hds-liripipes-msg - 5/14/10

Medieval hoods and liripipes. Patterns.

NOTE: See also the files: headgear-msg, coronets-msg, netting-msg, snoods-cauls-msg, turbans-msg, veils-msg, wearng-cornts-msg, helmets-msg.

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Thank you,
    Mark S. Harris                  AKA:  THLord Stefan li Rous
                                          Stefan at florilegium.org
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<date lost. Sometime before 1990 - Stefan>
Gentle lords and ladies,

The best pattern I have found for a coif/hood for rapier combat is
the head for the rabbit/cat/bear costume (it comes in adult sizes)
that Simplicity makes. I recommend adding a few inches to the
overlap under the chin and a collar to tuck it securely into
the jacket or vest. I hope this helps.

Gwenhwyfar Lann ni Rodhri (Jennifer H. Varner) <Z4646595 at SFAUSTIN.BITNET>


Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
From: tbarnes at silver.ucs.indiana.edu (thomas wrentmore barnes)
Subject: Re: Awards
Keywords: Includes the headgear question!
Organization: Indiana University
Date: Fri, 9 Jul 1993 18:54:16 GMT

sclark at epas.utoronto.ca (Susan Clark) writes:
>	Let's put an end to this idea that women's hats from the Middle
>Ages and Renaissance are both hard to do and ugly.
>
	Lots of good ideas deleted

	Greetings from Lothar, 

	Lady Thorhalla has recreated an item of headgear she calls the
"cute little Viking cap" or the Viking hood. It is based on a yellow
silk coif found at the Jorvik dig. It basically consists of a rectangle
of material folded in half, sewn at the back with ties added at the
lower corners. Cardwoven ties and band at the front are optional.

	Documentable and remarkably simple for any early-Scandinavian or
Scandinavian influenced female persona.

	The phyrgian cap also looks like a breeze to make and was more
or less worn from antiquity to the 11th c.

	Ditto for the coif which was worn from the 12th to the 13th c.
as a more-or-less fashionable piece of garb, and to the 16th as a
functional garment.

	Also ditto for the 16th c. "pork-pie" beret. It is nothing but a
gathered circle of cloth with a stiffened brim.

	14th c. hoods are very easy to make and can be easily converted
into early 15th c. chaperons if you make the face hole roughly the same
size as your headband measurment. Chaperons themselves are also easy to
make they are just a padded tube of cloth with the "fru-fru" sticking
out of the top.

	The 14th c. "robin-hood" hat, can be made from a triangle of
felt turned up at the sides and back steamed into shape.

	Finally, the Italian or Flemish "sugar-loaf" hat that is so
common in 15th c. paintings and illuminations can be made by cutting off
the brim of regular hat with a suitably shaped crown. 

	Hats CAN be fun and easy. 
Lothar.


From: dickeney at access4.digex.net (Dick Eney)
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: Garb resource help requested
Date: 27 Mar 1996 13:34:19 -0500
Organization: Express Access Online Communications, Greenbelt, MD USA

Richard M. Albrecht <rmalbrec at chat.carleton.ca> wrote:
>	I am having some troubles researching a piece of garb and would
>appreciate some help from the whole of The Society.   I need
>bibliographical references and examples for a chaperons (capelets with
>hoods) that open in the front, preferably using buttons as a closure. 
>John peacock shows one on page #14 of his book "Costume  1066-1990's"
>(second fellow from the left) but fails to tells us where He is pulling
>this from.  I am hoping to use the design for some Pennsic garb, but
>accuracy is of chief importance.
>
>	Also while on this topic is there any historical precidence for
>hoodless chaperons?

The chaperon (hooded capelet) appears in the 14th century; look for 14th 
and 15th century art books.  By a hoodless chaperon I assume you mean a 
short hoodless cape?  Short capes existed, but the only example I can 
think of offhand of a short fitted shoulder-cape is the German-area 
"goller", which was worn by women to cover the low necklines of their 
gowns in cold weather (see Kohler).  Generally, I believe the capelet was 
just a long hood that kept the rain out of the back of your neck.

I find that a simple hood with a 6-inch capelet tucked under my winter 
coat is perfect for snow shoveling--the hood keeps my ears warm while 
letting out excess heat, and the caplet keeps the back of my neck warm.  
Much better than a hood attached to the coat, for some reason.

-- Tamar the Gypsy


From: IMC at vax2.utulsa.EDU (Marc Carlson)
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: re: A Question about Hats (1300)
Date: 6 Jun 1996 11:27:23 -0400

<Antoine D'Aubernoun<rshipp at flash.net (Randy Shipp)>>
>Learned Diarmuit,
>Have you seen illustrations which show the long-tail wrapped about the
>head, turban-like?  I don't know what time period that's from, but I
>thought I'd add it to the list.

Thank you.  I appreciate the input.

I believe they start doing that with their hoods in the late 13th century, 
and gradually get more nuts about it, eventually taking off the hood, 
sticking their heads in the face hole of the hood, wrapping the tail
around the outside to hold it on, and flopping the rest to the side 
(The "Chaperon", I believe).

"Fides res non pecunniae,         Diarmuit Ui Dhuinn
 sed temporis"                    University of Northkeep/Company of St. Jude
 -- Unknown Recreator             Northkeepshire, Ansteorra
                                  (I. Marc Carlson/IMC at vax2.utulsa.edu)


From: morgandev at aol.com (MorgandeV)
Newsgroups: rec.org.sca
Subject: Re: A Question about Hats (1300)
Date: 8 Jun 1996 11:31:57 -0400

The Chaperone started out as a rolled up hood (roll up the part that
covers your head, put the thing on your head. The shoulder cape flops over
the top, and the liripipe hangs down. Eventually this evolved into a
seperate form, with a padded roll, attached liripipe, and a cockscomb on
top, sometimes wired to keep it in a particular shape! 

There is a simpler version of this, where you take two pieces of fabric,
shaped sort of like this: 
        _______
       /               \
     /                   \
     |                    |           The Measurement across should be 1/2
     |                    |           your head circumference, plus
     |                    |           an inch or two, to allow for the roll.  
     |                    |
     |                    |
     |                    |

Sew them together and roll up from the bottom. This gives you a roll, and
a little cap, without all the extraneous stuff. If you can, sew the part
that will be the cap together, then turn it inside out to sew the rest.
That way your seams don't show on the roll. Otherwise, make pretty seams.
Also you can line it, and have a roll in color A, and the cap in color B,
and vice versa, if it pleases you.

Hope this helps, it sounds sort of like what you described. Vaugely

Morgan de Villarquemada, Sire de Ste. Claire
Barony of Dragonship Haven
Kingdom of the East

Morgandev at AOL.com


Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 19:17:25 EDT
From: <BastetKat at aol.com>
To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu
Subject: Re: Hat question

     14th century gentlemen did indeed wear hoods on their heads. The
"cockscomb" (basically a hood with the opening for the face set on the head
and the liripipe wrapped around) is fairly late period, appearing with the
early houppalonds (sp?). Women wore a variety of veils, and "Princess Leia"
buns. Sometimes the latter was enclosed in jeweled metal braid cases.
     Below are some sites which have lots of contemporary pictures of 14th
century folk. Also check out your local library.

These are all direct links (am I the only person on this list to use them?).
Just click on them.

http://www.cua.edu/www/hist/netserf/art.htm" NetSERF: Medieval Art

A picture of Jean le Bon instituting the Order of the Star (a knightly order.
Women could join as well)
http://www.bnf.fr/enluminures/images/jpeg/i2_0042a.jpg
Christine de Pisan (a middle class woman) wears headwear from a slightly
earlier time (she's not quite as fashionable!)
http://lcweb.loc.gov/exhibits/bnf/bnf030.jpg
Charles the 4th meets his bride
http://www.bnf.fr/enluminures/images/jpeg/i2_0077.jpg

The problem with this page is it shows the wrong headwear (The cockscomb, not
the hood)
http://www.pipcom.com/~tempus/cotehardie/patterns.html
midpage. not a lot but may help.

Judith


Date: Sat, 29 Aug 1998 23:15:30 EDT
From: <SNSpies at aol.com>
To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu
Subject: Re: Orkney Hood [SCA]

<< >In the Spring 1997 issue of "Archaeological Textiles Newsletter", there is a
 >short article entitled "An Update on the Orkney Hood" by Thea
 Gabra-Sanders on pp.19-20.

<<The Orkney Hood is known to many of us from A.S. Henshall's, "Early
 >Textiles Found in Scotland" (Proc. Soc. Antiq. Scot. 86, 1-29).

 <<Would it be possible to get a more thorough citation than the above?

That is the full citation for the "Archaeological Textiles Newsletter", and I
believe it will be almost impossible to find without writing to Dr. Wild at
the University of Manchester, England.  If you want his address, please ask.

As to the Henshall citation, it is A.S. Henshall, S. Maxwell and others,
"Early Textiles Found in Scotland", National Museum of Antiquities
Publications, reprinted from the Proceedings of the Society of Antiquaries of
Scotland, vols. LXXXVI and LXXXVIII, sessions 1951-56.

Nancy (Ingvild)


Date: Sat, 4 Mar 2000 01:54:41 +1100
From: <mhenley at zip.com.au>
To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu
Subject: liripipe pattern

The MoL Textiles and Clothing has a pattern of an existing hood. 
Unfortunately the actual liripipe part is missing, so the length is up 
to you!

I made this hood up by scaling up the pattern drawing to full size 
and used a piece of my own handspun, handwoven woollen cloth. 
This determined the length of the liripipe as I had to use whatever 
was left over after the hood was cut out. Because the making of the 
actual fabric was so time consuming (and cutting it so scary) I 
wasn't willing to waste an inch. I would surmise that my period 
counterpart would feel much the same.

Margie of Glen More


Date: Sat, 4 Mar 2000 12:55:38 +0100 (CET)
From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Anna=20Troy?= <owly3 at yahoo.se>
To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu
Subject: Re: Liripipe
 
I have links to several in the costume section of my
Crafts Page, there's
http://www.virtue.to/articles/hoodlum.html and
http://www.geocities.com/Athens/Parthenon/5923/cloth/hoods.html
for example and I have some in Swedish as well :-)

Anna de Byxe


Date: Mon, 6 Mar 2000 16:20:35 -0500
From: Warren & Meredith Harmon <silveroak at juno.com>
To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu
Subject: lirapipes

Here's what our shire's tailor has to say in the subject:

Angus was digging through some of his tailoring / clothing books.  In the
13th century, during the reign of Edward I, lirapipes were at the 3-foot
length.  By the time of Edward II, they were at 6', and the lirapipes
were being used to tie the hoods in a turban-like style.  He says that
the assumption can be made that the upper class could purchase more
cloth, so therefore longer lirapipes.

Now, here's my personal experience: when I made my hood, I was shown how
the evolution of a lirapipe makes sense.  You draw the pattern at one end
of the cloth, then reverse the pattern at the opposite corner of the
cloth.  When the hood is cut out, you end up with a decent bit of
re-usable cloth...but with these two tails hanging out on each side,
leftovers from cutting out the hood.  I can just see some tailor getting
the bright idea of incorporating the "tails" into the hood, and upping
the price (for the extra cloth, of course! ;-)  It makes much sense to
me, and the tailor's suddenly paid for waste cloth!

-Caro


From: Sunny Briscoe <sunnyday72 at gmail.com>
Date: January 6, 2010 2:30:41 PM CST
To: Barony of Bryn Gwlad <bryn-gwlad at lists.ansteorra.org>
Subject: Re: [Bryn-gwlad] Experience, not a purist

I would like to recommend the modern commercial McCall's Pattern # 4805 for hoods
http://www.mccallpattern.com/item/M4805.htm?tab=list/costumes&page=all

It is _very_ similar to some of the extant hoods in Woven Into the Earth and all the hard work is already done.  The gore is even in the right place.  I do feel like it's a bit large, but it would be easy to scale down.  It also has a flat cap, and a "swashbuckler" type hat that I can not vouch for.

Joann's and Hancock's routinely have their patterns on sale for $.99, so the cost is minimal.

Elisabetta


From: bryn-gwlad-bounces+sdirocco=suddenlink.net at lists.ansteorra.org [mailto:bryn-gwlad-bounces+sdirocco=suddenlink.net at lists.ansteorra.org] On Behalf Of Elizabeth Crouchet

Sent: Wednesday, January 06, 2010 2:14 PM

To: Barony of Bryn Gwlad
Subject: Re: [Bryn-gwlad] Experience, not a purist
 
I'd love to see the hand out and the pattern. Some pip when the weather is better, can we arrange to get together so I can copy your pattern? I'd also pay for any copy costs for the hand out. 

Claire

On Wed, Jan 6, 2010 at 2:05 PM, Bree Flowers <evethejust at gmail.com> wrote:
<<< I have a FANTASTIC hood pattern that was a hand-out from a costume 
laurel back home when she was teaching a handsewing class (hoods are a
 great place to start learning this skill because they are small, so
 you actually stand a chance at finishing them before you get bored or
 frustrated). 

If anyone would like a copy I'd be happy to let you trace 
it. It would be suitable for 14th century personas (though my husband
 wears his with his generic early-period stuff) and can be made with or
 without a liripipe.

 I'm not sure I'm sold on the usefulness of wool hoods here in Texas. 
Maybe if it was a flannel weight? But for the summer months, you will
 LOVE a hood made of linen. That is the one and only piece I have
 handsewn and my husband's favorite part of his kit. 

Cool, easy to wear 
and keeps the sun off.



~Eve


From: "Suzanne DiRocco" <sdirocco at suddenlink.net>
Date: January 6, 2010 3:10:24 PM CST
To: "'Barony of Bryn Gwlad'" <bryn-gwlad at lists.ansteorra.org>
Subject: Re: [Bryn-gwlad] Experience, not a purist

Somewhere in this house I believe I have a handout from Maitresse Muriel de Chimay’s 14th Century hood fitting class.
It has notes about draping and fit. 
At the moment, I do not recall much about the class because I was the model. 
What I do remember:  The women’s style buttons up the front, due to the braided hairdressing of the time period.
The men’s style does not typically button up the front as it is meant to be pulled over the head. 
 
I am looking for a copy of the handout online and have also requested a copy from Maitresse Muriel. 
If she is able to assist, I will be happy to share the info. 
 
In the meantime, perhaps these links may also be of interest. 
 
How To:
http://www.virtue.to/articles/hoodlum.html
http://www.feoragdubh.eastkingdom.org/Nutshell_2004-02/nab_gothic_hood.htm
 
Online articles:
http://www.mathildegirlgenius.com/NorthernLights/HoodDocs.pdf
http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/cloth/hoods.html
 
Patterns:
https://www.reconstructinghistory.com/index.php?s=&c=22&d=29&e=&f=&g=&p=563&w=21
 
Renee

<the end>
Edited by Mark S. Harris	hds-liripipes-msg	7 of 7