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Goffered-Veil-art - 3/12/15


"Making a Goffered Veil" by Lady Elizabeth Braythwayte.


NOTE: See also the files: veils-msg, Ldys-Headgear-art, headgear-msg, E-Period-Hats-art, snoods-cauls-msg, Simple-Wimple-art, turbans-msg, linen-msg.





This article was submitted to me by the author for inclusion in this set of files, called Stefan's Florilegium.


These files are available on the Internet at: http://www.florilegium.org


Copyright to the contents of this file remains with the author or translator.


While the author will likely give permission for this work to be reprinted in SCA type publications, please check with the author first or check for any permissions granted at the end of this file.


Thank you,

Mark S. Harris...AKA:..Stefan li Rous

stefan at florilegium.org



This article was first published in the February AS49 issue of the Cockatrice.


Making a Goffered Veil

by Lady Elizabeth Braythwayte

Canton of Cluain in the Crescent Isles


I first came across goffered veils on a trip to England at Christmas 2006. In St Mary’s Church in Warwick there was the tomb (c. 1370-1375) of Catherine de Beauchamp with her effigy and some of the weepers around the edge of the tomb depicted wearing fretwork veils:


C:\Documents and Settings\Administrator\My Documents\My Pictures\Christmas Holiday 2006\Medieval\DSC01712.JPG

DSC01711.JPG  DSC01708.JPG


I was looking for the style of veil that a lady in the late 14th century would have worn in England and after looking at various websites, I decided that I would feel more comfortable trying a goffered veil than wearing a crispinette or templars.


When it came to making the veil I referred heavily to the internet blog of Isis Sturtewagen and when I was working on the veil in 2009 the blog included the following photos and some instructions on making this style of goffered veil:


[P20801251.jpg] http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_dHh0Xq-zlhQ/R6ylSm0LdTI/AAAAAAAAAb4/9ncimrS6-Cc/s1600-h/P20801191.jpg"><a href=http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_dHh0Xq-zlhQ/R6ylSm0LdTI/AAAAAAAAAb4/9ncimrS6-Cc/s400/P20801191.jpg">


To make the veil


Before you start – a mannequin head and 3.5 - 4cm lengths of 15mm diameter dowel will help you shape the veil once complete. The goffered edging should be attached to a semi-circular veil.


Cut 4 strips 65cm long by 5cm wide. If possible, use the selvaged edge for attaching to the veil and hem the other edge and the ends. (The following images are not to scale)


Strip of linen 65cm by 5cm, hemmed on 3


Sew the first 2 strips together through the edge hem at the ends and the middle, then in the middle of each section and so on, until the joins are about 3cm apart.


Layers 1 & 2


Join the next strip at the mid-point of each of the previous joins.

Layer 3 (joined to layer 2)


Looking from the front edge, the layers should now be joined like this:





Join the final strip the same way as the first strip.


Layer 4 (joined to layer 3)


To shape the edging so that the fretwork opens up, slightly gather the edge that is to be attached to the veil.  


Starch the fretwork edge of the veil. (I have found rice starch to be better than cornflower paste as it does not discolor the fabric nor leave a powdery residue. I use the starchy water from boiling rice and brush it on liberally).


Place lengths of dowel in each of the spaces in the veil fretwork to open them up. The dowel pieces are easier to remove if they protrude past the edge of the veil, but if you make them too long they won’t stay in place well.  


When the starch is mostly dry, sew the edging onto the straight side of a semi-circular veil, centering its position.


Finally, drape the veil over the mannequin head to dry fully and remove the dowels when it is ready to wear. You are likely to find that each time you plan to wear the veil you have to apply the dowels and starch again to re-shape it.


Goffered veil being starched in shape.JPG    DSC03471.JPG









Copyright 2015 by Sue Whitby, <mailing address>. <sue.whitby at xtra.co.nz>. Permission is granted for republication in SCA-related publications, provided the author is credited.  Addresses change, but a reasonable attempt should be made to ensure that the author is notified of the publication and if possible receives a copy.


If this article is reprinted in a publication, please place a notice in the publication that you found this article in the Florilegium. I would also appreciate an email to myself, so that I can track which articles are being reprinted. Thanks. -Stefan.


<the end>

Formatting copyright © Mark S. Harris (THLord Stefan li Rous).
All other copyrights are property of the original article and message authors.

Comments to the Editor: stefan at florilegium.org