belts-msg - 7/24/11 Medieval and SCA belts and baldrics. NOTE: See also the files: gloves-msg, jewelry-msg, p-favors-art, pouches-msg, chasity-belts-msg, coronets-msg, leather-msg, lea-tooling-msg, leather-bib, leather-dyeing-msg. ************************************************************************ NOTICE - This file is a collection of various messages having a common theme that I have collected from my reading of the various computer networks. Some messages date back to 1989, some may be as recent as yesterday. This file is part of a collection of files called Stefan's Florilegium. These files are available on the Internet at: http://www.florilegium.org I have done a limited amount of editing. Messages having to do with separate topics were sometimes split into different files and sometimes extraneous information was removed. For instance, the message IDs were removed to save space and remove clutter. The comments made in these messages are not necessarily my viewpoints. I make no claims as to the accuracy of the information given by the individual authors. Please respect the time and efforts of those who have written these messages. The copyright status of these messages is unclear at this time. If information is published from these messages, please give credit to the originator(s). Thank you, Mark S. Harris AKA: THLord Stefan li Rous Stefan at florilegium.org ************************************************************************ From: djheydt at uclink.berkeley.edu (Dorothy J Heydt) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Ring buckles (was "A reasonable attempt") Date: 12 Apr 1996 16:41:18 GMT Organization: University of California at Berkeley David Friedman wrote: >So far as I can remember, simple ring buckles go back very far in the SCA. >I know of no reason to believe that they originated because of problems >with buckle tongues breaking. At BART practice last night I asked Flieg--a genuine Dinosaur who has been around ever since Diana's back yard. He says ring buckles have been used in the SCA ever since he can remember, and that he's also seen them on brass effigies (or the rubbings thereof). Dorothea of Caer-Myrddin Dorothy J. Heydt Mists/Mists/West UC Berkeley Argent, a cross forme'e sable djheydt at uclink.berkeley.edu PRO DEO ET REGE From: habura at matisse.its.rpi.edu (Andrea Marie Habura) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: Ring Buckles (was "A reasonable attempt") Date: 16 Apr 1996 20:22:45 GMT Organization: Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute On the dangly-end belt: Daveed of Grenada (I think--this is a repost, thanks to a recalcitrant server) wonders where the style comes from. A lot of the English memorial brasses--especially from the High Gothic-- do show this style...but all of the buckles, as far as I can tell, have tongues. Here's a sample of the styles, which I gleaned from Muriel Clayton's _Catalog of Rubbings of Brasses and Incised Slabs_, HMSO 1979. Many 13th c. brasses (e.g. D'Aubernon, 1277; de Trumpington, 1289) and some 14th c. ones (Fitzralph, 1323; Hastyngs, 1347) show the sword belt buckled with a tongued buckle (exact shape varies) and the long tail of the belt tucked up behind the sword and left to dangle. It's not looped about the rest of the belt in any way. Some 14th c. brasses (de Cobham, 1354; Loutterell, 1390; d'Eresby, 1400) do show the classic "SCA loop", somewhat modified in the d'Eresby brass. The de Cobham buckle is round with a (hard to see) tongue, at about 10:00; the Loutterell buckle is square, and looks to have a central vertical bar with a tongue; the d'Eresby buckle seems to be trefoil shaped. I can't see a tongue, but the loop is atypical and so loosely done that the belt would slide right off if the tongue weren't there. Another 14th c. belt is just a straight thick belt with a clasp or buckle closure, and no discernible tail. (You 14th c. types are all nodding your heads up and down in recognition.) Examples: de la Pole, 1380; de Retford, 1390; de Knevyngton, 1370; Harsick, 1384. 15th c. brasses (e.g.: Gaynesford, 1450; Paris, 1427; de Brewys, 1426) often show a totally impractical belt: it's a simple ring of material, no sign of a buckle, with a circumference much greater than the hips. It's worn slantways on the right hip, but there's no waist cincture to keep the belt from spontaneously sliding to the floor the minute the wearer moved. I don't see a loop or hook at the right hip, although that might do the trick. The St. Leger brass (1470) shows a buckled loose belt dangling forward; the sword is the low point and covers the groin. No loop. My guess is that someone looked at the looped 14th c. brasses, especially one like the de Cobham brass, and designed something that looked similar. Without the weight of the sword on the belt, the ring buckle works, and gives a good "look and feel". Alison MacDermot *Ex Ungue Leonem* From: IMC at vax2.utulsa.EDU (Marc Carlson) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: re: Ring Buckles (was "A reasonable attempt") Date: 16 Apr 1996 20:57:44 -0400 > >I suppose a flimsy argument could be put up for the supposition of ring >buckles on the evidence that a fringed garter was found tied in exactly >the same knot used to fasten a set of ring buckles (see the wonderfully >funky fringed garter in Crowfoot's _Medieval Textiles_...). Not a source I have immeadiately to hand. On the other hand, it is discussed in Egan & Pritchard's _Dress Accessories_ (p71) does show that specific knot, but on a ring buckle with a pin (i.e., a "ranged buckled"). In case anyone's interested, I went ahead and took an old ring buckled belt and remade it in about ten minutes, taking it apart by popping the rivets, wrapping a bar of metal (taken from an old belt buckle) around the ring, punching four holes (one for the pin, three eyeholes further along to buckle it to, and reassemble them by resetting the rivets). I probably should find some sort of belt end, but that's not absolutely necessary at this moment. A few minutes to change it from something that may not be documentable, to something that is definately documentable. >But I don't think such an argument would stand more than the provervial >paper dog in Purgatory! It depends on how many O or D rings the garter has. Two rings will hold the knot in place a bit better than one, but stil not so well as a buckle. "Fides res non pecunniae, Diarmuit Ui Dhuinn sed temporis" University of Northkeep/Company of St. Jude -- Unknown Recreator Northkeepshire, Ansteorra (I. Marc Carlson/IMC at vax2.utulsa.edu) From: ddfr at best.com (David Friedman) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: Belt Question Date: 22 Apr 1996 04:06:33 GMT Bryan J. Maloney (bjm10 at cornell.edu) wrote: > > However, what is an appropriate "dark age" form of > such a buckle? Would it be a separate tang or all of a piece with the > rest of the buckle? Is either okay? It's fairly simple to make either > type. My impression, from looking at a lot of jewelled migration period belt buckles, is that the movable tongue is the more common form. My guess is that the conclusion would carry over to ordinary buckles, but I haven't looked. For the situation somewhat later, you might try the Museum of London book of Dress Accessories. David/Cariadoc -- ddfr at best.com From: cfrc_gagetown at brunswickmicro.nb.ca Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: belt buckles Date: 19 May 1996 22:52:01 GMT > Stuart Chignell writes: > I have been trying to find a source of belt buckles unfourtunately I > haven't been able to find anything I liked that was big enough. So I > wanted to try making them myself. Can anyone give me any suggestions on > where to start. > Thanks in advance, > Stuart Chignell. Greetings Stuart Chignell: It would depend on how big a belt buckle you want. If you are looking for 'big' then it will not be period. Buckles were made out of expensive materials (expensive to the people of the time) and therefore made large enough to do the job. But no larger. If you wanted a really expensive buckle, you would go after silver or gold. I can only say how to make a period buckle based on the average for the 14th century. To make an average 14th century 'D' buckle: Decide how large a buckle you want. The larger the thicker. If the strap is one inch wide, you should use 3/16 inch round stock. Take a piece long enough to keep the proportions of a capital 'D' when the inside measurement of the flat part is just wide enough to admit the strap. You may do this by drawing the buckle full-size on paper and measuring first. Heat with a torch and bend into a 'D' shape so that the ends meet on the flat side. Take a length of 1/8 inch round stock that is long enough to over hang the round part by a 1/16 on an inch. It must also be able to wrap around the flat part of the 'D' and touch itself on the other side. The part that wraps around is heated and hammered flat. It is then bent around the 'D.' To affix the buckle to a strap, a slot (not hole) is cut into the strap. Ensure enough of an end is left to fold back unto itself with room to rivet or sew as you wish. The 14th century saw the use of other buckles for specific uses. What I have given here is only the easiest to make with the least instructions. I hope this can help. With your leave to sign myself, His Lordship Daniel of Stafford Pele, AoA, GoA Quarterly sable and gules, a castle and in dexter chief a mullet of four points argent. From: Kim Pollard Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: belt buckles Date: Thu, 23 May 1996 07:16:00 -0400 On Thu, 23 May 1996, Robert W. Pastor wrote: > Colin McArthur wrote: > I've made buckles using a large brass ring (obtainable at Tandy). Get a > brass rod at your local craft store and fabricate a cross piece. Attach > your belt to the cross piece and pull the other end through the ring. It > looks great. Believe it or not, you may also find brass rings at many cloth stores! I've seen them as large as 2.5" in diameter to as small as .5" -- and they are generally prices a little lower than the above mentioned store (shudder). Good luck with your belt buckle! Kimberly From: stosh at netopia.net Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: belt buckles Date: Fri, 24 May 1996 08:08:39 GMT Organization: Sprint Canada Inc. >Greetings unto Stuart Chignell, >In article <319FBE6A.6778 at student.anu.edu.au>, Stuart Chignell > wrote: > I have been trying to find a source of belt buckles unfourtunately I > haven't been able to find anything I liked that was big enough. So I > wanted to try making them myself. Can anyone give me any suggestions on > where to start. Perhaps you might try to carve a buckle out of horn or antler. I seem to recall some antler belt buckles from the "VIKING" period. Michel (of Rye) Date: Thu, 3 Oct 1996 14:17:48 -0500 (CDT) From: "I. Marc Carlson" To: ansteorra at eden.com Subject: RE: FW: Re: sources & misconceptions >My apoligies to anyone who already recieved this missive but I would like to >know from you all if any one else has found any documentation supporting the >tankard hanging off the belt..... Let's think about this. After hitting the more basic sources (Luttrel Psalter, Gaston de Foix's Hunting Book, Ye Olde Bigge Boke of Paint on Parchment, and so forth, the only things I find hanging from belts are pouches, knives, penners & ink horns, crossbow quivers, and sounding horns (and those are hung by baldricks). So, does that mean cups were never worn? Don't be silly. We can't *prove* that Henry II didn't vote Republican. OTOH, were they commonly worn from the belt? No, not from this evidence. Moreover, unless I'm mistaken *cups* don't make much of an appearance anyway. Sure, we know they had them, we find cup sherds all the time, (actually, we find sherds all the time, but I need to check the kind) but often I'm led to believe that some people used whatever was at hand including a picture of a feast in de Foix that clearly shows only ONE cup being used by one of the thirteen people in the picture (and he appears to be one of the servants) while two of the others are shown drinking from costrels, with other costrels lying about. The argument might be made that they are eating outside, but after all isn't that sort of spontaneous thirst quenching the sort of reason that one would wear one's cup publically? Clearly the question is then, who WOULD wear a tankard or cup hanging from their belts? Rich people and Nobles? Of course not, *they* have servants to take care of such things. Townsmen? They HIRE people to take care of things like that. Peasants and serfs? Where would they use them? While working in the fields? That's what costrels are for. For that matter, how would they be hung? Earthenware cups are relatively fragile. Cups with handles are as rare as blue blood on a battlefield. Leather tankards with handles *might* have existed before the 1500s, but I can't say one way or the other. OTOH, they might have carried them in cup holders (leather cases for them), but they would still be safer if kept in the luggage, or in one's haversack. I. Marc Carlson, Reference Librarian |LIB_IMC at CENTUM.UTULSA.EDU Tulsa Community College, West Campus LRC|Sometimes known as: Reference Tech. McFarlin Library | Diarmuit Ui Dhuinn University of Tulsa, 2933 E. 6th St. | University of Northkeep Tulsa, OK 74104-3123 (918) 631-3794 | Northkeepshire, Ansteorra Date: Fri, 4 Oct 1996 10:00:36 -0500 To: ansteorra at eden.com From: gunnora at bga.com (Gunnora Hallakarva) Subject: Re: FW: Re: sources & misconceptions Margaret Rae Carignan asked: >>My apoligies to anyone who already recieved this missive but I would like to >>know from you all if any one else has found any documentation supporting the >>tankard hanging off the belt..... While I don't know about tying goblets and/or tankards to one's clothing, there is plenty of period evidence for spoon cases throughout at least the early period. These cases could hang from the clothing, but very frequently folks wore "pockets" or small pouches that hung inside their clothes... where you would not see such an item. Period practices also included stowing small items inside the waist of a belted tunic, or in a volumnious sleeve as current fashion dictated. Even the liripipes on hoods were used to store stuff. Thus I'd guess that it was *much* more likely to carry your spoon in such a location where it wouldn't get lost, stolen, or be torn loose (as items dangling from one's clothing are prone to do!) Everyone was assumed to have their own knife and spoon... that wasn't a host/ess's duty to provide. I'd guess the paintings of peasants with spoons in their hatbands was a result of them being too poor for a spoon case. But I also have documentation from the German areas (probably others as well) that a popular courting gift was a carved spoon... a good way to spend a long winter cooped up indoors! So carrying a spoon in one's hatband might be a way of flirting, or even of showing off a gift received. (In the Baltic area, coutring gifts also included carved buttons of bone, wood or amber, small carved pigs, etc as well). We do know that Viking women tied a bunch of things to their brooches, but while I've seen brooch-suspended knives, I've yet to see a spoon treated this way. My personal experimentation leads me to believe that many spoons are fragile... horn spoons can be (the neck is the danger point) and finely-carved wooden spoons would be as well. Thus the spoon case provided protection for said spoon. And spoons are labor intensive to make, as well... I've done it! and you'd want to protect the labor investment, so it just doesn't make sense to hang them around outside your person to be knocked around and possibly broken. Wassail! ::GUNNORA:: Who agrees that a pewter tankard tied to one's belt causes black-and-blue contusions on one's knees! Ouch! Gunnora Hallakarva Herskerinde Date: Mon, 15 Dec 1997 06:26:09 From: Nancee Beattie To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu Subject: Re: wide belts >Does anyone have a reference or picture for very wide belts on women? I've >never seen a picture with one. I rather thought it was an SCA custom (due >to how handy such a belt can be) but question whether it is "period". Look at the early 15th century--houppelands and Burgundian V-neck gowns are both frequently worn with wide belts. Meredydd Date: Mon, 15 Dec 1997 19:16:10 -0600 From: theodelinda at webtv.net (linda webb) To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu Subject: Re: wide belts Most of the period pictures I've seen of women in houppelandes feature a fairly wide belt under the breasts, and some of women from the closely fitted cotte era (I will not say "cotehardie" any more x 100) show a a hip belt which might be 2-3 inches wide. As far as I can recall, the 11-12th centuries (so-called "Norman" dress and the bliaud) also involved belts at least 2 inches or so in width. Some of the Anglo-Saxon dresses seem to have involved belts, as the overgown appears to be kilted up at the waist, but there's not way to tell what kind of belt is used. And Duerer and Holbein both show, in their drawings of women in German territiories, some fairly wide belts. I think that both the Tres Riches and Tres Grandes Heures show enough women's clothing, both noble and comon, to give you a start on that period, and you might also consult the Luttrell Psalter and Queen Mary's Psalter, which are frequently used as sources for books on illumination. The Tacuinam Sanitatis also has a lot of good pictures to work with, even if it wasn't _meant_ to be about clothing. Of course _Dress Accessories_ includes belts, but they don't get too gender-specific. From a practical point of view, any belt that is meant to hold anything of any weight has to be sturdy enough to be stable, so if you can find an illustration from the period, you are good to go. However, I will note that most of the time, noble women don't seem to have carried too much on their belts--they didn't have to be practical, at least when portrayed in their good clothes! Memorial brasses and sculptures probably would be worth looking at, too. Now, please note that I am not making any statements pro or con those belt/bustier things that a lot of women wear, to good or bad effect, as a sort of pseudo-renaissance garb. Theo Date: Tue, 16 Dec 1997 02:52:44 EST From: EowynA To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu Subject: Re: wide belts Someone asked, >Does anyone have a reference or picture for very wide belts on women? I've >never seen a picture with one. The Medieval Woman's Calendar, 1997, December, shows two ladies in Burgundian gowns (or are they Yorkists?) with very wide belts - 4" at least. These belts start just under the breast line, and look as if they do not go as far down as the waist. Quite a few illustrations of This style of dress show a very wide belt. That calendar is at work, so I cannot cite ms. info. So I pulled a random illuminated ms. book off my shelf -- A Medieval Book of Seasons, by Marie Collins and Virginia Davis (Harper Collins, 1992). Page 56 shows a lady in a white belt about the same width as the strip of fabric above the belt (neckline to below the breasts) -- I'd say 4-5" or so. It is from a late 15th c. Flemish ms. in the FitzWilliam museum. There are other examples of women wearing wide belts with houppelands and such, but none as extreme as that example. Now, I certainly agree that the very wide belts worn at the waist, with a separate skirt and bodice styled like the 16th century country lass (or is that tavern wench?) don't seem to appear in my references with anything near the frequency as they are seen at Ren Faires and events. In fact, I have yet to see such a thing in manuscripts. Perhaps you were referring to this style? But I believe the original posting was in reference to houppelands and such earlier fashions. Eowyn Amberdrake, Caid Ancore Imparo -- I am still learning Subject: ANST - Whats a guy to do? Date: Tue, 05 Oct 1999 22:05:03 MST From: Brent Hanner To: ansteorra at Ansteorra.ORG Was looking through the Manessa Codex today and a few other pictures and noticed something that causes me a delima. Every sword belt in the book is white (granted may have missed one). plus several other pictures from that period have the same thing. I'll post some stats tomorrow. So whats a guy to do? Peder Subject: Re: ANST - Re: Whats a guy to do Date: Sun, 10 Oct 1999 12:43:39 MST From: Brent Hanner To: ansteorra at Ansteorra.ORG JHORTON at sfaadm.sfasu.edu wrote: > If i were printing a period book, i would not waste time cutting a block > with the likness of a squire. Well lets look at the evidence. Here are how the belts span out. These are sword belts only and they are all white. (Note:one looks slightly greyish but we will assume its faded or bled) Uppernobility : 5 Herren : 8 No Stated Title : 8 Others Plate #4- Most likey ritter or higher Plate #19- 2 foot soldiers with white belts. Definitely not knights. Plate #61- Soldier of some sort could be a ritter Plate #66- Soldier of some sort could be ritter or better. plate #92- 2 Soldiers of some sort could be ritter plate #108- Soldier, most likely ritter or better. plate #127- Not actually a sword belt but very similar. Crossbow belt worn like a sword belt. No rank given. plate #135- More than likely a noble of some sort. The majority of the sword belts are on people who are ritters or above but in 13th century Germany knighthood was still a rather middle class thing. Knighthood would be the equililant of recieving your AoA. But the fact is that even those that aren't ritters in the Codex are wearing white sword belts. So whats a guy to do. Peder From: bbrown1382 at aol.com (BBrown1382) Newsgroups: rec.org.sca Subject: Re: Plaque Belt Closure Date: 26 Mar 2000 14:19:30 GMT Plaque belts of the 14th and 15th centuries appear generally to fasten w/ a buckle and strap end arrangement. The closures are often not easy to see on effigies because the hardware is closed and rotated around to ride under the left kidney leaving only plaques showing in the front. This appears to be common on belts where the plaques are riveted to a leather foundation. Belts of armorial or otherwise decorated plaques also occur where the individual plates Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 21:19:57 -0500 From: "Helen Schultz" To: Subject: Re: Belt help Hello, Christian. Your best source for researching these belts is from paintings or manuscript pages. The ones I have seen did have a buckle somewhat like the modern ones (meaning with the single prong) except for their shapes. I have seen examples of both the short ones like you have described, but have also seen some that buckled close to the body but had a "tongue" that extended the entire length of the dress.... yes, those were quite long. I seem to recall seeing them buckled both in the front and in the back of the dress/robe. The Italians left some wonderful examples in their frescoes. Sorry that I can't really give you some specifics as to which paintings or manuscripts to look at, as I am not really that organized at the moment. There are two wonderful books on the Italian frescoes, but they are not of the country you desire. I have done a Houppeland with a similar style belt and used a buckle from a modern elasticized belt (cut it off and just used it on the belt at the position I wanted it... with the tail down the back). Looked really nice -- probably not exactly period, but nice anyway. This particular buckle was roundish and cut out into a mostly knotwork pattern. KHvS ----- Original Message ----- From: Christine Cooper20 <<< I need to make a belt for my circa 1450 Burgundian robe. I have seen them from the front plenty of times so I know that it should be several inches wide and that it should sit rather high up (covering the lower ribs, yes? giving excellent support in place of modern undergarments). But what about the back? I've seen some pictures (can you tell I'm new to this research thing?) which just barely show the ends kind of sticking out from the ladies' backs. So obviously they were rather short belts. How did they buckle? I mean, was it a buckle? The only belt I wear (hard to believe it's green, eh?) has just a metal ring and the belt is long enough (and narrow enough) to loop through and around itself. I can't imagine that a 4-inch wide belt would want to be so acrobatic. So how did the darned things stay? Christian O'Cuinn >>> Date: Sun, 24 Sep 2000 00:33:50 -0600 From: Bjorn Grimnirsson To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu Subject: Re: Belt help Christine Cooper wrote: > I need to make a belt for my circa 1450 Burgundian robe. > Christian O'Cuinn Buckles date back at least to Roman times - though I would imagine they were often thought of more as a piece of jewelry replacing lacing and knots than the utilitarian item they are today. Raymond's Quiet Press (http://www.nmia.com/~rqpltd/) has a few English buckles around the time period you're looking at. The buckles would probably be rather small and placed in the middle of one end, buckled a strap from the other end (http://www.nmia.com/~rqpltd/RomanGermanic_Belt.html - it's not a lady's belt or medieval, but it shows what I'm talking about). A belt could also be laced together with a leather thong through punched holes on the ends of the belt (like a shoe). Of course, being 9th century Norse myself and knowing nothing about the fashions of later periods, this is only semi-educated guesswork. Bjorn are hinged together, sometimes with a differently shaped and decorated spacer plate (also hinged). The belt is taken on and off by slipping the pin from a selected hinge (the pin is best drilled and chained to a ring soldered to the back of its plate if you don't want to risk losing it). Clearly one had best maintain their body proportions (or have some extra plates!) if they use this approach. Sir Brian duBois Breton, Atlantia. Date: Fri, 5 May 2000 13:38:43 -0500 (CDT) From: "Pixel, Queen of Cats" To: sca-arts at raven.cc.ukans.edu Subject: Re: Penners? On the west front of Wells Cathedral there is a statue of a woman who has a number of things hanging off her belt. One is very obviously a pouch. There are two other things hanging beside/behind it that are less obvious as to what they are. One of the two looks very like a small container of some sort, and the other one could be a penner, or a knife, a large needlecase, or any number of other things which are longish and narrowish and might be hanging off a woman's belt. I was planning on taking a closer look at the photo this weekend--my love has been scanning them and printing them out, and I only saw the b/w printout--and seeing if I could figure out what the mystery objects might be. If you like, I could probably convince him to email you a copy of the jpeg. Margaret 12 Oct 2000 19:30:33 -0000 from Norsefolk at egroups.com list From: "Gunnora Hallakarva" Subject: Re: Baldrics Ulric the Fox asked: > I am looking for any information I can find on sword baldrics. > I have seen a couple of pictures of baldrics in use, but I am > looking for information on making one (a pattern would be great). Here are some resources you may find useful: Regia Angelorum: Baldrics from the Bayeaux Tapestry http://www.regia.org/bayint2.htm Ellis-Davidson, Hilda R. The Sword in Anglo-Saxon England: Its Archaeology and Literature. Oxford: Clarendon. 1962. Anglecynn Anglo-Saxon Reenactors with Baldrics http://www.geocities.com/Athens/2471/photos/war16.jpg http://www.geocities.com/Athens/2471/photos/ben11.jpg Torslunda Vendel Helmet Plate showing "Dancing Man" with Baldric http://www.realtime.net/~gunnora/graphics/torslnda.gif R. L. S. Bruce-Mitford. "Fresh Observations on the Torslunda Plates." Frühmittelalterliche Studien 2 (1968) pp. 233-236. Gilt-bronze Vendel Baldric-Mount, 7th century AD http://www.historiska.se/collections/treasures/vendel/097-e.html Vendel Chieftain's Sword (shows mounting on scabbard for affixing to baldric) http://www.historiska.se/collections/treasures/vendel/099-e.html King's Ransom Leather Crafts http://www.kingsransom.com/vkng_pic.html ::GUNNORA:: From: Nambeanntan at aol.com Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 00:15:47 EST Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] suspenders To: sca-cooks at ansteorra.org stefan at texas.net writes: > Hmmm. I thought of baldrics, but those were used to hang swords not > hold up pants. So, I'm afraid this is getting further off subject, but > does anyone know when suspenders (ie: the straps that go over the > shoulders to hold up pants, not the heraldic kind) first appear. > Are they period? Main Entry: sus=C2=B7pend=C2=B7er Pronunciation: s&-'spen-d&r Function: noun Date: 1524 1 : one that suspends 2 : a device by which something may be suspended: as a : one of two supporting bands worn across the shoulders to support trousers, skirt, or belt =E2=80=94 usually used in plural and often with pair b : British : a fastener attached to a garment or garter to hold up a stocking or sock; also : a device consisting of garter and fastener - sus=C2=B7pend=C2=B7ered /-d&rd/ adjective Would this do. Annan Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2001 21:43:19 -0800 From: "Laura C. Minnick" To: sca-cooks at ansteorra.org Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] suspenders Stefan li Rous wrote: > > 'Lainie > > -my sweetie's a fireman, and I'll tell you- it's the suspenders! > > Hmmm. I thought of baldrics, but those were used to hang swords not > hold up pants. So, I'm afraid this is getting further off subject, but > does anyone know when suspenders (ie: the straps that go over the > shoulders to hold up pants, not the heraldic kind) first appear. > Are they period? I don't know what they are called, but my friend Grendal (Master Master Nicolai Grendal Gornych) has these... things that he wears over his chainmail. Looks alot like the harness I used to put on my kids when they were little and we went to the mall or whatever. One strap right under the 'bustline' (for lack of a better word) and two that go over the shoulders. Nick saw pictures of them in Byzantine stuff (he's byz) and didn't know why they were there. So he made one and wore it to see what happens. What happened is that with it strapped on firmly, when he raises his arm to throw a blow, only the section of chainmail above the harness moves with his arm- he's not raising the whole side of his mail when he moves, which means a lot less fatigue. The shoulder straps keep the rib strap from sliding down. I've seen it in action- it's pretty cool. Admittedly, it doesn't hold up one's pants, but if it gives an edge in battle, that might be more important. 'Lainie From: "Terry Decker" To: Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] suspenders Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 05:48:58 -0600 Keep in mind, the dictionary is discussing the history of the word, not necessarily the history of the object. German lederhosen, which are medieval dress, have button on leather straps that serve as suspenders. The question is not "are the period," but "what were they called and what was their construction." BTW, try the term "galluses." Bear >Main Entry: sus=B7pend=B7er >Pronunciation: s&-'spen-d&r >Function: noun >Date: 1524 >Would this do. I doubt it; the suspenders-for-pants is an American (and therefore post-period) thing. The British suspenders are, indeed, stocking garters. . . and damned if I can remember the joke about an American using the term and being misunderstood by some British folk. Alban From: Isobel de Kirkbryde Date: November 11, 2007 1:00:37 PM CST To: ansteorra at lists.ansteorra.org Subject: [Ansteorra] Ring belts vs buckles BOTH are period. Yes, I know buckles were made during period. However, ring belts were also worn. Master Michael Fenwick of Fotheringhay and I saw ring belts in the Viking exhibit at the Swedish National Historical Museum in Stockholm this summer. Yes, they were worn with the same "knot" that is worn in the SCA, The major difference was the width of the belt. The ones we saw in the museum were about 1/2" high for the leather with appropriately sized rings. We saw exhibits that were later in period where they used buckles and belts with holes, much like our modern belts. Moreover, we know from archaeological grave-digs, whose accounts Mistress Roane and Master Michael have translated, that Swedes in the Viking era also used buckles remarkably like those we use today. So both are period: ring-belts and buckled belts alike. Lady Isobel de Kirkbryde leanbh a Úna Guild Head of the Guild of St. Camillus de Lellis, Kingdom of Ansteorra V-Scribe Canton of Skorragardr Deputy Northern Regional Scribe Member of Clann Lochlan Member of Clann Haddock Member of House MOO From: Susan McMahill Date: November 11, 2007 7:55:15 PM CST To: "Kingdom of Ansteorra - SCA, Inc." Subject: Re: [Ansteorra] Ring belts vs buckles I would guess that if they didn't have holes in the belt, they were certainly tang-less; if they have holes, then a tang was probably lost. There might also be evidence of wear on the ring of the belt that would determine if a tang had ever been present. Smaller belts than our 1-1/2 to 2 inch SCA 'standard uniform' belts would also hold their knot better. I have a couple of ring belts and I don't readjust them much at all once I am finally dressed. Technology changes for a reason. The tang came because of the inherent difficulties with fasteners (rings, buckles, etc) without them. At some point, however, it would make sense that there might not have been tangs. If these belts were Viking period or earlier, why might they not have tangs. "real" people used the technology that was available to them. In the location that these rings were found, perhaps tang-less rings were the norm. Just playing devil's advocate. Lyneya > That would be my > thought too... A ring belt just will not inherently stay, and will > loosen constantly. There is no reason to use it, when adding a > > simple tang makes it much more effective. And since these were "for > real" for people in the middle ages, I don't think they would do > it. > > JP From: Jean Paul de Sens Date: November 13, 2007 9:20:45 AM CST To: "Kingdom of Ansteorra - SCA, Inc." Subject: Re: [Ansteorra] Ring belts vs buckles Isobel, I'm afraid I agree with Lorraine. A belt on a model is not really verification that the ring of metal *was* a belt buckle. Since when they recovered it, unless it had been in a bog, it was probably just a ring of metal. it could have been used like this one : http://www.frojel.com/Images/Galleries/Gotland/Images/belt12.jpg as an extension. Finding a ring of metal, slapping some leather on it and calling it a belt is not very good proof. JP On Nov 13, 2007 8:44 AM, Isobel de Kirkbryde wrote: > Were they truely "ring" belts... or had they just lost their tang? > > L DeerSlayer From: Isobel de Kirkbryde Date: November 13, 2007 8:44:45 AM CST To: ansteorra at lists.ansteorra.org Subject: Re: [Ansteorra] Ring belts vs buckles <<< Were they truely "ring" belts... or had they just lost their tang? L DeerSlayer >>> They were truly ring belts. They were NOT buckles that had lost their tang. Not at all. We saw one that we could walk right up to, touch and observe quite closely. It was indeed a ring belt with the knot to hold the belt in place. It was on a woman's Viking dress which also had beautiful wool trim and wonderful broaches. As I said before, thought, the belt was very narrow compared to what I usually see in the SCA. Lady Isobel de Kirkbryde leanbh a Úna Guild Head of the Guild of St. Camillus de Lellis, Kingdom of Ansteorra Date: Wed, 5 May 2010 16:24:44 +1200 From: Massaria da Cortona Subject: Re: [Lochac] Fabric Belts? To: lochac at sca.org.au <<< Does anyone know of period sources that have belts of the same sort of heft and carrying capacity as the ol' faithful leather ring belts, but made of fabric of some kind? >>> I can't speak to how much weight fabric belts could hold compared to leather ones, but they were not uncommon. Here's an extant example: http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O126649/girdle/ There are hunting girdles in musseums in Bavaria which are made of richly embroidered fabric and would go with the raiper hanger you posted (ie from much later than the example above). Sadly, there are no photos online for those. Massaria From: James Anlage Date: August 6, 2010 1:33:11 PM CDT To: trimaris-temp at yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [tri-temp] Metal or Jeweled Belt 
<<< I need some direction on where to find a nice belt to wear with a sideless surcoat.. Any suggestions on where I could find one? Been looking on the 
internet, 
however nothing hits my fancy on the sites that I looked at...thanks :)
 >>> Now you're speaking MY language! I've been doing and teaching projects like that 
since I started in jewelry in our kingdom 26 years ago. I've created quite a few 
jeweled belts in that time, mostly for women, and one or two for ArtsSci. 

If you have basic skills (simple soldering and brazing, know which end of a 
pair of pliers to hold, knowing how to cut metal and not your fingers, etc), 
creating a simple but gorgeous jeweled belt is relatively easy.

 If not, the earlier suggestion involving Walmart or some other outlet can be 
pursued. In that case, don't settle for some pre-assembled belt. Take care in 
finding attractive matching pieces that you can chain together yourself. Pay 
close attention to the type of chain you get, being sure that it doesn't clash 
with the pieces of the belt. You can easily salvage chain from other jewelry you 
can find cheaply at thrift stores or flea markets. 

Pay close attention to the spacing between the pieces of the belt; you want 
the belt to have a full and balanced appearance. The worst thing is a few 
mismatched pieces with lots of chain between them. And if you can't find any 
single color to match your outfit, take care in choosing combinations of colors. 
Worst case scenario: use jewels of red, purple, blue and green. It's a cliche, 
but when modern people see those colors together against bright metal, they 
think "MEDIEVAL!". 

And at the risk of pointing out the obvious, be sure that the pieces of 
jeweled metal intended for the belt have places where chains can be attached. 
When assembling the belt, start by measuring how long the belt has to be 
made. This is important: you need not only the length around your waist or hips, 
but how far it will drape, if that is the style you are making. 
Measure the length of each piece and multiply it by how many you have. 
Subtract that from the desired belt length and that will give you the length of 
chain that is needed to fill in between. Multiply that by how many segments of 
chain will be used between; two would be a logical minimum. There will be some 
blurring of the numbers in this equation... you must take into account the size 
of the individual rings of the chain and any connecting rings that will hold the 
chain segments to the pieces of the belt. 

 Once everything is in one place, go to town with the pliers by putting 
everything together. Eliminate any kinks in the chains.
 Finally, choose a method of fastening the belt closed. The quickest and 
easiest way is to put lanyard hooks on the ends. They're cheap, strong and 
sturdy, not too bad looking, and can be found in silver or gold tone. The 
underside is that they are hard to open. Another method would be to fashion 
small hooks at the ends of the chains, though these could work their way loose 
while you're wearing the belt in garb. Been there, saw it happen.
 With effort and attention to details, you will have a beautiful piece that 
will be the envy of all those around you.
 I hope this has been of help. I really must write an article on this someday.
 
Baron HRothgar From: Vicky Eisenstadt Date: August 6, 2010 7:29:13 AM CDT To: trimaris-temp at yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [tri-temp] Metal or Jeweled Belt Raymond's Quiet Press www.quietpress.com On Fri, Aug 6, 2010 at 8:11 AM, rhiannon_branwen_corcoran < rhiannon_branwen_corcoran at yahoo.com> wrote: <<< I need some direction on where to find a nice belt to wear with a sideless surcoat..any suggestions on where I could find one? Been looking on the internet however, nothing hits my fancy on the sites that I looked at...thanks :) >>> From: "Susan L. Trautman" Date: August 6, 2010 7:27:55 AM CDT To: trimaris-temp at yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [tri-temp] Metal or Jeweled Belt You might try walmart or K mart tacky as that may sound they sometimes carry 
nice metal belts that can pass for period.
 Talisman From: Aspasia Date: August 6, 2010 12:56:46 PM CDT To: trimaris-temp at yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [tri-temp] Metal or Jeweled Belt Contact Baron HRothy at www.preciousplunder.com. He did some for Duchess Elspeth (which she loaned to several other crowns), Vicontess Elitha, me and several others. It would be a special order, price would depend on what you want. He can also make it as authentic as you want. 

Maitresse Aspasia Moonwind
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