jewelry-msg - 1/17/08
Medieval jewelry. Jewelry sources. Men¹s earrings. pearls.
NOTE: See also the files: finger-rings-msg, ear-rings-msg, gem-sources-msg, pearls-msg, metalworking-msg, metals-msg.
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Stefan at florilegium.org
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From: OTZJ at cornella.cit.cornell.EDU (Ken Bender)
Date: 20 Aug 91 20:04:19 GMT
"Medieval" Torcs
Shortly before the Pennsic War someone claimed to have found
medieval torcs in the National Museum of Ireland. I find it very
interesting that the Keeper of Medieval Antiquities for the National
Museum of Ireland would not know that he had medieval torcs in the
collection for which he is responsible when queried about them. That
was the case when I asked him, back in May, if he knew of any
evidence for medieval torcs, whether archaeological or literary.
Now the recent poster claiming to have found medieval torcs
stated that the torcs dated to the 9th-10th centuries. I want to
know if this was A.D. or B.C. Additionally, how were these torcs
dated? By artistic motif, archaeological context, whim? Without
such evidence you might as well say soda cans were medieval. Let's
have some proof.
The fact that the Vikings carried torcs around (and buried
them) in no way implies that they wore them, nor that they were in
use contemporarily. The Vikings are known for raiding prehistoric
tombs in hopes of finding treasure, and even carved runes boasting
of such activities in Maes Howe on Mainland, Orkney. Yes, there
are torcs from Viking hoards, but that does not make them an item
of personal ornamentation to anyone; they could have been valued
merely for their weight in precious metal, and have been buried
before they were converted to another form.
As I've stated in a previous posting, it is certainly feasible
that a medieval Irish person might find a torc from earlier times
while digging peat, etc. And maybe the thing would have been worn,
but more likely the metal would have been converted into something
more in fashion, perhaps a brooch, a pin, horse tack, whatever.
There are no good historical, archaeological or art historical
sources for the wearing of torcs during the time considered
"period" by the SCA. Not one.
Torcs from a museum are not a good source of archaeological
evidence unless they come with find-spot data. Stray finds don't
count, since they are contextless. If a museum display claims a
certain date for a piece, let the visitor inquire of the staff of
the museum to determine the source of the date. Museum staff are
there for a reason, let them help. Then judge the accuracy; is
this too much to ask?
If people want to raise some cash by selling replica jewelry
fine, but please can we not be subjected to "replicas" with no
basis in fact, and stick to those perhaps slightly less glamorous,
but documented, pieces of the time and place appropriate?
-Lord Robert of Ferness, Myrkfaelinn
Re: Question on headgear_
Date: 4 Feb 92
From: mittle at watson.ibm.com (Josh Mittleman)
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Organization: IBM T.J. Watson Research Center
Greetings from Arval! Jael wrote:
> In several of the pictures I've seen, the ladies' headresses have been a
> simple circle of metal, worn around the forehead. It's sometimes left plain,
> and other times decorated. I believe that these circlets are the same
> sort of gear worn by those with rank. Am I thinking of the same thing?
> And will it be a breach of protocol if I attempt to make one of these for
> myself?
It depends on where you are in the SCA. The simple answer is: Find someone
in your area who has been in the SCA for a few years, and ask if your plans
are OK by local law and custom.
The complete answer is more complicated. The SCA has a nearly universal
custom that fancy circlets should denote rank, and that particular forms of
circlet should be reserved to particular ranks. So far as I have been able
to discover, this custom derives from Victorian English heraldic custom,
and from nothing else. In the Middle Ages, at most times & in most places,
there were no formal standards defining what regalia could be worn by what
rank. There probably were customary coronets for various noble houses, but
we have few records of such. From circumstantial evidence (paintings,
etc.), it appears that circlets were generally worn only by the higher
nobility and senior court officials, but it is not clear whether this was
because there was some custom that only these nobles should wear circlets,
or simply because no one else could afford to buy similar jewelry.
At a few times and places in medieval Europe, there were formal sumptuary
laws, regulating what one could wear on the basis of ones rank. I know
very little about the details of those laws.
If you are interested in this question, I recommend that you study
portraits and tapestries from your period. If you find that people in your
period, in your social class, are wearing circlets, then I think you ought
to be able to wear one. However, some kingdoms do have laws regulating the
form of circlets, so you should check before spending a lot of money on
one.
=============================================================
Arval Benicoeur, Treblerose Herald mittle at watson.ibm.com
From: WJMICHALSKI <wjmichalski at delphi.com>
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: Chain Mail `jewelery'
Date: Sat, 24 Sep 94 00:48:10 -0500
Honour Horne-Jaruk <una at bregeuf.stonemarche.org> writes:
> Now, mail _armor_ jazzed up to the level of jewelery happenned
>amazingly often- just look at all those Turkish pieces with verses of the
>Koran in glided links!
There is a mail shirt made for one of the Hungarian princes that fits
this bill precisely. It was made of silver and gilded brass wire, and had
repousse'd metal bits attached to the front. These were in the shapes of
stars, suns and flowers, some set with precious stones. The attached
"charms" were arranged to give the impression of wearing a heavy collar
of plates, much like a "Lord Mayor's" style chain.
There is a picture of the shirt in one of Oppi Untracht's books on
jewelry/metalworking, in the section on mail. (Sorry, I don't remember
the title; he has at least 2 major works in this area.)
As for being in period, the prince for whom this was made lived right across
the SCA time zone. I've yet to find out when the shirt was actually made.
If I remember correctly, it's in the collection of the Hungarian
National Museum.
Mikhail
From: ayotte at milo.UUCP (Robert Arthur Ayotte)
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: A question (sump. law.)
Date: 1 Nov 1994 18:32:35 -0500
In article <383o2r$3ea at panix.com> you wrote:
: In fact, the very idea that one's jewelry should
: correlate to one's rank is modern in origin. Sumptuary laws existed in
: period, but they bear very little resemblance to Society laws and customs,
: and existed in only a very small fraction of the range of cultures covered
: by our period. Personally, I think they are one of the more foolish
: additions to our codes of law.
:
: Arval d'Espas Nord mittle at panix.com
Interesting point. First I would point out that there were times
in some cultures where no one but the royal family could wear gold or silver
jewelry (France for a while or two comes to mind, see "7000 Years of Jewelry")
Also what else can we do but use crowns even if the persona is
from an era without them, so that folks that have never met the king
wll know who is the king when he's at an event. The Idea of an honor
guard with banners is neat, but not always possible. Now at Pennsic
it might be very cool for the King to have a personal guard that goes with
him everywhere, all in very spiffy outfits of course, and with all the
banners and bravado. Still would make it difficult to take a walk down
merchant row I guess.
Add to that most of the coronets and crowns that ARE seen on the
heads of our royalty and such that wear them, you would have only have
caught someone dead wearing in period. Most of the SCA regalia I have
seen comes from burial examples. Do you think that they burried folks
with the crown jewels? Nope.
So, the sumptuary laws are a SCA thing. That is OK since so much
of what we do mixes too many cultures to have customs that apply everywhere,
and we do need things to work for the here and now (and a way to keep
everyone from putting a crown on their heads which would be most distracting).
Lord Twining's book "The Crown Jewels of Europe" would be a good
place to start when looking into reproducing regalia appropriate to living
folks. It's most likely the most comprehensive source there is.
I just wish more folks would have correct from some period
jewelry. Some do, and some find the most remarkable stuff in modern
stores that's almost right out of digs. Still there's much that does
not pass any criteria for period metalworks, take a look at most of the
crowns (I know of several of the Midrealms) that at best are burial
Crowns. We can do better, and should.
Rings I often see are over used or fantasy in style, Brooches on
the other hand tend to be much closer to period. It is rare to see correct
fobs on late period garb, held with strait pins (even I use a safty pin
from the back), or buttons that are not all alike. I really could go on
but let's just say that as a whole the SCA has not spent much time working
on period jewelry, expecting laws about jewelry to work seems a bit much.
All that said, I have seen some wonderful period looking jewelry
used, and I have met enough who refrain from using jewelry because they
can't find things appropriate to their dress and period. So both sides
of the spectrum are here, and that's ok. IT does make life more interesting.
Horace of Northshield
From: habura at vccnw08.its.rpi.edu (Andrea Marie Habura)
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: Authenticity Police- Myth or Menace?
Date: 9 Dec 1994 13:56:58 GMT
Organization: Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, Troy NY
On Cariadoc's post: Yes, indeed, fake gems are authentic for many times
and places. (I have a few records of sumptuary laws from Edward III of
England's reign....artificial gems were allowed for the King's family,
*but not for anyone else*.) Speaking of which: If anyone has a source for
those little mirrors found on some Indian clothing, please tell me. From
what I've been able to tell, they're reasonably good replicas of a 14th
c. artificial gem called a "doublet" in England.
Alison MacDermot
*Ex Ungue Leonem*
From: phefner at aol.com (PHefner)
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: Authenticity Police- Myth or Menace?
Date: 8 Dec 1994 23:55:11 -0500
zkessin at ppp3253.wing.net (Zach) writes:
Guiliame asked if glass faux jewels are period, if not earlier. The
Egyptians used faience (sp?) beads. Their jewelers went after color
variety, not glitter, as in light refraction. The Romans started the use
of amber, and we all know that that's not exactly a rare gem. I'm sure we
could come up with all sorts of cheapo-stuff that was used for jewelry at
any time and at any place. ---Isabelle
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: "Authenticity" done on the cheap
From: una at bregeuf.stonemarche.org (Honour Horne-Jaruk)
Date: Sat, 10 Dec 94 03:35:44 EST
zkessin at ppp3253.wing.net (Zach) writes:
> "I'm talking about stuff like Austrian lead crystal, which is not
> period, but who has the money to go out and spend $100 a piece on
> real jewels for court dress? Not me!" ----Isabelle de Foix
>
> I don't know about Austrian lead crystal, but fake gemstones are not
> only period, but common--all the way back to egyptian times.
> Wouldn't glass beads have been very expensive in period too?
>
> Guiliam
"Ahem" she says modestly, trying to be informative while not sounding
like an advertisement....
Maison Rive, which I run, and Cabochons, which (Thank God) I don't
run, both sell researched, documented glass copies of medieval/renaissance
glass `jewels', some of which come fromn the same factories in Venice that
made the original fakes a thousand years (or so) ago...
There are authentic fakes out there. Try Pennsic, Birka, and possibly
the 30yr celebration.
Honour/Una/Alizaunde }:->
(Friend) Honour Horne-Jaruk R.S.F.
Alizaunde, Demoiselle de Bregeuf C.O.L. SCA
Una Wicca
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
From: ua923 at freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Mark Shier)
Subject: Re: info on jewelry,beadwork or craft
Organization: Victoria Freenet Association
Date: Tue, 28 Feb 1995 19:14:20 GMT
There are many other excellent books and articles on period
jewellery, such as the Lightbown book "Medieval European Jewellery".
It helps to know what period you are interested in. I
have an extensive library of books and articles on period
jewellery and metalwork. Please email me for more information.
There is one other way to learn about medieval jewellery.
It is possible to purchase legally exported and excavated pieces
and examine them oneself. Try Relic, who advertises in TI once
in a while, or email me. I use period pieces from my collection
to help me make better modern medieval pieces.
Master Mark der Gaukler
--
Gaukler Medieval Wares- period jewellery and metalwork.
Celtic,Norse, Fourteenth Century, Anglo-Saxon, Avar, Scythian,
Gothic and Visigothic, Roman, etc.
From: dorianjhmr at aol.com (DorianJhmr)
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: Thor's Hammers and Celtic Crosses
Date: 17 May 1995 03:52:25 -0400
An excellent source of Thor's hammers and Celtic crosses is Museum
Replicas Limited ( a division of Atlantic Cutlery) You can call them at
1-800-883-8838 and ask for a catalog. It's free, and they have excellent
quality, I have ordered many items from them and have always been
satisfied.
Hope it helps.
Dorian Jarlshammer
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
From: DDFr at Midway.UChicago.edu (David Friedman)
Subject: Re: Cheapside Hoard
Organization: University of Chicago Law School
Date: Tue, 6 Jun 1995 03:17:06 GMT
foxd at silver.ucs.indiana.edu (daniel fox) wrote:
> Does anyone know any detailed sources on the Cheapside Hoard--the
> cache of Elizabethan junk jewellry that was excavated a while back?
I don't. It is in the Museum of London, so they are the most likely source,
and items from it appear in some publications, but I have not seen (and
would like to see) a detailed source.
If that is junk jewelry, what do you classify as real jewelry--those gawdy
gewgaws in the tower? The cheapside horde appears to be largely enamelled
gold, set with very real gemstones. It even has the only definitely period
precious opal I have ever seen.
--
David/Cariadoc
DDFr at Midway.UChicago.Edu
From: Brenda <blhunter at mtholyoke.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: history of jewelry books?
Date: Sat, 30 Mar 1996 20:01:08 -0500
Organization: Mount Holyoke College
> On behalf of a mundane friend, I'm tossing out this question: What
> (is)(are) good history of jewelry books? Preferably mid- to late-
> period (i.e., post 1000 AD), and preferably western Europe (not
> Arabic, Rus, or Oriental)?
>
> Alban
Medieval European Jewelry, by Ronald W. Lightbrown, published by the
Victoria and Albert Museum in England. It costs between $150 and
$200 but it is the best I have ever seen. It has the most detail,
documentation, and good pictures (both color and B&W). It lacks
one thing -- no rings covered in the book.
There's another on that has "7,000 Years" in the title. It's currently
in print. It's good and has some things the other book doesn't
such as amulets and magical rings, etc.
The History of Jewelry is also a good book, published by Dover Publishing
and is widely available.
These are the three I would take with me if the house was burning
down.
Brianna -- Crafty Fox Artworks
From: ddfr at best.com (David Friedman)
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: Byzantine beadwork--???
Date: 16 May 1996 00:34:57 GMT
sindara at pobox.com (Sharon R. Saroff) wrote:
> I find it hard that Amethyst was so rare during our time period. I
> have been researching the folklore of gems for the last four years and
> have seen numerous reference to the amethyst for curing or dealing
> with various ailments. Also I have found mention of Cat's Eye in
> period under the name of crysoberyl. It is a very prominent stone to
> the Hindu's and other peoples who dwell in that part of the world.
>
> Sindara
Cat's eye and tiger eye are entirely different things. Tiger eye is
quartz--specifically, quartz that has replaced asbestos and retained its
fibrous structure--petrified asbestos. "Cat's eye," strictly speaking, is
a phenomenon (like the "star" in star sapphire etc.)--an apparent pool of
light in the middle of a stone. Cat's eye chrysoberyl is the standard
example of a stone exhibiting the cat's eye phenomenon, so is often
referred to as "Cat's eye." Alexandrite, incidentally, is also a variety
of chrysoberyl. Both cat's eye chrysoberyl and alexandrite, incidentally,
are much rarer and more expensive than tiger eye--sold by the carat, not
the pound.
With regard to amethyst, by "rare" I didn't mean "almost unheard of;" it
was one of the well known gemstones and routinely shows up in the period
lapidaries and in surviving pieces. I meant that it was rare enough to be
an expensive stone--much less expensive than diamond or ruby or sapphire
or emerald, but a lot more than agate or rock crystal.
I have not yet found anything to confirm my memory that the price of
amethyst was originally brought down by Russian discoveries, beyond one
comment that Siberia is the best source of high quality amethyst. But I'll
keep looking.
David/Cariadoc
--
ddfr at best.com
From: clare at cs.auckland.ac.nz (Clare West)
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: circlets and crowns
Date: 27 Jun 1996 03:47:02 GMT
Organization: University of Auckland