Hounds-p-SCA-art
- 7/31/16
"Hounds
in Period & in the Society" by THL Allesandra Grimani.
NOTE:
See also the files: dogs-msg, dogs-lnks, Dog-Barding-art,
medieval-dogs-art, Guinefort-art, hounds-lnks, pets-msg.
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NOTICE -
This article was added to this
set of files, called Stefan's Florilegium,
with the permission of the author.
These files are available on the
Internet at: http://www.florilegium.org
Copyright to the contents of this
file remains with the author or translator.
While the author will likely
give permission for this work to be reprinted in SCA type publications, please
check with the author first or check for any permissions granted at the end of
this file.
Thank you,
Mark S. Harris...AKA:..Stefan li
Rous
stefan at florilegium.org
************************************************************************
Hounds in Period & in
the Society
by THL Allesandra Grimani.
"Qui me amat, amet et canem meum." ("Love me, love my dog. ")
--- St. Bernard, A.D. 1150, "Sermo
Primus"
Do you have a dog? Would you like to involve it in the SCA? In this class, I’ll explain how to you
can bring your dog with you to events and involve it in a way that will be fun
and safe for you, your dog, and for the other event participants! But first, let’s go over a little
history…
How Dogs Were Used, or, Where did all those
breeds come from?
Dogs were used for just about everything. Some of the various uses were
hunting, war, guarding, herding sheep, pulling loads as draft animals,
companions of ladies, killing vermin, fighting other animals, and even turning
spits of meat in the kitchens!
Because no one type of dog could do all these jobs, people began
breeding specifically for the characteristics they wanted. You could (and still can!) often tell
what a dog was used for by the way it looked and acted. Here are some examples of breed types
and what they were used for: (You
might notice that I mention some breeds that are not period. These are listed
as examples of "type" only.)
--Dogs
who hunted by sight (Greyhounds, Deerhounds, Salukis, Whippets, etc.) were
streamlined with long legs, deep chests for extra lung capacity, and flexible
loins to get the extra flex needed for their extended running gait. These dogs were used for such prey as
rabbits, deer, or other fast moving prey.
They were sometimes used to chase the game until it was tired out, then
heavier dogs such as mastiffs were brought in to kill the animal.
--Dogs
who trailed game by scent (Bloodhounds, Bassets, Beagles, Foxhound, etc.)
acquired more sensitive noses and were often built close to the ground. Their dangling ears and loose skin help
catch and channel scent to their noses.
Breeds like the Bloodhound are legendary even today for their amazing
tracking ability. Dogs such as
these could trail prey over varied terrain for miles, and sometimes days.
--Retrieving
breeds were developed to do just that: retrieve (usually ducks, pheasants,
etc.). The ones who retrieved from
the water (Poodles, Labradors, Chesapeake Bay Retrievers, etc.) had heavy,
water-repellant coats, and sometimes even had webbed feet. The silly haircut the Poodles endure
today for dog shows actually has its roots in a much more practical reason: it
was supposed to keep their chest and joints warm during icy water
retrievals. Other breeds
specialized in retrieving on land.
Some breeds were at home either in the water or on land, depending on
their owners needs.
--Terriers
(Irish, Cairn, Jack Russell, etc.) were developed to hunt vermin both above,
and most especially, below ground.
They tended to be smaller, with strong tails (so the owner could pull
them out of a burrow if they became stuck) and scrappy personalities! They were used to kill mice, rats,
gophers, and other troublesome critters.
Some of their prey could put up quite a fight, which is why terriers
were bred to have practically no fear!
Many terriers today still retain their fierce hunting drive and fiesty
attitude.
--Mastiff
types (Great Danes, Bullmastiffs, Rottweilers, etc.) were used for guarding
and, of course, War! The ones used
for war tended to be ferocious. In
fact, it wasn’t until recent times that breeds used in war were made to be the
calm, loving companions we know today.
They had to be vicious in order to get their jobs done, especially if
they were used in war. Some
mastiffs wore armor and were used to disembowel horses, attack the enemy’s
soldiers, and even carry flame pots on their backs or heads to catch the
horse’s caparisons (what most people thing of as barding) on fire! The mastiff breeds who guarded estates,
while still having the capability of bringing down an intruder, were much more
tractable and were extremely loyal to their owners. They often watched over estates, particular people, or
families.
--Herding
dogs were bred by shepherds for intelligence, weather-resistant coats, good
eyesight, and for dogs who could be trusted to watch the flock or herd on their
own. They came in many sizes and
looks depending on what they herded.
Some were big and long legged like Collies who sometimes watched the
flocks by themselves for weeks and had to be able to face down wolves; others
were short enough to be under a cow’s kick like the Corgi; still others (like
the Komondor and Puli) used coloring and size similar to the sheep they guarded
to "hide" from the predators in order to get the jump on them.
--The
companion dogs of today were often working dogs in the Middle Ages, and some
were larger than they are now. Pomeranians, for example, were bred down from
larger spitz-type dogs used for hunting.
Companion dogs were small with happy, easy-going attitudes. They were often hidden in sleeves to
keep the hands warm, and were used as bed warmers; in fact, some speculate that
this was the original meaning for the saying, "Three dog night." The tiny Maltese may have always been a
companion dog, one of which we know to have been owned as such by the Roman
Governor of Malta. A breed which
originated in Egypt and became popular in the Italian Renaissance was my
personal favorite, the Italian Greyhound.
While they were mostly used as companions, there is also speculation
that they were sometimes used to hunt.
There is even some evidence that they were used in packs to hunt wharf
rats!
--Some
breeds were a combination of "types" because of their job
requirements. For example, breeds
like the Irish and Russian Wolfhounds had to be both swift and strong to bring
down their prey. Dachshunds are
another good example: since they were bred to go after badgers underground,
they had to be low slung to get into the burrows, but also feisty and have a
strong bite for when they found their quarry! Newfoundlands were used as both draft animals and water
retrievers, so they were large, strong animals with thick, water-repellant
coats and a placid temperament.
The two most common dogs used in Heraldry were
the Greyhound and the Talbot.
There seems to be some confusion over the difference between the Talbot
and another breed called the Alaunt (or Alant/Aland). In some texts the two names are used interchangeably, while
others call talbots loyal and trustworthy, and the alaunt vicious and
unpredictable. One writer from
1615 writes, "The Milk Whyte (hound) which is the true talbot do most
delight in blood and have a natural inclination to hunt dry foot." Another writer states, "the Alaunt
was fleet enough to hold down a wounded deer, brave enough to hold a wild boar
and easily able to dispatch a wolf and also a fierce guard." From my own research, my opinion is
that while the two breeds were large and looked similar (and quite probably
were related), the talbots are usually depicted as a white dog, having long,
droopy ears and a face like a Bloodhound.
They are more often referred to as being loyal, and good hunters. Alaunts seem to have been more used for
killing boar and similar creatures, and are often depicted as having cropped
ears, heavy collars, and are often wearing muzzles. Heraldry Unlimited describes an "Aland" as a
mastiff with short ears. I once
found a reference which stated that alaunts were so savage that the only time
their muzzles were taken off was to feed them or when they were actively hunting. So I believe them to have been related,
but separate breeds...though this is only my opinion.
Humankind has dressed dogs in many different
ways. The most common item, of
course, was the collar. The
earliest collars were usually leather or iron, and were often fairly simple
affairs only used when a dog needed to be restrained or needed protection from
its prey. As time went on, the
rich began to embellish the collars, sometimes extravagantly. Leeds Castle in England has what I
believe to be the largest collection of medieval collars in the world. Some period examples from their
collection include one from Italy, circa 1600, which is made of brass, pierced
and chased with acanthus trellis-work and with a cartouche engraved with a
shield (the family is unknown).
Another much different collar is an example from 15th century Germany,
which is composed of eight "W" links terminating in spikes. A similar one, also from the same time
period and country, is made of stirrup-shaped links, each set with a
spike. This one is lined with
leather. The famous Unicorn
tapestries show greyhounds wearing decorative collars made of dyed leather with
metal mounts and locks.
During war times, some dogs wore armor, just
like their owners! Most dog armor
seems to have covered just the chest and back, and occasionally the neck. From what we can tell, both leather and
metal was used. The dogs would
also often wear the spiked collars (as mentioned above) for protection and to
possibly injure the person or animal it was attacking.
First things first, check the event
announcement. Most event articles
will state whether pets are allowed on site, and if they are, what restrictions
there will be. If there is nothing
either way, contact the autocrat and make sure. The last thing you need is to drive 5 hours only to find out
that you can’t bring your dog on site!
At that point, your options are to find a local boarding kennel or bring
your dog home. Neither is very
enjoyable or cheap! Now, let’s say
the write-up says pets are allowed.
What will you need to bring to make your stay fun and safe for you, your
dog, and those around you? That
depends on what kind of event you’ll be attending. For a day-long event, you might not need all of the items
listed, but for camping events, you’ll want to try to cover any
contingency. The basics are:
Collar and
leash: Make sure the collar
has up-to-date info on the ID tag, in case your pet escapes! Below is an example of what I put on my
dogs’ tags:
There’s enough
information on the tags to help anyone who finds them to get in touch with me,
whether it’s a mundane, SCA, or retail situation (I often have a booth set up
at SCA events and renaissance faires).
If your cell phone number is listed on the tag, make sure to keep your
phone with you. It’s also a good
idea to bring some extra leashes and an extra collar, just in case.
Food, water,
bowls: Bringing food and
water from home lessens the chance that the local food/water will upset your
dog’s stomach. Especially at a hot
event, it’s a good idea to carry a water bottle and bowl for him too, and offer
water frequently. The most common
vet emergency at events is heat exhaustion, which can be life threatening! A good way to keep your dog from
overheating in a dry climate is to drape a wet/damp cloth over him. In fact, it works so well that special
terry cloth coats, called cool-coats, are made and marketed for just this
purpose! The cloth/cool-coat
creates a swamp cooler-like effect, which keeps him enviably cool! In a more humid climate, spraying cool
(not cold!) water on his belly, armpits, inner thighs, and head works well too.
Crate: Properly used, a crate gives your dog somewhere
it can go to "get away from it all" and feel safe. SCA events, while exciting and fun for
us, can be a source of stress to your dog. Ever feel like you’ve had enough for a while, and head back
to camp to take a nap? Your dog
needs the same sort of hidey hole to run to. Crating your dog also pretty much ensures that he won’t
escape (many dogs learn almost immediately how to unzip a tent!) and helps keep
him from being harmed by stray dogs and wild animals. **Make sure you put the crate in a shady area on hot days,
and in a heated area on cold ones.**
Don’t leave your dog unattended for long periods of time, even when he’s
safely in a crate! Shade moves,
which can leave your dog in the hot sun, children can poke fingers into the
crate and get bitten (or let your dog out!), your dog can run out of water and
dehydrate...you get the idea. I
personally like to use wire crates while traveling because they afford good air
flow during the heat of the day and can be covered with a blanket or two to
trap heat when it gets cold at night.
(NOTE: Make sure your dog is happy to be in a crate before going to an event!
A crate should be a dog’s "down time" place, not one that
makes him feel trapped! There are
many resources, especially online, which can help you train your dog to happily
rest in a crate. I’m also happy to
help with this sort of training!
If your dog adamantly refuses to be crated, then you need to take
responsibility for his comfort. If
that means going back to camp because he’s too hot/cold and you’re not done
socializing or have responsibilities that preclude it, then you should either
leave your dog home or pre-arrange for someone you and your dog trusts to take
care of him until you’re able to again.
Remember, if you bring a dog to an
event, his welfare is ultimately YOUR responsibility!
Pooper scoopers!: Something to pick up your dog’s
"messes" IS NOT OPTIONAL!
One of the biggest complaints from site owners (and other participants!)
is fecal matter underfoot. The
easiest thing to bring for this is a bunch of plastic baggies (sandwich or
bread bags work well). Just turn
the baggie inside out, pick up the poop, then turn it right side out again; the
poop is scooped, and you didn’t even have to touch it! (Be sure to properly dispose of the
baggie afterwards!)
Some extras you might want to bring:
Exercise Pen: Also called an x-pen. These are available at places like PetSmart or through most
pet supply stores or catalogs.
They are available in several different materials and many different
sizes. X-pens are basically
movable fences, which are handy for giving your dog a fenced-in
"yard" to run in, so he doesn’t have to be always in his crate or on
a leash. A couple of things to
consider adding to your x-pen is a top and stakes to hold the edges down. A large (or just very determined dog!)
can knock over an x-pen or jump out without a top or stakes. Also, as with the crate, make sure your
dog has shade and isn’t left alone in his x-pen for long periods (especially if
you haven’t used one before, and don’t know whether he can escape it!). A tarp draped tightly over the pen can
both provide shade where there is none naturally and help keep him from getting
out.
Tabard: I know this may sound kind of silly to
some of you, but not only does a tabard for your dog look good, (just think how
impressive you’ll look while processing to the battlefield or even just down
merchant’s row!) but if you decorate it with your device or symbol, it also
helps identify him if he gets away.
Plus, if it’s made of a terrycloth type material that’s been wet with
cool water, his tabard can also double as a cool-coat! Just make sure that you use common
sense when having your dog wear a coat of any sort. If it’s not a wet terrycloth cool-coat, make sure it’s not
too hot for your dog to have that extra layer on. If it’s starting to get cool, make sure he’s not still
wearing the cool-coat. I like to
have two coats for each of my dogs: a cool-coat and a warm coat.
Sweaters/extra
blankets: A general rule of thumb
is if YOU are cold, your dog is too!
Some northern breeds, like Huskies, may be perfectly happy without any
extra protection, but most dogs will thank you! While you’re out camp-hopping, check on your dog frequently
to make sure he’s warm enough.
Consider putting a sweater on him if it gets cool. Also adding an extra blanket inside the
crate and another over the top helps to trap warm air in the crate. Make sure when draping the crate to
allow for plenty of fresh air!
First Aid kit: There are many good resources on the
internet as to what to include in your dog’s First Aid kit. While it should include the usual First
Aid items like bandages, you’ll need to change/add a few things to make it
"dog ready." Make sure
you have any medications your dog regularly needs, including heartworm
meds. Talk to your vet about what
pain killers to include. Common
pain killers like Tylenol, ibuprofen and naproxin are harmful to dogs and fatal
to cats! Also, check to make sure
what doses are right for your dog and each med’s expiration, BEFORE leaving the
house. Tape this information onto
the inside lid of the kit. Then,
if anything happens, you won’t be frantically trying to remember how much to
give him!
You’ll also want to make sure your dog is
up-to-date on all legally required vaccinations as well. This will help you avoid possible
problems down the road, in case (heaven forbid!) your dog bites someone, or if
you will be in an area where your dog will be at risk for insect-transmitted
diseases like Lyme disease and heartworms. Make sure to bring a copy of your vet records (and license
paperwork) as well, especially if you’re traveling out of state. **Note: many canine diseases are
transmitted through bodily fluids (saliva, urine, semen, etc) and fecal
matter. It is always a good idea
use caution when allowing your dogs to interact with unknown dogs, and also to
keep them away from other dogs’ urine and feces.
A word about training: Two things that can be extremely
annoying to others are excessive barking and jumping. While some dogs are very quiet by nature, some bark at every
little breeze. Know your dog! If you know he’s yappy, make sure you
don’t leave him alone. If you have
to leave him for a short time, make sure he’s got a treat or favorite toy to
keep him occupied. Also, try to
block his view of passersby, so he won’t have as much temptation to bark. Be especially careful not to let him
bark into the night! Remember,
tents have thin walls... Another
habit to keep to a minimum is jumping.
By jumping, I mean letting your dog jump up on people, tables, etc. This one is something my dogs and I
struggle with; I have to keep reminding them that not everyone loves them,
especially not that much! Don’t let
your dog jump or climb up on people, unless the person is actively encouraging
it. On a related note, remember
that even a small dog can knock over a small child or someone who is unsteady
on their feet. Keeping your dog on
a leash and training him to Heel or Sit on command will solve this problem 99%
of the time.
When walking down merchant row, be
considerate. Not only of your
fellow shoppers, but also of the merchants! Many merchants don’t mind you bringing a well-behaved dog
into their booths, but always ask them first. (Some will allow dogs if they’re carried in your arms and
not allowed to touch anything.
Ask!) If they would rather
you didn’t bring pets inside, DON’T tie your dog to a handy table, chair, tent
pole, etc. Besides the obvious
fact that most dogs see poles as a bathroom(!), an unattended dog is an
accident waiting to happen! Even a
calm, well-mannered dog can turn defensive if he’s left alone in an unfamiliar
situation. Find someone reliable
to hold your dog while you’re browsing.
While all this may sound like a lot of work and
worry, bringing your dog with you doesn’t have to be hard. Just use these guidelines and you can
bring your dog to events with a minimum of fuss and make the whole experience
more enjoyable for both of you!
Now we come to the fun part! (Note: Not all of these hound
activities are in every Kingdom, so check with your local group to see what’s
available.) Here are a few
activities that are offered in various locales:
--Lure
Coursing: Lure coursing today
is a re-creation of the chase portion of a hunt, with some similarities to
Queen Elizabeth’s "Laws of the Leash." For obvious reasons we no longer use a live rabbit, but
substitute a plastic bag instead.
The bag is called a lure, and it is pulled around a field by a cord held
by a series of pulleys. The cord
is moved by either a hand crank setup, or more commonly, by a small motor. In the mundane world, the hounds win
points based on where they finished (placed), the number of hounds they
competed against, and a few other criteria. In the SCA, we don’t course to compete...we do it just for
fun! In some Kingdoms, only
certain breeds are allowed to participate, so make sure to check before
bringing your dog to try coursing.
Here
is a walk-through of a typical coursing event in the Kingdom of Artemisia: The course is set up and all
participants checked in. This
includes making sure that all dogs are up-to-date on all vaccinations and are
fit to run that day. Any dogs
without proper paperwork, with injuries, or bitches in heat are removed from
the field. The first handler,
called a fewterer, brings her dog to the starting line. The Huntmaster asks, "Are you
prepared?" When the fewterer
indicates she is ready, the Huntmaster calls, "Hold your
hounds!" All dogs in the area
are held securely by their handlers to ensure that they will not get loose when
the lure starts. When the
Huntmaster sees that all dogs are secured, he starts the lure. Just as the lure passes the hound, he
calls, "Tally ho!" This
is the fewterer’s cue to slip (release) her hound....and hopefully, at this
point the hound sees the lure and chases it around the course!
Archery/retrieving: (Work in progress.) A special arrow (the war-legal,
golf-tube type) is shot out of a crossbow. The arrow is then retrieved by a dog. This is meant to recreate when a lord
would go out hunting with a bow, and his hounds would bring back the duck,
pheasant, or whatever for him.
Agility/cross-country: In Mundane agility competitions, dogs
run through an obstacle course: the faster and more accurate the better! Some of the obstacles are an A-frame, a
tunnel (of cloth), a teeter-totter, and a dog walk (a narrow board, raised off
the ground). In the SCA, this
recreates the cross-country chase portion of the hunt. (Of course, as in any SCA dog-related
activity, we won’t be competing.)
Combined
hound and equestrian: There
are several scenarios that can include both horses and hounds. One is a boar hunt: The dogs will "chase the
prey" (coursing, retrieving, and/or agility), after which the equestrians
will "kill the boar" (lancing straw bales etc.). The two species aren’t on the field at
the same time, of course! Then,
that night at feast, "the boar" (a roast pig) and fowl can be served
as "the spoils of the hunt."
Spaniel
"coursing": Spaniel
coursing is based on hunting with spaniel-type dogs, including field and water
sections.
Many of the same "hunting games" our
dogs play at an event can be easily translated into children’s games! Several times now, I’ve let the kids be
the hounds and chase the lure. The
kids loved it, and so did their parents...since the kids were so tired out that
they slept like rocks that night!
Check with your local Minister of Children, Minister of the
Stables/Hounds, or the Regent of Hounds to see if there are any local hound
activities that can be adapted for children.
Now, I know I didn’t cover everything about
hounds in Period, but I hope I caught your interest enough for you to want to
find out more! There were so many
ways that dogs were used, and in so many places! There are hundreds of breeds out there...what breed of dog
do you have? Look it up! Maybe it was used for hunting boar or
chasing rats on the decks of a ship.
Think how you could work that into your persona! Or maybe you have a mutt... remember,
all breeds were "mutts" at one point, so what’s stopping you from
looking at him and figuring out what he would have done if he’d lived back
then? Use your imagination! And next time, bring your dog to an
event and chase a "bunny" or retrieve a "pheasant." You’ll be glad you did!
Bibliography:
Leeds Castle Foundation; "Four
Centuries of Dog Collars at Leeds Castle"
American Kennel Club; "The Complete Dog
Book"
Phoebus, Gaston; "The Book of the
Hunt"
Taylor, David; "The Ultimate Dog
Book"
www.heraldryunlimited.com
Illustration
from the Book of the Hunt
Tile from the
palace of Isabella d'Este
Embroidered collar in a tapestry
Sketch in the
Louvre, 1500c
1470s playing card
c1401-1500
A greyhound in the Tudor Garden
c1479
The 3 images
above are from the Leeds Castle Dog Museum
unknown
source
Reproduction of a boar dog’s armor
Linen dog
armor from the 1600s (German) from during Emp. Charles V’s reign
------
Copyright 2016 by Holly Howarth. <sablegreyhound at hotmail.com>.
Permission is granted for republication in SCA-related publications, provided
the author is credited. Addresses
change, but a reasonable attempt should be made to ensure that the author is
notified of the publication and if possible receives a copy.
If this article is reprinted in
a publication, please place a notice in the publication that you found this
article in the Florilegium. I would also appreciate an email to myself, so that
I can track which articles are being reprinted. Thanks. -Stefan.
<the end>
Formatting copyright © Mark S. Harris (THLord Stefan li Rous).