MaMSP-art - 9/23/98

"Making a Medieval Shade Pavilion" by H.L. Marke von Mainz.

NOTE: See also the files: shade-pavilns-msg, tent-making-msg, p-tent-const-art, tent-fabrics-msg, tent-sources-msg, pavilions-msg, tent-transprt-msg.

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NOTICE -

This article was submitted to me by the author for inclusion in this set 
of files, called Stefan’s Florilegium. 

These files are available on the Internet at:
http://www.florilegium.org

Copyright to the contents of this file remains with the author.

While the author will likely give permission for this work to be 
reprinted in SCA type publications, please check with the author first
or check for any permissions granted at the end of this file.

                               Thank you,
                                    Mark S. Harris
                                    AKA:  Stefan li Rous
                                         stefan at florilegium.org
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How to make a Medieval Pavilion
by H.L. Marke von Mainz
     
     Steps - Planning

     1) Determine size and shape. The width of the fabric should be 
     taken into account when determining the size. Plan for one or two 
     center poles, the slope of the top, and how many other poles with 
     placement. Poles are commonly placed a maximum of 6 feet apart at the 
     perimeter. If you plan to add walls later on, you'll want to think 
     about placing the poles no farther apart than 4 feet. The style of 
     pavilion will also dictate where the poles are.

     2) What color(s) do you want? Not all fabrics come in the colors 
     you might want, and canvas is fairly restricted in colors. Remember to 
     visualize the colors together or you might end up with something that 
     looks like a giant fruit.

     3) What dag shape did you want? square, rectangular, keyhole, 
     triangular, heater. Make a template of the dag style you want. Dags on 
     average are commonly 12 to 16 inches long and 12 inches wide.

     4) Make a drawing of size and shape, two views at least. Then make 
     a setup drawing of pavilion, showing how it would look on the field.

     5) Make a cutting plan. This helps if you have a non-rectangular 
     shape.

     6) Optional items. Painting on dags and/or Top. Backdrop. Floor. 
     Barrier. Break-down or single piece poles. And waterproofing. 
     Backdrop, Barrier, and Floor Covering.
     
     Items needed:

     Yardstick, Tape Measure, and a long straight edge. Chalk and Pencil.
     Pavilion drawings and Templates.
     Dag Template.
     Scissors, sharp.
     Sew Machine. An old steel one works best with Duck and Canvas. Fabric 
     (with 2 yds extra).
     Lots of thread, about 900 yds worth for a 10'x15' Oval. Use a 
     cotton covered polyester thread for strength.
     Poles and steel rod, Grommets and leather, Parachute Line, Stakes, 
     and Line Tighteners.
     Optional items: paint, waterproofing, designs to paint. 
     
     Order of Construction
     
     1) PRE-SHRINKING

     The fabric needs to be pre-shrunk, otherwise it will shrink funny 
     after the first time it gets wet. For the larger pavilions you will 
     need to run a test piece through the washer and dryer, measuring 
     before and after to figure out the percent shrinkage. Allow for the 
     shrinkage if you cut out the pieces before washing. Sometimes you will 
     need to iron the fabric after drying.

     2) CUTTING

     Cut the pieces out of fabric, remember to allow 1 inch seam 
     allowance for each fabric piece. Using cutting layout if you have it. 
     When cutting out dags, fold fabric in quarters so you can get more 
     dags with less cutting. If dags are symmetrical, then you can waste 
     less material. Dags only need 1/2 inch seam  allowance. Here you would 
     also cut out the pennants for poles. IMPORTANT: Be sure to track which 
     piece goes where before you start sewing. Any painting of dags and 
     pennants are done now.

     2) SEWING

     Pin the pavilion pieces together for sewing. Start with the seam in the 
     center of the pavilion and work outward. Make sure all the 
     seams are getting  sewn on the same side out. Use a French or Jean 
     seam. The dags and pennants are sewn with the painted surface inside 
     to be turned right-side out. After the pavilion top is sewn all 
     together, start sewing the dags on. The dags should sewn on so the 
     side it face out is against the top side of the pavilion. Use the  
     same French or Jean seam on connecting dags to pavilion top, then sew 
     again around the seam.

     3) POLES

     Either machine or hand sew leather squares on the pavilion where 
     the grommets are going. The leather pieces need to go on the bottom 
     side of the pavilion. Then  put the grommets in.  Now the Top is done. 
     Make your poles to the height you wanted. Remember to make the center 
     pole(s) to the height you planned for. Drill the holes in the poles 
     for the pennant rods. Cut the rods long enough for the hole depth plus 
     pennant height and 3 inches. Paint the poles if you wanted. If you 
     paint, use an oil based paint for durability and make sure you also 
     paint the ends. Make the line tighteners out of dowel rod or old broom 
     handles.

     4) FINISHING

     Now your pavilion can be setup and used, or you can waterproof it 
     now. A note on waterproofing: Only immersion and brushing methods 
     truly get the waterproofing into the fabric.
     
     Suggested Fabrics:
     Roof - Canvas, 10oz. Duck, Trigger, Sportsweight, and Silk. 
     Backdrop/Barrier -Canvas, Duck, Sportsweight, Broadcloth, Sheeting, 
     and Silk
     Dags - Broadcloth, Sheeting, and Silk (for flapping in the breeze.)

     By H.L. Marke von Mainz, Moon Shadow Pavilions
     Mooneschadowe, Ansteorra

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Copyright 1998 H.L. Marke von Mainz, Moon Shadow Pavilions. Permission is 
granted for republication in SCA-related publications, provided the author is credited and receives a copy.

If this article is reprinted in a publication, I would appreciate a notice in
the publication that you found this article in the Florilegium. I would also
appreciate an email to myself, so that I can track which articles are being
reprinted. Thanks. -Stefan.

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