal, I

would recommend you use a modern equivalent if you are going to shoot the

weapon regularly as opposed to having it as a display piece.  The problem

with the period glues is that they were hydroscopic, they absorb water

easily and weaken.  So especially in the case of a crossbow which is

under constant tension, the glue may fail after a time. If you do go

with the period glue on a laminated limb, you might want to wrap it in

leather or sinew in case it does give way.  

Remember, bow failure was also quite period.

 

Rufus of Stamford

(posted through Ed Dengler)

 

 

From: derek.broughton at onlinesys.com (DEREK BROUGHTON)

Newsgroups: rec.org.sca

Subject: re: Crossbows and a question

Date: Sat, 01 Jul 95 10:38:00 -300

Organization: Online Systems Of Canada

 

imc at vax2.utulsa.edu (i. marc carlson) wrote:

 

IM>A fish glue, eh?  Ah well, more delightful aromas with which to entice

IM>the neighborhood.  Can you (or anyone) suggest a source for such a

IM>thing, as I would prefer to try it and see what it's supposed to do

IM>before I try and make it myself.  Barring that, have you (or anyone

IM>else) a source for a decent Hide glue?

 

   Lee Valley Tools                Phone: (613)596-0350

   P.O. Box 6295, Station J               (800)668-1807

   Ottawa, ON, Canada                Fax: (800)267-8767

   K2A 1T4

 

Sells Hide glue, I don't know about fish glues.  I don't know if

the 800 numbers will work from the states.  They have absolutely